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  1. #2176
    acerc's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    What I did was stack and drill one size larger than the tube. Then made plates to slide on over the tube at each rib. Put the wings on and raise the ends to the desired dihedral. Then glued the plates in place. The cub's did not have much, a degree I believe.
    And in case you did not catch it the first time those little D-Sub connector's are so I don't have to plug and un plug the servo's. Plug and play, it work's great.
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184

  2. #2177
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    The connectors are definately slick. I'll definately think about using a wing tube for my future builds. Being my first build in 6 years I'm trying to learn the most I can but not get in too much over my head.

  3. #2178
    acerc's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    That's cool.
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184

  4. #2179
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Neddy from what I can see through your pictures you don't have anything to worry about, your doing a fine job. This build will test not only your skills but your patience as well.
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2

  5. #2180
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Modifying the front end so I can use the DLE-30. I'll have to move the firewall back. I cut out the front section from the other set of plans and taped it over the main side view of the Cub (just because its more clear to see when I build the piece). I then measured the length of the DLE from the prop hub to the back of the standoffs and subtracted about 3mm for the prop hub to stick out in front the cowl. I took that measurement and transferred it to the plans parallel to the firewall on the plans to keep the small amount of downthrust that is built in per plans. I'm using a Pitts type muffler that would interfere if I made the firewall full length so I"ll have to stop it just above the muffler and add another piece of ply at and angle to allow for clearance.

    Pic 1: plans
    Pic 2: line for new firewall placement drawn on plans (the line the pencil is pointing to is the front of the firewall)
    Pic 3: the angled piece I'll have to add at the bottom of the firewall to allow room for the muffler
    Pic 4: the DLE30 and muffler laid on top of plans

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  6. #2181
    acerc's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Look's good. Only one thing left to do.
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
    Corsair Brotherhood #56\\ Waco Brotherhood #184

  7. #2182
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Post of the actual firewall coming soon.

    Shortening the front balsa nose piece this much won't leave much room to attach the cowl. I'm planning on leaving the ply nose pieces full length and making some doublers forward of the firewall to make sure there is plenty of length to attach the cowl to.

    Pic 1: original piece with line marked for new size
    Pic 2: both sides, one already resized
    Pic 3: both pieces ready
    Pic 4: resized nose assembly
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  8. #2183

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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Neddy have you considered the rear exhaust DLE or better yet the Syssa? I got the Syssa inside the stock firewall and cowl with only shorter standoffs. Obviously you already have the DLE so that would be a costly change but that is why I went with the Syssa 30, it just fit and solved alot of problems.
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  9. #2184
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I hadn't considered it but I'm going to stick with the DLE30, both because I already have it and dont want to buy another engine, and because I think its a good exercise and learning experience in building for me to do the modifications to make the DLE work.

  10. #2185
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I've completed the firewall. I epoxied a piece of 1/4" to 1/8" birch ply to make a firewall 3/8" thick. I then carefully measured the dimensions (about 20 times I think) at the new firewall lines I drew on the plans for the placement of the firewall, both on the side view and the top view to come up with my the firewall size. I measured, marked and cut out the firewall. Since the nose section is tapered I measured the angle and found it was 5 degrees. I used my belt/disk sander and set the table to the 5 degrees and then sanded the taper in being careful not to take off too much material and thus make the firewall too narrow. It turns out that the stock F2 is at the back of where new new firewall will be so it was nice to be able to use it to trace the curve on the top of the firewall. I cut it out on the bandsaw and smoothed it up on the belt sander. I've marked my firewall and drilled my initial pilot holes for the engine standoffs. The firewall was alot of measuring and remeasuring but I'm glad its done.

    Pic 1: Firewall cut out and standing on top view of plans
    Pic 2: measuring the angle of the taper in the nose
    Pic 3: firewall after tapering side to match the angle
    Pic 4: F2 used as a pattern for the curve on the top of the firewall
    Pic 5: Firewall after cutting, sanding, tapering the sides
    Pic 6: finished firewall marked and initial pilot holes for engine mount drilled

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  11. #2186
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I've now pretty much got all the various parts I need to assemble the fuse together. Going to the hobby shop in the morning to get a few things. Planning on getting the fuse put together this weekend. It'll be nice to have the bones of a plane instead of stack of sticks glued together.

  12. #2187
    VincentJ's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Slow and steady Neddy wins the race...Hey I just busted a rhyme
    VJ

    Ryan ST-A Brotherhood #2

  13. #2188
    acerc's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Coming right along Neddy.
    Robert
    Cub Brotherhood #3\\ Ryan STA Brotherhood #4
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  14. #2189
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I have gotten the last few pieces done that I need to assemble the fuse. I'm going to use 1/8" music wire extending from the root rib/cabin top down the window support to the nosepiece where it will be epoxyed into place adjacent to the stock 5/16" music wire support pieces. This should make the front of the cabin plenty stiff. First I used my dremel to create a channel in both front windshield support pieces to fit the music wire. I then had to temporarily put them in place on the root rib/cabin top to find the center of the hole I needed to drill. Next I VERY CAREFULLY drill an 1/8" hole into the root rib to accept the end of the music wire. I was afraid I"d get the hole crooked and end up drilling out of the rib and having to make a new one all over but all turned out well. Finally, I filled in the groove on the stock landing gear block and laminated the stock piece of 1/8" ply to the front one and made a wide piece of 1/8" ply for the rear one. (I'll be using Robart gear so when I was building the fuse I made modifications to the placement of the rear block since the Robart gear footprint is shorter than the kit gear).

    Pic 1: Windshield supports with groove created (a little wavy on the groove since I did it by hand but it will covered up later)
    Pic 2: Hole drilled into the root rib/cabin top
    Pic 3: landing gear blocks
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  15. #2190
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Now the part I've been waiting for, assembling the fuse. It's now starting to feel like I'm going to have a new plane one day. I'll be using a take on cubman's fuse modifications for the opening door/window. F5 will be installed but I've cut the header from the legs just below the header and tacked them back together with CA. The legs will be removed later once the rest of the fuse and support wires are installed. F6 will be omitted. F7 will be installed as stock. The right side of the fuse was easy. I just pinned the fuse side and the rootrib/cabin top to the plans and epoxyed the header of F5 and all of F7 to the fuse side. I tacked the legs of F5 with CA as they'll need to be removed later. I used several squares to make sure they were correctly aligned. The left side of the fuse required a little more attention to make sure it would be correctly positioned and square since this side can't be pinned to the plans. Since I couldn't pin them to the plans I carefully measured several times them marked the locations of the formers on the left fuse side. Once I knew where everything should be placed I glued them in place like I did for the right side. I used squares again along the bottom and the front to ensure left was aligned to the right.

    Pic 1: Pieces ready for assembly
    Pic 2: installing F5
    Pic 3: left sided on with glue drying
    Pic 4: another pic of the left side installed.
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  16. #2191

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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I'm missing something here.

    Now that you've got the root ribs attached to the cabin top, along with those routered pieces attached to the bottom of the ribs, how will you get the wire in there?

    What didn't I catch? Maybe it just looks like everything is already glued?

  17. #2192
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    ORIGINAL: do335a

    I'm missing something here.

    Now that you've got the root ribs attached to the cabin top, along with those routered pieces attached to the bottom of the ribs, how will you get the wire in there?

    What didn't I catch? Maybe it just looks like everything is already glued?
    There is a hole that I drilled in the rootrib/cabin top that about an inch of the music wire fits into. The wire is straight and I won't have to bend the wire at the top of the fuse. It'll need to be bent to fit into the slot in the nose piece. The window supports and nose pieces that the wires will go into at the bottom are not yet glued up. I hope these pics help.

    Pic 1: The window support dry fit into the slot in the rootrib/cabin top piece with the hole visable
    Pic 2: The wire fit into the hole with the window support next to it
    Pic 3: The wire fit into place with the window support and nose piece laying next to it.
    Pic 4: The wire in place with the window support dry fit into place. The nose piece that will be glued to the front of the cabin where the wire will fit down in the slot
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  18. #2193
    SunDevilPilot's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    Looking really good Neddy! You are almost past the hard part of the modification process.

    SunDevilPilot
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  19. #2194
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    The nose pieces and firewall are the part of this build I'm not looking forward to. I'm going to have to be very careful to get the firewall installed straight and I'm a bit worried about getting both of the support wires bent correctly and fit into the slot of the nosepiece.

  20. #2195
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    You seem to have made it this far with ease, I have no worries you will walk right through the process.

    Just FYI, when I crashed my 1/4 Cub there was absolutely no damage to the upper cabin. The plane hit the ground at about 40-45 miles per hour at about 20 degrees down angle. The impact folded the wings forward and down but the cabin held strong. The struts bent due to the impact. I believe my design / modification is sound!

    The only difference between yours and mine is the plywood sides on my fuselage are one piece. Because I made a Super Cub I did not need the nose section to taper inwards just forwards of the windshield so I cut new plywood pieces for the sides.

    Keep going!

    SunDevilPilot
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    Cub Brotherhood # 47

  21. #2196
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I liked they way you built your fuse and it seems to be going together nicely. The only issue between your super cub and the J3 I'm building that I've been thinking about is the wing bolts inside the cabin. The rearone will be easily accessible but the forward one will be blocked if I build the center section where the window is the whole depth of the wing root like the original plans call for. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to address that, at this point I'm thinking of just making the tunnel under the window fairly short. Once I get the nosepiece on I'm planning on epoxying a piece of fiberglass tape over the fuse/nosepiece joint to help strengthening it. The next task is getting the landing gear blocks in place which I hope to get done tonight. Next take will be the nosepiece, firewall and wires. Hope to get to that tomorrow but I'm in no hurry with this build so if I don't it'll be fine.

  22. #2197
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    OK Cub lovers here are some pics for you.

    A guy at the club brought his new Carbon Cub out today. It has a 168" span and I believe it is powered with a DA150. It flew great and looked very impressive in the air. The plane appears to be very well built and the covering job was very nice.
    Later!!
    Anthony
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    WACO Brother #30 Cub Brother #17
    It's not the hours you put in It's what you put into the hours.

  23. #2198

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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build


    ORIGINAL: Neddy191

    ORIGINAL: do335a

    I'm missing something here.

    Now that you've got the root ribs attached to the cabin top, along with those routered pieces attached to the bottom of the ribs, how will you get the wire in there?

    What didn't I catch? Maybe it just looks like everything is already glued?
    There is a hole that I drilled in the rootrib/cabin top that about an inch of the music wire fits into. The wire is straight and I won't have to bend the wire at the top of the fuse. It'll need to be bent to fit into the slot in the nose piece. The window supports and nose pieces that the wires will go into at the bottom are not yet glued up. I hope these pics help.

    Pic 1: The window support dry fit into the slot in the rootrib/cabin top piece with the hole visable
    Pic 2: The wire fit into the hole with the window support next to it
    Pic 3: The wire fit into place with the window support and nose piece laying next to it.
    Pic 4: The wire in place with the window support dry fit into place. The nose piece that will be glued to the front of the cabin where the wire will fit down in the slot
    Thanks. I get it now. Makes sense. I thought that the wire ran along the bottom of the rib and then down the front window frame. My mistake.

    There's nothing like a pic or two to resolve confusion.

  24. #2199

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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    When I did my Sig 1/4 clipped wing Cub many, many years ago, I built it per the plans and instruction book.

    The front fuse section and the suppert wires to the front wing hold down in the cabin were extrememly easy to do accurately. The way you are adding the extra support wires should not present any problsms or increased difficulty.

    The biggest problem I had was that the building seemed to go on forever. And once forever arrived, there was still about an eternity's worth of stuff to do. l Just kept moving along a bit at a time. Folowing that, I built the Sig floats. Only took one weekend. It was all worth it in the end.

  25. #2200
    Neddy191's Avatar
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    RE: Sig 1/4scale C/W Cub build

    I'm modifying the fuse to make sure to have plenty of structural support for an opening door and window on the right side of the fuse. I'm also leaving out the middle cabin former to open the cabin up a bit.


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