Redwulf__34

Hey Dio,
Is that the old Red Box version? I'm trying to finish mine......started in the 80's! I'm stuck on the muffler system.......I don't want the big dog hanging out the side! I'm planning on a Supre Tigre 61.

Sean

Riddle4U

Consider me inspired Bacchus! Yup..that'd be the ol' Doll. Hope mine looks as good; I think it'll be fine. I just like the idea of 300 flights, but a thow is even better! One question...in the manual it isn't clear whether you are intended to sand all the balsa flush to the firewall before adding the nose blocks. What'd you do? That is about where I am on this thing (in other words getting pretty close to done if I "jam on it".

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

No,there is abig difference between the Gold and theRed Box version. Just for kicks here is a picture of my Red Box P-51 I converted to the D, this was WAY back in the early 80's, had a K&B .61 side mounted. I was not concered with the muffler since I considered it very far off scale and it was a sport plane. One word of caution, make sure you sand an airfoil shape to the elevator and make the pushrod very secure, mine had elevator flutter coming out of a loop at full power!


Glad to help! The manual and plans do show an overlap of former F1A, but I just sanded everything flush to it and then added the nose blocks. You mightfind that the nose blocksare not thick enough, soglue on some extra balsa before you proceed. Jam on it dude and get that thing in the air!

warks62

My Feedback: (140)

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Redwulf__34

Hey Dio,
Thanks for the word of wisdome. But its too late on the elevator.....she is covered and painted. What's should I expect without it? I know it's not scale. I'm just going to try and get it finished up and get some time. Then work toward an 84" 109.

Sean

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

great looking plane.

Riddle4U

I fly any and all...this is the 1/7th TF Mustang page. I would hope we all try to stay on topic a bit on threads...it isn't my duty, but really all of ours to police ourselves. So hounding for a Corsair cockpit is clearly off (and many know, I love the Corsair).

Sean, that sure looks not to be the current TF Stang...I guess that is what the old "Red box" or earlier looks like? You did a super job it looks like, but the design seems simpified in scale features compared to the Gold Edition (I guess you'd say)? Good execution. I have the label from a box for those older TF's! The artwork sure was compelling (B model I think).

Happy Thanksgiving all!

Redwulf__34

Hi Riddle,
Yes it's the old Red Box. Much simplified. My hope is to get it finished and get some "current" time so that I can move up to either a large 109 or maybe even the Gold Edition 51. I've been watching this thread for two years maybe. I've loved watching it. You guys intimidate me! I thought I was an ok builder.....no way I can match any of the skills I've witnessed here!

Hope my "older version" mustang isn't too far off topic. Was only looking for a little pre-flight advice from dio. Hate to smash her up before I enjoy her! I built it in the 80's when I was 13 or so. Just never finished it up.

Happy Thanksgiving!
Sean

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

ok I'm pulling out of this thread to allow dionysus-bacchus his privacy and in the hope that you guys enjoy his wealth of knowledge and skill in the world of scale rc planes.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Making another wing, with retracts, for my TF P-51 is one of my winter "refurbishment" projects. (I flew it all summer with fixed gear, and really enjoyed it. The factory supplied retracts were junk, and they kept folding up, so I pinned them and filled in the wheel wells.)

I'm using Robart 609HD mechanicals. These are the 85 degree ones with 3/16 struts. I found that the Mustang struts fit right into them, and the flat on the top of the struts lines up with the set screw in the retract. The 3/16" Great Planes axle set also lines up with the flat ground in the bottom of the TF strut, at the correct spot so that the wheel gets centered in the well. I used Sullivan 3.5" skylite wheels, and they fit the wells without binding. It was necessary to put an "L" bend into the pushrods so that they would line up with the 2-56 threaded holes in the robart activation tubes. The Robarts are a touch wider than the TF units, so I took a little material off the forward gear block in each wing half.

I found out on the first wing (with the fixed gear) that the gear blocks are not glued in very well, so I show here how I opened up the wing on the bottom, and go in along the entire length of both blocks with a mixture of epoxy and milled fiberglass to fillet them in place, against the LE and the shear web.

Riddle4U

I fly any and all, I don't know...yer fine, just be easy. I suppose if Bachus wants to post..then I also hope for his input along with others. It certainly is not my place to defend, but he does bring some nice input to RCU!? -Eric

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

Ipicked up a 4 blade scale prop for the top flite mustang at a swap meet.
might make one out of glass and resin and static test on a electric motor!
See if she blows up or not.

rye

My Feedback: (10)

very nice, i did one in the gunfighter would love to do another ,rye

Riddle4U

Yea...I got to say, I have the static prop too. It looks nice. Don't be getting any silly ideas about flying that prop. It seems these same lessons need going over at least once a decade. Foget about it! It isn't even important.. It is a friken static prop. You only need to learn what a good flying prop is first! Not sure you do (maybe). Two blade is the way to go if you are flying it. Nuff said. Please don't expose people to your experimental propellor.....! Please?

Redwulf__34

Amen.

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

I wont expose anyone to a potentially explosive and deadly prop I for my own interest "might or might not" make a fiberglass duplicate of it and try the "duplicate" on a electric motor at various speeds while encased in plexiglass with me hiding behind a cement wall.

none the less this is all talk and I'll probably sit on my lazy butt. LOL

Riddle4U

Nothing personal...I just think these propellor ideas come up now and again; and they are VERY dangerous! Our wooden or composite two bladers are dangerous enough whether attached to a seemingly quiet and "safe" electric motor, or a screaming two-cycle engine (the engine is probably safer in reality). I just say, give up the idea. Paint up your static prop like I intend to do...and enjoy the looks while it is sitting. Then, when you want to fly, do the right thing. You can't see the prop when it is spinning anyway so who cares about a "scale flying prop" anyway? Your original thought sounded like a sure way to enter the hallowed halls of previous Darwin Award winners! Best regards, Eric

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

The idea originated from: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10...m.htm#10080258
This guy Jaka has had great success with home made composite props, but unless made by a experienced individual (or by a machinist such as myself) they can be potentially lethal.

stevenmax50

My Feedback: (1)

I got myself the TF 1/7th Gold edition P51 for xmas. I had knee replacement surgury back on the 16th so I have done nothing more than read the instruction book. The section on installing retract wheel wells leaves it up to the builder to decide things like materiel and instalation technique. The pics from Mustang Fever look really nice. Could you enlighten me on that wheel well? It looks pre-fab. Where can I get a pair?

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

just for laughs
How about drop off retacts and an o.s. 1.60 or 1.20 two stroke up front and let her go like a reno racer!!!

Riddle4U

You have just days I fly any-and-all....to quit smoking the wampum before New Years Day! Just teasing! ;-) But seriously..

I-fly-any-and-all

My Feedback: (1)

yes I know too much power in a "plane that lacks significant size" does leave a largly plauisble margin for said aircraft to become overly sensitive and more but enough of me.

capriman

I have this kit that I bought in Jan of 1994 and all the parts are die-cut. I have read all 107 pages of this thread, but would like to know if the new kits have laser cut parts or not. Thanks.

Neil

kadet80

Hi all,

I've been reading through the forum, it is a long one!  I'm barely half-way through and going cross eyed from staring at the computer

Anyway, I just started building my 'Stang about a week ago.  I've finished the tail feathers, about to move on to the wing.  I plan to use E-flite electric retracts with Robart struts and a Robart tail wheel unit.  I'm not sure what servo to use for the retract itself, any input would be much appreciated.

I'm also toying with the idea of going electric.  I guess my biggest concern is balance, as there doesn't seem to be much room in front of the CG for a battery.  I plan on removing the wing for batter access since I don't feel like engineering a battery hatch into the top.  I'm not sure what motor/ESC/battery/prop to use, any advice there would be much appreciated.  Like I said, I'm not even half-way through the forum yet, so please forgive me if this has already been covered.

kadet80

zope_pope

For those of you who want to condense the thread, I'd be happy to edit my first post and add all the tips, etc.

I unfortunately have not made it back to my build, and am not sure when I will be able too. the plane sits around collecting dust at the moment. The economy has hit me hard, and I just don't have a suitable place to build anymore. I haven't done any RC in over a year in fact. Anyhow, let me know how I can help. I'd love this to be the definitive guide for the TF 1/7 P51. I hope I can make it back soon.