Mustang1964

Intermidiot,
Is there a tool (beside a tape measure) that can find the center of an object, the the flap, elevator, ribs, regardless of the shape? It seem that I can not find the exact center of elevator or the ribs. I know when I get to building the wings I will need to find the center line on #2 rib. I would like to find it before I put the wing together.

Mustang

mkeigwin

My Feedback: (18)

i think what you are looking for is this tool . i have one and love it . http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXE229&P=0

intermidiot

morning,

well, I have scoured the web... Unfortunately I cannot find a tool like that cause I just have no idea what you would call a tool like that.. But as good fortune may have it, I have decided to design a tool that does just that. I have been thinking about a tool like this since I did my ribs.. I will keep you updated. Also, make sure you DO make that line on your ribs and don't forget the 1/16 of an inch lower line as well. This way when you put in your wing bolt plate you do not have to measure a 1/16 of an inch lower after it is constructed.

Right now the best way is to measure using a ruler in multiple spots including sheeting and then use a straight edge to draw your lines.. You could use this tool for slots and centerlines on ailerons, and elevators, but the ribs and so forth have to be done manually.

[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDMR9&P=7]Goldberg Center Line Marker[/link]

Mustang1964

Intermidiot,
The tool I was thinking about is something like a divider with a third leg. The dividers have a handle in the top of the spring that always stays centered. If there is a way to tap in to that and make the little handle extend straight down. Then there would be a center marker no matter where the two ends where. That is what I was thinking. Or is it impractical? Does that make any sense?
Mustang

Mustang1964

One more question. Are the wings build upside down?

intermidiot

Hello Mustang,

Yes you are building the wings upside down. Be sure to read the entire manual slowly before you start anything. Also, pay close attention to all the pictures.. What you will find is that something you are working on at page 11 is better seen in an image on page 55. That was an example. So make sure you look ahead for the part you are working on and see if you can get a glimpse of it elsewhere before doing anything.

On another note, I got my new camera. How is this for a closeup?

Mustang1964

What a great close up. What kind of camera is it? Maybe I can get Santa to bring me one.
The only thing I have done on the wings is to glue the doublers together. I am dry fitting things and looking and trying to figure things out. Did you do any sheeting before you pulled the wing off the board? I was able to get my line drawn on the No 2 rib. The ribs fit nicely on the spar except for the no 2, it is really loose. Does this seem right? Did you start working on the retracts after you sheeted the top or while the wing was still on the board? I also worked on the fin last night. I was able to get the rough shape in. I was quite suprised and pleased how it turned out. I think I must doing something right. I cough up sticks and blew tooth picks.
Thank you Intermidiot for all of your hard work.
Mustang

intermidiot

I did a lot of research on the camera as I do with everything The camera I chose was better then the sd550 and the powershot A620. However, I did not need all the features of the s80, so I got the Olympus Stylus 800 Digital. Very nice, totally awesome pictures and a huge LCD.. Sweet.. Everyone should get one.. but do not pay more then 350.00 with tax. What I did was get an add from 6th avenue electronics for 338 and then go to circuit city. Not only do they match the price but take off another 10%. I do not need a view finder so if that is important to you.. well do not get this camera.

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_...stylus800.html

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_...us800_pg5.html

http://www.steves-digicams.com/2005_...0_samples.html

Once I got the wings glued together and cut out the flaps I went on to the fuse.. kinda left the wings till I had the fuse perfect, level and all my i's dotted. Then I went back to the wings and set up the retracts, perfected them with the air lines.. etc.. I then sheeted the TOP of the wing. This way when I beefed up the retracts and added my flap servos and such I was able to epoxy without it dripping out the top of the wings.. and so on.. I sanded the CLE and made sure that the fit was perfect for the fuse. ( a good reason to sheet the top of the wing ) many many many times.. The more I look at the plane, the MORE i BELIEVE this plane is NOT SUPPOSE to come apart once it is together.. I do NOT even think the wings will come off the plane. So make sure you really read ahead..

Just take your time.. look ahead, think about everything you need to do and want to do.. the book is not always right on the order..

Mustang1964

The manual is having us put the shear webs on the back side of the spars. Is it overkill to add them to the front as well?
I am going to add the doublers z-4 and z-5 to the ribs as designed. I was thinking about adding the other doublers to the opposite side for the added support. Is this going to be a little over kill as well? The way I figure is that if I have them use them. It is my understanding that this whole area can use the beefing up.
I was able to get most of the right wing built last night, down to step 16. Should I sheet any part of the bottom before I pull the wing off of the board?
Thank you

intermidiot

Hello Gents,

I was out of town there for a few days.. I am back now.. Heading off to work today, but will be home after football tonight. My travel has caused me a delay in my building. But I am so close to being finished that the rest is just, well fluff. In regards to your question Mustang. I do not see any reason to do the front unless you want to. Just make sure you do not double up at the TE of the wing. That would be a disaster for the flaps As for weight. I do not think it that big an issue, you do want to keep the plane lite, but if it adds another 1/4 ounce to the plane and you are using the YS 1.10 or FS 1.20 I do not think the engine is really going to care.

Definitely beef up the retract supports with some of the extra blocks that are in your kit. Just sheet the top of the plane so that when you epoxy them into place the epoxy does not run out the top of the plane onto your work area.. AND MAKE SURE you do NOT GET ANY on your RETRACTS....

Leave the sheeting till later. You will find that you will be handling the plane A LOT with the retracts and that chances are you will bust the sheeting in the process. BUT MAKE SURE that you do not DRILL your WING BOLT PLATE holes until you HAVE sheeted the wing.

Hope that helps. Will be working on the plane tomorrow. More pictures coming MUahahahahahah!

Mustang1964

On page 17 they mention a FH(flap horn base) I have not been able to locate it on any of the pre cut pieces. Is this something I need to make from the extra pieces of wood they provides? (I had a boss that said "Nothing is scrap. It is just a shorter piece".)
Mustang

intermidiot

It's in there.. They might be in one of the bags that are with the kit.. Just look for the piece that has the FH on it.. It's got to be there.. I bet you found it already..

zope_pope

Hey Guys,

Missed me??? :P I have been really busy lately and as I see so much progress on your kits, I get jealous because mine is the same way it has been a month ago... Hopefully I will finish some work projects and use those funds to complete this thing. I really like those scale working exhausts. I just may have to switch engine choice. Nice work intermidiot, hope to keep talking to you folks. I miss this thread and my hobby!! Work sucks...

Adam

intermidiot

Hello Zope,

You best keep talking to us.. We miss you a lot around here.. ( in a heterosexual way ) Your input is invaluable. I hope you can come back soon and start working with us. I would hate to think that this is the last kit we do together. Just so everyone knows. Santa is bringing me this kit for Christmas. I am going to make it my next kit. Unless of course TopFlite takes me suggestion under their wing and makes one themselves. I only asked them to do it about 2 months ago. If that.. So I hope they do. From what I have heard though this is the best kit and the nice thing is that all the parts come in another kit you can purchase seperately. Check it out.

http://www.skysharkrc.com/stuka.htm

It is just a nice plane.. It basically has the features of the Corsair with the bent wings and this plane is essentially one of the planes that fought the p51. I am going for a nose to nose kinda thing. One US and one Enemy

Welcome Back Zope, Hope you and Brad stick around.. Where is Brad?

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Im still here and read the thread daily. I have not been working on my planes much in the last 2 to 3 weeks. I got to get some heat for my garage so I can work out there in the winter. The dust wouldn't go over with my wife in the house plus I have two children with allerges. If it were up to me I would be building on the kitchen table LOL. I plan to work on my fuse some more over the holidays, I have almost reached a point where I need to spend some bucks before proceding. Being Santa and trying to RC is not easy. Makes me wonder what you guys do for a living to afford this stuff. Those jet guys have lost their minds but I sure would love to have a Mig 15 with a turbine, maybe in the next life I will be rich instead of sexy.
Later,
Brad

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

Thats a killer looking plane by the way. Myself though I have to stick to the Top Flite series. I would like to have a whole fleet of them. May do the Corsair .60 size next.
Later,
Brad

Mustang1964

Hello guys,
Just when I think I am almost finished with the right wing, I find more that I need to do. I have a friend a work with a camera. I will bring the wing in next week and hopefully get a couple of shot to post. I think I have been on page 17 for the last two weeks.
Intermidiot I know you are busy, But any chance on getting that retract bracing shots?
Mustang

Mustang1964

Hello again,
I am about to join the wings. It seems to me that the two temp sticks that we need to make sure the W-2 are parallel should be the same as the CB. Does that sound right to ya'll?
Mustang

Cannon Fodder

Pardon my stupidity but I'm not finding my answer by searching. What is the best way to apply checkering to the compound curved nose of the P-51? I'm helping my buddy finish off his TF P51 that has been untouched for about 3 years. Most likely [link=http://www.newhamburgrc.com/images/planes/john/P51%20Mustang.jpg]THIS[/link] is the type scheme that he will use but it is also a possibility that he will use the Big Beautiful Doll scheme.

Thanks.

intermidiot

Hello Everyone,

What a nightmarish week!... I have not been home in days.. Setting up a new network at a company parallel to the one they have.. Whew.. I will be back on Thursday.. Sorry Mustang, I will certainly get you those images as soon as I get back.. In regards to your question.. I am not sure what you are talking about.. can you give me a picture in the manual? A step I can look at? Just want to make sure I answer you correctly..

@Cannon Fodder, Welcome to the thread by the way.. In regards to finishing up the nose with the checkerboard. You can either purchase the checkerboard already done online ( if you can find it ) sticker type, or you have to do what the manual says ( in the back ) http://www.top-flite.com/manuals/topa0110-manual.pdf . Page 50. I will actually make a template and air brush mine on, very carefully.. I have no time for stickers.. After glassing the plane and then all the sanding and finishing, the last thing I want to do is freak it up with a sticker..

Photos coming.. I will be back soon.. Sorry for the delay. I know how it is when you want to finish something and have to wait.. I will do it asap..

Cannon Fodder

Thanks. That was what I was afraid of, piece by piece. Oh well it has been sitting for 3 years whats another month of cutting Monocoat. [sm=tongue.gif]

mkeigwin

My Feedback: (18)

you would be better off paintting it . mask off all for one color do that color . then go back and remask and shoot the other color . lot of work but it would look so much better the a sticker .

finished the fuse on the p-47 and just need to sheet the top wing and it is ready for glass. i think i am going to glass both planes at the same time . + i had to work a my 91 heli got a new motor for it . can't get it in the us yet . love mail order . . order from hk last wed and it came on sunday . that was hard sale on the wife . she was what are you signing for now !!! oh a new motor !

Mustang1964

I am thinking about the flaps. I know there is a reason that they have two servos for the flaps. But why? Would it not be just as easy to set up the flaps like the ailerons? With one servo in the middle and handling both flaps. We should have the space because of the radiator cowl. I figure the flap servo would hang down in the radiator cowl. But it would still be hidden. Could we move the aileron servo a little to allow a second to handle a flap servo? I am sorry but I have been looking, thinking and measuring but have not made any cuts yet.
Any thoughts?
Mustang

BradSD

My Feedback: (9)

I was also curious about the two servos on the flaps. Looks like it would have been better to have two on the ailerons and one on the flaps to me. That would eliminate the bell crank on the ailerons also. Maybe the forces on the larger area of the Flap causes them to need the extra muscle im not sure.
Brad

Mustang1964

Hello Brad,
Top Flite's P-47D has the control horns for the flaps concealed. I was thinking that the same type of operation could be made for our birds as well.
I looked at the P-47D manual on-line, and could not really see how it was put together. I am planning on studying it a little more.
Mustang