jeffk464

I think if you want to go gas, you should get the giant scale mustang and put a good 50cc in it.

Live Wire

I built the plastics from balsa then I glassed the inside[:@]and the glass will not set up.
well it is not done by a long shot but the Red Tial will make it

Live Wire

more
and a Ziroli P 38 on the way

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Hi Cpig,

Thanks, I followed the plans and used my disc sander to sand the front of the chin block flush with the fuse sides. As mention before the manual is not concise therefore I rely on build threads and everyone's expertise when I get stuck.

Cheers,

Gord.

hornetcv64

Hey Outlaw, is that an inverted 120? Very good looking aircraft. I am in the process of setting the fuel tanks and getting the lines hooked up prior to glassing the airframe.

Live Wire

hornetcv64
It sure is , its an old YS 120. And thanks for the complement. Still have a lot of detaling to do but I am working on about 5 projects at one time to keep from getting burned out on one.
Larry K

hornetcv64

Gotcha. Have an OS 120 4 stroke waiting to go into mine. Still retrofitting the fuel tanks in behind the firewall per one of the suggestions that I got from Mr. Hunt on this forum. Having a heck of a time mounting them in there so that the fuel comes out below the Carb feed. Once I get that tackled I will be very close to the prep for glassing the airframe.
What did you use for your fuel tank, tanks,? I am putting two 6 oz tanks together. Like I said, the info that I got previously has been a tremendous help.
Joe

Live Wire

Well one thing about the YS motors you can put the tank any where with the positive feed pump. I just slaped a 16 oz in the nose and run normal feed and fill. No pressure because you do not need it.
Larry K

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I was considering a pumped OS 120, but I'm now leaning more towards that new YS 110 for mine.

hornetcv64

Did not consider the YS at all for my build. Basically I did some research and asked a few of the local hobby shops what they recommended. Ended up with the OS 120 w/out pump. They said that I would be very satisfied with its performance and would definately not be lacking in the power department. Guess that I will have to just wait and see what happens.

ticketec

My Feedback: (2)

I also when with the pumped O.S so i didn't have to worry about the tank location.

Thanks

hornetcv64

Had I known it was gonig to be any sort of issue I would have gone with the pumped version as well.

Live Wire

hornetcv64
Looks like we can all learn from each other The main thing is we use what we can get and afford. Just the ease of being able to mount the tank any position and not worrying about fuel starvation. Just think you can mount your engine in any possition you choose and not worry about tank level to carb .
Larry K

hornetcv64

Point well taken. Have been taking a little time off to give myself a rest from the build anyway. At first it was get home from work, eat and then sit down at the workbench. Before I knew it, it was almost 2 in the morning. Really enjoying it but, I needed a break. It has now been over a week since I have really sat down to accomplish anything on it and am ready to get going again.

chalre

I am using a YS 91 which has plenty of power. Utilizing a pump makes things much easier without worry of fuel issues. You can always buy an aftermarket pump for around $30.00 for your OS 120. Perry makes some great pumps. You can find them on the e-net by typing "perry pumps" either on google or on tower hobbies web site.

Flying Beagle

My retracts are finally installed !!!

After 32 hours of actual build time with sanding and cutting and measuring and dremeling and sanding some more and altering the mounting rails and dremeling some more and adding additional ribs and sanding some more, my retracts are finished......

I chose the Robart 531 Retracts with 663 struts, which allowed me to utilize the “scale� 4 inch tires. The 531’s are the “thinnest� retracts that I found, which I had hoped would provide the best chance to get everything deep enough into the wing to allow for fully closing doors. The 531’s place the air cylinder towards the rear of the retract, which allows the strut pivot point to be closer to the center of the retract unit and thereby achieve an overall height of only 1 inch. I debated between purchasing the 85 and 90 degree retracts and I really think either the 530’s or the 531’s would have worked with this dihedral, because it looks to me like my struts are about 87 degrees from horizontal…..

Flying Beagle

With the air cylinder pointing towards the wing tip, Rib#5 really get hacked away, actually all the way. So I added a pair of ribs in between Rib#5 & Rib#6, which then required longer mounting rails to bridge Ribs #4, #5 and #5.5. I sank the mounting rails as deep as I could go, which went so far as to totally remove a small section of the Rib#5. I added some ply to create a “box� around the retracts and also added corner balsa pieces for strength. The retracts are very, very close to the wing skin, and I may have to shim them up just a bit to avoid a small “hump� on the top surface.....

Flying Beagle

I mentioned in a previous post that I “sanded� 1/8 inch from each side wall of the 4 inch Dave Brown Lite wheels, but I still had to remove quite a bit from Rib#2. I also moved the location of the Rib#1’s in towards the wing centerline to accommodate the large diameter wheels. With major cross sections of the ribs removed, I added three “stringers� to support and hold the ribs in place and also to provide something adequate to keep the wing skin at the intended shape.

mikemedic2

nice job beagle wish I had your talent and patiences. That looks like a nice and strong mount.

Mustang1964

Great Job Beagle:
Thank you for the pics. Now I see where I need to beef up my wings.
The pics are a great help.
Mustang1964

Mustang Fever

My Feedback: (2)

I think this series of photos just saved me about 30 days work. Outstanding!!

saramos

Great series of photos and descriptions. This really looks like the way to go with the 530 series retracts. Thanks!

Scott

zope_pope

Nice Job with the retracts. If only mine looked half as good.

Flying Beagle

thanks for the compliments guys, I spent about two thirds of my time on the left retract, the right hand side went much quicker

if any one could post close up photos of their inner doors, hinges, actuation methods, etc that would be great

thanks
Beagle

gwong

My Feedback: (1)

Gents,

I have a question regarding the nose slope, it seems too steep as comparison to the P51D walk around book. My firewall has the correct amount of down thrust, My motor mounting is spot on, the abs bottom part of the cowl when taped in position is correct, meaning the bottom lines up with the bottom of the chin block. I am using the Dave Brown 4" P51 style spinner and it lines up as expected. Measuring from the top of the spinner and drawing a horizontal line across the fuse...it matches the plans exactly, I than lined up the balsa side of the cowl and the slope looks way to steep...Here is a pic...is this normal or am I way off.



Thanks,

Gord.