Topflite p51 wing sheeting
#2
RE: Topflite p51 wing sheeting
There are a number of ways to accomplish this. The method I use is as follows:
True up the edges of the 3" sheets using a straight edge and a fresh #11 blade.
Glue up the 3" sheets into large enough witdths to make a sheet that will cover the wing from LE to TE. I've always used Alphatic resin. I've seen some suggest ambroid adhiesive (old style wood model glue) for this purpose. They say it sands easier than alphadic resin. You butt joint these together by butting the edges of one sheet to the next, and taping them together on one side. Then you flip it over and flex the two sheets so they form an inverted vee. You apply the glue along the joint and then lay them flat on a sheet of wax paper. Cover the joined sheets with wax paper and weight them down. I use books.
Once the sheets have all been glued up and cured, sand both sides smooth with 80 to 100 grit until the sheet is flat on both sides. Select the best side and sand smooth with finer paper up to 320 grit.
Now the skin is applied to the wing. I once again use alphatic resin for this. If your wing is a one piece wing that does not lay flat, Jig the wing with blocks and sticks for proper support, ensuring the proper dihedral and washout. Apply alphatic resin to the ribs and spars and any other structures that will come in contact with the skin. Apply the skin, and weight it down so that you have even and complete contact to the structure. I use bags filled with BB shot and various weights.
Once the glue is cured, trim as directed, remove the wing from the board, turn it over and jig it again inverted. Repleat the skinning process on the other side. Jigging the wing at this point is most critical. With one side sheeted, the wing is stiffer, but still has some give. Application of the second side of skin will pretty much set the final shape of the wing. Care taken jigging the wing will result in a true wing and more predictable slow speed and stall characteristics.
Scott
True up the edges of the 3" sheets using a straight edge and a fresh #11 blade.
Glue up the 3" sheets into large enough witdths to make a sheet that will cover the wing from LE to TE. I've always used Alphatic resin. I've seen some suggest ambroid adhiesive (old style wood model glue) for this purpose. They say it sands easier than alphadic resin. You butt joint these together by butting the edges of one sheet to the next, and taping them together on one side. Then you flip it over and flex the two sheets so they form an inverted vee. You apply the glue along the joint and then lay them flat on a sheet of wax paper. Cover the joined sheets with wax paper and weight them down. I use books.
Once the sheets have all been glued up and cured, sand both sides smooth with 80 to 100 grit until the sheet is flat on both sides. Select the best side and sand smooth with finer paper up to 320 grit.
Now the skin is applied to the wing. I once again use alphatic resin for this. If your wing is a one piece wing that does not lay flat, Jig the wing with blocks and sticks for proper support, ensuring the proper dihedral and washout. Apply alphatic resin to the ribs and spars and any other structures that will come in contact with the skin. Apply the skin, and weight it down so that you have even and complete contact to the structure. I use bags filled with BB shot and various weights.
Once the glue is cured, trim as directed, remove the wing from the board, turn it over and jig it again inverted. Repleat the skinning process on the other side. Jigging the wing at this point is most critical. With one side sheeted, the wing is stiffer, but still has some give. Application of the second side of skin will pretty much set the final shape of the wing. Care taken jigging the wing will result in a true wing and more predictable slow speed and stall characteristics.
Scott