Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
#2527
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
LOOKS GOOD Aaron mine is getting there one of the things that i did with mine is made the air scoop opperational
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
#2528
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
BTW guys, a bit O.T. but I've put up a new thread on my P-47 build. Have a look if you care to!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9654169
Regards,
G
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=9654169
Regards,
G
#2530
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
ORIGINAL: SIX GUNS
LOOKS GOOD Aaron mine is getting there one of the things that i did with mine is made the air scoop opperational
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
LOOKS GOOD Aaron mine is getting there one of the things that i did with mine is made the air scoop opperational
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
#2531
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
ORIGINAL: SIX GUNS
LOOKS GOOD Aaron mine is getting there one of the things that i did with mine is made the air scoop opperational
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
LOOKS GOOD Aaron mine is getting there one of the things that i did with mine is made the air scoop opperational
so that the rear cooler door works with air speed
SIX GUNS,,
Thats awsome, would you be able to share the pics and the way that you have achieved it? That is exactly what I want to do to mine.
Cheers,
John
#2536
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Looks terrific Aaron! What was your specific technique on flush rivets and screw heads. Did you make a special tube in a soldering iron for these (one old method)? What are you using for filler? I just ordered some more Sig Epoxolite two-part putty (like bondo with sawdust probably). I noticed how well you smoothed the front windscreen to the fuse, and gun fairings, e.t.c. The lighter fillers tend to crack away in some applications. Thanks..
#2537
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Hi Riddle, thanks man. I used the old melt them in with a brass tube method like you talked about. With the screws I used a brass tube with a flat piece of brass soldered in the middle of it.
I use bondo and bondo professional 2 part galzing putty.
Aaron D.
I use bondo and bondo professional 2 part galzing putty.
Aaron D.
#2538
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
My rx batteries are always velcro to wood and zip tied in place and hearing stories of sudden power loss reminds me to do that on every plane that leave my hands RTF. Another thing I have been doing is using 5 cell rx packs on a plane with more than 4 servos and servo extensions.
#2541
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
Completed assy requires six progressive brass tube sizes.
The barrels are made-up of three brass tubes, the smallest sticking just a hair past the next two which are flush to each other, at the muzzle end. (smallest also extends out the back as the mounting peg.) the barrel is soldered together and "tinned" on the entire outside to keep it silver.
Bushings are the next two size tubes @ 4"-5" long, soldered together then filed or dremeled flat on the "working end". Once flat, cut the notch with a cut-off wheel (or similar) in the "working end" then cut the bushing off the remaining tube assy. Repeat as req. Soldering two longer length tubes first allows you to hod 'em while you work.
Outer shrouds (black) are just the next tube size.
The barrels are made-up of three brass tubes, the smallest sticking just a hair past the next two which are flush to each other, at the muzzle end. (smallest also extends out the back as the mounting peg.) the barrel is soldered together and "tinned" on the entire outside to keep it silver.
Bushings are the next two size tubes @ 4"-5" long, soldered together then filed or dremeled flat on the "working end". Once flat, cut the notch with a cut-off wheel (or similar) in the "working end" then cut the bushing off the remaining tube assy. Repeat as req. Soldering two longer length tubes first allows you to hod 'em while you work.
Outer shrouds (black) are just the next tube size.
#2543
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I sanded the plane down lightly with 800 grit sanpaper to give it a slightly weathered look, then I put on my dry transfer stencils. Next i'll give the whole plane a dirty wash to give it a little more weatered look.
Aaron D.
Aaron D.
#2544
My Feedback: (15)
RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
CGAV8R,
Nice looking work! That bird has REALLY come along
Once you get all of your stencils on you should think about clearcoating the whole plane, it doesn't have to be fuel proof at this point, just a light coat to save all of your stencils and work up now.
If you then do all of your weathering with water base acrylics like the Tamiya color paints you'll have the ability to "erase" any mistakes with alchohol or windex and a sponge.
they have a huge selection and you can use their clear as a vehicle for chalk dust or graphite "fixing"with the same erasability. They thin down nicely with water or alchohol for making washes or spraying too.
When it's all done and your'e happy with the result then do your fuel proof clear coat to protect it all.
Just a note/trivia FYI FWIW....in your #3 pic you have a camera access stencil, but you dont have the panel/hatch for the access or the huge 207mm side looking recon camera that the label refers to. It, the camera, would be more or less an 18" diameter peice of glass just about in the rear center of the port side star/bar(see center right side view in pic 3 below). The only cameras that a std P-51D had were the gun cameras. The lenses were on the front of the wing, R&L, just inboard of the wing taper break. "GUN CAMERA" and/or "CAMERA" with " ACCESS" centered below was behind the lenses, outboard slightly & just forward of the gear door on wing bottom. camera was accessed through the gear well. (I'll Post a pic here in the morn when I'm back at my computer (of the gcam stuff and the recocam...not the paint)) done, last edit
Nice looking work! That bird has REALLY come along
Once you get all of your stencils on you should think about clearcoating the whole plane, it doesn't have to be fuel proof at this point, just a light coat to save all of your stencils and work up now.
If you then do all of your weathering with water base acrylics like the Tamiya color paints you'll have the ability to "erase" any mistakes with alchohol or windex and a sponge.
they have a huge selection and you can use their clear as a vehicle for chalk dust or graphite "fixing"with the same erasability. They thin down nicely with water or alchohol for making washes or spraying too.
When it's all done and your'e happy with the result then do your fuel proof clear coat to protect it all.
Just a note/trivia FYI FWIW....in your #3 pic you have a camera access stencil, but you dont have the panel/hatch for the access or the huge 207mm side looking recon camera that the label refers to. It, the camera, would be more or less an 18" diameter peice of glass just about in the rear center of the port side star/bar(see center right side view in pic 3 below). The only cameras that a std P-51D had were the gun cameras. The lenses were on the front of the wing, R&L, just inboard of the wing taper break. "GUN CAMERA" and/or "CAMERA" with " ACCESS" centered below was behind the lenses, outboard slightly & just forward of the gear door on wing bottom. camera was accessed through the gear well. (I'll Post a pic here in the morn when I'm back at my computer (of the gcam stuff and the recocam...not the paint)) done, last edit
#2547
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
ORIGINAL: CRJDriver
Arron, beautiful work sir! Where did you get your stencils? I hve them for my 1/5 scale Mustang but would like to add thm to my 1/7 scale as well. Thanks for your help!
Chris
Arron, beautiful work sir! Where did you get your stencils? I hve them for my 1/5 scale Mustang but would like to add thm to my 1/7 scale as well. Thanks for your help!
Chris
#2548
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RE: Top Flite 1/7 P-51 Build
I finished the weathering. First a dirty wash, then a little airbrush work. I didn't have to clear the dry rub transfers first. They were pretty hard to remove, so I figured they would hold up to the dirty wash. They did great, no problems with them at all.
The last pic is my buddy Tom checking out the plane. He is the neighborhood wild turkey.
Aaron D.
The last pic is my buddy Tom checking out the plane. He is the neighborhood wild turkey.
Aaron D.