asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Ticketec,
You're on the right track for sure here I would never put one aileron servo in such a sweet plane. It just deserves much better than that I like to keep mine around for a while as I’m sure most do. If you take a look at some of the increasingly popular ARF Mustangs such as those from Hanger 9 and Kyosho. All use the two outer wing mounted servo method and fly very well that way they must know something. I’ve built many of these ARF planes for guys in my club they build fast and look great if you’re not a builder. I however prefer to build my own planes from kits because I like the challenge and I’m up to the task. As for the helli boys they use a much different ball link system it’s designed for the loads in question. You will understand my concerns about the kits link when you see it. It requires you to thread each aileron push rod into it from opposite ends supported by just on tiny little ball that it snaps on to and off from way to easily. Plus you need to solder those junk brass thread on jobbies to the push rod wire end so they thread into the female plastic dual ball link as well. I’m a mechanist I know how soft brass is especially when you cut threads into it they will break under loads like that. I would not use them on any plane of mine no sir not now not ever. And being our clubs safety officer I would ground any plane & pilot trying to do so. Nothing I hate worse than junk kit hardware, spend the money for the good stuff and toss that crap out or machine your own I do.


Anyone for a beer I’m buying?

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Hello everyone just checking in here.... And I had a question for anyone with help! I am somewhat in the middle of building my 3rd stang and we had to move while in the middle of my build. And my wing had got broken and really isnt work fixing so I was wondering if anyone had a extra wing or wing kit they would want to sell ??????? (if it is already built) It must have retracks and flaps!!! it also doesnt have to be a 100% if a couple ribs are broke or whatever that is fine I can fix stuff like that.....please let me know what ya got!

Anyway to my build I have built a Stiletto racer in the past out of this kit and I am doing the same with this one. I have also added 1 (one) inch to the rudder for better kife edges....I will post some pics here in the next couple of mins or so of the work I have already done to it and if anyone else cares to check out my other build it is the "31% Exclusiv Modellbau Ultimate 10-300S build w/pics" thread... in this same forum


Thanks

bull51

I am all in favor of using mini servos in this kit where possible. I know Hitec makes some pretty powerful mini servos, but thier web site warns not to be fooled by the power. Power is great, but the nylon gears are not built to handle the load. Which brings us to the the other gear options, Karbonite and metal. Now I'm not too familiar with the karbonite, but they say is alot stronger that nylon. Now about metal gears. Anyone concerned with radio interference from using metal gear servos? I've heard of it and have experience it with my E-Maxx and hitec 645mg's. I'm the first to say that I'm not a guru and as a matter of fact, consider myself a newbie where radio gear and planes are involved. While not necessary, I would like to use mini servos for the ailerons and maybe the flaps. If all else fails, I'll go with the Futaba 3151's. Any and all suggestions are very much appreciated.

bull

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

few pics

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Bull51,

I fly a lot of electric models and use the Hs-81MG extensively, but i have noted here in Brisbane there are lot of radio glitches when flying park models around and don't know if they are servo induced other than to say it happens with all my park flyers whether they have the Hs-81MG or not so i doubt it. Karbonite sound like they are the way to go but i have yet to use any.

I have finished both wing halfs are will join them tomorrow time permitting. My retracts have been held up in the US and will now take longer than expected which almost makes me leave the wing in two with the building tabs in place until i can install the retracts and sheet the wing fairly quickly.

I want to start the fuse but am in a bit of a bind. I want to modify the standard cockpit area, e.g. servo tray to allow a scale cockpit to be installed. I'm not sure whether to build the fuse crutch as standard and then cut out what i don't need or to try and mod it on the fly, so to speak.

Thanks

bull51

Asphalt,

Did you have to add tail weight to your model? If so, how much?





ticketec,

That all looks great. Thanks for the info on the servos. I'm not too knowledgable about modifications, so I'm not able to assist there. Gook luck.

Anyone know if there is a top and bottom to the flaps? I cut them loose prior to sheeting and dont know wich way is up, LOL. If there is a difference, how can I tell? I notice that the instruction book lists a top and bottom on the flaps after they were cut loose.

bull

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

No Bull I did not but my 1800 mah pack is near the rear wing saddle which helps me out. But also got an onboard glow up front and that Tru Turn heavy 5" spinner. It all works out still don't know all up weight yet need a new scale.

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Bull, no it will not matter they are the same at the flaps

bull51

Thanks Asphalt and Warbirdair racer.

I'm going to check out those on board glow set ups, I kinda like the idea of not having to fuss with glow starters at the field.


Asphalt,

Both sides of the fuse are together, clamped and glued formers F-3 thru F-8. Never had to replace any of the fuse side parts!

bull

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

That's great news Bull glad it all worked out for ya. Yeah you can't beat the on-board glow from Ram you can set it to come on when you need it at any idle setting. Most 4-strokes don't like to run up-side down this helps so much with that, I'dd never fly without one. You can also set it to go back off at any high throttle setting when the engine runs better without the glow power put to it.

Mustang1964

Dion:
Can you take a pic of how you rigged the single flap servo? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Mustang1964

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Well, after much stuffing about, I've had to re-order all my retract stuff from Tower hobbies myself and now have a 10 to 30 day wait for the gear to get here.

I ended up with the Robart 606HD 85degree retracts with the robostruts. I also odered the EMS gear door sequencer that was used in the sea fury build on this forum, in the hope that i can get these doors to work. I tried a mix on my radio to do the job but it didn't work out as i wanted it to.

My work on the kit has effectivly halted until i get this order in, because i do not want to progress the fuse build anymore either. I will be moving the servos and cylinder around to make room for the cockpit, and i need the retract cylinder to work out where it will fit and were to move the other items to, to maintain the approx same weight distribution.

I think i will end up getting a Magnum 120 4-stroke for her even thought my mate has just offered me his O.S. 90 2-stroke. I have now poured significant amount of money into this project and am looking to save where possible..... but a 4-stroke sounds so much better.

thanks

bull51

Ticketec,

Looks good. I'm am using 85deg. retracts also. They seem to fit well so far.



Anyone know an easy way the shape the TE of the wings to incorporate the flaps. Manual says to use different size dowels. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

All your trying to do here is sand the TE end of the ribs to a round groove they (stick out a little) so the flap will mate to it better. So a dowel works great I used some coper pipe and my Dremel sanding drum a little also. It will be necessary to put that slight groove into the underside top sheeting and vertical sheeting between the TE spars as well. Just use care so you don't brake the ribs by hitting one with the end of the dowel while sanding back and forth.

bull51

Well, I used my Craftsman socket sets instead of dowels to shape the wing TE at the flaps. They worked great. I used four different sizes. I just wrapped my Easy-Touch sandpaper 3/4 of the way around the sockets and went to town.


What is the easiest way to taper the LE of the flaps and elevators?

bull

Mustang1964

Hello Guys,
This thread is dropping too far behine. I have been working on the retracts. I have Century jets. They seem to be 11mm. short. I have decided to put the pivot point the same. The CJ retracts seem to be thicker than I was hoping. So now I am in the processing moveing the retract back into the wing a little. When I get the first one done the second should be a lot easier. I have not been able to put the time in to it like I would have like to do. But an hour every other or third day is about the best I can do now. I did receive the Kelo exhaust. Not I can not wait until I start on the fuse.
Talk to ya later.

Mustang1964

Blue_Moon_

Check this out...
[:'(]


http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_28..._1/key_/tm.htm

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Mustang1964,

I hear you! The only reason i haven't posted anything is that i am still waiting for my retracts to turn up. I haven't touched her for a week or so, but it feels like no one else is making any progress either....

Sorry to hear about your loss Blue moon.

Hey Asphalt252 have you maidened her yet? Looking forward to some in fligth pic's!

Thanks

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

No not yet we got more snow the other day way to cold. But I did get to put up a new Hanger 9 P-47 ARF last Saturday I tossed together for a budy and I'm sure the Mustang will fly just as good. But I can help you with the in flight pics with a little help from Photoshop LOL.

bull51

Mustang,


What engine are you putting the Keleo exhaust on?

I too have been limited in time I can spend working on my 51. Got my retracts fitted and bolted in. Flaps are shaped and I just finished the ailerons about 1/2 hr. ago. My wing is almost complete. Now its time to move on to the tailwheel retract. Kinda shooting in the dark with this one. Im not sure where to start. I hope to get some pics up tomorrow.

bull

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Jamie duff,

How did you manage to not let the fiberglass glue to the lower wing surface? I have just bought/watched Dave platt's detailing and painting techinques vol.1 and i noticed that he did this also. but it must have been covered in another video as to how it was done.

Just out of interest, are teh other DVD in his series any better? For $30 i was pretty disappointed with the quality of the video.It was rather hard to see what he was doing, And i also thought he brushed over a lot of topics that interested me.... The tips and techinque where pretty good though.

Hey Asphalt252

Gee those H9 T/bolts look good. You should do a search on ebay for P-47 and will come across a set of pylons and bombs for the H9 P-47 and i think the same guy also sell better guns for it too. It a harder and harder decision to sratchbuild these days when the ARF models are becoming better and better and cheaper than you could build the model yourself. If i didn't love building so much.......


Thanks

bull51

Here are some pics of my progress. Let me know what you think.

PaStang

bull, those pics look great . you are making great progress . in those pics , is the wing glassed already ? cause when i glass mine , i hope it will look close to what you are showing , real nice . i have finally sheeted the wing , and, i am planning on moving on soon , is it better to cut out the servo doors before glassing ... probably is huh ? again great job on the builds everyone... i will post some pics soon of my wing effort, and i am glad to see the thread still alive , i havent much spare time to build but when i do, my wife cant get me to stop ,,,,,,,unless she ahhh!!!!!...... really needs me ..lol have fun everyone

bull51

PaStang,

Thanks for the compliments.

No the wing is not glassed in the pics. I am not sure, yet, if I will glass the wing. I have never glassed before and don't want to mess this project up by a sloppy glass job. I know that the glass will strengthen the structure, but I'm also concerned about weight. I've added some extras already and glass will just add to the weight.

PaStang

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