SVX

I thought I had it myself but after thinking of anything I could do the only thing I'm left with is
down sizing to a Dave Brown foam tire. The Robart I have now is 1-1/8 thick and I was able to
get it 1/16 below the wing sheeting. What I realized is that when retracted my 85 degree retracts
where slanted inward like a focke wolf's. In order to get the tire in the wing I had inadvertently
changed the mounting of the retract. The Dave Brown tire is 7/8 inch which is perfect save one
thing, they don't make a 3-3/4" tire only a 3-1/2". So I lose my scale look but I will have my
doors. Ironically it could have turned out perfectly if I'd have bought the 90 degree retracts. [&:]

Live Wire

SVX
Looks like you had the same problems thanks. I am going to figure this out one way or another. Where there is a will there is a way Looks like the wing is to thin or the gear is to thick[]

Neverland

Bull 51, thats correct. I Opted for this route because frankly I doubted my First building ability, and I didn't want to waste all that effort only to have her torque roll on me on take-off
.....and the fact that after attempting to glass a scrap peice of wood and in turn the carpet in the dining room and my new shirt fo work I was "advised" by my fiance that it probably wasn't the best time to keep "trying"... LOL

Neverland

The flight went well, the wind was blowing a steady 10 to 15 km wind and I was using a 13.5x8 bolly. The Magnum definately has the grunt to pull it. (I weighed her again after the Alu spinner, 16x8 master airscrew prop and serviced robarts 605. this time she cam in just under 5 kg, 11.02 pounds. ) With the 16x8 I should be able to fly comfortably just under half throttle But will definately have to watch out for the Hard Left yank on rollout...

SVX

That's the way I feel. Ive been messing with this wing for weeks trying to get it all in but with the retracts I have, it's just not gonna fit. But I want those inner doors enough that I will trade a little wheel size to get it.

tlgibson97

Can some of you guys post your fuel system setups? I would like to know how you have your tank mounted and fuel line routing. I have had some trouble with the reliability of my fuel system.

The first setup I tried I had a refueller valve in line between the tank and the carb. After I had a dead stick into a tree on the maiden flight (look in this thread around the end of September, Begining of October for pics) I decided to rework the fuel system. I shortened all the lines as much as possible and removed the valve to eliminate and restrictons. I now have a separate line for refuelling instead of T'ing into the carb feed line.

After I rebuilt the wing from the crash I took it out again for its third maiden. Everything was going pretty good and I was working on geting it trimmed out when the engine died. I managed to glide it in for a rough but relatively safe landing (bent the landing gear wires on a bounce). Wasn't too bad considering it was the first time landing.

I messed with it on the ground and richened the engine some more (OS 91fx). It kept running rough and dieing from mid range on so I richened it up some and it seemed ok. I went to take it back out for another go but every time I tried to taxi it would just nose over (thats when I noticed the bent gear). So, Ibent the gear wires back straight (enough) and tried to start it but it wouldnt start. What now I thought. Just kept acting like no fuel was getting there so I tried priming it and still couldnt get any fuel. I advised myself the gremlins were out to get me so I chose to pack it up and diagnose earlier. I assumed a line had come off in the tank or something.

Got home and pulled the tank and found the the feed line was almost completely severed at the attach point on the tank. Problem found.

The thing is... How do I prevent that from happening again? At the moment, I only have the tank held in by foam squeezed in around it without any type of mechanical fasteners. All the lines are running through the firewall through a larger hole coming through the engine mount. I tried shortening the amount of brass tube protruding from the stopper in case the fuel line was being cut by that. I dont know if I should have shortened it or installed a larger brass tube long enough for the tube to extend through the firewall.

If anyone has any suggestions I would be glad to hear them. This was my first kit and I didnt see any directions on the best way to install this stuff so I just did it the best I knew how.

sabre1205

I have setup the inline fuel valve as just a filler. The fuel tank has three lines, one for fuel feed, one for vent and one for fill. I just plugged the the line off of the fuel filler so that it will fill only

Sabre1205

bull51

I've never heard of extending the brass tubes through the fire wall. But, then again I'm relatively new at this.You do have a pressure line from muffler to tank, right? If not, that may solve your problem. Or, I would make sure the tank is not moving around, attatch new fuel lines, reset all the needle valves in the engine (per instructions), then try running it again and make sure there are no air bubbles going to the carb. If you see bubbles, you have a leak.

Hope this helps,

bull

BentMetal

I flew my TF P-51 for 10 years with a single aileron servo and the stock ball-link, been using single servos for ailerons since the 70's and never had a problem. I would attribute any crash to improper building techniques, pilot error and at the very end way down there, say the last 5 percent mechanical failure. When it's mechanical failure refer back to #1 building errors.

mikemedic2

Gibbs, I have not gotten as far as the fuel lines yet, still glueing the wrong parts together[:@], but if your line was severed coming off the brass tube just try and make sure that the line comes off the tube straight and is not pinched, the line needs to come off the brass then it can be bent. If it was cut it either got pinched placing the tank or pushing the fuel line on the brass tube, have done that one myself on other planes. Good luck sorting it out and be sure to test run it at home before you fly.
mike

bull51

BentMetal,


From my own experience, I dont like the single aileron servo. Not just for the possibility of a failure, regardless of mechanical or building techniques, but for performance purposes. One servo operating one control surface is more likely to stand up to more abuse or poor craftsmanship. With the way this kit is set up, there is a lot of push rod between the servo and the aileron. Shortening that distance can only better the operation of that surface, IMO. Those who do not belive so and can throw away $1,00.00, take the risk. As for me, rather be safe than sorry!

bull

sabre1205

I have had this single servo setup in an Ultra Sport 60 for over ten years and have not had any problems The only modification is that it is mounted close to the spar so that the connection wont pop off and there has not been any evidence of that happening
You really dont need a bunch of throw with these high preformace airplanes

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Hey RC outlaw & SVX,

Gear doors and robart wheels that fit in the wheel wells can be done!! If you back throught the thread, a fair way now, you wil see that i go through how i got my gear to sit in the wheel wells correctly and are at the right angles etc. i also have WORKING inner and outer gear doors on my 1/7 TF P-51B. I have the Robart 85deg retacts with robostruts and the 3 1/2" robart wheels as well.

I have been overseas with work for 4 months now and head home in about 4 days where i'm busting to get back to my 'stang and finish her. can take more pics then for you guys too if needed.

The major mod i did to get this all in and working is that i dropped the height of the retract bearers during wing constuction the max i could ( and then some). The one thing i would do next time, and still should do it now is use air cylinders to operate the inner doors and not the electronic sequencer i decided to use. it was alot harder to setup than what i thought it was going to be.

I don't see any reason why outer doors cannot be fitted, if your legs don't sit down far enough, make doors out of aluminium and give then a slight curve to make it sit a bit better. i did this for my WM Zero and it transforms the model so much. looses alot of that "toy" look abot the landing gear. I still don't like the zero's gear setup which is why it was so important for me to get the doors/legs looking right on mine.

thanks

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Well while i'm at it, a mate back home snaped a few pic's on my stang i brought out for static display a few days before leaving and so i only got the photos a few weeks ago.

She is almost finished, the pilot seat need to be install and the pilot restrained plus finish detailing the cockpit, flight controls painted, finish painting some outstanding items, guns painted and installed, and all the equipment installed. The Fw190 is a CMPro it i bought to run all the gear in with. that inclused servos, batteries, engine etc...

All markings and insignias are airbrushed (bar the individual kill markings) with the help of gary at getstencils.com excellent stencils. Still toying with the idea of installation of a landing light

thanks

tlgibson97

I have 3 lines running nto my tank. The feed, vent, and filler. I guess my main question is how do you hold the tank into the airplane? The tank I am using is smaller than the hole it is going into (14oz tank I think). Around the tank I have been just squeezing foam in between the tank and the edges and that is all thats holding it in. Is there a better way to mount the tank?

SVX

Hey ticketec, welcome back. I can't speak for RC Outlaw but the reason I can't get mine to work
is the retracts I bought. I have the 533's which have the air cylinder towards the wing tip. So
when I dropped the retract the air cylinder quickly ran into the top of the number 5 rib which due
to the dihedral and wing chord taper is much less than if I had to trim the number 4 rib having
purchased regular style retracts. At this point I am okay with the foamy tires, they weigh hardly
anything. Love your gear door set up, thanks f or your input. SVX

Live Wire

SVX
Well my problem was when I built the plane it started out with mechanical retracts and the mounting is to high and I am going to have to make some serious changes to use the Robart gear[:@] and to top every thing else I layed the wing on something and made a dent in the top[:@] To many Irons in the fire at one time.
Larry K

chalre

ticketec,

Nice job with the main gear doors. I have yet to complete mine. I have gone with the century jet retracts that are scale for this model. I have also gone with 3 1/2" wheels as well. Where did you get the main "wheel" doors from? I have also attached a few pics from my P-51b as well.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks guys,

I have to confess that putting all the doors on this model use up a considerable amount of the total build time. eg added a fair bit more work to the build but i think it's worth it at the end of the day.

Hey chalre, Your model is looking great! have you flown it yet?

I made the inner doors myself. I layed up the glass part of the doors during the build and the I borrowed the idea from John Cole's mod thread on Rcscalebuilder for the "details". i was going to make a vac form mold, but thought it was too much work for just one model. if you go to pages 24,25, and 29 i explain how i did them. Just make sure you don't alter the curve of the gear door when you glue in the detail in because i had to cut the detail free and start again on one of my doors as she flattened out and wasn't siting right on the wing anymore.

Thanks

chalre

ticketec,

You know I recall seeing this post sime time ago. Unfortunately I am at the end stages of my build and have to get a little more creative in manufacturing my rear and main doors.

The plane is ready to go minus balancing, throws, and engine breakin. What do you think your plane will weigh when everything is said and done? What engine are you going to run. My plane weights 11.3 lbs dry and I have a ys91 ac as my power plant. I do not anticipate it being a rocket, but scale flight is probably more likely. As you can imagine, I am a little nervous about the first flight. I trust my building, but it is weighing more than I originally anticipated.

Do you know if any has flown a 12 lb plane with a ys 91? Just curious as to how it performed.

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I think you'll do ok, if you're careful with prop selection.

I have a Sig 4*60 on floats that weighs a lot- 12 pounds, dry. It has a wing loading of around 30 oz per square foot. I run a Magnum 91 four stroke, which I'm sure does not have the power of the YS. She turns 10,000 on the ground with a 14x6 Master Airscrew K series prop. The Thrust/HP software says this is good for just under 11 pounds of static thrust and around 56 mph.

That works good for the 4*, with it's low speed, "turbulated" airfoil, but I wouldn't want those numbers on a warbird. Too slow. I would try to prop for at least 65 mph, more if I could.

I haven't started construction on mine, yet, but I bought a Magnum 91 two stroke, and I'll be propping to get around 85-90 mph. I have crashed enough warbirds to be able to say with some confidence that when it comes to fighters, speed is your friend. Turning downwind with insufficient ground speed has caused most of my losses.

chalre

Mustang.

I appreciate the reply. I think that I will be fine, but I would like some speed to give it more if an awe effect. I am plannin on using a 14 x 10 MA Schimitar, which should be a good prop for lift and speed. I will know once she hits the air, which hopefully will be in the next few weekends. I personally have never used a YS and I am not sure that the extra power that is marketed, is just that, marketing. YS claims that the 91ac will turn a prop 400-700 times more than a saito 100. We shall see. I have a saito 100 on my Hangar p-40 and it scoots. Then again, the H9 only weights around 8 pounds....

zope_pope

Let me tell you,

A YS engine is not just hype or marketing. my 140dz will outperform a saito 180 any day. Read up on their supercharging technique, and you'll see why.

On another note...

I am about to attach my stab and my fin to the fuse, but I can't find that darned stab torque rod thing for the elevators. Does anyone have any ideas, or do I need to put the build on hold until top flite can send one out to me. (its 8 bucks for one part!!)

Neverland

Took her out on the weekend in all her attire, weighing 5 kg. CG was set around 98mm. Rollout was really a non event. It took about 1/2 rudder to hold her straight when pushing past haf throttle, lift off was about 3/4 throttle. took off about 40 metre down the runway.
She flew beautifully being pulled by the 16x8. The Magnum ran flawlessly without skipping a beat.( I even forgot to attatch the tank pressure line on the second flight . Didn't notice until I went to fillup for the 3rd [:-] )
One Thing I found is that anywhere from 1/2 to full throttle I had to feed copious amounts of down trim to hold her level. Do you guys think I need more down thrust? or could it be a wing incidence issue?? or even move the cg forward\.

zope_pope

Its flying right. You trim an airplane for a certain airspeed. its pretty neato to experiment with while flying full scale. If you trim for 90 knots, it will fly 90 knots regardless of power setting. if you give it more power it will climb at 90 knots, if you pull the power, it will dive at 90 knots. good stuff.

Anyhow, glad to hear she is well behaved. I have set myself a deadline for my build (2007 Warbirds over the rockies), so I need to get to buidling. I hit a snag when i couldn't find my torque stab assembly thing. Oh well, I may improvise rather than ordering another. I hope all is well with everyone!