Mustang Fever

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OK, 1.........2............3............BUILD!

Mustang1964

Count me in. My bird might not be ready to fly anytime soon. I bring the pieced that I have so far.

Mustang Fever

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Mine's lookin better- Tower shipped it today. Now if they can just locate the box that had the landing gear in it............

Live Wire

Z P
There is another one being built in NE corner Gold P 51 D

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Nice to see alot of colo. peeps in here [8D]


heres my latest Stang


John@Aero-Works

shafs

Hi

What brand is that Mustang?

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

It is a composite-ARF p-51 D You can find it at composite-arf.com



John@Aero-Works

lol@my date being wrong on the pics guess my cam didnt like the new year lol

zope_pope

Hey thats cheating! :P

Nice looking mustang. Could give us some ideas for panel lines and detailing on the kit.

WarbirdAirRacer

My Feedback: (16)

Well to be a 100% honest here I really am not the one to be asking that kind of question....As that is part of the reason why I bought this kit, Plus it was because of its size and over all scale look/lines. Not that there is anything wrong with the TF kits/ARFs. I have built and flown many of these FT kits and love them to death!!!!! And wish I had the time to build me a 60-1.20 Stang again but that just isnt in the cards right now....And as it stands now I still dont even have time to start/buy the parts needed for this one. So I have thought about selling this one and seeing if I could find a RTF one around or seeing if someone would build me one of these? *hint*


John@Aero-Works

Mustang1964

Hello WarbirdAirRacer:
Keep the pics coming. It looks like it could be a fun machine.
Mustang1964

sabre1205

Hay gang
I am at the point where I need to build the cowl and I dont have a 4" spinner
I have looked in the the regular places(Tower,Dubro,ect) but cant find one
Does anyone know where to find a 4" spinner. I am looking for the colored ones as I dont want to use a metal one

Thanks

sabre1205

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Sabre:

http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on

This is the one I'm using on mine, only I'll be going for red anodized. The different color selection is at the bottom of the page. They have black.

Don't forget to go to the "adapter finder" and select the correct adapter. That you can order from Tower for a buck or so less, if you're putting an order together.

sabre1205

Thanks

Sabre1205

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I've been "lurking" during the discussion of 85 vs 90 degree mains, because until my Robart 622s arrived today, I really didn't understand what it referred to. These are advertised as "85 degree" and it also says so on the box.

I chose the 622s because of the very scale strut (which accepts a scale size 4" wheel), and the fact that the strut is on the extreme front of the retract unit, making it possible to get the wheel very far forward for good ground handling. They are 1/6 scale, intended for the now-discontinued Pica kit. Since the TF is 1/6.8, they won't look to awfully out of place, and should be very reliable. (After I get a set of the aluminum cams from Sierra Precision. I've seen at least a couple of horror stories about how the plastic ones break.)

Looking at them today, I realized that 85 degrees refers only to the angle between the strut and the retract mounting line when the gear is EXTENDED. The travel is a full 90 degrees. When retracted, the strut is actually 5 degrees or more above the mount line. The pix show this pretty conclusively. I don't know if this applies to other 85 degree retracts, but I'm sure glad this is how Robart did it on the 622s. By recessing the units somewhat below the sheeting line, I should have no trouble getting the inner and outer gear doors to work correctly, but, like I said earlier, I'm going to build a mock 1/2 center section of the wing and get everything right before I build the actual wing.

ExcaliburIII

I just can't see why this 85degree subject is so confusing for everyone.
1. The dihedral of the wing dictates the retract angle needed for the struts to be vertical while extended.
2. The Mustang wing has about 10 degrees of total dihedral or 5 degrees per side.
3. For the wheel to retract centered in the wing 85 degrees of motion are necessary.
4. The retract assembly is mounted parallel with the centerline of the wing not at a 5 degree angle.
5. If the retract you are using moves 90 degrees the wheel will hit the top wing sheeting or the struts will be bowed out.

If the retracts move 90 degrees they won't work right no matter how you mount them.

Rich Longfellow
ExcaliburIII

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Take another look at both pix.

ExcaliburIII

I looked at them several times and you are right that your 622,s do travel 90 degrees. My 531RS series actually only travel 85 degrees and the struts are parallel to the mounts when retracted. I have included links to both so everyone can compare them side by side. Mine were more difficult to install and require extra work because the air cylinders are facing out instead of into the wheel well. No retracts can be installed parallel with the bottom sheeting of the wing and work properly. They must be installed parallel with the wing centerline and that's what makes it difficult. Remember the entire wing is tapered and your 622's are 1/2 " thicker and you won't be able to get the pivot point on the centerline of the wing. You can see in the picture how much I had to lower the mounts to get the pivot in the right place. This will make the doors look and work like full scale and when I get them done I'll post pics. Just showing how I did it so hopefully others will see why you need 85 degrees of motion.

http://www.robart.com/retracts/drawings/531RS.pdf

http://www.robart.com/retracts/drawings/622.pdf

Rich Longfellow
ExcaliburIII

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

This is gonna be interesting, at the least.

Robart includes a nice blueprint of how the 622s are to be installed in the Pica P-51. It has patterns for rib doublers and a 1/4" ply mounting plate for the retracts. They show the mounting plate being parallel to and flush with the lower wing spar. I don't have the Pica kit handy, but it would appear that this puts the retract mounting plates just inside the lower wing sheeting.

If the sheeting is 3/32", that would cause the pivot point to be recessed below the sheeting line 15/32, or not quite half an inch, as the pivot is 3/8 above the mounting plates.
I think I'll start with having the mounting plates a little deeper, if possible, on my mockup. I can always shim it later to get it right.

This is all speculation at this point, anyway, as the kit hasn't arrived yet. I may find that the LE area of the TF wing is not thick enough to do this at all, in which case I'll have to send the 622s back to Tower.

sabre1205

Here is a update on my P51
The wing is almost done and ready to cover

justrfb

My Feedback: (2)

Sabre1205,
I am building the same plane (have been for years...) and may I respectfully offer that you may want to think about changing out your mini-servo driving your flaps to something more robust. Those flaps are pretty big and you are driving both off of a mini... Also, the two 90 degree bends in your flap push rod may allow for a fair amount of flex, if not bend. Your build looks great and I wish you many, many happy flights... Maybe someone else can either "second" my concerns for your situation or dismiss them as hog-wash. Best wishes...

sabre1205

NO problem
This is the way that I have broken it down
#1 Take off- The flaps will be down on take off and after the plane leaves the ground I plan on retracting them anyway so no stress
#2 Landing- I dont think that deploying flaps at full speed is a good idea as the plane will nose dive and become a lawn dart. The plan is to just use what I need to get the plane to be able to land at a slower speed as the servo is a GWS Mini Standard. They will only be deployed on the last 200+ feet before landing so the amount of time is less than a minute. I also have a GP Ultra Sport 60 with the same wing design but no flaps and I have praticed with it to get a feel for this kind of wing design I can also later on reinforce the bend with some kind of brace
#3 If the result is that the flaps are useless, I can always cut the the assy out and put 2 servos in the flap servo bay anyway
So this is my thoughts on this and no offence taken, but thanks for the input as I will be assesing the flaps when I give it the maiden flight

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Sabre:

I think you'll get hooked on flaps the way I did. I tried them for the first time on an Ugly Stick, and they make a big difference on approach and landing. The airplane slows down much better, and the angle of descent is doubled or tripled. I learned the hard way to 1) go upstairs and get the flap/pitch relationship sorted out before you try them close to the ground. 2)Turn final before you deploy them, and always, always make sure the plane is dead into the wind. They cause so much drag that deploying them in a cross wind or downwind results in instant loss of control. I have also found that with flaps down, the airplane likes to point nose down at about a 60-75 degree angle. Once you've achieved that, you can control the angle of descent with the power, and make the bird touch down right where you want it.

TopFlite recommends 1" of flap for TO, and the max travel of 1-11/16"" for landing. I don't know if I want to use that much on TO the first time. I think I'll work up to it.

As far as the mini servo, does it have a plastic gear train? If so, I'd think twice about using it. I've used micros that were not much smaller, and found that plastic gear trains and glow engines on servos that size don't get along too well. The HiTec HS-225MG mini is a ball bearing servo with a metal gear train and puts out 54 oz-in of torque, which is more than my favorite "cheap" standard servo, the Airtronics. $28 from Tower. http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXN667&P=0

Have fun. I've really enjoyed watching you and the other guys build theirs. Mine should be here today or tomorrow.

sabre1205

Yes I am very interested in using the flaps
And I dont plan on using the throws either
I just want to use the flaps to get a little slower landing speed, maybe about 3/4 inch throw
And again if it does not work out I can swap the assy out for the servos

bull51

Well, hello again. Glad to see all the progress going on. You guys are setting such high standards with the builds, I'm not so sure I can keep up. I was finally able to buy a flight pack for my build and I'm moving forward. As always thanks to all for the input in the forum!

bull

Mustang1964

sabre1205:
Have you had any problems with the wing, leaving the top open while working on the bottom?
I am using the hetec 635 servo for the flaps. I am in the process of getting all of that hooked up.
I like what you did lining the wheel wells. I am using century jets landing gear. My main concern is the
shape of the bottom of the wing. Are you going to use doors? I am still on the fience. I am using 4-40 rods
for the flaps. I was thinking about getting a piece of steel and weld it to the rods, like the one on the Stab.
Would that add too much weight? Any thougts would be greatly appreicated.
Mustang1964