99GrandTouring

Just curious, I'm building my second kit ever, and this is my first kit that isn't interlocking.
I built my first kit (a PT40) several years ago and have either arf'ed or had others build for me, now that I have the time I am starting to build more kits because its enjoyable.

So how much CA should you use on a joint? So far I've been using it on the full joint / joints, is this ok or should you space it out in drops?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

A lot depends on the joint - there are a lot of different types.

First off, I rarely ever use thin CA (Except of course for CA Hinges, where it is a MUST)

So if it's a 1/4" stick that's being end-glued to another 1/4" piece, just a tad on the end is enough.

If I were gluing two 1/4" pieces together lengthwise (Let's just say 18" long) but there are only two joints like that in the kit, I would probably just run a thin bead of medium CA along one piece and join it to the other.

But if there were a lot of joints like that (EG. Cap Strips) I just use a drop of Medium CA at each end, and one in the middle, then I fill the rest of the joining area with wood glue (Just to save CA - it's expensive)

I do the same with doublers... A few strategic drops of CA to hold it, and wood glue in most of the area.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I mostly use the thin CA on most of my joints like the ribs and spars. I just hold or clamp things tight then just use A drop or two so the joint is covered. I also use those small tips on the bottle so I only use as much as I need. I use medium when I'm sheeting or need more time to get things set. The thick I use when I need more time.
It all just depends on the plane I'm building too, sometimes I just have to use what type is needed, the plane itself dictates what I'm going to use. I use thin at about to to one over the medium.

bryris

Is thin CA weaker tha med? I use medium whereever possible, however in some situations, its much easier to assemble the joint and flow the CA into it.

Also, a related question - I bought some "Flash" brand CA glue from Horizonhobby (Medium). It seems to take much longer to dry than my instacure brand did. However, the nozzle rarely ever clogs. I just take off the cap and it comes right out everytime.

Once, dried, is this flash glue as good as the insta-cure?

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I haven't found one being any stronger then the other but it probably will depend were it's used. To date I have never had A glue joint come apart on any completed model except on ground contact.
I have found different brands have different cure times though. When I can I try to get ZAP but it isn't carried by my local hobby shop. The stuff he carries [can't remember the name] is very fast. He also had an off brand I tried but it wasn't very good at all. The price was right though but it was very slow.

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Thin CA. If I'm gluing, say a rib to the leading edge, which will be a joint of no more than an inch, a single drop is usually enough. If you put it at the top of the joint it will flow down the joint and penetrate the entire length.

If you add a drop to a joint, you can usually see how far the CA "wicks". You do not have to saturate the joint.

I too have seen differing cure rates depending on the manufacturer, and Jet does take longer. I've also never seen a difference in strength between brands or medium/thin.
Dennis-

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

don't forget to add the little tubing to the end of the bottle - it distributes a lot LESS glue, but much more accurately. One or two drops should do for most joints.

Jerry

Redback

Anyone notice that CA cures much quicker if:-

1. The parts you are joining are misaligned
2. One of the parts is your finger

Or is it just me?


Terry

99GrandTouring

very true redback..

Well I've used about 1/2 of a 2ox bottle of medium CA building a 2M glider...
At first I used alot but as I've gone on through the kit I'm using less and less, just have one more outer wing panel to do and I'm done.