kiswa

My Feedback: (4)

Hey everyone, I'm looking to get a SIG SE sometime very soon (I hope) and I've been trying to come up with mods to be done on this kit. I have looked all over this forum and not found much at all.

Here's what I'm thinking about: more rudder and elevator (counterbalanced), more space on the inboard area of the elevators for more rudder movement, wing tips like those on the BTE Venture 60, and I guess that's all I've come up with so far.

Could anyone who's made a mod to this kit please let me know what mods you've used, and why? I'd like to learn what all is possible before I even get the kit.

Thanks!

tychoc

kiswa: You must not be using the right words in you search There're tons of threds out there with mods to the SSE.

The most commen ones are:

-Sheeting the turtle deck.
-Adding a cowl.
-Making the rudder bigger
-Use sullevan tail wheel assembly
-tint the canopy
-change out the landing gear for more prop. clearance.
-Add a tank hatch for easy access to the tank, or modify so that it can be removed
-Split ailron/flaps
-etc.etc.

Here's my build thread: [link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2716619/anchors_2716619/mpage_1/key_/anchor/tm.htm#2716619]First build - Sig SE started[/link]

Good luck. It's a fun plane to build. I'm almost done.

-tychoc

DamonTX

This is what I've been working on pretty steady for the last month. It's almost covered now and will hopefully be flying next weekend. The mods should be pretty obvious from the pics except the tailwheel that is supported by the fuse rather than rudder. If anyone decides to do a twin mod, I've got some good pics of the construction of the nacelles.

kiswa

My Feedback: (4)

I guess not. I swear, I searched before I posted though.

Got any tips on performing any of those mods you listed tychoc?

That twin mod is impressive. You'll have to let me know how it flies DamonTX! The wings look nice fully sheeted like that.

OverTheEdge

My Feedback: (1)

I took the top half of the verticle fin and fixed it to the rudder as a counter balance and added a piece of 5/8 to the top of the rudder assembly for strength.
Dubro landing gear.
Sullivan tail wheel.
Rear mounted elevator servo.
Pull Pull rudder.
Fuel tank hatch.

I definately recommend the counter balance on the rudder vs just making the rudder bigger. I've had the fortune of comparing the two mods and the counter balance is much more effective.

Click on my gallery for pics. [8D]

kiswa

My Feedback: (4)

Thanks!

Keep 'em coming guys (and gals).

DamonTX

In case anyone is interested, here's one I did back in 1998 or maybe 1999. I just blew up the plans 125% and built it exactly like the original. The only difference was the wings weren't tapered since I had already built the kit I was going by, I didn't realize untill it was too late that I didn't have the outlines for the other ribs. I used a ST 3000 and it flew great for 2 years that is until I wrecked it, I think I flew it out of range because the controls stopped responding during a far away banked turn.

daven

My Feedback: (1)

If I were to build another, I'd mount the engine sideways (engine head at 9 O'clock from the front). This would help get the exhaust off the wing. You would just need to trim the cheek cowl to do this, pretty easy fix. Tinted canopy does look nice, then you don't have to add the weight of a pilot.

Dave

kiswa

My Feedback: (4)

That reminds me, I left that off my list. I was planning on mounting the engine sideways and building up a cowl. Just to make it look cleaner than it does with the standard cheeks.

Could I get any opinions on the proposed mods I've listed? Especially the wingtips. It's mostly a cosmetic thing, but how will affect flight?

DamonTX

Kiswa, here's a pretty cool idea I tried out this time. I found a 3-view, sharpened it up in Photoshop and started experimenting with trim schemes. These are a few of the ones I came up with. The black, white & yellow one is a trim I used to use on a lot of experimental planes I built so I could see them well.

There's a cool mod in the marketplace you might want to check out. Someone has been selling a nice tapered wing and cowl for the SE. It's amazing how much better this plane looks with a cowl! [link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=94778[/link]

hookedonrc

kisway - Regarding your question on the wingtips - I would think that you would be reducing the roll rate by adding them. This may not be a concern of yours, but it is probably the result. Also, it is not real clear to me how many planes you have built previously. If, this is one of your first kit planes, I would stay with the stock tips, if not for any reason other than ease in covering. The SE was my first kit and I did some of the mods indicated, but kept the shape of the plane close to stock since I had not covered a plane before. Like I said, only my opinion. Here is the thread on mine if it helps:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_19...tm.htm#1914644

h@h racing

My Feedback: (1)

My mods are elevator and rudder, sheeted deck, balsa cowl and engine.

sparkee

I added 1" to the rudder, installed a lite ply plate and installed a Sullivan Tail Wheel in the tail. I threw out the nylon control rods and installed Red/Yellow Gold-N-Rod control rods for less temperature related changes. I'm using a Webra Speed 50 with a 12X4 prop and I have had a few prop strikes on my grass runway with the stock gear, not enough to be a problem, just a pain.

I picked up another kit that I plan on doing the counterbalance, more rudder space mods and pull pull for the rudder. I want to use a 4 stroke so I got a set of landing gear from TNT Landing Gear. He adds about 1.5" to the gear for additional prop clearance and makes them from a little stiffer grade of aluminum.