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Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

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Old 03-22-2005, 09:45 PM
  #76
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Sorry no pics tonight!!
I worked on sanding the center section and I now have the wing sanded and ready to mount to the fuse. I installed the wing mounting block in the fuse with epoxy. I test fit the wing and I was amazed to find that it was perfect with no adjustments required(a first for me) the measurement from the last rib to the glass table top was identical at each wing tip and the wing tip to aft end of fuse was same on both sides I will let the epoxy cure until tomorrow then drill the mounting holes.
I installed the nose bottom sheeting after installing hangers to secure the fuel tank. I will sand the nose to shape tomorrow. I will still have plenty of room to get at and install the blind nuts for the engine mount. The worst that can happen is I will have to cut the firewall off and mount a new one further back if my engine is too long I hate to proceed without it but I am tired of waiting and my budget requires me to wait a couple of weeks to buy the engine.
I will keep doing minor odds and ends to the plane during the week then I will get on with covering the stab and elevator and mounting them to the fuse this weekend. I will then be able to run the linkages to the elevator and rudder. If all goes well I will have everything ready for covering by the end of the weekend and I will working on the scale details.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:24 PM
  #77
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Anthony- have you checked the position of the wing strut mount in relation to the rear landing gear mounts? The scale mount for the struts is just ahead of the rear gear mount, but the Robart gear (at least on my 1/5 scale) had to mount in the same spot, due to the gear being a bit shorter (from the front to the rear mount) than scale. I have two types of scale gear for my 1/5, the Robart, and one from William Wallace. His gear is much more scale, but it is not quite as robust as the Robart. I compared the measurements of both against the full size to come up with this determination. If you notice on the Robart, the rear "corner" of the triangular gear brackets is a butt joint and sort of squared off; the full-size (and the Wallace) is curved at the very end where it joins. You could grind the Robart a bit there without compromising strength to round it off, and after covering the legs, it would look the same as scale. I also found the "vee" shaped piece that the sliding bungee arms attach to needed spacers where they mount to the main mounting brackets.

I ordered a set of 1/4 robart gear for my Cub (that I haven't built yet) yesterday, I haven't been able to find Wallace; I heard he does this out of his home and it is a seasonal thing for him (he lives in Idaho), and his website won't load. Anyway, the differences are minor, and I think in the long run the Robart will last longer. The pins where the gear legs pivot are serious on the Robart gear. The Wallace uses 4-40 bolts and the tubing is a bit softer, so the holes are wallowing a bit on my 1/5 scale. It sounds like a wagon when it rolls down the runway I am going to see if I can overdrill them and put brass tubing sleeves in them to "overhaul" them, but if it doesn't work I will install the Robart gear I already have for it. I do like the way the axle pin inserts through the wheel and is then held by a set screw. No wheel collar to come loose. Look at the pix of my L-4 and see if you can tell the differences that are hard to describe.
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Old 03-22-2005, 10:44 PM
  #78
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Khodges,
I already noticed the squared off area you are talking about on the gear and I plan on fixing that, I beg to differ with you a little on the strut mounting location. On the full scale Cub the struts mount @ the rear gear mounting point(see attached pic) I plan on mounting my struts at this location by recessing the strut mounting plate between the gear mount and the fuse. It should look very scale when complete.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:25 PM
  #79
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Dang-- you're right. I drug out my pix that I used for detailing mine and shure enuf, it mounts right on top of each other. I guess I've looked at my L-4 so long that I forgot that there were a couple of things I didn't stay faithful to. Another reason that I haven't switched my gear from the Wallace to the Robart, is that I was going to have to recess the strut mount, as you are doing. I also want to get as many landings out of the Wallace gear as I can before I change it out. Either way, it's cool as hell to watch the gear spread when you make a harder than usual touchdown. That is another difference between the brands, BTW. The Robart uses hefty o-rings as shock absorbers, and they seem to be just the amount of stretch and tension needed; the Wallace gear uses rubber bands, and I had to experiment with how many bands and how many turns per band to get the amount of "give" just right while making them stiff enough to support the plane on the ground. The Robart gear also didn't come with bungee covers, and the Wallace gear does. As much as the things cost, you'd think it would be complete.

What did you say you are powering this Cub with? Gas or glow?
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Old 03-24-2005, 08:51 AM
  #80
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I am going to mount a Magnum .120 4-stroker.
I checked here at work and we have the o-rings in stock so I should never run out I will be building my folding wing struts this weekend. Lastnight I went ahead and laminated another 1/8" of ply at the rear gear mounting location since I will have to recess the strut mount. If everything goes as planned I will be ready to start covering the plane by the end of the weekend.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-24-2005, 10:10 PM
  #81
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

A little more progress on the Cub tonight,
I built the window frame and hinged the door, the door hinges turned out nice. I used Robart hinges, they are not as scale as what I was wanting to do but I decided it wasn't worth the trouble. I have decided to go with piano hinges at the top of the window due to how thin the structure is there.
I also finish sanded the front end of the fuse. I am happy with how smooth the fuse and wing are but I keep putting dings in them everytime I work on them,they are so large I hit everything in the room[:@].
Here are a couple of pics of the window and the door hingeing.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-25-2005, 06:11 PM
  #82
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I just picked up the last few items that I need to construct the folding struts. I will get the wing mounting holes drilled and tapped tonight and start contructing the wing struts. I will take pics as I go and post them when completed.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:00 AM
  #83
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I did alot(should say worked alot) on the Cub tonight, I recessed the strut mounting plates . I had to shave out 1/16 of an inch to allow the plates to sit flush with the surface and they will be held in by the landing gear. I have the gear temporarily mounted to allow me to build the struts.
I also drilled the wing mounting holes and tapped the holes in the wing mounting block, I then hardened the threads with thin CA. This took me alot longer than anticipated so i will start constructing the Struts in the morning and hopefully get some pics.
Later!!!
Anthony
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Old 03-26-2005, 12:11 PM
  #84
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I have the lift strut for the right wing assembled and fitted, they turned out really nice. Now on to the jury struts then the left wing.
Anthony
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Old 03-26-2005, 02:17 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I finished the jury strut for the right wing. The scale folding struts are alot of work, not difficult just teadious work. I think it is looking good!!! Now on to the left wing struts
Anthony
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Old 03-26-2005, 05:13 PM
  #86
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I completed the wing struts, next is no mount the stabilizer and fin and install the servo's and linkages for the elevator and rudder. The wing is now ready for final sanding and covering, I am going to finish the interior details before doing any covering. The plane is so large that I am always bumping it into everything while working on it. I have decided to get as much as possible done to it before applying any covering.
Here are a couple pics of the completed wing struts.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-26-2005, 08:31 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Anthony- what is the bracket that mounts the jury strut to the main strut made of? can you show a closeup of it? Unfortunately, my bifocals, even at +1.50 and +1.75, aren't strong enough to let me see it well. I am continually impressed with your quality of work and attention to detail. Or are you a total sot, and the little airplane elves coming out after you pass out and doing this for you?
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Old 03-26-2005, 09:25 PM
  #88
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Khodges,
No Elves just alot of hours I have been working on the Cub for 10 hours today and will probably put a few more in before I stop for the night.
The Folding Strut mod is from Cubmans website, he gives you instruction plus a parts list of what is required to make the struts. The band around the strut is .035 x 1/4" brass and the coupler is from a Dubro strip aileron horn.I just went down and took a couple closeup shots, I had already removed the struts from the plane. I am in the middle of installing the elevator servo.
Later!!
Anthony
ps. My camera isn't the greatest for closeups.
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Old 03-26-2005, 10:34 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build


Quote:
ORIGINAL: WWIINUT

Khodges,

ps. My camera isn't the greatest for closeups.
Well, my eyes aren' for sh*t either. I have to do all my fine work under a 3X magnifier, I just can't see close up any more. Those wing struts are nice. My 1/5 scale I just leave the struts on the wings, but they stick out in the breeze and make the wings awkward to transport, they take up more space than necessary. It' just too time consuming to put them on and take them off the wing each time I fly. At least my wings are two piece, that helps
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Old 03-26-2005, 10:55 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

anthony, looking real good! only one comment... i noticed you have metal clevises attaching the struts to the fuse which is also metal (aluminum?). do you think that may present a RF interference problem due to the metal-to-metal contact?
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Old 03-26-2005, 11:55 PM
  #91
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build


Quote:
ORIGINAL: tubig

anthony, looking real good! only one comment... i noticed you have metal clevises attaching the struts to the fuse which is also metal (aluminum?). do you think that may present a RF interference problem due to the metal-to-metal contact?
Hi Tubig,
I am not sure about the interferance, Cubman has been flying his Cub with this setup. I will have to drop him a mail and see what he has to say about it. I have never suffered any interferance problems but I definitly do not want to start now
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-27-2005, 12:00 AM
  #92
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Khodges,
You can make a set of folding struts for your Cub for about $40-$45, they are a little time consuming to make but they sure do look nice and they will fold flat against the wing by removing 2 bolts.
I just installed the elev,rudder and throttle servo, I am going to call it a night and get back at it in the morning.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-27-2005, 10:04 AM
  #93
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I'll probably do it for my 1/4 scale when I build it; I've got too many other retrofit projects going on to want to mess with another. I want to finish those up so I can start a new build. I trashed my Rascal 40 on an aborted approach (engine stalled 10 feet up and it hit hard, cracked every joint on the plane). It's been repaired too many times already. I bought another one after the 1st crash (a year ago), and it's been sitting in the box. I guess it's time to drag it out and transfer all the stuff from the old one, plus I'm building a set of floats for it.

The other project I sort of completed, but found I have some reinforcement to do. I was given an old Bud Nosen trainer, looks like a 1/4 scale boxy 150 Cessna, 88 inch wing. I had bought a US-41 engine from the guy. I got it flying yesterday, flies absolutely great, but the big gasser almost tore out the firewall after 30 minutes of flying, so I've got to fix that.

Plus a remodeling project at my rental house next door that seems like it will never be done; I still work full time, am sleeping less so I can have more airplane time (gotta set your priorities) so my plate is sorta full. I'm gonna follow the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" theme for a while.
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Old 03-27-2005, 04:19 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I covered the Stabilizer,
This is my 1st time using Sig Koverall and the stuff is great, I still need to put a few coats of Nitrate Dope on the seal the fabric.
Anthony
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Old 03-27-2005, 09:18 PM
  #95
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I have 2 coats of dope on the stab and will let it dry and give it a sanding tomorrow after work and probably apply one more coat before mounting to the plane. I plan on mounting the stab tomorrow then fitting the elevator and fabricating the pushrod. I will give the wing a good going over and start applying the initial coats fo Nitrate in preperation for covering. If all goes well I will have everything but the fuse covered by next weekend. Now if I can get my wife to get my seats covered by then
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-27-2005, 10:24 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I found that you really don't need to sand the doped finish at all, except maybe to smooth the seams a bit, but use at least 300 grit. If you use pinking tape, it will hide what little seam you will have anyway. As the dope cures, brush marks will fade, and sanding won't get rid of them anyway. I tried to sand down the pinking tape to make it less "proud", but had little luck, and actually sanded through the Koverall in one place, where there was a former just below the cover, and had to patch it. The neat thing was, the hole was no bigger than the diameter of a pencil lead, and I cut a postage stamp piece of Koverall, brushed some dope over the hole and lay the patch over it and brushed more dope on the patch, and it disappeared. You really can't see it. I've already decided I'll never use anything other than Koverall unless I skin the fuse or wing. It never sags after it's shrunk and doped/painted. The Bud Nosen trainer I was given is covered in it, I'll bet the plane is at least 15 years old, and it's tight as a drum head.
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Old 03-27-2005, 11:06 PM
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I just saw your post on the other forum about koverall. You don't need to wet it. I don't know what you're using to adhere it to the airframe, but I highly recommend Sig StixIt. It brushes on like dope, put it ONLY where you want the cover to adhere (wherever there is a seam). It will dry in a couple of minutes, and then you treat it like a heat activated covering. When you pull your covering snug, hit the seam with your iron and it will stick it down. I didn't put it on all the wood / cover contact area so the cover could move and evenly shrink. When you do your first couple of dopings, it will bleed through and stick the already shrunk cover to all the ribs, leading edges, stringers, etc. You've already gotten started, so you've probably figured this out by now. When I covered my wings, I did each wing with one large piece of Koverall, tacking it to the backside of the trailing edge, bringing it over the leading edge from underneath and tacking it again to the backside of the trailing edge, overlapping it about 1/4 inch. Then I tacked it at the root end (2-piece wing), and then worked around the wingtip, pulling it fairly tight with my fingers as I stuck it down with the iron. When I shrunk the fabric I alternated top to bottom along th full span of each wing half to evenly distribute the tension in order not to warp the wing. You could see the Koverall move over the ribs as it shrunk, and you could bounce a coin off of it when done.

Where I overlapped the covering seams, I also brushed a little more Stix It on top of the first layer of fabric to ensure a good bond, and when I put pinking tape on, what little seam there was disappeared.
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Old 03-28-2005, 10:10 AM
  #98
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I am using Nitrate Dope to adhere the covering, so far so good. I may switch to PolyC to fill the weave and as a clear over the Latex paint.
Later!!
Anthony
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Old 03-28-2005, 10:34 AM
  #99
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

Just a note on the struts. I have complete instructions on building them on my site. www. Thecubden.org . I have been using this setup in my 1/4 scale for several years now. I do fly with the Hitec PCM equipment but I have never noticed it going into fail safe. Only metal to metal contact is where the struts fasten to the fuselage. In the original design I used the Dubro 4-40 Rod Ends. ((Dubro # 302). A question few entrees above asked about the strength of the jury struts. Although I don’t do a lot of wild flying with this setup, I have rolled, and looped the plane several times. I believe this set up to be just a strong in not stronger then the setup on the plans. After all Sig and Balsa USA only use spruce for the struts. I have only had one failure of this system. I was about 5 feet off the deck of our grass runway and it stalled. Nose down it hit the ground. With this force, the left wing came forward, the 1/4 ply feed through section broke in the center of the wing along with the two 4-40 ball links where the struts attached to the wing. The 4-40 ball links failed in a manner where the plastic wraps around the ball. I will say a 18-pound plane coming out of a loop would probably put some stress on this setup but it has not failed in flight yet.
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Old 03-28-2005, 04:29 PM
  #100
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Default RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

I am not worried about the strength of RF interferance. The Stock struts called for metal to metal attachment, I do not think it will be an issue.
Later!!
Anthony
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