Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
#977
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Tru Turn was a good choice before, and they're even better now that you can get your spinner anodized in red, black, blue, yellow or purple. I hated having to use a natural aluminum spinner on a scale airplane that had a red or black one in real life, as the plastics just won't hold up to an electric starter. Here's a pic of the one I just got for the Bosak F-4 I'm building. The FAI shape matches the Phantom's nose perfectly, and black was the color of the radome on the C models we had. Pricey, but not unreasonable considering the quality and durability.
#978
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Okay, it makes sense when you bring up all the associated costs. I questioned it at first as the
spun aluminum spinner for my Brian Taylor P-51 which was a nonstandard size was like $40
bucks. Anyway looking forward to everyone’s progress, SVX
spun aluminum spinner for my Brian Taylor P-51 which was a nonstandard size was like $40
bucks. Anyway looking forward to everyone’s progress, SVX
#979
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I bought the Dave brown spinner and I think it looks fine. Although I did not go into a lot of detail with the airplane. Knowing that I am not the best pilot and this is my first mustang I knew the spinner woould get scuffed up with noseovers and such so I went with the bare aluminum. I dont know how the anodized spinners hold up to my punishment. I also notice wear on them from the starters but I never looked close enough to see if the color was wearing off or if it was just a scuff fom the starter.
#980
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Pope, let's not post too many prices here in case the misses walks by, I tell her you can do this hobby for around $62.50
Of course my tower order should be here soon for near $400[]
Of course my tower order should be here soon for near $400[]
#984
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Such a small world. I am the new xwinds safety officer. Going to the meeting for pizza and beer on the 9th?
We'll have to show off our mustangs when they're ready to go.
Sorry bout the pricing. Luckily my woman doesn't give me too much crap, that is until i bought that 50cc extra. :P a good 2300 bucks later, and now I have to sneak in the parts for this by sending them to work. hehe.
Have any of you guys seen this model ferrari?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRuAXXmUEqo
It has inspired me. If ever possible, if light enough, if I have the money and the patience, I would love to build a scale working model of the engine for a larger mustang... but hey, that could just be a wild dream. This guy did show that its possible. Check out the video.
I am off to sanding these darn wingtips. :P
We'll have to show off our mustangs when they're ready to go.
Sorry bout the pricing. Luckily my woman doesn't give me too much crap, that is until i bought that 50cc extra. :P a good 2300 bucks later, and now I have to sneak in the parts for this by sending them to work. hehe.
Have any of you guys seen this model ferrari?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRuAXXmUEqo
It has inspired me. If ever possible, if light enough, if I have the money and the patience, I would love to build a scale working model of the engine for a larger mustang... but hey, that could just be a wild dream. This guy did show that its possible. Check out the video.
I am off to sanding these darn wingtips. :P
#985
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Yeah someone outa get this guy into r/c planes, so he can design a true engine for the mustang. Of course I could be dead before he finishes it.[]
#986
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I am at the point to start covering the wings. Thinking about doing this by gluing the sheets together and applying this as one sheet. What type of glue are most of you using? Think that using CA would result in a very rushed job. Was thinking of using Titebond on the ribs, spars and trailing edges and CA the leading edge. Then would stack magazines on top of the sheet to hold tight to ribs etc until dry. Think support on the spar and leading/trailing edges may be required to support the weight of the magazines.
Suggestions?
Bruce
Suggestions?
Bruce
#987
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I put mine on one sheet at a time
Starting at the spar I put the sheet half way across the spar toward the trailing edge
and then put a sheet at the leading edge at an angle then laid it over at the spar and trimmed
to fit. Then put the final sheet over the trailing edge and trimmed it along the edge
Went very well
Starting at the spar I put the sheet half way across the spar toward the trailing edge
and then put a sheet at the leading edge at an angle then laid it over at the spar and trimmed
to fit. Then put the final sheet over the trailing edge and trimmed it along the edge
Went very well
#988
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
One Sheet here as well, but be careful handling the wing. I cracked the sheeting a few times when i got careless. The technique in the book works quite well as long as you are careful (applying the sheeting with the wing vertically is where the trouble started).
#989
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
The method I use with Titebond is as follows.
Trim the edges of the balsa sheets with a straight edge and glue them up wide enough to cover the wing. After the glue has dried, sand both sides flat with 80 grit, then one side with 150 and 220. This will be your glassing side. Cut the skins slightly larger than needed. Trim the skins at the wing joint to fit, leaving extra overhang on the LE, TE and tip.
For the first skin, when I have access through the framing, I CA it on with thin CA.
For the second skin (closing up the wing), give an even coat of Titebond on all the ribs spars, and on the skin where it will contact the ribs and spars.
Let the glue dry for an hour before applying the skin.
Position the skin on the wing. Get your covering iron up to temp and lron the skin on. The heat will "re-activate" the Titebond glue and will give an almost instant set.
After the balsa is ironed on, trim the LE, TE and tip. Now go around the edges with thin CA. The skin is now on, sanded and nearly ready for glassing.
Scott
Trim the edges of the balsa sheets with a straight edge and glue them up wide enough to cover the wing. After the glue has dried, sand both sides flat with 80 grit, then one side with 150 and 220. This will be your glassing side. Cut the skins slightly larger than needed. Trim the skins at the wing joint to fit, leaving extra overhang on the LE, TE and tip.
For the first skin, when I have access through the framing, I CA it on with thin CA.
For the second skin (closing up the wing), give an even coat of Titebond on all the ribs spars, and on the skin where it will contact the ribs and spars.
Let the glue dry for an hour before applying the skin.
Position the skin on the wing. Get your covering iron up to temp and lron the skin on. The heat will "re-activate" the Titebond glue and will give an almost instant set.
After the balsa is ironed on, trim the LE, TE and tip. Now go around the edges with thin CA. The skin is now on, sanded and nearly ready for glassing.
Scott
#990
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Scott,
Where were you when I did my sheeting!!! I like how that technique sounds, I'll be sure to try it on my next build (might do the Spitfire).
Also, I am pretty much finished with the Pony build. I'll be posting pics next week when I return from a trip. (Testing new guns - I love my job).
Thanks for the input bud.
Joe
Where were you when I did my sheeting!!! I like how that technique sounds, I'll be sure to try it on my next build (might do the Spitfire).
Also, I am pretty much finished with the Pony build. I'll be posting pics next week when I return from a trip. (Testing new guns - I love my job).
Thanks for the input bud.
Joe
#991
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I used this technique on my spitfire and on my current build, a fully sheeted 4 *. It's a bit tricky on the Spitfire wing because of the compound curve of the eliptical wing. I originally read about this technique in a Model Airplane News book, Radio Control Airplane Building Techniques. Works like a charm. It should work with any alphatic or PVA glue.
Scott
Scott
#992
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Using the Robarts 605 Retracts with 653R and 633L struts. Does anyone know how much you cut off, or did you use them full length? With the 3 1/4 wheels, wanted to get as much ground clearance as practical.
With then angled into the wing, they should end up being about 90 degrees to the ground.
Looks like from some of the pictures, you end up with the wheel fairly tight to the center ribs.
Bruce
With then angled into the wing, they should end up being about 90 degrees to the ground.
Looks like from some of the pictures, you end up with the wheel fairly tight to the center ribs.
Bruce
#993
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I just kept trimming my robostruts till the wheel fit where i wanted it to in the wing. It took 2 cuts, but I am satisfied the way it is.
What I am not liking is sanding this wing tips. i am about halfway there, but i think I am going to down a pint to make the sanding a little more fun.
What I am not liking is sanding this wing tips. i am about halfway there, but i think I am going to down a pint to make the sanding a little more fun.
#995
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
LOL. One was plenty. I just got done and boy is it a mess in the airplane room. now to join the wing to the fuse (i had gotten carried away and built the fuse instead of working on my landing gear during my time away from the thread).
Anyone else have updates or flight reports?
Also, to all the CO followers. Anyone have a flying club that has been plowed and doesnt mind letting me and my buddy fly as guests? I have been dying to go flying but I stopped by my field yesterday and there is probably a 12-15" base out there. Not pretty.
Anyone else have updates or flight reports?
Also, to all the CO followers. Anyone have a flying club that has been plowed and doesnt mind letting me and my buddy fly as guests? I have been dying to go flying but I stopped by my field yesterday and there is probably a 12-15" base out there. Not pretty.
#996
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
UGH.....
Just when i thought I was done sanding for a little while, I get to mounting the wing, and my CLE needs some heavy duty sanding so that the wing fits nice in the saddle. Almost done, but i am taking a break. my arm's killing me.
Just when i thought I was done sanding for a little while, I get to mounting the wing, and my CLE needs some heavy duty sanding so that the wing fits nice in the saddle. Almost done, but i am taking a break. my arm's killing me.
#997
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
We have all been there. I have built a couple of the old royal kits as well as scratch built my BT
P-40. It wasn't until recently I came across a small hand plain at the hardware store. It fits in my
hand and has taken literally hours of sanding off my builds. Not to mention all the sand paper I
have saved. I highly recommend it. SVX
P-40. It wasn't until recently I came across a small hand plain at the hardware store. It fits in my
hand and has taken literally hours of sanding off my builds. Not to mention all the sand paper I
have saved. I highly recommend it. SVX
#998
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
My 653's are 6" long total.
4" long from the top to the bottom where the spring is enclosed
This gives me about 1-1 1/2 " clearance for the scoop
Looks good to
Sabre1205
4" long from the top to the bottom where the spring is enclosed
This gives me about 1-1 1/2 " clearance for the scoop
Looks good to
Sabre1205
#999
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I believe a few people have touched on the subject but I was wondering if people could tell me what they are using for servos in this plane.
Thanks
Thanks
#1000
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I am going digital all around. probably the HS5245 on most, if not all, surfaces. It should be plenty, plus I'll be able to program them for slow moving flaps, etc. I love my Hitec digis.