DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Is anyone currently building this kit? I've just opened the box, and am starting any time now. Was supposed to be today, but due to unexpected repair job(oops on my GreatPlanes EXTRA construction is postponed for a few evenings.
I've gathered pages of info over the last several months on this kit, and there is quite a bit one can do to lighten/strengthen this airframe out.
To power my EXTRA I accquired the BME50, which by most opinions seems to be the engine of choice for this size AC.
Construction looks straight forward, and for the basic airframe looks to be very standardized.
Hardware included in kit is outta here, I'm seeing RocketCity as the best for this application. Any comments on hardware?? Especially the tail-wheel ass'ly in kit, it's a joke, not bashing here, it really is funny. That was first clue.
Other then a few items that need addressing it looks to be quite a nice plane.

If you are currently building, or have first-hand exp building this plane, please share. Thanks

Ron S

My Feedback: (2)

Hi,

I finished one of these about 10 months ago, the XS version. I think you'll be happy with the kit. I went the Moki 2.1 route, and I'm not familiar with the BME50, so I can't help you with T/W questions.

Mine weighed in at 15 lbs 1 oz final weight. I built mine stock, but increased the size of the lightening holes, and added some more. If you want more weight out, alot of people have mentioned replacing the spruce spars with balsa, and stuff like that. Keep the model light.

You're right with the hardware. I replaced all of my hardware with what I'm used to using. I forget what tailwheel I used - it has a single black leaf-spring type support with spring pull-pulls on the tailwheel, going to the rudder horns.

I've heard of these kits flying anywhere from 14.5 to 18 pounds, with varying amounts of performance.

RC4RC

Here is a weight saver I used and mine is just fantastic with a ZDZ40
replace spruce spars with balsa. laminate carbon fiber on top of top spar and bottom of bottom spar. I used thin ca. these spars are covered again with the leading edge sheeting.

replace the 3/8 ply carry through spar. construct new one from 3/8 balsa sticks. ca carbon fiber on top of each stick and laminate sticks together with epoxy. put in clamp until dry. Take plywood spar to use as pattern and cut out your new one. Over a 1/4 # savings right there.

I also replaced all light ply in wing with balsa. (optional) small weight savings but it all adds up.

Real pricy for the weight saved BUT you can replace aluminum gear with composite gear. my composite weighed 9oz. vs aluminum ?

My mw300 finished at 14#3oz. since then I have added some doodads and it weighs 141/2 l

I guess I'm the only one that likes the mw tailwheel. light,simple ,strong and works great

Mendes

My Feedback: (1)

I'm currently covering my MW Extra. It was a really straightforward build. I tossed the MW tailwheel and installed a Sullivan, very light and very strong. I went the glow route because from my experience with Extra's I prefer the way they fly when they are lighter, but if you are really looking to have ulimited vertical and be able to perform 3D stuff then the BME 50 is a great choice. I am going to use the Hangar 9 turnbuckles for hardware but Rocket City is good also.

Don't waste your money on the ABS cowl and pants that are available from MW, I've seen them and they aren't pretty after 20 flights. There are many glass cowls available for this plane, I used Aeroglass.

DA2000

My Feedback: (2)

I've got the straight 300 kit and understand that the XS's rudder is larger. Could someone with a XS please give me the measurements of the rudder so I can enlarge mine?
Thanks.

Ron S

My Feedback: (2)

Lets see, the model is right behind me...

Rudder tip chord = 6.70"
Rudder height = 16.25"
Rudder counterbalance height = 3.00"
Rudder lowermost chord = 7.90"

HL length, from bottom of model to top of fixed fin = 13.25"
Fin upper chord = 4.25"
Fin lower chord (measured along top of aft turtledeck) = 6.80"

I reserve the right to be off by a smidgeon, in the dimensions...

DA2000

My Feedback: (2)

Thanks alot Ron.
JB

RC4RC

DA 2000
My airplane came from the straight kit also. On the tail feathers I enlarged them and redrew the counterbalnce type elevaters.
I covered the stick type construction with 1/4 contest balsa and sanded in the airfoil. This was for stab. & fin. The rudder and elevators I tapered the sticks then covered with 1/16 sheeting.
End result, nice airfoil type tail feathers.
Be careful with the balsa choice as extra weight here can result in noseweight.
If I was to do it again you could probable leave out some of the heavy spruce sticks in the stab and replace with balsa as the additional balsa airfoil covering adds lots of strength.

Ron Carl

Mendes

My Feedback: (1)

Check it out guys, I'm almost there...

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

What the heck is that white stuff around the plane? Is it already in Plane Heaven????

Jerry

Running and ducking for cover....

Mendes

My Feedback: (1)

It's not in plane heaven just yet, won't be long though...just after the first turn away from the pits. Uh oh shouldn't have used that Super Tigre 3000.

DGrant

My Feedback: (4)

Need opinions on hinges for the MW Extra...I'm almost there. I was thinking large Dubro's, I've used for years. Got the install down to science. Other ideas? Thanks.

Mendes, real nice plane. Very good job. What did you use for hinges?

MMallory

My Feedback: (1)

That cheap looking tail wheel has been working well on my plane for years now. I have one of the early versions without the airfoiled tail bits.

Mendes

My Feedback: (1)

I used the Robart Hinges that came with the kit. These things are tough, most of the IMAC guys I know only use the Robarts...even in their 40% planes. Good enough for them, good enough for me.


Rich.