asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

plumber,
I have thought this through and I think you could do it if you notched the ribs deeper to lower the gear mount rails down into the wing more. Down far enough so the retract cylinder hits the under side of the top. This step should gain you about 1/8" of an inch if you use the robart 605HDs and a lot more room for your doors.

pauluk2w

My Feedback: (7)

Jason you a right but sometimes they leave their earthly gravity and take to the heavens then decide they would rather be underground like a Gopher than fly like a homesick angel. Your P-51 looks great and I cannot wait to see it when you decide it is time for it's maiden flight. I am so happy that Top-Flite did a better job with the setup for retracts on the T-34 that you have been building for me. But functional gear doors or not your P-51 looks awesome

bull51

asphalt,

Thanks again for the advice. I'm sure I'll get it out. I'm just dissapointed that, even with all of the precautions, it still twisted on me. Anyway, here are some pics:

In these pics you cans see the aileron servo mounts and the method I plan to use in odrer to get the servo extentions to the center of the wing ( string and paper tube )

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

You can still do this step you won't be sorry if you do it just use some balsa 45 degree gussets and CA them in. Looks great though press on bull.

bull51

Here you can see that I have already installed some support along the LE. Also, you can see that there are two plywood gear doublers instead of one. The second one extends between the spars. I will do more as sonn as I finish sheeting the bottom of the wing.

zope_pope

Holy Crap. I am a slacker. Look at you guys. I am still working on the retracts!!!!! Hope to have some updates soon.

Adam

PaStang

bull those wings look great , i should be getting to mine sometime this week , I hope.

bull51

PaStang,

Thanks. Damn near choked myself with CA fumes, but all is well so far. I think I'll go with the alaphatic resin for the rest of the sheeting. Boy, I sure hope she flies. I plan on putting a YS 110 in the nose, that is if I can find one.

Good luck with your wing. Be patient with it.

bull

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

I see you over looked something Bull see photo below. Cut the two colored lines just long enough to go from the retract bay to the center. Keep about 4"-5" hanging out from the center and tape all the ends so no crap gets in them. Save the rest you will need it later.

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

HEY GUYS ABOUT THAT CENTER AILERON SERVO SEE PIC!

bull51

asphalt,

Thanks for the compliments. I wish I could take credit for everything, but most of it I learned here. The string Idea I got by putting my u-can do 3d ep together. I had not forgotten about the air lines, but still had not decided how to run them, thanks for the tips.

jamie_duff

Looking great Bull

You're ahead of me now, as I'm lazy and got distracted with the P-47 and a Mossie that's winking at me..............dear oh dear!

Asphalt - You're absolutely right! I missed cursing at balsawood so much when I was unable to build. Lifes just not the same when I'm not "sorting out all the mfg's screw-ups"
One of these silly male self-satisfaction mechanisms me-thinks!!!

the-plumber

Okey doke.

I'll scurry off to the Robart site and nab the 605 drawings, and see how they sort out against the TF plans (if at all).

If truth be known, it's not so much the Robarts I'm agonizing over, it's implementing scale A-36 dive brakes.

jamie_duff

Good evening my American friends

FINALLY got some motivation to get moving again. I've ditched the concealed linkage idea. I've decided that its more trouble than its worth and I'd much rather have a maintainable model rather than a model without linkages on show. I like Bull's paper? tubes. I think I'll steal that idea if he doesn't mind too much....

And Asphalt, I've heeded your advice on beefing up the rib-spar and rib-leading each joints, plus the retract rail to rib joints. Sure hope I don't break it. I plastered my P-47 in talc earlier. Need to leave that a few days to do it's stuff......

Has anyone looked at [link=http://www.soloprops.com/]Solo Props[/link] before? I'm quite tempted, mainly because I'm stupid

With the geared down RCV 120 I may just be able to pull off that 18" four blader with Mustang profile blades..... But then that'll be £450 worth of powerplant.....[X(]

bull51

jamie,


Yes, they are paper tubes. I got the idea from the 1/5 scale TF P-51 kit. The manual included this step. You can look at the manual via Top Flite's web site. Also, I do believe it's been mentioned in this post by asphalt. Don't forget to put strings in to route you servo wires when ready.

bull

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Jamie,
I too like these props and hubs but they would be better suited for a radial engine set-up like a Jug, A-T6 Texan or C-47 Sky Train. The Mustang has such a huge spinner you would never see the fancy hub or be able to get at it easily for pitch adjustments under that spinner. Plus the cost is a bit high for something you can't realy appreciate on this model. But put it on a Jug and I'dd trun my head to snag another look way cool!

zope_pope

Hey any of the original folk that built with me done with their airplanes? If so, flight reports would be awesome!!!

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Actually I never used the paper tube method because the holes in the ribs are large enough to hit with a string tied to a nut for weight. Simply put the nut with string attached in the aileron servo bay hold the wing up-right and it will just fall down to the flap servo bay by gravity easily. From there you can feed to the center with no problem, then tie your servo wire to the string and pull it through.
Hey Bull, I was looking at your wing and I see you pulled it up from the building board before you finished sheeting the whole bottom side. That's never a good idea you must keep it on the building tabs until fully sheeted. For the top side make the sheeting all one piece, one for each side then glue it down and leave it weighted down until dry. I'm sure it will be just fine then. I can tell you about a way to check its straightness when you get it fully sheeted, let me know.

bull51

asphalt,

OK, I'm all ears. I should have it done withing the next few days.

As for removing the wing, I know, shame on me for taking it off the board, but I just had to fly it around the house making airplane noises. I still store it on the jig with plenty of weight in the middle and over the wing tips.


bull

Speedyman

My Feedback: (3)

Bull, Art here and I am in the middle of building the gaint scale TF P-47. The P-51 will be my next project and as far as I can tell from the pic is , the one you are building is the gaint scale P-51 version. Is this correct? I am going to try and read all I can on this forum because I have had some trouble with the kit on the P-47 and I hope there is no really big problems with the P-51. If so I hope to find out before I start. I am seeing some great inputs here and I will try to catch upl I did sheet the complete wing on the P-47 also and use a lot of carbon fiber around the main landing gear rib's area.
Let me know if I am going the right direction with this kit. There seems to be some problems with the kit itself. I have built the smaller ( P-51 ) one but I want to put thei DA-50 in smothing with that new gear reduction drive I have heard so much about.
Thanks again ...
Art.........................

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Speedyman,
Nope sorry Speedyman, Bull and most everyone including myself on this thread is building the 1/7 scale Mustang that's the smaller one. I like the larger gassers and own a few but nothing beats the sound of e fine running Saito .120 4-stroke. I'm sure however most of the ideas you find here are on this thread can be adaptable to the 1/5 larger kit or any kit for that matter good luck with your build. You may be able to find a thread on the build of the larger Mustang. If you don't you could start a new one about your build no doubt many out there are just waiting to put tips and ideas in a forum for that kit. Just a thought.

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Ok Bull,
Here are two ways to check your wing straightness both are simple to do. All you need for the first is a stand for your plane anything that holds the plane level with your wing on. Like a cheap foam cooler with a U shaped cutout at each end. Comes in handy for working on radio set-up too.Now measure the wing tips to the table serface from the spar location make sure they are equal. Without bumping it measure from the LE tip to the table surface then the TE tip to the table surface on one side then record the data. Do the same for the other side and see the difference they should be the same or very close. If not you have a twist. Now the other method: for this step you will need two Robart incidence meters most modelers have one you could borrow another from a friend. I love these things they are a great versatile tool you can use for many things. Now put just the wing back on that stand or box, by the way Robart makes a nice stand just for this kind of stuff and install one meter on one wing tip and one on the other. Now with both slide bars to the rear stand back and eyeball down your wing you should be able to line-up both the bars one over the other perfectly straight. If one is higher or lower that the other you have a twist. When you do this and find that in fact you have a twist let me know all is not lost.
There are ways to fix it but we will worry about that if needed OK.
When you made that airplane noise about the house. What size of engine did you emulate and was it nitro powered or beer powered?

bull51

asphalt,

First of all, I am having so much fun. I just got done laughing about the beer power, but I think it was more Gin than beer, or as my friends call it, Jet-A fuel. I emulated a YS 110. Thought about the real thing, but knew it wouldnt fit. My kid got a kick out of it anyway.

As for the wing, that is a pretty good idea. I have all but the small pieces of the bottom of the wing covered and will check it the first way you described before continuing to the top. If there is a significant twist, I might try to take most of it out prior to sheeting. I'll let you know how the measurements work out.


Speedyman,

Asphalt is right. This thread is about the 1/7 scale. But, if my memory serves me correctly, I read somewhere (maybe the Top flite web site) that the 1/5 scale kit is was blown up from the 1/7 scale, with a few modifications, or vice-versa. If you go to the Top Flite web site you can read both instruction manuals and you will discover that they are very similar. Good luck with your build!

bull51

zope pope,


I agree. Reports from the others would be rather nice. Not to mention I would like to thank them all, and you, of course, for their/your comments, tips and suggestions regarding this kit. I would be delighted to hear how everyone made out.

bull

Speedyman

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the message Bull. I have had so much trouble with the Gaint Scale P-47 TF kit that I was just trying to get some heads up on the Gaint Scale P-51 before I start. You would not believe that "kit Problems" I have had with the P-47. I really like both the P-47 and the P-51 and was looking foward to building the P-51.
Thanks for your input
Keep on building, there is not many of us builders left......
Art.....................