SSE Wing Problem
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SSE Wing Problem
This is my first kit and I was doing just fine on the wing until I added the basla covering on the leading edge of the wing. As I applied it parts of the stock cracked and now it is not perfectly smooth. I am assuming this is unacceptable. Any ideas on how I remove it (if possible) and what is the best method to put it on without cracking the balsa.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
OK, you are now learning about fustration and tolerance... they are just a small part of the hobby - but they come with the package so you have to get used to them.
The Cracking is likely because the wood was too hard or dry. This problem can be eased by selecting softer balsa (yes there are different grades of wood) and you can also soften it with water or hydrogen peroxide which will make it more pliable but robs the wood of some strength. Time and experiance will be your guide here.
As to a solution to your current problem - I'd recommend that you sand it lightly, apply some Balsarite and cover it! Any minor cracks that you have will not affect the flight characteristics of the AC and once airborne you are not going to see them... so what's the problem??
Actually I understand your concerns, as you are building your first kit you want everything to be "Perfect", now reality has to set in... perfection is not required and very hard to obtain. If you do get it perfect, you will very upset when it crashes.
Your call!
Happy Landings
The Cracking is likely because the wood was too hard or dry. This problem can be eased by selecting softer balsa (yes there are different grades of wood) and you can also soften it with water or hydrogen peroxide which will make it more pliable but robs the wood of some strength. Time and experiance will be your guide here.
As to a solution to your current problem - I'd recommend that you sand it lightly, apply some Balsarite and cover it! Any minor cracks that you have will not affect the flight characteristics of the AC and once airborne you are not going to see them... so what's the problem??
Actually I understand your concerns, as you are building your first kit you want everything to be "Perfect", now reality has to set in... perfection is not required and very hard to obtain. If you do get it perfect, you will very upset when it crashes.
Your call!
Happy Landings
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
I was concerned about this happening to me also, but it didn't.
Several people have mentioned that the balsa might crack if you didn't wet it slightly before applying it.
This is my first R/C kit too. So, I very gingerly tested the balsa on the wings. All of it bent fine without any
wetting, etc. Guess I was lucky and got some very good balsa.
Sig will send you new balsa (they replaced a bunch of mine that was broken in shipment).
If you ask for Marcia in customer service you could mention to her that you would like someone to make sure that the replacement balsa will bend without breaking.
Or I guess you could get replacement sheeting at your local hobby store. That way you could pick some that you know will bend good.
As for removing the sheeting...
I just bought some debonding liquid from Tower Hobbies but haven't tried it yet.
Its supposed to unbond CA glue.
Unfortunately, that won't help me with my problem.
I epoxied one of the fuselage doublers on upside down!
Can't believe I did that. I thought I was being very careful. I think that, since this is my first kit, I am way too anxious about screwing the construction up, which made me to screw it up. I check the placement of the doubler on the fuselage at least 10 times to make sure it lined up good. Problem is, you can line it up upside down!
So, SIG is sending me a new fuselage and doubler.
Good luck with the rest of the kit. There are so many posts on this site, and others, about building and setting up this plane that I am getting pretty confused.
But, I am also finding some real good suggestions. Like fuel proofing the motor and fuel tank area, changing the top piece of balsa that runs from the cockpit to the tail to a plyrood runner (keeps the wood from bending from the covering, using larger wheels if you take off from a grassy field like ours, etc...
Tons of great ideas. Sure glad I picked this plane!
I'll probably turn the thing into a lawn dart anyway. But I want it to at least be a beautiful lawn dart!
And I'll be able to use the $23,500.86 I spent on sandpaper and tools to build my next plane....
Several people have mentioned that the balsa might crack if you didn't wet it slightly before applying it.
This is my first R/C kit too. So, I very gingerly tested the balsa on the wings. All of it bent fine without any
wetting, etc. Guess I was lucky and got some very good balsa.
Sig will send you new balsa (they replaced a bunch of mine that was broken in shipment).
If you ask for Marcia in customer service you could mention to her that you would like someone to make sure that the replacement balsa will bend without breaking.
Or I guess you could get replacement sheeting at your local hobby store. That way you could pick some that you know will bend good.
As for removing the sheeting...
I just bought some debonding liquid from Tower Hobbies but haven't tried it yet.
Its supposed to unbond CA glue.
Unfortunately, that won't help me with my problem.
I epoxied one of the fuselage doublers on upside down!
Can't believe I did that. I thought I was being very careful. I think that, since this is my first kit, I am way too anxious about screwing the construction up, which made me to screw it up. I check the placement of the doubler on the fuselage at least 10 times to make sure it lined up good. Problem is, you can line it up upside down!
So, SIG is sending me a new fuselage and doubler.
Good luck with the rest of the kit. There are so many posts on this site, and others, about building and setting up this plane that I am getting pretty confused.
But, I am also finding some real good suggestions. Like fuel proofing the motor and fuel tank area, changing the top piece of balsa that runs from the cockpit to the tail to a plyrood runner (keeps the wood from bending from the covering, using larger wheels if you take off from a grassy field like ours, etc...
Tons of great ideas. Sure glad I picked this plane!
I'll probably turn the thing into a lawn dart anyway. But I want it to at least be a beautiful lawn dart!
And I'll be able to use the $23,500.86 I spent on sandpaper and tools to build my next plane....
#6
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
My worry is that the top front of the wing has a few spots where there are edges instead of a smooth arc. Will this effect flight characteristics?
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
Don't worry it will fly just fine. I think I could glue a strip of balsa on top of my SE wing and it would fly OK.
The sheeting on the SE is pretty thin so a little filler and sanding might help a little but obviosly you don't have much to work with.
When sheeting I like to get it close to form before gluing. Pin an edge and spray water while gently curving into shape. Hold in place and let dry. Use Titebond, Weldwood etc. to glue in place. This gives you time to work and respray a little if necessary.
When I need to make a curved sheeted area more to my likeing I'll spray a light mist of water and use Elmers filler and bend a credit card, at a low angle, pulling away most of the filler. If it drags too much spray a little water on the filler. If you do this a few times , you can get a great shape without adding a lot of weight or sanding. For me it's easy but it may be all those hours of sheetrock taping.
The sheeting on the SE is pretty thin so a little filler and sanding might help a little but obviosly you don't have much to work with.
When sheeting I like to get it close to form before gluing. Pin an edge and spray water while gently curving into shape. Hold in place and let dry. Use Titebond, Weldwood etc. to glue in place. This gives you time to work and respray a little if necessary.
When I need to make a curved sheeted area more to my likeing I'll spray a light mist of water and use Elmers filler and bend a credit card, at a low angle, pulling away most of the filler. If it drags too much spray a little water on the filler. If you do this a few times , you can get a great shape without adding a lot of weight or sanding. For me it's easy but it may be all those hours of sheetrock taping.
#8
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
Question: Is this the first LE sheeting? That is, is the bottom still open? If so, you can reinforce the bottom side of the sheeting with a thin sheet. That will hold everything in position so you can sand it smooth without worrying about sanding through
#9
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
The second sheet was already put on. Thanks for the suggestion though.
After sanding and cleaning, I realized that it is not as bad as I thought. When I put the second sheet on I sprayed it with a little water and used two straight edges to support it
and it went on perfectly. This is definitely a learning experience, but I think it is going well so far...... knock on wood.
Thanks everybody in RCU. Lots of great help and advice.
After sanding and cleaning, I realized that it is not as bad as I thought. When I put the second sheet on I sprayed it with a little water and used two straight edges to support it
and it went on perfectly. This is definitely a learning experience, but I think it is going well so far...... knock on wood.
Thanks everybody in RCU. Lots of great help and advice.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
I have read all the replys and they are all very good input but there is one that everyone misses and i have been doing this for years make a 50\50 mix of apoxy and methalhydrate (gas line antyfreeze) mix it well and aply to area you want to treat you get great penatration into the balsa and it hardens up to make a very strong serface i do this with all my wings when they are still in the jig and i also do it to the fusalage and it realy doesnt add to much wait just strenght.The 50\50 mix covers alot of area and it very easy to aply.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
You can try carefully removing the damaged sheet with an exacto blade knife. This is painstaking work but will probably give you the best result. You can also try filling and sanding but this will never be 100% Less than 100% flies fine though
When applyin a rather stiff sheet to a curved surface some people suggest wetting one side (the convex side), I'm not too fond of this though as this expands the wood and later when its glued it will dry and re-contract, which can lead to a crack or a less than perfect fit.
If you slowly, progressively work the dry wood around the curve it shouldn't crack - the trick is to take your time. (I believe cellulose thinners works too but have never tried.
good luck
I.F.
When applyin a rather stiff sheet to a curved surface some people suggest wetting one side (the convex side), I'm not too fond of this though as this expands the wood and later when its glued it will dry and re-contract, which can lead to a crack or a less than perfect fit.
If you slowly, progressively work the dry wood around the curve it shouldn't crack - the trick is to take your time. (I believe cellulose thinners works too but have never tried.
good luck
I.F.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
the sheet that i was using today didnt like me too much! i was sheeting my fuse and the dry fit went well but then went to glue it on and it snapped in half, and no i dont mean craked, i got a 2 for 1 deal!.... and it just happened to by my last sheet that was big enuff.
it happens to all of us sometime.
it happens to all of us sometime.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
I have a couple of large dia cardboard tubes in my work shop I wet the sheeting down with alcohol and form in around the card board tube and let it dry now you have a pre bent piece of balsa that if anything you flattening it out to fit the curve of the surface not bending it.
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RE: SSE Wing Problem
Never had a problem with sheeting cracking while building the se.
I have built several kits for other people and no such problems.
Some of these tips the guys are giving you sounds like they may
help. First time ive heard of most of these tips. But i have
never need to use such tips in my 33 yrs of building.
What i have had is when i go to pick mine up off
the field i have a tendency to grab the leading edge
of the wing with my fingers an CRACKKKKK.
I just leave it that way any fly it like it never happen. LOL
I have built several kits for other people and no such problems.
Some of these tips the guys are giving you sounds like they may
help. First time ive heard of most of these tips. But i have
never need to use such tips in my 33 yrs of building.
What i have had is when i go to pick mine up off
the field i have a tendency to grab the leading edge
of the wing with my fingers an CRACKKKKK.
I just leave it that way any fly it like it never happen. LOL