ecoliburger

My Feedback: (18)

Ive been building and flying for over ten years. I have always wondered why Monokote is so popular. In my opinon it is one of the worst coverings made. Constantly needs reshrinking and comes off with fuel etc. Am I way off or do other people think this stuff is crap??

rcpilotsteve-RCU

My Feedback: (5)

I covered my 60 size warplane with Silver Ultracoat, had a great time with it only seams are on top and bottom center. The top seam is pinstriped so the Plane pretty much looks painted. I just bought a roll of white Monokote. There is a huge difference with the way the Monokote goes on and it's not for the better. Either way I bet you'll have a great looking plane.
Utracoat has my vote.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I like Ultracote too. Won't ever use MonkeyKote again.

Dago Red

My Feedback: (11)

Monokote is the only thing I use. It only comes off when you have oil on you wood-- you might want to check your wood. Ive used all other coverings and as far as im concered its all crap--that crap sig makes-weather is still made--i hate that stuff.you have to use lots of heat to use monokote--not low heat ,look into that to. and shink you monokote to the point where it wont strech any more ,but dont melt.

Cdallas2

If Monokote is OKAY - but is really hard to work with. I find Ultracote nice but for the money use Econokote. Easy to work with, all the same colours and half the price. If you have some extra cash you can't go wrong with the 21st Century products.

ramcharger

I use Monokote and like it. I fly a lot and it holds up quite well. Ultracote has become more popular and I like it but haven't used it in a while. I would recommend highly against the use of EconoCote on fuel powered planes. I think it would be great for powerless or electric powered airplanes. I bought a dozen rolls of Econocote for $59.99 at a local hobby store in 97 or 98 and used it on a Dazzler, Sig Wonder, 4*40, and some on a Sig Kougar. I was impressed with EconCote at how easy it went on and how great it looked but it was all down hill later. After one year all the Econocote that was in contact with the exhaust residue unlaminated. The clear peeled off and the color coat turned into mush. I recovered all the planes with MonoCote and that is no fun. Mind you, I fly a lot. The SIG Wonder lasted a couple years because it wasn't flown much but since it lands on the grass and get scuffed up a lot I ignored it. When I recovered it the balsa was in bad shape. I also had to replace the Dazzler's aileron and elevator on the exhaust side because of soaked wood. I hear Tower cote is the same.

049flyer

My Feedback: (18)

If you want it to last you have to paint it!

It's more work in the beginning but not much ongoing maintenance like the films. No bubbles, no wrinkles, no sagging. Looks good for a long long time.

Same amount of work except with paint you do it in the beginning, with films you do it as you go. But in the end the painted model looks better longer!

Gdolboy3

2 Fast, How is it that you prep a model for paint. Is it fiberglassed all over? I know that with practice anyone can get good at using any type of "kote", but I've always wanted to try painting. I would think no matter what the hassles (if it is a hassle) to prep a model for paint it would pay off alot more than getting almost an entire wing with a wrinkless "kote" only to burn a hole right thru at the end.

049flyer

My Feedback: (18)

I use Nitrate dope and silkspan over solid balsa surfaces. It's very easy to use, inexpensive and light. I mix talc with the nitrate dope as a filler and it fills the weave of the silkspan with about three coats. You can buy dope and thinner at most aircraft supply houses.

There are many threads on the best way for finishing using these materials. But I can tell you that it is not near as much work as the Monokote guys would have you believe. The control line guys are the experts with this method but they put alot more work into their finish than I do.

2 coats on bare wood, apply the covering then 2 coats of straight dope to seal then 2 coats of filler and 2 or 3 of paint and you are done. The dope dries very fast. I think it is fun to work with and it looks good and lasts.

Nothing makes me madder than to spend alot of time on a finish (film) and after a week or two it looks awful with bubbles and wrinkles.

Over open areas, you can use silkspan on very small models or sig Koverall. Koverall is very light and if you are careful will even weigh less finished than monokote, or slightly more.

For paint I have used Sig dope with some success although I understand that Brodak dope is better. I also use Epoxy paint although it is getting hard to find. Dope is very easy to work with and dries fast and is fuel proof.