asjwalsh

Has anyone used the TF in-cowl muffler in their Mustang set up? The manual says it should work well in a 2 stroke inverted set up, but I'm looking at the parts and don't see how it can fit in. I put one in my TF Spit and it went in no problem. Thanks,

Andrew

asjwalsh

I guess this thread is dead. I've been referencing it throughout my build.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

I'm still lurking here... I have a TF P-51 kit with the razorback mod. I started to build it but the elevator turned into a potato chip.. has this happened to anyone else? The building board was flat and I kept everything pinned/weighed down but it still curled. I used Titebond II glue - could that have done it??

I have the parts to try again but am a bit hesitant to try if the same thing is going to happen. Has anyone else had this happen to them???

Bob

asjwalsh

I would hesitate to guess its definitely the glue. However, if you left the elevator laying around a while in humid conditions it wouldn't help.
Start again with the modern 'super glues'. They have a variety of drying times from instantaneous to about ten seconds and gave changed this hobby for ever..

aymodeler

My Feedback: (3)

I've never built this particular kit, but I have put together plenty of kits with Titebond II and never had any problems. I do use CA for some things, but tend to use Titebond more than any other glue.

Did the part twist right after coming off the board, or did it take on a twist over time?

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Guys, thanks for the replies.

The part was warped right off the board. It was, as I said earlier, weighted and pinned down to keep it straight. I had used Titebond because I wanted the part to be sandable - which is something you don't get using CA. The sheeting was flat before I applied it, FYI. The spar is tapered, but I had the ends supported. That's why it's such a mystery to me.

I'm not a newbie to building, just this particular kit. If anyone else has any ideas, I'm all ears. Thanks for the replies so far.

Bob

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have had balsa warp with Titebond II and CA both when the humidity is high. I have started weighting my flat surfaces down when gluing them.

Mike

acdii

I have had 3 sets of Cub wings warp while pinned to the board using Titebond. Everything looked nice and straight until I removed the pins, and then each one has a little twist to it. Plane still flies nice, but you can certainly see there is warpage by the set of the aileron at neutral.

stevegauth30

Just my two cents, for what it's worth. First off, I mostly frame and sheet with tite bond II. I find that a lot of guys are using way more than is actually needed. Not saying that that's your case. I've had a couple things warp on me years ago, but since becoming neater and and a little more stingy with the glue, I haven't had any more issues. I did some testing and found it to adhere as good or better with less. i use a disposable acid brush and apply it in a very thin layer. Works well for me anyway.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

acdii, your experience mostly parallels mine... everything was pinned/weighted down. As for the other comments, I was working in my cellar and humidity could have been a factor. It was around the May timeframe and perhaps humidity could have been a factor.

I was also trying to be careful about the weight/amount of glue because of the well-known tendency of warbirds to be tail heavy... but maybe I wasn't, so much. I've got a dehumidifier going right now. It pulls about 2 buckets of water out of the air everyday.

Any other thoughts??? And thanks to everyone who has contribute so far....

Bob

danpos

I have been using the Futaba 3003 and 3004 servos. I am going to re think that and use the 3004 as a minimum. Has anyone had a Futaba 3004 servo fail? I have been using them for three years now in this Mustang without any failure. Flaps and rudder too.

danpos

I recently took the Saito 120S out of my Mustang and replaced it with a Saito 150
It is a very nice combination. It's a rush to fly it.

I now have a second Top Flite Mustang Kit on the workbench. I'm building it as light as I can. I still haven't decided if I'm going to build it as a "B " or "D" ?
I wish I could get a Malcolm Hood.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yd4eqCFOnIQ

danpos

I built this Mustang to be one of my main flyers. So the gear isn't very scale and I am using the stock Saito muffler. But the second one I'm working on will be more scale.
l will use an aftermarket muffler, scale looking oleo's, bigger wheels, and if I can find a Malcolm Hood or a "B" US canopy for a RAF scheme I will fiberglass and air brush it like I did with my Hawker Hurricane.

acdii

I have several years of abuse on my LT-40 which is all 3004 servo equipped. Still working as good as the day they were installed.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Since your first is appears to be a P51-B I would go with a P51-D just for the variety. I prefer to not to have matching airplanes, but that is just my opinion.

danpos

I haven't seen many D schemes that I like as much as a B or C. I am thinking about doing one of these schemes for my second Mustang.

However I do like the Hangar 9 Blue nose. But I might buy that plane?

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have the TF 1/7th scale kit and planned to do the Dopey Okie as the scheme. I just scored another TF Super Tigre manifold (TOPQ7926) with the wardbird in cowl muffler (TOPQ7915). I was considering using a ST .75 with the setup in this plane or in the partially completed .60 size Corsair I got in a trade.

BigTeeEldorado

Flyer!! Good to see a friendly avatar Just got this kit for X-Mas and doing some research before I get started.

If your game..... a co-build would be awesome.

I think most of my focus is on the Landing Gear question. So I would love your feedback. I am wanting to find a reliable recommendation for electric because I have seen too many one wheel or gear up or collapse landings where pneumatic was involved and none so far with electric. Granted the air systems have been around longer but I'm impressed by what I have seen in electric. The trouble is there are very few threads with electric information applied to this kit and the fitment seems to be an issue. The Robart website does have a "Gear Finder" but I think the link refers to the ARF of this model more than the Kit.

Anyway....hope your X-Mas was great and look forward to your input.

Tony

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

BigTee: unless you build really, really light, use a 90 2 stroke minimum. They are under powered even with a 75. Also, get yourself a GYA 430 rudder gyro to help tame that mad left turn on liftoff. I had the ARF and it was right on the money with a 95AX. The Top Flite air/air retracts you're looking at are said to be for both the ARF and the kit. I would conditionally recommend them, the condition being get a large air kit from Sierra Giant, don't use that crappy Robart valve. I've got a P-39 with Sierra retracts and the Sierra valve, and the system has been bullet proof.

woodburner

I've built two TF P-51's for customers, both with E-Flite electric landing gears. I understand they're discontinued, but sets can still be found every now and then. Never a problem, never a complaint.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

I have a set of air up/spring down gear I am going to use. I can't started it right now I have too many projects started I need to finish. (SIGH) So many planes, so little time.

BigTeeEldorado

Great response, love it! To Bob....I want to go with a 20 size gas engine or equivalent but that decision is tabled for now until I figure out the landing gear. I'm not after scale performance and I will put as much up front as I and the setup can manage when that time comes.

Bob and Flyer.....You both are using air systems and as I mentioned, I am afraid of them from what I have witnessed over the years. I never "got" why I would want to use a complicated system like that. Especially when the new electrics seem less complicated, power actuated both up and down to help prevent locked gear issues and less weight. I'm approaching this as I don't know what I don't know so the floor is yours if I am missing something.

Woodburner.....awesome to hear from someone half way around the globe from me!! Do you have a part number so that I could look it up and check out the specs. The issue as I understand it with this model is the thickness of the wing to fit the assembly without damaging the integrity of the wing and also size of the wheel, the gear door, the angle to compensate for dihedral as well as forward rake to help prevent ground loops etc etc etc. Pictures are worth a thousand words

Flyer....mine is a Christmas present from my son so I need to find a place to fit this project for him. I want to do a good job on it so I will take my time and not rush or compromise for a time table. Point being I will probably post here along the way, your input is always welcome.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

With spring down if the air system fails they gear go down and lock so you don't have to worry about leaks.

BigTeeEldorado

Ya I knew that was the type you were talking about. A friend has them in a Bearcat and it jammed somehow a couple weekends ago. He made a beautiful one wheel landing but still scuffed it up and he couldn't even get it open on the ground. I haven't seen him since to find out what it was that caused the jamb. I imagine anything can happen to any setup. All things being equal, to my mind a system that uses power both directions should be less prone to jambs.

If it sounds like I am prejudice towards the electrics I am but also open minded if i don't have all the info. I am hoping for someone who has used them and their experience with installation. Or a solid reason to not use them .......ll my best decisions were someone else's first

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I had spring down/air ups (robart, bought from spring air) in a TF 1/7 P-51 kit, and they were nothing but trouble. Part of the problem was Robart's crummy valves, but I believe gear should be powered both up and down. (Although gravity fall works real well on the F-16)