Ron570

I'm looking for opinions on paints to use over fiberglass covered balsa. I've used Perfect Paint but am not completely satisfied with it. I've heard of using automotive paint but what is the best for the money, enamel, lacquer, urethane. Which give the best or acceptable finish? Do all hold up to glow fuel? I've got some concerns about enamel since it takes a long time to fully cure. Are there any other paint systems out there that are better or accptable while being cheaper? I believe auto paint stores will match military colors or any color?

Jafrh

My Feedback: (1)

Try Nelson Hobbies. They have a great paint system and will match any color.
Think their web site is www.nelsonhobbies.com. If not, their toll free number is: 1-877-263-5766.

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

I recently had some experience with the Nelson paint. Initially I was not impressed, as I had wanted to match the green ultracoat color of my Sig Sukhoi. Nelson advertises a match for ultracoat colors. I purchased a pint of green and a pint of cream. The green was too dark, the cream was a perfect match. I used some of the cream to lighten the green, and eventually came up with a good match. I was repairing and repainting the fiberglass cowl of my Sukhoi.

Forget everything you know about traditional paints. This stuff is water based, but is totally unlike any latex you may have had experience with. If sprayed on in light coats it will fill the sanding marks left by Nelson's instructions. They recommend using nothing less than 320 for final sanding. I first tried 320 and a day later the paint lifted off in large rubbery sheets. Next day I scuffed up the surface with 220, and repainted. I applied six light coats in about an hour. It looks good with a fair gloss. I checked it this morning before coming to work. I think that after the paint has sufficient time to cure that it will be fine, but it still seems a bit rubbery.

Once you get over the traditional spray painting habits, this paint goes on great. If sprayed in multiple light coats it will not run.

As far as how durable it is, I will withhold comments until I find that out, but initial impressions are positive.

I really like the water cleanup, lack of over spray, and no odor.

Vince

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

Jet Hanger Hobbies also sells a good paint and will match to scale exactly. Give them a call. http://www.jethangar.com

Mark M.

MikeS

My Feedback: (37)

I have been using Nelson's for a while, and love it. I have not used it in large spray jobs (I don't have a sprayer." Just last month, on a joint project, the other guy got his experience buddy to spray it on. He would not let me do it cause I did not have the large sprayer work. In spite of my protests, instructions and everything else, he sprayed it on thick in one layer, just like he does with lacquer. Went on great, looked great. Now, a month later, the edges are peeling. When all esle fails, read the instrructions. This guy had never used the water based poly-u, but he had painted many, many models. I guess he was trying to show me my place when he did not follow the instructions.
The other guy put up the bucks, I put up the building experience. I guess he had the bucks to spare, but paint for a 120" B-17 ain't cheap.

ilikeplanes

Go to the Tips & Techniques section and do a search on paint. You will find more than you ever wanted to know including my own rants regarding LustreKote.

whstlngdeath

My Feedback: (15)

I've been using good old exterior latex house paint for a while now. Great durability and is impervious to gasoline. Glow fuel will
react to the latex and a clear polyurethane or enamel needs to be
used. This stuff sticks to fabric covering well, too and since it is a
rubberized paint, it isn't affected by the expansion or contraction
of the fabric and is very durable. A special technique is required to successfully paint with latex. Click on the link below to see a
very good process I found in Model Airplane News a while back.
This way of painting is also very inexpensive. A quart of custom-
mixed paint will only set you back 8-12 dollars and that's enough
to do a few planes. If the following link doesn't work, go to the
M.A.N. website and click the "how-to's" link. There you will find this
and many more good tips and tricks that really work. Good luck.

http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

Ron570

Thanks very much for all the information. I've got some avenues to try.

I've heard of a few memebers in my club that use latex house paint. I don't think I've ever seen any planes with it but I'll find out who they are now.

I think I saw Nelson hobbies paint at the Toledo show in the spring, was interested but a little leary because I didn't know anything about it and water based. But he had a plane that he painted with a foam paint brush. When you were right on top of it you could see the brush marks but it didn't look half bad. I've got a sprayer so I'd go that way.

Guess I won't be leary of water based paints anymore.

Thanks for all the great information I'll be using something different next time.

More replies are welcome.

Vince

My Feedback: (1)

I finished spraying my fiberglass cowling with the Nelson paint system. The results were less than satisfactory. I must state, for any rebuttals, that the instructions for spraying and surface preparation were followed to the letter.

I had on very small run develop after several sessions of spraying light coats. These sessions applied from four to five very light coats over the period of several hours

After drying for approximately 36 hours I attempted to dry sand out the small run. It went well for a while, then all of a sudden the paint lifted from the surface. I was unable to obtain a feather edge with this paint. I eventually decided to totally removed the paint from the cowling and try again. To my amazement the entire paint job lifted completely off the cowling in one rubbery sheet.

I read and reread the Nelson instruction prior to painting. I used a Binks auto touch up gun at the recommended 30psi. I have a large commercial water separator on my compressor.

This paint is not for the faint of heart. I think that a good finish can be had with it, with a lot of experimentation. I do not know how long this paint remains rubbery, but I found it impossible to obtain a feather edge with it.

I am returning to traditional paint for the finishing up of my cowling. You guys that have had good results with this stuff, I am happy for you. I will never go back to it. As I stated in another forum, I have had better results from house latex on warbirds.

Just my 2
Vince