hipik634

someone can scan the sheets of fillets from the kit, you can print it on a printer and use it for fabricating new ribs, like old school times with plans without kits .... don't be afraid on spars - I had on my kit wrong lengths of spars cause previous owner did it wrong. Use the technique danpos suggested. i used carbon reinforcements on them just to be sure.
i have the autoglo ready - i have to sort out the starting. it gives only 0,6A@5V and it is not as strong as glow driver 1,2V, judging by the glow plug light. it is more a heater that helps not an autoglow system that enables the start. So i have to heat it up with driver and then kill it and switch it to autoglo, then start and go.
danpos: thats exactly what I've been facing
do a new wing from foam with an original balsa center or fix it with balsa, dont mix it ..

danpos

I saved the balsa sheets from the build. So if someone needs a pattern pc for a rebuild let me know.

Dan

BigTeeEldorado

If you are not using a NICD battery on your remote glow, try one. NIMH batteries don't release the energy fast enough for the onboard systems, I only use NICD batteries at the suggestion of Mr McDaniels himself, on all my onboard glow drivers and it does make a difference.

BigTeeEldorado

Little by little

For future reference;

I think the damage could have been less severe or even avoided if I had carried the retract mounting blocks over too the next rib. The fixed gear mounting blocks span three ribs but for some reason the instructions have retracts spanning only two ribs. When I started piecing the damage back together it became more obvious the load was not spread out far enough. Especially since so much of the rib has to be cut away for the electric retracts to fit and the two ribs couldn't handle the load. The inside mount (closest to the spar) could probably work on spanning just two ribs but the outside mounting rail has to at minimum span three.

I'm working on how to rectify that situation!

hipik634

I use lipoly over 5v stabilizer for rx and directly for the glow. Rx gives me the voltage readout.

BigTeeEldorado

LIPO direct to the remote driver control box should work. You should not have to go through all those steps just to drive the glow plug. Hard to diagnose here, just remember its amps not volts that drives your glow. If you route the power through a stabilizer you are probably stepping down those amps.

radfordc

My Feedback: (14)

I used a simple glo heater for an inverted OS 120 four stroke a few years ago. It consisted of a 5000 mah NiMh cell and a toggle switch. When ready to start the engine just turn on the switch. The battery fires the glo plug and stays on for the entire flight. The battery was enough for many flights before needing a recharge. Just be sure to turn off the switch after landing.

http://www.all-battery.com/nimhcsize...k56xoCRSfw_wcB

hipik634

It gives only 0,6A, but rx controllable, so i have mixed it to work only under 50 prc thr.

hipik634

well, after i have burned four glow plugs in a row i figured that something has to be wrong i wired the source for the glow plug driver directly to the lipol battery. but i think, it must have expected 5V BEC regulated input. so i have to rewire that.
so the score now is 7 flights, 7 crashlandings. This time at least the gear and flaps were up so a clear belly landing without damage. The engine was loosing power gradually so I had time to test minimum speed it was much lower, that i expected event without flaps.

BigTeeEldorado

It surprised me too how slow this warbird will fly, It's a good flying plane whenever you get the kinks worked out.

I'm finishing up the rebuild on mine and hoping to put it back up within a week or two. I ended up sending the radio back after doing some testing. All I can hope is they actually find something. I am also moving everything around in the plane. I relocated the Rx, the ignition module, antennas, got rid of as many metal pushrods as I could, took it to church and had it blessed, hope I haven't missed anything.

Still finding collateral damage and fixing as I get it ready to re-maiden but overall it should be in better shape than the first maiden.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Those glow plugs are a bit testy when you give them a little bit too much voltage. I use to use a wired glow plug clip and one after getting my first power panel plugged it into the wrong jacks, the element evaporated!

hipik634

mine evaporated mid-air .. the engine went ok for start, few passes, then went to 80% , then 40%, then 10% and then I let it die and dumped it on grass crash landing. This is its 7th crash landing, so lets start counting it as a bomb run or shot down as it is a warbird.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Maybe you switch to a P-47? One of those made it home with 5 engine cylinders shot away! The pilot didn't mention it but I'll bet he had to change his shorts on landing!

acdii

My H9 P-47 survived a roof strike. Not undamaged of course, but wasn't too hard to repair. I just have a couple items to finish and it can fly again. Just have to order a new wing tube, and figure out how to repair the strut where the welds broke. It's a tough bird with how hard it hit the ground.

BigTeeEldorado

Got my radio back and the service guy said NPF so I'll just have to take that leap of faith.

......................to this..........................

hipik634

good fix and good luck for the next start !
I must have had already earned my crash landing badge as I've crashlanded pretty much everything I took in the air lately. But there is an awful weather in here now so no look for the next flight on horizon. Last time I had my mustang almost ready I have found that a flap servo horn was with incorrect teeth so it didn't hold the angle, so I had to scratch the start.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Here you go!

BigTeeEldorado

Finally took the Leap

https://youtu.be/1QnV0GtxMQE


https://youtu.be/1QnV0GtxMQE

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Well done Tony!

hipik634

Nice !
meanwhile the weather in here is awful so at least I had time to think about dying engine and i decided to buy a new piston and cylinder. It might be the cause - when the engine goes hot after short run, it doesnt hold the low rpms and it might be due to its wear. When hot, the tolerances gets bigger and compression lower. The engine is not new and I dont know its age and wear. By this I can rule this out

hipik634

i've opened the engine and it must have had eaten something not quite healthy so i have replaced the piston and insert and after run in, i hope the engine quitting will end ..

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Looks like it does have a little piston damage.

hipik634

well the engine didnt quite survived the break in. crankshaft bearing went through the new piston set.
so I am very unhappy today. Well it might have been the issue even earlier, the engine stopped unexpectedly - if the bearing would be damaged, it might have been the issue from the start ...
thats to buying engine from second hand ...

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

There is always a risk with a used engine. Still if the price is right you can afford to do a little work on them.

acdii

If shopping at a swap meet for an engine, take a plug wrench with you. Remove the plug and spin the engine next to your ear. That should tell you if the bearings are OK. Worry about bearings first, compression second. Not all engines will show decent compression when dry, but they all will make noise if a bearing is worn. So far been lucky, only one of my Saito's needed bearings, and I knew it buying it. Price was right, and bearings were $11.