solafein

Hi.

I have taken the plunge[sm=drowning.gif] and purchased my first kit, a Goldberg Tiger 60. I have been reading some of the posted tips and gained a wealth of helpful information, but I need help, besides my shrink, before I can continue. It has been mentioned that one needs to create a glue fillet at the joints. Am I literally supposed to brush wood glue along the wood to wood joints?[sm=confused.gif]

Be forewarned, I will be asking plenty of questions.

Thanks, in advance for your assistance, and for the wealth of information contained in the numerous threads I have read.

surf

This typically implies that there is ample glue in the joints. In other words, a 90 degree joint should have glue between the joined pieces and a single glue bead that joins both sides of the joint.

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

When you join the parts together make sure that some of the glue squezzes out of the joint, thus leaving a fillet of sort's. You do want to make sure that any slots where other parts are going into later on in construction are cleaned out prior to the glue setting up as it is tought to clean out these slot's after the glue has dryed. In all reality, just make sure that all your glue joints are good and tight and all will be okay. If you are using wood glue and not CA, make sure that you have plenty off clamps and weights. Good Luck, Dave

solafein

Thanks, that cleared things up nicely. What is funny is that people complain about how slow wood glue is. 110 degrees and low humidity makes for fast assembly. I just started yesterday and will probably be ready to cover by the end of the week, barring limited difficulties. Of course that estimate may be a result of too much heat, fumes and beer in the garage.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

EscapeFlyer

My Feedback: (1)

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Ah yes, Like many first-time kit builders, you will learn that during the early stages of construction things seem to go quickly because noticable changes are taking place (IE, yesterday there was nothing on the table and today there's a wing) But the latter stages - adding cap strips, adding pushrods, sanding, etc will result in hours of work that show little if any accomplishment.

So avoid thinking of a goal timewise (Like Next Weekend) or you may find yourself rushing to get things done and making mistakes by rushing things.

Enjoy the build, and enjoy that beautiful bird!

tychoc

Ah, you need to apply the 20/80 rule. 80% of the work takes 20% of the time and the last 20% takes 80% of the time

Seriously though, having built my first kit a few months ago, it's just like MinnFlyer described above. Don't rush it and enjoy the process.

-tychoc

solafein

Your statements are playing out to be true. I can only do so much before all the stuff I use to hold things gets in the way.[&o] In using wood glue for this project, I figured that I would not be forced to slow down too much. I get up in the morning and build for three hours, go to work for eight hours, return home and build some more until I get tired enough to go to sleep. I am finding that my household duties and books are not lonely due to the amount of time it takes for this stuff to dry.[:@] It is going quickly, but it will take until whenever to be covering time.

The build is enjoyable, and I see myself tackling another project shortly.[>:] I just wish that I had went ahead and purchased an Ultimate kit as I really think this whole building thing is cool. It reminds me of prototyping circuit boards, without the math.

My problem is that my daughter does not want me flying "her" plane anymore.[:-] After I soloed, she wanted to learn to fly. She got upset when her instructor showed up and she could not fly as I had split the wing a little practicing the basic sequence.[] I am without a plane until I finish this one. Oh well, she goes back to school in a couple of days, and what she doesn't know, I won't get in trouble over.[>:]

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Something I often do is to use a combination of CA and wood glue. Take for example a Cap Strip on a rib. I add a tiny bit of Medium CA to each end, and one spot in the middle, then run a bead of wood glue keeping about 1/2" away from the CA (Actually, I do that in reverse order - lay two beads of wood glue, THEN add the CA so it doesn't have too much time to harden).

Now lay the piece in place, hold it for 20 seconds or so, and the CA will hold it in place while the wood glue dries. No pins, no clamps, no nuthin'

For something like the Goldberg Fuse sides, tack it all together with Medium CA, then go over all of the seams with wood glue

solafein

Well, I did not make my covering goal. I warped the wing with the weights I used to hold the trailing edge sheeting down.[:@] Last time I do that. It took me a couple of days to get the warp out, but it is straight again. I then proceeded to install the wing caps upside down.[:@] After fixing that little boo-boo I managed to finish the build portion last night without any additional errors.

This kit was an extremely easy and enjoyable build. I would not hesitate to recommend it to any first time builder.

I am having a little trouble getting the covering fire lit.[sm=sleeping.gif] Every time I decide to go flying I have to go into the garage, past my Tiger 60, to get my trainer out. I keep having to move things out of the way and the next thing you know, I'm tinkering at the building board again. I guess the covering will be done sooner than later, as I will have to move everything out of my way to get my flight box.[:-]

Nine days from box to covering is pretty fast for a first time build but, most of that is due to the truckloads of useful information in this site, excellent quality and user friendly engineering of this kit. I think that I will take a little more time on my next kit, so as not to get burnt out. I just cannot decide on which will be my next. Definitely scale, probably a pattern/3D type, and definitely my first four stroke.[>:] Anyone got any opinions on a GP Giles 202 vs. Sig Hog Bipe vs. Goldberg Ultimate vs. Goldberg Super Chipmunk. I am swinging more toward the Ultimate, but can easily shift toward one of the others.

solafein

Covering is easy. I was prepared for the worst but, after reading MinnFlyer's article on covering, it is going smoothly.[8D] At this pace, I might maiden this thing by this weekend, further errors permitting.[>:] Thanks Mike.

tychoc

Here's a link to a thread I started asking about the Sig Hog v.s. the GP Ultimate:

[link=http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3044231/anchors_3044231/mpage_1/key_bipe%252Cultimate%252Ctychoc/anchor/tm.htm#3044231]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_3044231/anchors_3044231/mpage_1/key_bipe%252Cultimate%252Ctychoc/anchor/tm.htm#3044231[/link]

-tychoc

solafein

Not the place for this but we tried this at a dealer I worked at, wow.

Locked your keys in your car? Try this


If you lock your keys in the car and the spare keys are at home, call
someone at your home on your cell phone.
Hold your cell phone about a foot from your car door and have the other
person at your home press the unlock button of your key fob (clicker), holding it near the phone on their end. Your car doors will unlock. Saves someone from having to drive your keys to you.
Distance is no object. You could be hundreds of miles away, and if you can reach someone who has the other "remote" for your car, you can unlock the doors (or the trunk!).

Editor's Note *
It works fine! We tried it out, and it unlocked our car over a cell phone!)
Mike's Note *
I locked the car had my youngest daughter call me while I was far away from the car. I clicked open into the phone and I could hear the car doors unlock through her cell phone. My daughter confirmed that sure enough the doors opened.


I wonder if I could control my plane in this manner?

solafein

My wife explained her position on my spending so much time on my plane. Needless to say, a couple of days of work will be compressed into a week. At this point I have to finish the radio installation, motor and landing gear. After the talk with my wife, I spent the last couple of days helping various extended family members. I have set a target date of the tenth for my maiden, as the gentleman who will fly it is visiting family. I guess I will take the time to install control rods that are legal for MINIMAC basic. Do I have to run the 0.095in. diameter rods for ailerons as well, or can I get away with the rods that come with the kit? I could not find a specification in the online rules.

solafein

The plane is done and almost ready to fly. What I mean by almost is that I have a slight engine problem. I am using a Super Tigre 75 ringed motor that I salvaged from my crashed Ultra Stick. I disassembled it and inspected all the parts for damage. Finding that everything was good, I reassembled it, coated it with silicone oil, and stored it for a few months while I purchased and flew a trainer. I brought it back into service for my tiger 60. It runs great accept for the irritating habit of sputtering and dying when transitioning from high speed to idle. If I transition slowly, six to seven seconds, there is no problem. If I transition rapidly, as when at the top of a loop on the down leg, flame-out. Anything below half throttle can cause this reaction. I also need about a minute to warm the engine enough to idle properly. I ran one gallon of Omega 15% through the engine before the crash on the original glow plug. I installed a OS #8 glow plug when bringing it back into service and use the same type fuel. Should I go with a cooler plug? How about one with an idle bar? On-board glow? 30% fuel? A sludge hammer and then a quick trip to the hobby store for a Saito or YS? I really like this engine as it operated without these little psycho makers on the stick, but I am a little frustrated with the maiden coming this weekend.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

solafein, try posting your question in the Engines forum

solafein

I went ahead and flew it today.

I first burned off a tank in my trainer to work the jitters out.

The transition thing is irritating, I was putting around doing ground circles to get used to the ground handling and deadsville from fast idle to slow idle.[sm=punching.gif] Restarted it, and away I went.

It is a little fast on ground steering until the rudder takes over, then it smooths out well.[8D] A ground roll of about fifty feet was all that was required to have it take off by itself, and a smooth return turn to trim it out. Three clicks left and two down and I was zooming along.

Full throttle is interesting.[>:] My trainer takes about twenty seconds to go from one side of the field to the other, so I have a lot of time for trimming and thought. This thing makes you think well in advance. I would no sooner roll out of a turn before I was setting up for the other side, wow.[sm=spinnyeyes.gif]

My Kadet would only climb for forty feet or so vertically before I had to do something in the stall. When you guys talk about climbing until it is a little speck in the air, I always thought it was a figure of speech. Not.[>:]

I am very happy with this plane. It has rejuvenated my desire to fly, as I was getting bored on the trainer. Landing was even easier than with my Kadet, although I landed dead stick, transition stall cutting throttle at the edge of the runway.[:'(]

I feel like Mikey and a big bowl of Life cereal.[8D]

solafein

Engine problems are fixed. Now it is time to bring my skills to a level where I can fly this thing like it was designed. Having fun.

solafein

Interesting glitch has been haunting to me lately............stupid motor[sm=punching.gif].

I salvaged this engine off my lawn darted ultra stick[:'(]. Everything was peachy until I leaned out the bottom end after finishing the break in[X(]. This thing is an energizer bunny until it runs out of fuel. The carburetor barrel is completely closed and it still finds a way to suck air from a cracked crankcase that I didn't notice when I brought it back into service and only shows up when it is warm[:@].

I have talked to numerous people at my field and the consensus is that a .91 four stroke is the way to go. The kit lists a .80 as the largest recommended engine and I wonder if anyone has experience with a .91 in this thing. I really want to avoid over powering while maintaining good aerobatics and climb out[>:]. I did not have to add any weight nor do anything weird with servos to balance either front to rear or side to side without battery, and this makes me happy. I can move the battery to compensate for any minor CG changes, so the 4 strokes being lighter will only help me out[8D].

The Saito 82 will work, I think, but the 91 is soooooo tempting. I just don't want another addition to my RC cemetery this soon.