rkrider

Understand that the Kougar handles the wind well. Got plenty of that where I'm flying, so looking into building one. From what I can gather from reading threads, the part shapes are marked and need to be cut out. Are these all balsa so an exacto knife can be used, or are there some ply, so a scroll saw would be needed. Also how does the plastic turtle deck and cowl hold up and has anyone ever tried to cover them with film ( I hate to paint) Thanks

Steve

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Exacto will work for the fuselage. Cut just outside the lines, then sand down to them with a block. Perfect !

rkrider

Thanks, I was concerned about curved ply shapes.

Nice job on your'e Kougar finish !

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

The only plywood in this model is the die-cut fuselage formers and firewall and the wing hold down plates.

You can use an X-Acto knife to cut the parts out, but stand by for some SERIOUS tedium. I borrowed a pal's fretsaw; knocked that chore out in jig time.

I'm in the final stages of finishing up one of these, so its still fresh in my mind if you have any questions. Perhaps Faye Stilley could cover the turtle deck with film, but we mere mortals? Forget it; its too thin of a plastic. The cowl would be problematic as well.

You can replace these parts with wood fabrication; I considered it, because painting isn't my favorite chore either. But I did it anyway, using UltraPaint. It was quick and easy, especially if you go with a simple color scheme. I'm replicating the box top, which is a bit of a challenge in some areas.

Next thread has a few pics for you. This is a fun airplane to build. It was my first foam wing, and that's a bit dicey until you get the hang of it. The only real hassle was fitting the vertical fin to the turtle deck; lots of trial and error there. But overall a very satisfying project.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Here ya go...

rkrider

Nice Job !

I've built several sport kits, but this will be my first foam wing. I've avoided anything with plastic because of cracking and that painting thing. Just heard too many good things about this plane to let that stand in the way.


Not familar with "fretsaw" some kind of scroll or band saw ?


What brand of covering are you using ? I've heard that aluminum/silver can be a problem with some.


What are you planning for power ?


Thanks

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

A fretsaw is a souped-up scroll saw for cabinet makers. It is designed to cut thin veneers without splitting or tearing the wood; works great on balsa.

I'm a firm believer in UltraCote. My covering jobs improved dramatically when I switched from MonoKote. Getting good results with that stuff is a black art; some do wonderful work with it, but that eludes me. The matching UltraPaint paint works well; there were some complaints about it taking forever to dry, but I bought five cans of it for this project and have been very satisfied with it. So it would appear that Horizon has gotten those issues sorted out.

The silver UltraPaint did take three coats before it "layered out" (became a uniform color). As for the silver UltraCote, it went on with the same ease and excellent results that the regular opaques have always given me. Personally, I think a lot of folks are unhappy with their finish because they don't sand enough. I go down to 600 grit on bare wood, and could go some more, but I hate sanding more than I hate painting.

I got the wing and fuselage sides right on this one; the silver looks painted on. BTW, a sheeted wing is TEN times easier to cover than a built-up framework. Those compound-curve wing tips are a challenge to cover without any wrinkles, but if you do it in steps and use super-high heat for your final pass, it comes out good. Another reason I like UltraCote; small wrinkles will flatten out with very high heat. Small wrinkles in MonoKote stay that way.

I'll be using a well-worn OS 40 SF; lots of caveats in other threads about the evils of overpowering this model. I wanted to use a four stroke, but it just wouldn't look right, I think. I am going to try something different, though; I got a tongue muffler from Leonard Neumann at Stuka Stunt Works. The control line guys use these and swear by them. I just couldn't see hanging a big old can off this sleek little airplane.

rkrider

Neighbor down the street does quite a bit of wood working, no fretsaw, but I think he has scroll saw. May give that a try if the Exacto knife doesn't work out.

I too am leaning towards using only Ultracote. I've bounced between the two, but after the problem I had with the last roll of white Monokote, I think am through with it. I order alot from Tower, because my LHS is an hours drive down the road and seem to be catering to the arf boys. Monokote was just more convenient to get.


Flat surfaces (for me) are much eaiser to cover with Ultracote. Monokote worked better on open bays. Try to reposition Monokote and you leave the color behind. Small quanties tend to roll up tight and which side is the adhesive are other fun traits of MonoKote. Covering is not my favorite thing, so I need to make it as pain free as possible.

Not familar with the "tongue" muffler. Thinking of using one of my TT.46 pros or maybe trying the magnum .52 2s. Got burned and treated poorly by OS when they had a liner peeling issue a few years back. Never went back.

JimInCA

I would recommend replacing the plastic turtle deck with a balsa former and sheeting duplicate. This is what I did on the last Kougher I build. The plastic seemed to be too flimsy to me.
As for covering the plastic cowling with film, I tried to do this, and sense my name isn't Faye Stilley results were so-so. But if you take your time, you should be able to do it. The plastic cowl is think enough to take the heat and stress to stretching the film.

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rkrider

I'll just have to decide how to deal with the plastic when I get the kit. This kit will quite different from what I'm used to, with the foam wing, printed parts and all the plastic. Should be interesting.

GarySS

My Feedback: (13)

Email me if you would like to buy a Kougar balsa turtle deck from my wrecked bird. It was about the only thing that survived. Just a thought, if you don't want to paint the kit's plastic.
GarySS

CafeenMan

rkrider - If I were you I would glass the whole plane. It's a great kit to learn how to apply fiberglass on. It's mostly flat and wings aren't difficult. Then when you're done glassing, prime the fuselage and sand it ready to paint. Wet sand the entire turtledeck with 400 paper and then glue it on. You can paint the plastic directly without primer if you want or you can prime it. Just test some scrap plastic to ensure the paint or primer doesn't melt it.

Before you paint the plane you can build a small fillet around the turtledeck to make it look nicer. You can either use slow epoxy by itself and create the fillet with q-tips and alcohol or use epoxy and microballoons.

The Kougar is an excellent airplane. I wish they made an all wood version though.

kdheath

Here you go:

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

kdheath,

I'm curious as to how "messy" these things are. Mr. Neumann swears it is cleaner than a regular muffler (less residue on the plane).

I'm just having a bit of trouble grasping that. Still, even if it is "messy", it will be worth not having that huge can hanging out there.

Thanks for the pic. Mine is still in the box with the engine; I haven't installed any gear into the model yet. Everything is already fitted, though; just a matter of plug'n'play I just finished up the trim work and installed the ailerons last night. Still got to do decals, final fuel-proofing, the cockpit/canopy, and plug in everything.

rkrider

CafeenMan- I'm not really setup to do much painting, besides it's not something I enjoy and we do this for fun, right ? The Kougar is a little "chubby" already, so wouldn't glassing make it worse ? I agree that it would be a good plane to learn on with the sheeted wing and all.


I read somewhere that someone thought that the Kougar plastic was a little tougher than most. If that's the case, I ought to be able to apply a simple paint scheme.


Btw- cool web site !

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

You'll spend more time fitting the turtledeck to the fuselage and vertical fin, and cutting and fitting the cowl to the engine/fuse front, than you will painting them.

The two plastic parts (four if you install the gear covers) on this model are about the easiest-to-paint plastic cosmetic accessories I've seen on a wood kit. It is really a no-brainer, Steve. Go ahead and get your kit and jump on that puppy.

I agree that glassing and painting this model will add quite a bit of unwanted weight, not to mention much extra time and effort.

It will handle that weight, I'm sure. But the only advantage this kind of finish gives is one of durability. A glass/painted finish is as tough and as long-lasting as it gets.

One must take a bit more time with a plastic film finish, such as fuel-proofing all the seams (MAJOR tedium, but worth the effort), to ensure durability. But it can be done. The advantages of film over glass/paint are many. Understand that I'm not saying glass/paint is no good; quite the contrary. It just is a LOT more complicated to do, and adds weight.

I haven't weighed mine yet, but my "calibrated hands" tell me it will be around five pounds; about perfect for a typical 40 size engine. One of the main claims about this model is the washed-out wing that allows floater landings and other docile handling aspects. You add weight, you degrade that capability.

Anyway... get one and start building.

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

I put the OS 50 on mine. I think a 40 isn't enough. 60's are too heavy and don't rev high enough. The 50 took 1/2 oz of lead in the tail. But if any 40 would work, that SF is the one. They scream !! I built mine back in the early 90's when the Patriots were popular. They zigged so I zagged. The new OS 50 can rev really high. That is what I would suggest.

Oh, the 50 spun a 10X8 and screamed. I considered a 10X9

CafeenMan

I agree that if you don't enjoy doing something and you don't have to do it then you shouldn't. But if you choose to glass and paint then it should not weigh more than monokote if you do it right. People who end up with heavy paint jobs need to discover sandpaper.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Barney,

Agreed, the 50 FSR is a hot motor. But its a bit heavy, yes? Dunno know about the newer 50SX, weight-wise.

I put a 50 FSR on my first Super Kaos 40- which is a very comparable airplane to the Kougar. I needed a good four or five ounces of tail weight to balance that thing out.

At any rate, I'm not looking for a rocket here. I built this model because I wanted to have something that I built and finished, as opposed to assembled. I've been doing ARFs for the past couple of years, and it was time to get back into building. The last three kits I built were all Great Planes, and somewhat disappointing due to really crappy wood. They flew well, but were a PITA to build and finish, and sort of turned me off of kits for a while. All I want is a good, relaxing sport flyer that will be unique at the field. Practically all of the sport flyers in my club are ARFers. All the builders are into big scale iron, warbirds, etc. The Kougar was a good, simple return to kit building for me, and will bring some nice variety; and will be different. Right now, at my field there are two other CG Ultimates (which is my main flyer lately), no less than five Funtana 90s; three or four UCDs, both sizes, and a half-dozen SEs. On certain Sundays you have to double check before launching to make sure there isn't another plane just like yours already aloft.

bayareajeff

Steve,
I finished this kit not too long ago after many years out of RC flying. I had no problems at all. There were no problems cutting the parts you are talking about. All my friends wanted me to get an ARF to get in the air, but I enjoyed building it.
I used balsa block to shape the turtle deck because I didn't want to hassle the plastic at all. However instead of covering the Kougar with monocoat I ended up covering it with Nelsons covering and painting it with Rattle Can Rustoleum. I then clear coated it only to find out that the Rust' clear was not fuel proof at all. I ended up using nelson's Cleat coat and it went on very easy. Thats another whole story. I would guess mine is a little heavy since I didn't sand a whole lot But it flys great.
I powered mine with an OS 46FX. There are no power problems at all. My recommendations are..
1. replace the plastic T deck so you can cover it. You can make it light
2. Turn the engine on its side.. the angle has the Muffler so that it makes a big mess...
3. make sure the wings are True - Apply the Sheeting on a hard, level surface - Make sure to join them straight
4. Install the radio as you go. After you are finished covering, all you have to do is reinstall the servos with out a lot of hanger Rash
5. Balance it right.. I like just a touch of nose heavy.. Lands nicer.. Mine only took a few ounces in the nose that I used Gaphers tape to install in the Cowl.
6. Have fun..

I tried to load some pics.. but kept getting an error.. Ok.. Pics are in my Gallery if you would like to see.. Can't get them onto here..
Peace,

Jeff - [email protected]

Jollidude

My Feedback: (39)

Jeff,

Nice paint job! Very classy looking!

Cheers!

Jollidude

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Steve,

The 40 SF will be good. The 50SX doesn't wiegh that much more, it is in the 46 case now. I needed 1/2 oz in the tail. I just bought the 50 SX for the Bonanza and the darn thing is about 160 bucks !! So if the 40 makes you happy you will save a ton of cash.
Here is a pic of the Bonanza wing, it is foam and sheeted just like the Koug. But it does have flaps.

Oh one other thing that I should have mentioned. Well, its really too late now, but the landing gear blocks are the weak link on the Koug. ON the Banana I inserted ply false ribs. Check out the washout in this wing !

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

<<The 50SX... is in the 46 case now...>>

Interesting.

You putting retracts in that Bonanza?

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

No retracts. I fly off grass, pretty rough at times. The Banana is going to be a touch and go bird, so I want it to be durable.

terryhg

I am trying to balance my Sig Kougar. I am using a "Great Planes C.G.MACHINE Precision Aircraft Balancer" so I need to know how far to set the scale (in inches) on the balancer. This is done, of course, with the plane upside down on the balancer. Note: This balancer measures
from the leading edge of the wing.




Thank You Terry