hookedonrc

Ken,
Should have mentioned that I would follow up by adding trim tape along the leading edge of the windscreen. Not only to seal it down, but to make a nice sharp line around the windscreen to represent a framed screen. The tabs would be used only to add a surface to glue to on each of the left and right sides. I would try to put one in the middle as well, but don't want to cut through the internal bracing.

fred123

Hook: You can't use CA on plexaglas. It really messes it up..Fred123[&:]

hookedonrc

As far as the parts showing, I would agree, it will cloud it pretty badly. I am talking about CA'ing the tabs that would extend down into the side of the fuselage. Or, I could even use epoxy. The intent wold be to use the tabs to slide into the slot and then let the CA run down inside and hold the tabs in place. I would not try to use it on the bottom of the windscreen that touches the fuselage exterior. Maybe my explanation is not quite clear, and I am not really good with drawings. Maybe I will show it through pictures when I get to the step. I really do think it might work.

fred123

Hooked: I have completed the windscreen, and am pretty satisfied with the results. As I said, I used formula 560 canopy glue and cut a narrow (1/16in) strip in the covering to expose the balsa. (This seems to be the secret for the glue to hold.) and used small screws to hold the screen in place while the glue drys overnight. I will cover the joint with Astrokote. The great thing about the glue, is that it drys completly clear. I have attached an extreme close-up to show the joint. Fred123[&:]

hookedonrc

Thanks fred, I appreciate the picture. I will rethink this when I make it to the point I have completed the covering and am ready to install the windscreen. Another idea I had was to make a form out of something, or even use the side of a glass jar that equals closely the shape of the fuse. Then place it in an oven at about 170 degrees and see if I can form a curve in the windscreen. Maybe it is not even necessary, but I am just kicking around some ideas. I do have the same canopy glue that you mention and will use it to make the final attachments.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

I use CA glue on the outer tips of the windscreen and shoot zip kicker. It sets it up right away. It doesn't ruin the clear plastic or fog it up. Then I usually use formula 560, or ca and shoot it with kicker, on the rest of the windscreen. After it is set up, I clean the surface and I put a piece of trim to cover where the windscreen meets the fuse. It is a potential mess, but when done right, it works well, and looks good.

I wish I had a digital camera so you can see it on my Sig Smith Miniplane and my H9 AT-6.

b717doc

Just my 2 cents......When building the fuselage, rather than having to take wings off at field to gain access to the fuel tank for any fuel feed problems, that everyone encounters from time to time, I made a fuel tank access cover that fastens to the longerons immediately aft of the firewall longways....and runs from the firewall to the forward part of the cockpit. Kind of tricky, but well worth it maintenance wise.

jspencer

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Here's some pictures of the progress and the headrest as promised, I've just been a little busy the past couple of days with work and haven't had much time on the hog.

jspencer

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A few more...

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Jspencer,
wow!!! looking great!!!

hookedonrc

Thanks Spence... I appreciate seeing the pictures of the headrest block. That is exactly what I plan to do. It looks pretty straightforward and not that difficult...if I can find the right sized block of balsa. In a previous post, I mentioned that I would bring the RX antennae up through the headrest, and then back to the fin. However, after having written that, I noticed that the RX and the battery is shown under the fuel tank on the plans. If that is where the RX will go, I will just bring the antennae straight through the fuse and exit just in front of the tailwheel bracket. From what I remember there shouldn't be much of the antennae hanging out if it is in the front.

Ken, if I am remembering right, you have a 91 four stroke on yours. I was wondering with that engine where you ended up with the RX and battery? Is this plane tailheavy before balancing?...or is it likely that I will need the weight shifted to the rear with the Saito 100 up front. Just want to get a feel for the plane and its overall distribution of weight. For example, I used the standard configuration on my Somethin Extra (OS46fx and the servos in the servo bay) and it was a little tail heavy. Would appreciate any comments on this from anyone else as well.

BTW: From now until Monday, May 16th, I am pretty much out of the shop... I will pick up the build again at that time..and will begin adding pics again.

Thanks,

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
First, I ran a tube down inside the fuselage (on the bottom). Drilled a couple of quick holes in each former and a drop of glue to hold it. Exited in front of the tail wheel. Shaved the tube flush with the bottom of the fuse, filled the area, and then sanded it smooth. I attached a small spring to my tail wheel mount and attached it to the antenna wire to keep tension on the wire and keep it in place. There is a block inside the fuse to keep the tension from pulling on the receiver itself.

When I first put the plane together I placed the receiver in front of the servos (glued a couple of popsicle sticks to make a cross member and used velcro to attach the receiver to them) and the battery (2100 MaH NiMH pack) directly under the cockpit. The CG was just a bit towards the tail, but still well in the CG range. When I flew the plane it was still very flyable, but a bit more tail heavy than I was comfortable with. I moved the battery up under the fuel tank and now I'm really happy with the way if flys now.

Hope this helps.

hookedonrc

Thanks ken, yes it does help. It tells me that the plane might tend toward being tail heavy before balancing. With the amount of space there is in the fuse under the cockpit, I would estimate that I will be able to move the battery and RX back and forth enough to avoid adding any lead, and that I might not have to move the battery back into the rear portion of the fuse behind the servo bay.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Hooked,
Definately, you should have more than enough room.

fred123

Spencer: Your work bench looks like mine... If I didn't know better, it looks like there is a package of diapers off to the side..Sure did like your work stand, sure beats my cardboard box. You are really making progress and it looks like your are about ready to cover. Whose brand of material will you use?

Don't remember where I saw it, but you can use those ends that you cut off the futaba control arms as stops for the antenna wire. There are two holes, just run it through one and back through the other. Fred123[&:]

jspencer

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks for the compliments guys. Hooked, I think that the balsa headrest actually is quite a bit lighter then the plastic one and I still need to carve a little more out and work on the fit with the turtle deck. I am really impressed by the way that everything really seemed to line up when I was assembling the different parts together. Everything was nice and straight and very little, if any, correction was needed for the bottom wing, vertical and horizontal stabs. This is just another good example of the quality of kit that Sig puts out.

Unfortunately things are probably going to slow down for meas well on the Hog. I'll probably get it covered and then it is going to have to sit for a little bit. I'm going to have to wait on the 9CAPs and servos for a little while (funds are a little low). That fine with me though as I have 1 ARF that was damaged during shipping and a replacement to assemble/fix, plus I have another bipe, an older Air-Flair Skymaster kit (ebay auction), that I need to assemble as well. Plenty to do, just not enough time to do it.

Hooked- Congrats to you and your son. I know that if it had not been for my parents I probably wouldn't have made it through college and be where I am at now.


Ken- have you got to use that Saito 100 yet? Just was curious to where you were at with it.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Fred,
yes, use your cut off control arms as stops for the antenna wire. That's what I use.

Jspencer.
Yeah, I've got the motor but haven't ran it yet. I'm moving a bit slower on the review than I would like to. If it's nice this weekend I will probably put the motor on a test stand and run a couple of tanks of fuel through it to start breaking it in. I just got the exhaust for it in today. Keleo Creations makes a custom exhaust system for the P-40 with a Saito 100. He doesn't have this new one on his website yet, but look at this one for the P-51, it's similar and you can get an idea of what it looks like.
[link]http://www.keleo-creations.com/Mustang3/100satman.htm[/link]
I can't wait to hear what it sounds like with this muffler.

I'll definitely keep you posted.

jspencer

My Feedback: (6)

fred123- The work bench is a little messy and I'm going to have to clean it up tonight as my wife would like her kitchen back.

Those are pull-ups, got a 1-1/2 yr old that were trying to potty train. Some of that mess was contributed to by my 3 yr old. She likes to take the scrap balsa and glue (lots of glue) it all together to make airplanes, she's my little helper.

The stand was easy and cheap to do. It is all 1-1/2" pvc with the 1-1/2" I.D. foam pipe covering to protect the planes from dings. I can break it down into several pieces for transporting to the field and assemble it in a minute or so. I built 2 hangars from the ceiling in the garage as well, one for wings and 1 plane, and another that will hold 4 planes. Total cost was something like $40 and well worth it.

I'm going to try Ultracote on the Hog and see what I think. I still need to figure out what scheme/colors I'm going to do. Probably just something simple and nice, I'm not into the flames and intensive cutting of covering stuff. The control horns work well as a stress/tension relief for the antenna, I've used them on a couple of planes so that there is no tension on the solder joint of the antenna and the Rx.

jspencer

My Feedback: (6)

Ken-

That is one sweet exhaust system! You will have to get a video of that on the test stand.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

Jspencer,
You can count on the video of it. I'll post it as soon as I get it.

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks a lot Hookedonrc and RC Ken!!

Now I have to get another Hog. I'm thinking I might modify the bottom wing to accept a nice forward swept landing gear- all dressed up of course.

RCKen

My Feedback: (9)

fred123

I did a preliminary CG yesterday, and to my surprise, it was slightly nose heavy. This is a first for me. My SE and 4* all required tons of lead in the nose. I am using a TT91 and the battery was just behind the back of the tank. I have not yet drilled the motor mounts or glued in the servo mounting base, so I have some flexibility and hope to avoid any lead. I am getting anxious and can’t wait to fly this thing. Fred123[&:][&:]

jspencer

My Feedback: (6)

fred123- sounds like you're getting really close to a maiden. Did you finish covering? I know that I said that I was going to use Ultracote, but when it came down to it all I purchased was Monkote. They had the colors that I was looking for. I'll post some pictures later today or tomorrow of my covering progress. I've done the bottom and sides of the fuse, bottom of the top wing and horizontal stab. I just need to finish up the bottom of the bottom wing and then move on to the next color.

fred123

Covering is all done except for the two wing servo hatch covers. Will post pictures when I get everything done. With any luck and if the weather lets me, I will fly by mid to late week. When I do my final CG, if I am still a little nose heavy, I will start looking for a pilot to install. Fred123[&:]