Is balsarite nitrate dope?
08-22-2002, 01:49 PM
#26
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Is balsarite nitrate dope?
Another good point! If you use retarder(available from Brodak) or something else to slow down the drying(I have not tried the alternatives Al mentions) the nitrate will shrink more.
Balsarite, well, I have not had it come loose in the sun, either. It IS very useful stuff for helping stick down some of the more ornery coverings, like 21st Century Fabric, or Micafilm, which has no adhesive at all.
There is a better alternative to stinky and hard to clean up Balsarite, though. Try water-based Balsaloc from Balsa Products. Works just the same. They sell it to put on Litespan. I have used it with Micafilm with no problems. I sealed the edges near the engine with CA, just in case, as I am not sure how fuelproof it is.
Balsarite, well, I have not had it come loose in the sun, either. It IS very useful stuff for helping stick down some of the more ornery coverings, like 21st Century Fabric, or Micafilm, which has no adhesive at all.
There is a better alternative to stinky and hard to clean up Balsarite, though. Try water-based Balsaloc from Balsa Products. Works just the same. They sell it to put on Litespan. I have used it with Micafilm with no problems. I sealed the edges near the engine with CA, just in case, as I am not sure how fuelproof it is.
08-23-2002, 04:13 AM
#27
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Is balsarite nitrate dope?
You guys got me convienced and reassured on the nitrate dope and silkspan. The FW190A do not have any open frame, so I guess silkspan will do.
Just one question, the selection of painting stuff where I am here is pretty basic, so I am planning of taking the easy way - using plastic model paints. After the nitrate and silkspan, can I use Tamiya acrylic primer and paints, then then fuelproof the model using polyurethane or a two-part epoxy paint. Will this process be ok?
Just one question, the selection of painting stuff where I am here is pretty basic, so I am planning of taking the easy way - using plastic model paints. After the nitrate and silkspan, can I use Tamiya acrylic primer and paints, then then fuelproof the model using polyurethane or a two-part epoxy paint. Will this process be ok?
08-23-2002, 05:23 AM
#28
My Feedback: (1)
Two part paint
Forget the two part paint! Brodak's can be found on the WEB or in the backs of magazines. Call them. You can order direct. One of the nice things about dope is that most of the weight evaporates over time as the reducers will off-gas from the time of spraying, eight to ten weeks to fully cure. What ever quanity of two part paint you apply will remain for the life of the plane. Two part on larger aircraft, properly applied, is generally not a problem. But be carful, two part paint weight can add up quickly.
