Rubberduck

Well, first I must say how much fun kit building is! I've built a few plastic model cars before and enjoyed it...but this takes the cake!

With that said, I have a couple of n00b-ish questions regarding the 4* 60 kit. Since it's my first kit, I want to make sure I do everything the right way.

First question -- the balsa trailing edge sheets are bigger than what is needed. I assume that I trim these to size after I finish building the wing, but wanted to be sure. See the attached picture....there's about 1/4" extra sheeting that I think needs to be trimmed off so that everything is flush. Is my assumption correct?

Second question -- some parts of the plans call for using SIG-BOND (water-based glue) to glue stuff together. I looked at each LHS in town and neither one carries the stuff. What else can I use? Would CA be OK? Specifically, the plans call for the use of SIG-BOND when glueing the sheets of balsa to the wing ribs and spars.

Thanks for the help!

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

I can't answer the first question, although It appears that it needs to be trimmed. Unless some more stock goes in there, then yes, it all needs to be flush. When I built my contender kit, I used medium CA to glue the sheeting down. Worked wonderful! But that's just me....

dalolyn

My Feedback: (7)

Normally the extra sheeting will be cut off. It will or should say in the instructions.
There are many defferant glue types and techniques, you might want to do a search and find the best that is for you. I use thick ca or sometimes Titebond or Elmers wood glue for sheeting. I have also used a wood cement like Sig-ment. Have tried Gorrilla glue, it worked alright but I think there are better ways. I never use epoxy for sheeting because of weight and mess. My last few kits I used the wood glue. Its not as fast but works good, you have to tape and pin to make sure the sheeting is tight to the ribs.

samsdad

Rubberduck, Check, double check, and triple check the plans and the instruction book BEFORE you trim that sheeting! On my 4*40, the trailing edge looks similar to that, but my trailing edge spar covered it all. Do you have the sheeting positioned correctly? Just a few suggestions. As far as the ca glue on the sheeting goes, go for it. I did on mine and it turned out fine Good luck and keep us updated.

msu68stang

My Feedback: (7)

I agree to check the plans as to the sheeting. I do not remember having to trim mine on my 4* 40. Make sure you are using the sheet that is the correct size.

Test005

I've just started my 4*60 tonight, my first build as well and have almost completed the first wing.
The trailing edge sheeting is a bit too wide, that's so you can trim it perfectly straight if needed to fit snug with the spars.
When you have done the trailing edge bottom sheeting, the trailing edge and the trailing edge top sheeting you will cut them and sand it all even.

Go ahead and keep it like this until you have the trailing edge & top sheeting in place, then you'll see what to do.


Another question:... The instruction book tells you to build a right wing, and in the photo it's clearly saying "RIGHT WING PANEL" But isn't the guy building a left wing??
This confused me a lot so I built my left wing first, just to get it according to the pictures in the manual.
Can anyone experienced check their 4*60 instruction book and tell me if I'm right??

Squire

It would appear that when you attach the upper sheeting that the taper of the rib will cause the upper sheeting to match the lower sheeting forming the actual trailing edge of the wing.

As for glue I wouldn't hesitate to use medium CA being careful to clamp the two pieces together or better yet use masking tape. The second choice would be either Wilhold or TiteBond glues. I would NOT use a water base glue as this will tend to expand the upper/lower sheeting and be a devil to hold together (experience taught me this).

Good luck.
Phil

Chocks

Yes, just trim it off flush with the ribs. As for glue, I use Gorilla glue to glue my sheeting on. Never have had a problem yet. Just don't follow the instructions where it says get each surface wet. just use it dry

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Test,
I'm not experienced with this model, but typically models are built upside down. So, while it may appear he's holding a left wing, he may in fact be holding a right wing upside down, or vice versa, whatever....I don't know for sure because I haven't looked at the book, but that was a point of confusion for me several times while building my contender.

Rubberduck

Test - I noticed that too. After many hours of studying the plans and instruction book from every angle imaginable, I came to the conclusion that the right wing on the plan is reversed. Look at the attached picture...the wing that's closest to the camera is the right wing -- but the words and every other part of the plan face the other direction. Most of my building is done on the other side of the table (furthest from the camera), but to make things easy on me, I moved to the close side of the table to build the right wing.

Test005

Yea, thanks Rubberduck.
I built the left wing first, it has the plan + text is orientated away from me.

Now I started the right wing and I build it away from me (spars pointing forward) but the text is upside down.
This was a bit confusing and SIG should mention the orientation on the plan for us beginner.

Also the instruction book has another plan, he's building the right wing, but the text is orientated correctly??

Confusing!

...Hopefully I got it all right now and don't have the dihedral angle folding the wing negatively

2slow2matter: I think the wing is built topside up, because the airfoil (semisymetric) looks allright when the wing lay on the table.

Test005

Allright, wing #2 is framed and sheeted.
Now I have some sanding to do before joining the two halfes together.

Eventhough this being my first build I'm not too careful.
I try not to get caught in details and move on when a part is functional.
The finnish won't be top notch, but I build 4* for flying, not for static display...

Bulding is fun and I think this kit, so far is quite easy to assemble.
Biggest problem so far is the CA glue fumes. My throat is really soar and I'm coughing all the time.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Test, some people are highly allergic to that stuff, and it can even induce an asthma reaction. You want to be careful. They do make the odorless kind, more expensive, but well worth it. You'd probably spend somewhere in the neighborhood of 10 to 15 extra bucks per kit, depending upon how much of it you use in a kit. Well worth it if you're allergic to the stuff, I think! You'll spend more than that on asthma medicine and trips to the doctor!

hookedonrc

I would add to what 2slow2matter said by also recommending that you have a fan to keep the air circulating. The fumes really hang in the air without some ventilation. I am fairly alergic to CA and when using it a lot, I have to have the area well ventilated or my eyes will swell shut. I haven't tried the odorless yet, but since I keep the area well ventilated, I have been able to work around its affects.

Test005

Well, I think the CA got to go.
I blew my nose and actually got a small spot of blood on the tissue... My throuth is very irritated and I cough.
I'm not allergic to anything and don't know if this is an allergic reaction or just lack of ventilation.

I build in a small room with only a small window open...
I thought to use my Great Planes wood glue, but it'll take too much time to cure and it wont flow in to small places like thin CA does.


Is this odorless CA just as strong as normal CA? Does it come in diffrent viscoses?

buzzard bait

I use Weldbond from the hardware store for practically everything, except I sometimes use epoxy for engine mounts. It is water based and almost odorless. I have not had the trouble gluing sheeting that some people speak of--I don't know why not. I even use it for gluing two broad pieces of sheeting together--a no-no I'm told--but it works for me if I get it well-clamped right away.

Another water-based glue that I think is really amazing is Superphatic from Hobby Lobby. It looks like watery skim milk but it is very strong and sets up pretty quickly. It will soak into wood. I've used it for fiberglassing center sections instead of messing with resin.

Some people get really bad reactions to CA and I don't want to become one of them. I also find it frustrating to work with--it's easy to mess something up, and I keep getting the stuff where I don't want it. Weldbond and Superphatic aren't instant, but I can usually work on a different part of the plane while it dries.

Jim

CTDave

My Feedback: (1)

Yes the ca is a bear to work with if you having reactions from it. I do even with the fan,to make the fan work it usually is enough to blow everything off the bench. The orderless works very well but it is slower bonding unless you hit it with the kicker.I have been going back to the titebond 2 unless I need something bonded fast. It is more money but cheaper than the doctor bill.

Test005

OK, back to the 4*60 questions this thread was intended for. (Sorry to steal your thread Rubberduck)

I have a question regarding the aileron servo hook-up.
You're supposed to use extensions to get the servo wires all the way through the wing from the servo to the wing center where it hooks up with an Y-harness.

I have a Y-harness but no extensions and the Y-harness is long enough to hook up with the servo cables, but they'll meet inside the paper tube in the wing.

Can I skip the extensions and hook the Y-harness up to the servo cables by cutting an access hole in the paper tube and then cover the wing with the servos inside and the cables hooked up?
This mean I can't get the servos out later... But I figure that if I need to replace an aileron servo I probably need to rebuild the plane as well as the failed aileron will cause a crash.

TyBryner

No reason that wouldn't work... but if it was me I'd rather spend a couple bucks on extensions than have to cut into my covering to disconnect a problematic servo later....

Test005

Thanks, I'll just go ahead and install the servos with the Y-harnes inside the wing prior to covering then.
...Just need to test it so everything works as planned before covering


Rubberduck, how's it coming together?
I have done this so far (Doing a bit of everything parrallel since I use wood glue and need to let it dry)

Wing, ready except for final sanding
Fuse, All framed up, gonna install my tank and landing gear plate
Tail, all framed up but not sheeted.

Wow, It feels like I just started this kit a few days ago an haven't put too many hours in it.
Amazingly I have only a few pieces of sheeting balsa left in the box ?!? ...It's much faster to frame up a kit than I thought.
I do have to put wing, fuse and tail together and align everything, sand it and cover, but this is fun!


I think I have pretty much everything for this plane prepared and ready to install once the airframe is ready;
OS.70-fsII, reciver + 5 servos, Y-harness, heavy duty switch, Voltwatch, 1500mah Sanyo, 12oz GP tank, plugs and props...Yep, that's it

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

Test,
Make sure you tie the connectors together, so they don't come apart later on. I'll whip up a graphic and show you how to do this. I've been using bread ties. I learned this little trick while building my first kit. Later on, if you have to replace a servo, then the easiest way would be to cut your wire to your bad servo, and pull it out with the Y. Then, you could drop a weighted string back down the hole to rethread a new cable. At this point you would have to get an extension.

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

OK, here is my feeble attempt at a graphic. Sorry minn, I had to give it a try! Sorry about the quality. Paint will only save as BMP, and RCU won't accept BMP. When I converted it to jpg something got lost in the resolution.
enjoy.

Test005

Whats's a bread tie?
I thought to hot glue the connection, the hot glue can then be cut off the connectors if I need to change the servo.
Anyway it seem to be a good idea to wire up the servos at this point and not mess with additional extensions.

Siefring

I think he means a twist tie (used to close plastic bags). I have used dental floss for the same purpose. In fact a roll of dental floss will last for several seasons .

Heat shrink tubing works also but is harder to replace at the field.

Carl

2slow2matter

My Feedback: (1)

a bread tie is the thing on the top of the bread loaf that keeps it shut.