dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

Has anybody here built one of these kits? I just purchased one on RCU and would like to get any hints or tips that I can before I begin building. The main thing that bothers me is the method they use to build the wings. The instructions say to start by pinning the bottom sheeting to the building board and building the wing up from there. This seems very awkward and that keeping everything straight will be extremely difficult. I'm considering using the standard(?) method of building the wing and then sheeting it, but would like to hear from others that have experience with this plane first.
I'm also looking for any modification and engine recommendations. It's a 48" span low wing trike and it looks like I'll be beefing up the wire landing gear mounting points, as the plans show only 1/4" ply mounts between reinforced wing ribs. Luckily, the mains are located close to (if not at) the CoG, so additional weight here should have minimal effect. Also thought about converting to a tail dragger, but since the rudder is located totally above the fuse and HStab and the push rod has a non-conventional bent routing,(calls for nyrod), I think the tail wheel is going to wait until I have some major dings to repair (I know it'll happen, just don't know when[8D])

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I have no experience with this particular kit, however, I have built one of John's Twin Air kits. Very good quality kits, well detailed etc. When I first read how to build the wing I remember saying to myself "that is unique" after completing the wing I was very impressed. It is a great way to build a straight wing. I recommend you try it. If you really think about the build compared to a more commercialized kit, some with QC problems , the build process is great and well thought out. It certainly is different compared to what most of us are used to though. My experience with the NE kit, great build awesome experience.
Enjoy

Steve

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

I also built a NE-A Twin Air. I understand that the wing design on the twin is virtually identical to the single-engine sport version, which is a bigger plane than yours. But I bet the wing design is the same on all of them.

I've been told by several folks that have flown R/C for many years that the NE-A wing design has been around for a long, long while and that it was very popular before ARFs came along. But evidently the company never chose to package the design as an ARF, and as we all know ARFs have pretty much taken over the "small sport plane" market.

John has introduced quite a few changes in the company- laser cutting, innovative designs etc., marrying what has worked well with new ideas. The Twin-Air for, example, has become the most recommended "first" sport twin airplane on the market.

The bottom line- build the wing as per the instructions and I'm sure that you will be very happy with the results!

Walt

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

Thanks for the advice, guys. I started on the left wing half last night and was surprised at how well it went together. This build method actually solved what would have been a major problem in a conventionally built wing. The leading edge looked like it was part snake, but by having the wing already sheeted on the bottom, I was able to pull the soft balsa LE straight without pulling the ribs off the building board. I still have to sheet the top of the wing, so it's still attached to the board and I can't tell if it'll all stay straight, but my confidence is high that it will. Will post later to let you know.

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

Do you know how old your kit is? The lumber in my NE-A kit was all top-quality and straight as an arrow! If you have any other parts that are not good quality (or missing) give John a call. I am sure that he will be willing to help you out even though you bought it second-hand, or even if your kit is an older one. He is one of "the good guys".

Hughes500E

My Feedback: (16)

I agree, the quality of balsa in my Twin Air kit has yet to be matched. Very good quality kits!
Glad to hear you built it according to the instructions

scalebldr

My Feedback: (7)

I have built many of the ne kits and build them per the intructions.they use what is called a d tube type of contruction that when done right yeilds a warp free straight and strong wing.once you add the shear webs and sheet the top wing and let it dry completely before removing it the wing will be locked into shape and will not warp.they fly as good as they build.do not try and over power it as they are fine with the specified engine especially now with todays engines.

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

The wings came out straight as an arrow! So far, the one LE is the only part that was warped. I guess it must have been on the outside of the bundle. I haven't joined the halves together, yet as I installed one of the torque rod holders upside down and haven't figured out how I'm going to solve the problem. Will my heat gun loosen the epoxy? other than that, they seem to line up perfectly.
I've started the fuse (I can't believe how fast this builds!). My plans seem to have shrunk a little, as the fuse sides are about 3/16" longer than the plans show, but I've worked around that by aligning the front. Everything from the wing saddle forward lines up. The two bulkheads towards the tail needed to be moved back slightly from the plans. That brings up the next "problem" I've encountered. I was very careful to bring both sides of the fuse in equally when I installed these and the tailpost, but when I lifted the fuse off the plans it "sprung" a little, meaning that the tail curves slightly. It's quite minor and will be corrected during sheeting, but I'm not 100% sure of how to keep it all square and straight while I put the sheeting on. I'm thinking of blocking it in place with weights. Are there any other "tried and true" methods?

Rick Lindsey

I don't have any build advice, but was wondering if this kit is still in production? I was unable to find a reference to it at the NE Aero website...

-Rick

Build-n-flyer-RCU

My Feedback: (4)

I believe that John thinned out slow-sellers from his kit lineup sometime during the past year and the .25 Sport-Air may not be marketed anymore. He has been very busy trying to cut Twin-Air kits fast enough to keep them in stock and he is eager to release his new Zeph-Air and Duel-Air 2/60.

But if you look at his "specials" page he does sell the plans and rib sets for the .25 Sport Air, so he is still supporting the plane. If you really wanted a full kit you would have to give him a call to see what he could do.

Dredhea, if its only out a little you can probably just pin the fuse back on the plans before gluing on the sheeting. If its out a lot then cut and re-glue to get it straight. Easy to do now, hard to do later. Once you have some sheeting on it the fuse should be solid and straight. I don't like blocks because they can move without you realizing it. But I've used clamps, rubber bands, anything that it takes to hold things in place.

Walt

dredhea

My Feedback: (13)

I decided to go the "extra mile" and did the cut and reglue. I know that my joints were good as I ended up making new F4 and F5 bulkheads as the originals were destroyed getting them out. I'm glad to say that everything stayed straight this time. I don't really know what happened the first time. I think that this is going to be a great flying plane, and I'm very impressed with the quality of the kit. I don't know how old it is, but the one leading edge was the only part I've had any problem with, so the warps were probably caused by sitting around. I plan on using a .25 two stroke for power, but am looking for make/model recommendations. I really don't want to put a lot of money into an engine, as I have other planes cutting into the RC budget, and since I'm a newbie and intend for this plane to be my low wing trainer, it's going to see some abuse.
I'm sure that it's a good airframe for this purpose. I think I could hit it with a hammer without breaking it. It looks and feels stronger than my PT40, especially in the front half of the fuse. I also decided that the mounting system for the main gear will take a lot more abuse than I first thought by looking at the plans, so I left it alone.
I would like to hear from anybody that is familiar with this particular plane and has converted it to a tail dragger, though. I plan to start with the trike gear, but I would like to know now, before I totally close up the fuse, if there are any modifications I should include to make the conversion easier when the time comes. I'm concerned with things like reinforceing the mounting point, adding steering capabilty to the tail wheel and being able to easily adjust the CG .