skyman-RCU

I realize some applications require the speed of CA, but which is really better overall? Which will give best holding power over the long term? Alephatic, epoxy or CA? Pro and cons. Thanks

Nick Hudson

My Feedback: (138)

First of all all of the above are good to certain aplications. I prefer CA on most balsa because of the speed and it will last as long as any glue. I use wood glue on large scale and major jobs for the cost factor and it does clean up nice. It also seems to work better when laminating 2 pieces together. (they hold better) with wood glue heat has no factor in strenth of structure and I've seen planes 20 years old that are as strong as the day they were built. Epoxy is my choice for tail feathers, firewalls, landing gear and wing blocks, or any other high strenth aplication. I prefer loner time CA such as 30 minute, the faster it sets the more brittle it becomes and with a plane I prefer a little streatch to it. One thing with epoxy that most people ignore is the heat factor that effects it. Once epoxy is heated up it will release or become weak, if you recover a plane it may cause structure problems in the future so be carefull. If recovering and not sure of strenth in joint you can simply heat up epoxy area and with a little work it will release, then clean up same way and rejoin. Hope this helps and this is my view and it may be wrong but it's worked for me over 16 years.

Nick Hudson

My Feedback: (138)

I'm adding to the CA aplication. I find CA not to work well on plywood, it has a tendecy to sit in top of the wood and isn't strong at all. When I glue plywood, if it's building something like a wing I use wood glue and if its a heavy load structure I use epoxy. I als use thin CA instead of thick it soaks into the wood better making a stonger joint when everything is true. I have seen thin CA soak all the way thru the wood . I know some people will use some CA's for ply but I haven't found any that works well.

Jim_McIntyre

I'll second most of Nick's statements.

I use "Yellow carpenters glue" almost exclusively now (with some epoxy for firewalls and wing joints etc.). I only use CA when I'm feeling lazy or making a hasty repair. I'm a bit concerned with the long term effects of CA and the number of people who've developed nasty allergies and side effects from inhaling it.

The carpenters glue is easy to work with, light, flexible and stronger than wood. It fills gaps well, cleans up with a damp rag, sands well and, when combined with sawdust, makes a decent filler.

rcpilotsteve-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

CA is fowl smelling, eye tearing, finger sticking and you can't sand it worth beans. I love constructing with Alphatic glue and Epoxy. Once you try it you will never go back. Alphatic glue does dry quick, it hardly smells at all and, it sands great. I choose my balsa carefully, If it is of desired density CA does not penetrate the wood before it's kicked. If the wood is so soft that the CA soaks in as soon as you apply the glue on the edge, your going to have a weak Aircraft. AKA, ARF's

captshabby

CA smells like chickens?

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Hi Jim, I need some guidance from you in using wood glue.

1) How do you build wings with this glue? If I am using CA, I would usually assemble the ribs and spars, etc, then apply thin CA along the joint corners. Do you apply wood glue the same way ? Does the glue seep into the joint surfaces well with this? Or do you have to apply the glue to the rib edge surface first, then press the rib down? Since wood glue dries slower than CA, how do you hold the pieces together until the glue hardens ?

2) Does wood glue work well with plywood especially for butt joining fuselage sides ?

3) Which wood glue is better ? The normal or waterproof type (Franklin) ?

Thanks.............

Gordon Mc

My Feedback: (11)

LOl ! Only if the fowl fouled....

Maybe CA just smells bad if you are assembling Foul-er flaps ? ;-)

Gordon

TurboOtter

My Feedback: (1)

Get sent to the Punitentiary for that one:-)

skyman-RCU

Thanks for all the replys. One more question. Anyone using Gorilla Glue or a moisture cured polyurethane glue like Titebond's ProBond? How well do these moisture cured glues work and are there any down sides to having to use moisture in the gluing process? Thanks

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

What kind of shelf life does aliphatic glue has, especially if the bottle has been opened ? Any idea ?

banktoturn

I am also curious to hear about anyone's experience with the polyurethane glues, such as Gorilla glue. I have been given the impression that this is the strongest wood glue available. Has anyone tried it for modelling? I have a 10 year old, still in the box, Goldberg Pro Tote that I am about to build. I was very concerned to see that the instructions recommend the use of CA to glue the plywood bottoms on the two sections, with simple butt joints. I am inclined to use aliphatic resin, epoxy, or Gorilla glue. Any thoughts??

Thanks,

banktoturn

Graxafone

I tried using Gorilla Glue where my verical stabilizer meets the fuselage. It was strong, but it foamed up a lot. I used super glue remover with acetone and removed it and haven't used it on my plane anywhere else. Wherever you are gluing, make sure the area is moist or damp.

TerrellFlyer

rajul I'm still using some that I opened 10 years or so, if I need to thin it I add water, just don't leave the cap off.
banktoturn I us Gorilla Glue a lot,go by the directions ,and be thrifty,the glue expands as it cures,fills cracks and voids,on butt joints it can expand and seperate the parts,also easy to sand and cover over,it will not replace all other glues but does have a place in our building especially on wood/foam,such as wings.
Have a goodun,John.

Graxafone

Then again, I'm using it on a servo rail.

Rodney

As long as it has not been frozen, alphatic life is several years but I believe most manufacturers say 1 year.

harphunt

Is alphetic glue what I used to use as a boy some 25 yrs. ago? That's when I last built or flew (control line). I like the super glue for quick repairs on my trainer, but I couldn't see building with it. Is this what modelers are using now? Epoxy makes sense on high stress areas, but what about general building?

TerrellFlyer

Hi Rodney,checked my bottles of aliphatic glue,Gluit,Weldwood,Elmer's Pro,Titebond,Titebond 2,do not give a shelf life,Elmers store at room temp,Titebond, Titebond 2 freezing does not effect, just reading off bottles,Weld wood bought in 95,can't tell any difference today.
Have a goodun,John.

banktoturn

harphunt,

From my own experience, any place that you might use epoxy, you could use wood glue, unless you need it to be fuelproof, in which case epoxy is the choice. I have found that I need to clamp the joint for either, since neither sets fast enough for me to sit and hold it, as you would with CA. Strength of the glue itself is not an issue, as all of these glues are stronger than the wood we are gluing. Ability to fill gaps is an issue, but epoxy and wood glue seem to be comparable in this regard.

Rodney,

I have been told that aliphatic resin is fine even after freezing, as long as you stir it to get it blended together again. Indeed, I have had a bottle freeze in my garage, and it seems to work fine since I stirred it up.

banktoturn