ACAMEX

talking about engines..... I know that they are many options here and many opinions, but I purchased a Super Tigre G90 for this model, will this be ok? on a scale of 0 to 10 performance wise, where would this engine scale?

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

Westcoast, I don't recall what size engine you have up front. I was told by someone that put the OS 91 2 stroke, that the plane builds nose heavy. He put dual servos all the way back just forward of the stab. Anyway, it is what it is, and I have the option to put the battery up in the fuel tank compartment, or all the way back in the fuse. That gives me a lot of CG adjustment I would think.
Carlos, I don't have much experience with different engines, but I heard the Supertigre 90 is a fine engine. I don't think the OS 91 2 stroke will give unlimited vertical, but that's not for me anyway. I am not capable of any radical flight at this point. Easy and gentle for me - low rates only.
Al

ACAMEX

Thanks Al, I think that im from the same branch as you, im not capable of any radical flight yet....but it is nice knowing that the power is there if needed

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Carlos-

I'm using a ST .90 with mine. I don't need unlimited vertical, but it will be sufficient for what I need. Plenty of power.

You might want to consider the 2 tank method. My ST .90 dies out when pointed at a downward angle.
Check out page 17, posts 406 and 410 for this topic.

Brian.

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Bigal, mine has an Enya 1.20R

You guys are building light. I'm the kind of guy that covers in fabric and lays on tons of paint, everyone is good to go with their engines and Ultracote/Monokote.

Cyberwolf

My Feedback: (4)

At the time I originally built my plane all I had was a OS 91 FX engine NIB plus a Bisson incowl muff. It flew the plane ok at my alt, But wasn't anything you would wrote home about. After 3 flights I changed it out to the YS 120 SC and did some battery moving to get the CG back in place and have never looked back. My plane with the YS weights in at just a tad over 9 lbs, I normally don't fly on full throttle, but its there if I need it.
This plane is what I call the little plane that thinks its a big one 30-35% size, very forgiving and I have never had it drop a wing, both fall out at the same time it just mushes forward and thats at a very low speed way slower than what it needs for a nice smooth landing. There is one thing about any extra and this one is no different, please don't over throw the elevator it can and will snap in a loop and could cause some confusion and a lost plane if your not carefull. The throws in the manual are fine to start out with for high and low, then do some experimenting if you want to. I myself have never bothered to go any more cause this is not a 3-D bird theres no reason to.
But for Imac, sport and acrobat flying its hard to beat. Have fun with your new planes guys .
One other thing I forgot to mention I also changed out my gear for some better styled gear, the wires belong on a trainer or the round file around here *L*
I guess that by now everyone knows the plane is no longer made, Great Planes dropped the Extra and Sukhoi as soon as they took over Lanier.GRRRRRRRR
If anyones interested I have a url for a place that still had a few kits in stock. Gimme a PM if your interested.

ACAMEX

Brian

Two tanks?? interesting! Im not sure how that works, but I shall take your advice and read up on those threads that you mentioned.....when my wife stops making me tile the bathroom. I was thinking about possibly putting a smoke system in, but if it works out that the two tank option is better for my engine then Iwill scrap that idea.

Brian, could you explian to me what the issue is with the original wire under carriage? is it a case of that they are too weak? Also, I have noticed that people talk about making the UC angle forward to avoid the nose dropping, is this necessary?

Regards

C

colmo-RCU

I've had 2 of these and Im starting the third. Yes, the wire is too weak for landing gear, it bends backwards and the wood covering the wire will come loose eventually, looking horrible. I use the LG that comes with the great planes extra 60, it's almost the same size and works perfectly. I use a piece of aluminum (very thin and light, like the ones use to rail shower doors) C-beam to support the screws, as they are only 2. Never needed to fix the LG.

I think the reason they discontinued this fabulous plane was to avoid competition for their own Extra, but having flown both I say they should have copied this one and sold it as GP or discontinued theirs instead. There's no comparison

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Carlos,

WestCoastFlyer posted the cabon fiber forward raked Extra landing gear earlier in this thread. It is a tad spendy, but a good investment- I think.

The reason for the forward rake to the gear is the reported tendency for this extra to nose over on roll-out or landing. It is a design issue. The stock gear placement simply does not allow enough room forward the wing to position a standard gear where it bolongs to correct the nose-over issues. That is why the forward swept gear is the perfect solution. It fixes the design problem and looks fantastic to boot.

I believe the stock gear would work-providing you keep weight down and manage elevator. However, I think this approach is labor intensive in the long run. You will constantly be re-bending the wire and fixing the fairing.

DaveP has a good wire solution as well.
See page 16: Post #'s 387-399. (You also get a chance to see Av8djc's GB Extra within the context of discussion! [8D])
I think this deserves serious consideration.

DaveP- Any progress on the landing gear you would be willing to share?

Brian.

dobra

ACAMEX
I used carbon copy in steavanage for a forward swept UC. Looks good but I have broken 3 now and gone to a alloy one. The original wire one is no good for grass. I still have the wire ones all mint and painted.
I broke the 3 carbon copy ones because I have been flying in all this wind we have been having. Gusts of 35miles. I am also running the heavy engined option OS 120 pumped.
Oh by the way carbon copy do fibre glass wheel spats and cowl and carbon canopy. The canopy looks nice. They have a web site.

ACAMEX

Thanks guys and understood.  I shall go and get some good LG and make sure the rake forward upon fitting.

ACAMEX

Brian

Perhaps im being a bit dim here (more than likely) but Idon't get what the problem is. Iread the posts that you referred me to but Istill dont understand a few things, perhaps you can show me the light.....

He mentions that when he points the nose down the the engine stalls < is this a common problem or just isolated to him? Reason I ask is because Ihave never had this problem myself or ever heard of it before (unless the mixture is incorrect).

Is this something that happens only engines bigger than 50's for example?

Also, I still dont get how having two tanks would help resolve the issue of the engine cutting out, I get the part about the line from tank to engine being long enough to sustain the fuel flow whist nose is down, but then surely at some point there would be an air gap?

As im writing this I get the terrible feeling im missing something very obvious and making myself look a fool, so Iwill apologise already ......ill go away and sit back in my corner.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

The only bad question is the one not asked. This is what these forums are all about. And if anyone gives you flak about a question, it is because they have small man syndrome (S.M.S.).

Regarding your question about the engine problem, Carlos, I think this problem is unique not to an engine mfg or engine size, but unique to a few that come off the assembly line- any size. I don't know the cause. More than likely, you probably won't have this problem, I'm just lucky enough to purchase the one in a million that does.

I'll try to find the thread that shows this problem and the reason more clearly.

For some reason, my engine draws more fuel than most in a down line, and uses the fuel thats held in the pick up tube faster. This causes the engine to draw air and kill the engine. The idea is that you have 2 tanks. One is the 12-14oz tank, and the 2nd tank a 1-2oz tank. Once you have the 1-2oz tank full, which is between the larger tank and the carberator, the fuel lead cannot draw air to the carberator until the smaller tank is empty, which will never happen until the larger tank is emptied. THis way the engine will not draw air in the down line and continue to run through-out the manuver (because the pick up tube leading to the carb is in the smaller tank).

I hope I was a little clearer than mud.

Brian

This link is found in the beginners thread entitled: "Engine Stalling."

This video link is found on page 1, post# 14. It shows you just what goes on in your fuel tank while you fly. The thread is eye opening and VERY interresting.
I believe this video shows my problem, and why the 2 tank method will fix it.

[link]http://richter-lackierung.de/aktualisierung_2006/5MBVersionflycamefuntana.wmv[/link]

colmo-RCU

One mod I have never tryed is placing the tank in th CG. I will be using the YS 120 SF supercharged as on the previous Extras. The question is, does the supercharger provide enough pressure to draw the fuel from that distance? Or is a "PUMPED" engine required?

Also, the 2 tank option is widely used on helis, where engine performancee is SOOOO important, and is the perfect solution to the feeding problem. I use it, and have seen that after a hard aerobatics flight the small tank (I use 2 oz), that started completely full, ends up havins a very small portion of air, say 1/16 in on top. That is effectively the air that didn't go into the engine. Use it and you'll solve the downward flame-out problem.

ACAMEX

Isee, very interesting and has left me thinking quite a bit.......interesting..........

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I have not heard of YS ever having this problem. Mine never did.

Brian

ACAMEX

Hows the build coming along Brian?

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The three I have built were powered by a OS 1.20 pumper, a YS 1.40 Sport and the one I am flying now has the YS 1.20NC. You could put the fuel tank in the tail for all they care. I always set up the tank just forward of the CG, not too much but a little bit. Fiberglass Specialties sells a very good landing gear for this kit. The gear I have on mine is after market but I can't remember where I got it, just way too much over kill and too heavy but I don't want to change anything on this plane. Well, maybe it is tome for a recover and some fresh paint?? Getting a little long in the tooth and showing it's age.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

For me, progress will be slow. I may only be able to spend time on it on weekends for the most part.

I'm juggling a remodel project and family responsibilities at the moment. With the start of my children's school year, I've become very busy.
I'm sure you'll probably finish yours before I get mine done. I'm not expecting to see mine in the air until next spring.

We should see more progress this weekend. (BTW- This friday is my birthday, yesterday was my son's. He turned 1!)

Brian

ACAMEX

My sincerest happy returns for both your birthdays !! it must be fantastic having your birthday so close to your son's, what a great moment to be able to share.

.......and my respect for being so disciplined on the remodel, I also have a remodel going on but Ikeep mysteriously end up with a bit of balsa wood in one hand and glue in the other, I cant explain it(thats whatI tell my wife anyway)

ACAMEX

on another note, can someone confirm that 3-5/16 converts to 6.82 cm? 

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

3 inches = 7.62cm.
.25 inches = .635

3 5/16" should be just over 8.255cm according to search engine conversion entries.

DaveP

3-5/16in = 3.3125in
3.3125in * 2.54cm/in = 8.41375cm

-Dave

ACAMEX

Brian and Dave  Thanks!  I am so glad i waited for your response!  the online conversion that I used must have been smoking something illegal becuase it was way off!   Cheers guys

WestCoastFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Happy Birthday Brian!

Dave