fred123

How about giving me advice on the technique used to cut the hinge slots for the Sig plastic hinges...Please do not say buy a hinge slot cutter..Hobby shop didn't have one and at any rate they are too expensive..

A reward once given becomes a right.[8D]

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

Your trusty Xacto #11 should do the trick. Find the center and plunge the blade it perpendiular to the surface and make a slot. There are other manual hinging tools available from DuBro that might also be helpful. However, the GP hinge slotter is the best tool for this job. You're right that for one plane it is too expensive, but by the fourth or fifth it is a real bargain...

fred123

Do I remove material or just open up the crack?

tschuy

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Fred,

Like you sometimes those fancy tools are just too expensive for one to swallow. But with a little ingenuity and a small bit of work you can make something that will give you a perfect center every time. I made up this tool using some scrap balsa and it works great for me and will give you repeated results and a straight line. Search around your scrap box for a block of balsa that is half the thickness of your hinge surface. Glue that block of balsa onto a piece of balsa sheet and then harden the block of balsa that serves as you knife blade guide. To use the tool just place it against the surface and let the xacto blade rest against it and let it guide your cut. Flip the tool on the other side and make the second cut. Remove the cuttings and then mount your hinge. I have several of them sitting around my shop for the various planes I built. The one I show in the photo's is obviously not for this airplane since it's not centered. Photo's probably show a better description:


Hope this helps...

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

You can use the larger number 2 blade and the slot size will be about right. Also, drill a small hole in the center to help the CA wick into the hinge. Works great.

Hinge slotter is well worth the money though. I argued it till I got one, then I bought a second just in case the first one breaks. They rock!

GalenB

My Feedback: (18)

For a CA hinge a simple "crack" will do, but the hinge will be a tight fit... The suggestion to drill a 1/16" hole down the center of the "crack" is also a good one...

leftnut

My Feedback: (1)

I have one those center line finfer thing,
I just draw the center line hinge line with a straight edge.
using a sharp #11 blade, cut slowly so the blade stays at center as much as center a
possiable. Sometimes the blade will flex can get off center.
Sometimes you might have to rock the blade back and forth
or slide it back and forth.
Sometimes this will create this slices of wood and must be clean out.
I do it by text fitting a hinge in all the slots and pulling it in and out
to clean out the wood.

I make the slots for the control surfaces before beveling. you'll have
to be more careful with the centering.
If you having covered it yet now is a good time to drill tooth picks into them.
You don't have to.
I find it much easier to install the hinges to the control surfaces before covering.
I drill holes at the center of the hinge slots. This will allow glue to seep in if I need
to add glue later.
However, I use Medium CA . This allows me more time to wick the glue into the hinges
and centering posistion of the hinges. I check and pull on the hinges as hard as I can.

When gluing the control surfaces to the wing or stabs(after they're covered), I use epoxy.
This allows me time to get it right . Posistioning the cntrl surfaces making sure
the tips are even and ect . It also allows me more time to makesure all the hinges
are all the way in the TE. No hinges get bunched in the gap line.
Hinge bunched in the gap line would probably cuase flutter, I imagine.
It also allow me to minimize the gap line as much as posisable to minimize posiablities
of flutters.
I don't wipe the eccess epoxy off right away.
Wait until it cured a little bit. It can scrap of with a blade when it's a little bit
spongy. It's claner....trust me.lol

I usually seal the gap line with a strip of flim.
Depending how beveled the control surfaces.
On most of my air planes, it's for maxium throw. Somewhere in the 60-75 degree
I usually flex the the cntrl surface to max throw and iron the film a litte bit
at a time . I usually seal it from the bottom making nice and neat as much as possiable

Kaos Rulz

ROGER THAT!

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

I have to agree on this too. I used to complain that they were a lot of money that you could do without, but the first time you use on you'll change your mind. The only thing that I worry about it how quickly you are done using this tool. with something this great I wish I could use it more. The slot cutter is one of the better tools on my bench, and is definately worth the money. Get one and you'll never be sorry.

fred123

Thanks guys for all the great advice and the quick response.. This is a great site and a major help to us beginners..FRED 123

A reward, once given, becomes a right. [8D]

Panther45

My Feedback: (4)

For sure

I agree on the tricks for hinges and add that there whould be a check sheet you run before the first flight. This will be sure that the hinges are glued in ( easy to forget) and that the servos all have a center screw ands lots of other things. The list is the same for all planes and is easy for you to develop and add to over the years.

sir-crash-alot

My Feedback: (4)

Um tower had one for 15, but they also have a jig for 5 but the hinge slotter is so much easier and quicker and i will never go back to the old fashion way again!!!

Test005

Hi
I got Robart point hinges for the Durastick I just assembled.
I liked them alot and have gotten more for my 4*60 kit I'm building. Recommended!