sportflyer-RCU

My Feedback: (35)

Plse advise method of applying hinge gap sealing tape (Scotch # 845 ) without creases? Tks

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

first remove control horns from surface.
you can do the next bit which way you want, depends on how you like it... but....
lay the surface upsidedown on top of the wing or fin or tailplane, ( oh yer... this is for top hinging btw... ) move the surface untill its flat with the rear edge of the w/f/t
then run the tape along the joint. fold the surface down into the normal poistion and past till the sanded bit is flat against the w/f/t back edge, then tape the top.
sometimes its easier to do this the other way around.
i dont bother with just tape for center hinging, coz if you think about it.. theres nothing to stop the tape from comming away till its just from the TE of the w/f/t and LE of surface leaving a gap between.

winglift

My Feedback: (10)

Phillybaby,
I am also interested in this subject, but if I read your reply correctly, you are taping a non-hinged surface. How would you apply tape to a already hinged surface?

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

correct, if it works on my Dust Unlimited funfly, it works on most planes, thats just two strips of tape, no hinges!
hinged, ummm now, depends if you've hinged in the centre, or top hinged.. for top hinging i cut into the wing and surface, so the hinges cut in the wood, not lay on top.. anyways...
for top hinging its the same, you could just cover it all in one go like im going to on my Zero.
but.. if i get this right, your saying you have a wing, centre hinged, and you got letter boxes for gaps, and wanna seal them. well.... not had to do that yet, but here gos.. ( btw, cut the hinge into the wood, it stops those gaps )
move the surface down, lay the tape just on the wings TE, with the back of your knife fold the tape down the back edge of the TE, then push it against the triangle edge of the surface, and back up.
try to get 2mm at least on the wings upper surface for good stick, or it'll lift. maybe use another piece over this. turn over and do the same on the bottom. its FAR! easier not to get gaps in the first place.
theres 2 other things i want to try one day but never got to doing....
1: fold the surface down, stick tape right across the open gap making a smooth join, when the surface gos up the tape folds in the centre and gos into the groove. this should give smooth airflow on full deflection, and be much easier than the normal method. i would use film, but it would srink and then no movement.

2: use a thin bit of plastic, and i mean thin. attached to the wings TE, the plastic would have a curve downwards, so as the surface moved, the plastic would follow it, as the surface went up, the plastic would flex. this would give a clean flow on the upper and lower surfaces at the same time unlike any other idea.

if anyones wants to try them, or has, let me know how it works

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I would try the old Windex trick. But since I am not familiar with the characteristics of Scotch # 845, I would try this on a piece of scrap first. Spray the gap with Windex (or soapy water). put the tape in place and squeegee out the excess water/air bubbles. Let it sit for 24 hrs and it's ready.

As I said, find something with covering on it to test it out first. If it works, use it on the hinge gap.

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

yep, having the tape stick half way through is a pain in the &$$
but i'm not sure i trust the soapy water thing, ok i did it on a car bodyshell once... but the soap is meant to remove sticky things... inculding the stuff holding the tape to the plane.
not im saying dont do it....
the only reason i didnt use hinges on the Unlimited was i ran cables for lights right where i would have to cut

the tape i have is Diamond tape. its very clear, water proof, ( got it for a boat hatch ) but it's lasted 3 years on a glider of mine, inculding all the sand i could throw at it. And it seams to be fuel proof once its stuck down and left for a while.

rctrax

phillybabe I use your #1 method all the time and it works fine just fold the surface down and run the tape straight across the gap and when returning the surface to nuetral run the iron down the hinge gap and it will go right down into the gap. I use clear Monokote.

sportflyer-RCU

My Feedback: (35)

The tape I bought is a 2 inch wide tape . Is there a simple way to cut it down to size? At first I used wax paper to temporarily hold the tape in place while sliced it to the correct width. Did not like it because the wax paper did stick to it and some bits were still on the tape after peeling the tape.My final solution was to place the tape adhesive side upwards and tape the two ends to my cutting board. Then I placed two pieces of 1/8 in balsa at the ends and line up a stiff ruler ( Rt Angle Al channel ) on the balsa ends at the correct width so that it does not touch the adhesive , then cut it to size. Is there a simpler way? Has anyone tried velum or glass as the temp holding medium? Tks

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

RCtrax, well, i didnt think of that, my idea was the tape wouldnt stick, so when you went to full deflection you had a kind of skin, but now you say it, DAMN!!!!!!! thats an easy way to do the sealing lol

sportflyer, why cant you use the 2"? lots of over lap onto the wing surface will stop the tape lifting, and you can always run it the full chord of the aileronand maybe over lap to the bottom, then the tape under to the back edge, that stops the film lifting from there to. other than that.... score round the tape before you take it off, after a while you know how hard to push to goto certian depth and give a rough distance of tape. bingo, 2 1" strips

sportflyer-RCU

My Feedback: (35)

I would use the full 2 in width for 1/4 scale plane , but the current plane is a Q500 and the 2 inch tape looks quite out of place in this application. This is my first use of Scotch 845 tape. I normally use clear Monokote ironed right into the gaps with no overlaps onto the LE and TE.

Cactus.

My Feedback: (1)

ok, just lay it into the gap, then run th knife flat against the surface and cut the tape just as it exits the V