smkrcflyer

It helps me I was wondering about that also. My current problem is hinging the aileron's. I tried using the flat ones twice but they did not turn out so good. Now I'm going to try Robart hinge points, but it looks like I need to make a jig to hold it at the correct angle.

FlyingGreg

My Feedback: (4)

Steve

I haven't been on the forums in a long while but am glad to see others are building this great model. Anthony set the bar way up there with his clipped wing Cub.

I used the robart hinges on my Cub and have used them almost exclusively on everything since that is big enough. To install, I marked where the holes went, laid the aileron on the flat work bench and used a hand drill at the appropriate angle. I did not have problem keepin the angle consistent. It doesn't have to be perfect. I used a dremel with a cone shaped abrasive wheel to "countersink" the holes so the knuckle of the hinge would be recessed. Do this on both surfaces. Take a toothpick and drop ONE drop of 3 in 1 Oil on the knuckle and use your glue of choice in the holes you have prepared. I used canopy glue. Others have used regular wood glue and others yet have used epoxy. I would not use Gorilla Glue as the foaming expansion will be difficult to control. With canopy glue, which is white and dries clear, I simply squirted a small amoun in each hole then inserted the hinges in the aileron and then the trailing edge of the wing. Once you have them seated, simply move the aileron up and down a few times and the hinges will orient themselves for proper operation. Of course you would have inserted them originally in close to optimum orientation. Set aside and let dry. You can tape them if you want. I used the Robart hinge points on all the control surfaces with canopy glue and they have help up splendidly.

BTW, on one of the other forums, building or tips and techniques, there is a thread on installing Robart hinges.

Best of luck.

Greg

WacoNut

Steve,
I free handed the hinges in my Cub as Greg did on his and it worked ok. On the 33% Waco I am building now I made a jig to match the angles of the aileron and the aileron bay rear spar and used that for drilling the holes and it worked great. The jig is very easy to make with a table saw and drill press.
Later!
Anthony

smkrcflyer

So it looks like I need to drill the hole on an angle so the center of the pin in the robart hinge is where the top of the aileron meets the wing, is this correct?

WacoNut

Yes that is correct, you will need the pivot point in same same location on all the hinges for the surface to operate freely.

Davide72

hoooooooo yesss!! thanks so much EF!!!
i choice to robart hinge

smkrcflyer

Thanks guys that was easy. I used my Dermal tool on low speed and was able to look down it and get a good look at the angle. Here are some pictures of the installation and some of my strut ends. Let me know what you think?

WacoNut

Steve,
The strut ends look good, here is a tip for you. Get some JB Weld and bild up the area at the end of the strut to mold it to the ball end. This will make it look much better. I used this method on my 25% Waco struts and they turned out very nice. I am attaching pics of my Waco struts before and after.
Later!!
Anthony

FlyingGreg

My Feedback: (4)

SteveYour hinges look just fine. Nice job.

AnthonyHow you doing? Are you still flying your Cub? Don't know if I mentioned earlier, but I installed a Toro 25CC in my Cub. I'm having a little trouble getting good fuel draw and suspect it's something to do with the spacer between the carb and cylinder. I have a friend that is going to help me get it running better soon as the weather warms. I have gotten it to run well enough for a few flights and it's great! Beets the heck out of the cost of running the Saito 1.80 I originally had on it.

Later.

WacoNut

Hi Greg,
have not flown all year, I have been so busy with work I don't have time to think much less fly. I have been trying to get my 33% AMR Waco built for almost a year now. My wife was diagnosed with cancer about 3 months ago and has had surgery and is now going thru Chemo and will have to go thru 30 radiation treatments once the chemo is complete. So to say the least not much time for R/C for a while.
I will hopefully be seeking out a club in the Cinci area next spring and once my Waco is complete I will be starting a 33% Curtis Jenny from blown up Proctor plans, 174.5" Wingspan and 109" fuse length.
Later!!
Anthony

Cyklamera

Hello smkrcflyer.

I just wonder if you use K & S metalstrut on your Cub? If so, wich K & S articlenumber are you using?

Tnx for all help!

Mats McLund

smkrcflyer

Mats,
They are K&S and the numbers are 1104 & 1105.

BlackPowder

Hello,
Hope you don't me joining in, I am in the process of building my Sig CW now and have just finished epoxying the door mods. Between using The Cub Den and Anthony's pictures it made it a little easier, but was a challange. I will try to post some pictures. Also I fly at 5,000 ft. so I am going to use a DLE30 engine (yes I'm as gas nut). Jim

swixtt

look forward to your pics!

my build has slowed lately. i am about to start the vertical fin and rudder.

BlackPowder

Ok this is my first time to post pictures. Also I made a new firewall out of 1/4 ply and sandwiched it between F1A and F1C, this will give me a stronger mount for my DLE30 and it put me at the correct dictance. I will also had triangle stock. Jim

WacoNut

Your door mod is looking good!!!
It's alot of extra work but believe me it's worth it.
Anthony

BlackPowder

Anthony,
Thanks, the instructions say to solder in front of F5 but I noticed that you soldered in back, this makes more sense. What did you made your window frame out off? Your airplanes look very good! Jim

WacoNut

I did the windows per the instructions if I remember right, it has been a while.
I decided to solder the wires behind the former as I thought it would look cleaner and also help lock the wires into the former. I believe the cabin structure is stronger when built with the open door mod, you will see when you are finished that it is rock solid and it really doesn't add much weight to the plane.
Later!!
Anthony

swixtt

i believe this is because of the wing mounting. having the solder in front will leave a cleaner joint into the wing. i wondered about that too.

ntsmith

Just seen this pic with that mod. It really allows you to see - and get to that lovely engine. Great idea.

WacoNut

You just have to drill a hole in the wing for the rods if you solder behind the former and it will not weaken the ply doubler in the wing enough to worry about. I have put mu Cub through many snap rolls and spins without any issues.
Later!!
Anthony

BlackPowder

I agree with Anthony, so i soldered them on the back side. Then filled the front with epoxy like in the instructions. Jim

BlackPowder

Does anybody know what shade of blue that Hazel's cub is? Jim

Davide72

Hello guys!!
wow so much work for sand that wings!!

smkrcflyer

Anthony,
Did you have any problems with the Aileron push rod clearing the wing strut? Mine look real close. I did my servos the same way you did.