karolh

My experience with the CG Extra is just as Gray Beard suggested. If your model is fitted with the stock wire l/gear, do yourself a favour and replace it with an aluminium one. Giving the gear a more pronounced forward rake cures the nosing over tendency the model displays particularly when flying from a grass field.

Karol

azrenagade

Thank you Greybeard & Karol for your response. when i rebuilt the landing gear i changed it to a aluminium l/gear & moved it up to the leading edge of the wing.  I flew it for the first time last weekend & it flew great & i had no trouble taking off or landing with it.in all had 6 flights with it. This is the first plane of this type i have  flown.It seems to be a great flying plane. The  planes in used to are a cessna , Kadet senior, &  40 ultra stick.
 Thanks Mike

karolh

Good to know that you got it repaired and flying again. The Extra is an honest flying model that will grow on you, so enjoy flying it. What engine are you using ?

Karol

azrenagade

I'm using a evo 1.00 2stroke in it. seems to have all kinds of power

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

I agree with Grey Beard but would like to add that this is one of the nicest landing planes you could ask for. Although it is not a floater it comes in and touches down very gently and you do not have to work hard at all to achieve that.

Gary L. Sr.

At the suggestion of a good friend, (And a scale master) I am installing TNT
3/16" landing gear and raking the block. Seems a great choice for the CG Extra 300....Gary L. Sr.

karolh

Excellent advice.

Karol

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

OK, I'm not going through a hundred and sixty eight pages to find out but I recall people asking about the OS 1.08. I ran across an almost brand new one today at my LHS. I think I can get it for $70.00, asking price was $80.00 but the shop owner was in a really good mood and I laughed at all his jokes. They really were funny today. He was in a dealing mood too. Engine even has the stock muffler for it, brand new, looks never used. Engine looks and feels good.

Gary L. Sr.

Let me know if you get tired of it! That is a great price! I paid twice that for mine and love it!

karolh

That's the whole idea of his post, if anyone wants it.

Karol

mschulz531

In the upper right corner of the forum page, directly above the right side banner ad, is a link "Search this thread".

karolh

Maybe I interpreted it wrongly.

Karol

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Maybe you just know me better then others. It is an offer but only for those I have know for years and have dealt with in the past. They also have my real email address and if they want me to pick it up they will write me. I have been burnt by slow repayments and no repayments for items in the past so I'm a bit gun shy fronting for people I don't know. Sorry. I posted this find in this thread because I know a lot of guys that will open it the moment they see it show up.

karolh

Tell me about doing hobby favours and getting burnt, I am a converted where that is concerned, and now sometimes the good suffers for the bad, no apologies.

Karol

Poffit

My Feedback: (4)

Hi all you Goldberg fans.

The Goldberg Extra with a DLE 20 is going to be this winters project. I had the Extra in my stash of kits and with the DLE 20 showing up now would be a good time to put one together.
I am using the origanal kit as templates and cutting all new wood. That way I can build one and still have all the parts for patterns. Since I am cutting all new wood it is easy to make a few changes.

I had the plans out this weekend and was dreaming and scheming about some changes. Like Brian, I am trying to shed some weight on this plane. I weighed a sheet of 1/8" lite ply on the scales and came up with 23lbs. per cubic foot. The balsa that I have been getting has been running from 6 to 10lbs. So any lite ply that is replaced with 1/8 balsa is going to help with tonnage.
I have decided to keep the fuse sides lite ply. All the formers from under the wing back will be balsa except the slant former. The fuse top under the rear turtle deck will be balsa, and the fuse bottom from the rear of the landing gear back will be balsa. And the firewall is going to be 1/4" A.C. ply.

Sunday, I got the fuse sides and doublers cut out. Before going any farther I have a boat load of questions. But rather than ask them all in one post I will spread them out a little.
It sounds like the wheels need to be moved ahead. Right now the axles are in line with the front edge of the wing. Is this far enough for grass or is it too far so it will cause bouncing problems when landing.

I am using the Dubro fiberglass landing gear mainly because I already had them on hand. Once again, with the trusty scales I weighed the pair of aluminum ones that come with the Goldberg Sukhio then weighed the Dubro ones. The Dubro gear was quite a bit lighter, but are they going to be strong enough. They are tall enough that the plane will have plenty of clearence, even with a 17" prop.

Thats the 2 biggest questions that is holding up progress right now.

Pat

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Can't speak to the dubro gear, but I think you'll be okay. If you can angle them forward you'd be better off. My gear from graph-tech has a 1 inch forward rake to it.

I will be using 1/8th balsa for the fuse sides with 1/4' X 1/8" truss bracing. You're right, this pulls a ton of weight off the fuse!

Brian

karolh

Can't address the gear strength issue bit, but my replacement alum. gear has no offset so I just fitted a 3/8" thick wedge block between the fuse and the gear which rotated the mains 1" ahead of the wing's l/edge and that solved the nosing over tendency on grass.

Karol

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

A photo of mine. The axles are just behind the LE of the wing but it doesn't nose over on a hard packed surface. I don't know where I got the gear but it's as thick and heavy as a leaf spring from a Ford. The wire LG works fine as far as strength goes and the Dubro gear should be even stronger. It was the angle they set at that doesn't work and they were set too far back. The after market gear also looks better. I know I could loose a bunch of weight just changing out the LG but I'm not going to mess with perfection. I have been tempted to change it but then I would have to relocate to get the CG back to the magic spot. I no longer fly from grass. {can't even recall what the stuff looks like} But if I did I would do the change as Karolh did.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

My wheels are on the leading edge and not a problem at all flying off grass. I'm a novice and I never nosed over yet!

What weight are you shooting for with the DLE 20 up front?

Poffit

My Feedback: (4)

So it sounds like anywhere from even with the leading edge up to an inch in front will work. I have a nice pair of fiberglass wheel pants for this plane. If the grass gets a little long that will make some more drag. Maybe I better angle the landing gear a little more and shoot for a good 1/4" in front of the wing.

If those cracks in the ground get any bigger Gene it won't matter how far ahead your wheels are. The crack will swallow a whole plane.

I don't know what weight I am shooting for Al since this is my first Goldberg Extra. I am a novice also, been building for just 3 years. Have to say, I almost like building more than flying. I have learned that it is a lot easier to build heavy than it is lighter. The first kit that I got creative with, my thinking was to build for durability. A little extra ply here, a little extra bracing there, so on and so on, and when it was all built it might have been durable but it flew like crap because it was so heavy. So I am slowly coming around to the lite way of thinking.

Brian, are you cutting out lighting holes in the fuse sides, or have you got that all planned out yet. With the balsa your should definately shed some weight especially if you cut a few holes. What about the doublers, will you use more balsa or go to a ply?

None of you guys go away because in the weeks ahead I am going to have more questions

Thanks
Pat

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

No worry about anyone going away. Most of us have been following this thread for years. The only weak place on this kit is the fuse doubler. The plane was designed for a .60 engine but for a lot of years everyone has used bigger and bigger engines until we have over stressed the airframe. From years of stress the fuse will break off right in front of the wing saddle. That seems to be the only area you don't want to scrimp on, it needs a strong doubler.
The dry lake bed does have some holes that will swallow a van. Plus it isn't always dry. After a rain or flood we wait for it to dry out to a just right point then pick our runway spot then drive our vans back and forth to pack it down. Nothing will stop the cracks but we do end up with a pretty smooth runway. Then the stupids with there quads and trucks seem to feel that 7 sq. mi. of flat isn't enough for them and they like to come over and see how deep they can make tracks in out runway. It really isn't too bad though, we just up and move if there are any deep rutts. It's hard to miss the runway out there and there isn't as much dirt as people think. A great bunch of guys makes it even better.

bigal126

My Feedback: (18)

Because this isn't a 3D bird, building it super light isn't that important. I would aim for a weight that would give you good verticle performance with the 20cc, but it doesn't have to be ballistic. You won't be hovering this plane if built stock. Mine weighs in at 9.2 with a YS 110 and I think it flies awesome.

karolh

I have heard of models at 11+ lbs. that still fly great and without any bad habits.

Karol

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Mine is at 11 pounds fully assembeled. Saying it makes me wonder how a 68 inch plane at that weight can fly so well?There is no reason to over worry about the weight but if I was to build one today I would lighten it up, shoot for maybe 9 pounds. I always felt that the weight was one of the reasons this plane flew so well in all weather conditions. I do like some wind when I'm flying it though. On calm days it tends to land a bit faster then normal.

karolh

Initially mine weighed 8.5 lbs with an ST.75 glow engine, and when I decided to go to a gas engine everyone said no don't as it would turn the model into a flying brick. Thank goodness I tend to be hard headed and like to experiment, as fitting a mag ignition G23 gas engine and increasing the AUW to 11 lbs. worked like a charm and did not alter the model's excellent flight habits one bit. A few years back I had the engine lightened and converted from mag to CD ignition by Ralph which reduced t's weight by approx 14 ounces. The increased power/torque from the gas engine plus the additional weight just seemed to make the model that much more stable and really made the Extra come alive. From the experience gained over the years flying this model, I think that 9.5-10.0 lbs is an ideal flying weight.

Karol