PaStang

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ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Guys,

My tower order finally arrived. I shouldn't really say finally because they were so quick other than it was more about stuffing around from my end.

I have received the following items so those of you using the same can work together.

188VRX air control kit deluxe
Robart 134 scale wheels 3 1/4!QUOT!
653R Robostrut
653L robostrut ( mate has this one at the moment...)
606HD 85deg Main
EMS gear door sequencer

I didn't realise the amount of work that was required to fit the robostruts to the legs. Not that it was excessive, just i thought they would come more !QUOT!ready to install!QUOT!.

As you can see i have have set-up the right leg and will attach it to the strut after i tap the grub screw holes at work because i don't have any taps at home.[&o]

I also, as stated previously want to have working gear doors both inner and outer that will stay on the aircraft in flight. That's what the EMS gear door sequencer is for. I measured the !QUOT!depth!QUOT! of the assembled strut and wheel as per the pic, and it came up at 1 3/8!QUOT!. The wheel well depth which is at rib 2 is 2!QUOT! so there should be plenty of room to fully enclose them. I will also lower the retract rails as per asphalt252 recommendations to also get the main doors to work correctly. I am now very confident that i can get this to work. I'm just hoping that the gamble of using the 85deg retracts will pay off.

I'm heading off to The Gold Coast which is where the Indy races are run for the weekend, so i'll have to wait till next week to start the fitment of the gear. Three guesses what i'll be thinking of all weekend....

Thanks

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Very very nice work Bull! It all looks very much like mine did keep at it. Need some glassing tips or covering tips just IM me OK. Hey you guys using those sclae Robart wheels drill a hole in the hub cap provided and put the cap on the inside it looks better don't you think?

bull51

Asphalt,

Looks good. Can't wait to hear of her first flight and soft landing. I think I've got my tail wheel all mapped out. I will be moving ahead with the fuse soon.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Can't wait for the test flight report as well!

Hey Bull51, could you post some pic's of your tail wheel set-up if you could? I am not far off the tail wheel install myself and would love to get some more ideas..

I have been working on installing the mains and have spen about 3-5h trying to get them right. The problem i have run into is that the section of wing where the retract unit sits in is not deep enough. I can ge the wheels in no problem, it's just that i might have to sand a little of the top on the retract unit.

I'll post some pics when i an a little further progressed.

Thanks

jamie_duff

HI Ticketec.

Haven't touched the Mustang for a couple of weeks as I've been working on my full size project.

To answer your gear door question though, I simple applied solarfilm (like monocote) to the wing before laying up the fibreglass. Once the layup has cured simply pull the heat shrink crap off the wing and you're done. It means you can cut the holes and doors separately - gives more room for error!!

You will need much heavier cloth than I first used though. This is the first time I've done this so I tried 4 layers of 3/4 oz cloth. Nowhere near it!

Try 2 or 3 layers of 9 oz cloth (thats what I'm using on the full size so I've got plenty of it ) and you'll get good stiff doors.

I hate to see myself falling behind so badly lol

Nice work everyone!! I'll get back to mine soon!!

bull51

Ticketec,

My tail wheel is not installed yet, just planned out. I spent a couple of hours with a scrap F-10, cutting, sanding and fitting to get it right. Just trial and error type work. I cut the original tail wheel music wire to the length I needed, about 1 inch longer than the wire supplied with robart's 121 retract. I also cut the lower mounting holes off of the retract unit (the ones which protrude out), they just got in the way. I dont know the exact measurement, but the retract mount is about 1/4 inch, or so, above the bottom of the fuse. This allows the wheel to be completely inside the fuse when retracted. I test fited this about 50 times using the fuse plans, side view and the fuse itself. I'll try to tape it all back together today and get some pics for you.

bull51

Ticketec,


Here are those pics. I have not installed the yoke set up, but from the looks of things, the position of my tail wheel retract does not interfere with anything. The elevator push-rod will run right beside the retract unit. The rudder push-rod will run in its designed position, without the tail wheel steering ball joint, of course.

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Nice work guys LAR (Looks About Right) That's the way to do it keep at it looks great. You will need to open the hole up to keep the wheel from hanging up on the edges. Besides you can better make scale doors in there this way with a lager opening. Don't forget to put a small flat spot on the wheel wire for the cable arm set screw or it will come loose. The best way to attach the cable to the arms of the unit and the yoke at the other end is to use a cable looped around the ball part of a ball link. Doing this allows the cable to swing freely as the wheel arms turn providing so much more movement of the cable without binding it works great. If you look close you can see the ball links on mine in the first photo this will also keep the cable from cutting into the plastic arm itself. You can also see an example of this link setup on my T-34 Mentor build front landing gear steering link. NICE WORK AGAIN!!!!!!!!!!!

bull51

Asphalt,

Thanks for the advice. You are partly responsible for my courage to try the tail wheel retract and I'm glad I did.

I have two questions for you,

1. What is your yoke made of? It looks like ply.

2. I'm assuming I have to put the pull-pull cable through some type of tube, or guide at each former. Is this correct, If so, what did you use?

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Bull,
Yes my yoke is 1/16 ply just make sure it is strong and don't bind anyplace. Use a gold servo mount bushing in the center with a small bolt and lock nut not a screw to fasten it to a secure mounting place like another piece of ply glued down near the rudder servo. You can use any kind of tube for a guide put the tube all the way down the fuse from yoke to tail wheel arm. If you need to replace the cables it will be easer to rethread them if you have acses to the tubes going through the bulkheads. I use Polypenco-Nyalaflow or Sullivan Golden-Rod discard the outer blue tube use only the yellow one see photo 1. Bull, IM me your address I'll send you some have a ton of it cable and keepers too see pic, let me know if you want it free. A guy in my club passed on have way more than I need. Now one more very important thing to do is to cross the cables over one another at some point in the fuse to the tail wheel as in photo 2. You'll get much more pull-pull action from the yoke doing this rather than keeping them straight. Just make sure you think it through so you end up with the wheel going in the same direction as the rudder in a turn. I know this seems like a no brainier but I've been building these things for fourteen years and can still hook it all up just to find out later I did it wrong lol funny. You will not be able to just simply hit the servo reverser to fix it either it's start over time, so map it out and do it once unlike me.Oh by the way come over sometime and fly the actual model P-51 on this baby you'll just love it its so real!!!!

bull51

Asphalt,


Is that RealFlight G3????? I want it. I sold my G2 and now I'm sorry. I've gone all winter without flying. I'll just have to break down and buy G3.

As for the tubes, I sure do appreciate your offer, but I happen to have some suitable tubing left over from other projects. I was planning on putting small pieces in the bulkheads, so I am very glad you mentioned to put them from yoke to tailwheel. I've read somewhere about crossing the cables, just as you have mentioned. Does it really help? How?

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Yes it is G-3 and about crossing the cables I thinks it just simply makes it work better not sure why. I hooked it up both ways on mine and was much happier with it when I had them crossed.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Jamie,

Thanks for that. Sound easy enough! I'm about ready to skin the lower surface and will have a go at it shortly. You have me curious, what are you building full sized?

Thanks Bull51 and asphalt for the info in the tail wheel setup. the photo's where great. I will have to modify the wire as you guy's have done.

Have you flown yours yet Asphalt?

I have decided to put the space where the single servo would live to use, seeing as i will be using two servos for the ailerons. I have mounted the retract control valve there and the servo to operate it will be installed in the there as well. This means that i only have to use one quick disconnect for the pressure line which will hopefully be once less area which could give me problems. You can also see that between the two ply center ribs that go to the wing bolt plate that there is a piece of balsa. This is so that i can mount the inner door hinges to something. If i wasn't trying to install a cockpit then i could also mount the cylinder to the wing and be done with any disconnects all together.

I am a little disappointed with the quality of the robarts. There is a fair bit of play in both the up-locked and down-locked positions. and there is no means to adjust them either, which a no-name mechanical set of mine have. in the up-locked position, there is over 1/4 inch of slop. This makes the inner doors harder to make work. I'm now toying with the idea of using the inner doors to take up the slack in the retracts and act as a sort of secondary up-lock. The Boeing 767 uses it's door as the main up-lock system and this is where i got the idea from... The trick will be to ensure that the servo operating the inner doors isn't loaded up when in the gear is in the up position.

Thanks

I'm about ready to skin the lower surface of the wing.

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

No first flight as of yet still waiting for the perfect day with little wind. And still awiting for my nerve to get up to do it. I just never get tired of looking at her she looks so darn good you'll see what I meen soon enough. Just hate to loose her, man I've built dozens of planes not sure why I'm so attached to this one. Never was one for owning hanger queens I FLY MY PLANES but as we all know when you fly you also crash too. But one nice day I'll get the bug and say heck with it and just go for it. I know I did the best I could building her so I'll just hope for the best and see what happends.

bull51

Hey all,


Any updates.

First flight yet Asphalt? Ive hit a road block. I've lost momentum. Have done no work since the tail wheel photos. I'm ashamed of myself. Hope to get going again soon.

bull

scottrc

Hope everything is flying well on that beautiful bird of yours. These 1/7 Mustangs are great flyers. I have had mine now for, jeeppers, 14 years now and still love every minute flying it. It is due for a recovering and the tailfeathers are getting a little loose, so I may rebuild it this fall. I like the colors schemes shown on this thread. Great work guys.


Scott

asphalt252

My Feedback: (5)

Well the weather has been great for that flight but now its me. Boy I've been sicker than a dog this past weekend. The Docs got me on some stuff that should get me back up on my feet so I can get out and put that thing up. Will post all flight reports in every detail soon so stay tuned guys! Hey planes don't build them selvs keep at it the rewards are great and there is light at the end of the tunnel so press on.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey Guy's

I have been keeping an eye on the thread, but i haven't got too much further lately. My wing's are now sheeted, and awaiting final shaping of the wing tips and leading edge.

I am busy getting ready for an electric model airshow....


Keep the updates coming...

Thanks

klode

I have question about engine cowl installation?

do i need to center the engine cowl with the fuselage or should i respect the 1.6 right trust degre as indicated in the plan?

My engine is a Saito FA 100 in inverted position.

Sorry for my english, i'm French Canadian...

bye,

Claude

Sandyt

Claude

Your English is very good, much better than my French! You will recall that the engine is not installed on the centerline of the fuselage. Rather, it is installed on a line that is about 1/4 inch (about 8mm) offset from the center. If the designer has done his job correctly, then the rear part of the propeller spinner will exit the front of the nose, including the cowl, exactly on the center!

On mine, the cowl needs to be slightly pushed in order to line up with the rest of the nose, but it is not too bad. As long as you follow the directions, you will come out OK, n'est pas?

Sandy T

klode

Thanks a lot Sandyt!

À la prochaine!

Claude

jamie_duff

Welcome Claude

I'm supposed to be a builder too! I haven't done much work on mine recently though - I seem to have lost momentum! []

On the plus side, I have been busy working on the P-47 and T-6 - and the Mustang is back on the table. Think I need to find a standard servo before I can proceed though [:@]

jamie_duff

Well fiddle sticks as polite old ladies say in Britain.....................


It's just dawned on me that the u/c geometry is miles off scale on this model too. The wheels end up in the scale position, but the pivot point is 30mm (about 1 3/16" ) too far aft.

It should have twigged earlier but it didn't. Ho hum. I've drawn up my u/c door templates, as close to scale as possible.

Does anyone want a scan of them to print out and use for their own? I may post it up anyway for future builders who also want inner doors etc. Don't know if anyone else is silly enough to bother with doors though!!

jamie_duff

Here's the template - sorry about the picture size - if someone could explain how to post up the thumbnails that would be great.



There's the scale incase anyone needs it, but print it A4 size with no borders and you should end up with the same template I have.


DISCLAIMER - Please check the fit before chopping your beautiful new wing skin up - the attached template fits MY Top Flite P-51D, using MY CJM retracts and MY 4" wheels.