Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Wow. Cpig, I hope mine comes out looking half as nice. That is one gorgeous bird.

Which 4S engine is in there? I think you said, but I forgot.

zope_pope

Looks like a saito 100.

Looking good though. I can't wait to finish mine.

mikemedic2

Looking good!!!
I just started mine last night, going to be a slow build. I got the stab done and I am working on the fin/rudder now. I am waiting on some maxxlights to arrive before I can sheet the fin.[&o]

Zope, I know it has been beat to death here but that razor plane was a arm saver for the stab tip's it worked great!!!

zope_pope

I have one, and i try to use it everytime, but I just cant figure it out. It either takes chunks, or not enough. maybe my blade is dead?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Zope: I found you have to play around a bit with how much of the blade sticks out the bottom (cutting) side, AND, this is the real trick- you have to learn to plane at about a 65-75 degree angle to the direction of travel, not 90 degrees like you'd do with a "real" wood plane.

Instructor

My Feedback: (16)

One thing I would like to ask you, are the wings already sheeted? Did the Top Flite P-51 wing have little tabs on the bottom of the ribs? If so, these are there to build in the washout as you build the wing. That wing should have 1.5º to 2º washout. If the wings are already sheeted, then you will have to cut open the bottom skins, twist the trailing edge at the tip so it is 1.5º to 2º higher than the centerline of the leading edge, at the tip. What I do if I'm building a wing that has a double taper, swept back leading edge, swept forward trailing edge, is to make a 1/4" tapered shim to lay the trailing edge on before I start the wing. I lay this shim, which is as long as the trailing edge stock or trailing edge sheeting under the trailing edge. This shim will be 3/16" tall at the tip and trapered to nothing at the root. Then the wing is built right on this shim. Protect the shim from glue with wax paper. If you already have the wing skinned, then reverse the shim, 3/16" end at the center of the panel, nothing at the tip. Turn the wing over so the bottom is on top. Make large slits in the bottom sheeting. Soak with ammonia. Lay large weights on the wing to hold it down to the shim. Let dry overnight. Check next morning to see if the washout is there. Reglue the bottom sheeting down and fill the slits witk sheeting. Then finish the wings your way. Good luck.....

Larry

Cpig

Thank you Mustang Fever,
It's a Saito 120. Close Zope but a 100 won't cut it for me on this thing, especially at this altitude. I originally had a .60 2 stroke on my first one and it was way underpowered (and that was at sea level). I upgraded it to this 120 and it flew great, plenty of power.

sabre1205

Hay Mustang lovers, I am at the sanding stage and I have read that its taking alot of elbow grease
to get it done
Well, this is what I am using
1. I got a 6 inch sanding wheel from an auto parts store and I use it for the grind down to within
1/16 of a inch
2. Then I am using a power sander that I got from Home Depot( see below) and I have not
had any problems with the sanding part. Got it all ready for filler and glassing in about 3 hours
Just though I would let you guys know there is an better way than elbow grease
Sabre1205

Black & Decker
Mouse Sander/Polisher with GelMax

Model MS550GH

mikemedic2

Thanks Sabre.
I have a combo disk belt sander and a palm sander also plus I have been using the razor plane with great fast result's. Like was said here earlier I have my blade less than a 1/16 out and cut(plane) on a slight angle and it has worked wonders. I just used it to taper the ends of the spar doublers and it
worked great.
I am just starting on the wings now and have finished the stab with sheeting, the rudder is built and tappered and the fin structure is built but I plan on adding nav lights and they won't be in till next week so I have to wait to sheet it.[&o]

mike

bull51

Hi all,


Anyone think about using or is using a servo for the retractable tailwheel steering instead of a yoke set-up? I finally got my radio gear and yoke installed, but I'm not happy with the performance of the yoke. I was thinking about putting a mini servo where the yoke is, which would be hooked to the rudder servo with a Y, and hooked to the tailwheel the same as the yoke would be. Thanks for the input!

bull

zope_pope

I'll probably use a servo on the tail wheel. I have a hs-81 that needs a home.

skyriter

Mounting the retract gear - and find when I set the toein to what I think I need, the back of the wheel sits quite high, meaning that the front has to go deeper into the wing. Has anyone got some pictures that show how deep the wheel well is and also what depth of the rib is where the air ram sits. Using Robart 605 retracts and 653 Struts with Robart 3 1.4 wheels. Picture from the side showing the wheels in retracted position, as well as close up of the wheel well would sure help.

Have looked at most of the pictures in this forum and do not see anything that shows what I need.

Thanks in advance.

Bruce

SVX

I just mounted mine and found the same thing, though I am using different retracts and struts. I
chose to drop the rear of the retract down 1/8" which makes the tire sit just under the rib in front
and in the back. The trade off was that the wheel when down will sit farther back than illustrated
on the plan. This could provide a problem of nosing over as the wheel is closer to the CG. It
was a gamble and I'll see if it will pay off. I had to do something as I am fitting a 3-3/4 robart in
the wing and covering it with a gear door.

Live Wire

Well this thread is not getting away this easy! I just lost all my 51 pics [:@] Thanks to some to SOME LOW life scum that think it is great fun to HACK his way in to RCU.
Well where there is a will there is a way

mikemedic2

What happened??

bull51

That's not good. Hackers need to get a life.

On a lighter note, I got that tail wheel servo hooked up, I'll try to post some pics of it. I am much happier with a servo instead of the yoke.


bull

Live Wire

Well what happened I lost evey thing on my PC and have to rebuild it along with every thing on it .
I am just a PC junky not a GU RU. did not get it backed up from last time around[:@]
LIVE AND LEARN[sm=drowning.gif]

Live Wire

Missing some covering but starting againon PC.
Some thing still screwed up[:@]

Live Wire

Well P 51 Red Tail?

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

Lookin good, Outlaw.

mikemedic2

Question for you guy's, I am still trying to figure out what to power my stang with, There are many option's, one thought was a RCV120 but they are quite pricey[X(], but it does seem to have a lot going for it. Loads of torque to turn a 3 or 4 blade. Behind the prop starting and the all important fit's inside the cowl.
So was just wondering if anyone has had any experience with one? I know a large majority are going with a OS 120 and the YS 110 was mentioned quite often, but I like to be different.[8D]
Thanks
mike

zope_pope

If you want to be real different, how bout a turbo prop? haha.

I too was considering the RCV120, but i haven't heard much about it and have had great experience with YS. If anyone could shed some light, it'd be really interesting.

Mustang1964

Outlaw:
Is the radiator door functional? If so, could you give us some pics on the set up?
Mustang1964

Live Wire

Mustang1964
I was going to make it functional but change my mind. It would be real simple with incorperation with tail wheel retract , that way it would be closed in flight. I spent to much time on the gear doors to get them to open and close and lost where I was at with what I wanted to do
Will try to get some pics of wells and doors when I put the gear back in after I finish covering it.
And I am putting a YS 120 FS in it they say to use the largest motor recomended for the plane and I always over shoot the size Larry K

saramos

I have an RCV 90SP installed in my TopFlite Spitfire. I am currently undecided as to going with the 120SP or electric on my P-51. The 90SP was a tight fit in the Spitfire and I still needed to cut two holes in the cowl. One small one for the needle valve, and another about 1/4" wide by 1 1/4" long to allow clearance for the throttle arm. The 120 is a bit larger in diameter, but so is the cowl on the P-51. If you go with the RCV, I would strongly suggest also going with an aftermarket fiberglass full cowl. Cooling is the other issue. To resolve this, I ended up adding a small electric ducted fan to exhaust the hot air out the cowl. Because the glow plug is so close to the prop, and to eliminate the need for another hole, I also went with a home brew onboard glow system. All of this really used up all the real estate in the cowl. A side benefit to all this stuff being installed forward of the firewall is that I was able to ballance the plane with a 1 oz. spinner weight. I may change it to a 2 oz weight to move the CG forward just a touch more.

Scott