shellydog

My Feedback: (1)

I recently purchased a US. Air core Colt .40 off of E-bay. The kit was started, The fuse was done and the wing was unstarted. After looking thru the kit i noticed The 2 Main wood wing spars were missing. No problem they will be easy to make. But I need a liitle help from someone who has a new in box kit. I would like to know if you would be kind enough to measure the spars so i can make an exact copy. As you know this kit is mostly plastic ,but the wing spar that you insert thru the wing is wood,and thats the piece thats missing. Your help would greatly be appreciated! Thanks so much, SHELLYDOG

tuffst90

If you are still looking for the measurements on the wing spars let me know. I will be receiving one in the next few days.

shellydog

My Feedback: (1)

Yes! That would be a big help to me. You can post it here or e-mail me at [email protected]
Thanks so much! shellydog

rcs36

My Feedback: (4)

Shellydog, I have built and still fly this plane. I also have built the trainer. Both fly very well, and can take one heck of a beating. I strongly suggest that you build your colt with the 58" sport wing option, makes it much more aerobatic. Fly with low rate elevator and high rate ailerons settings. Put the rudder to the max throw and with 2 oz weight in the tail. At these settings this bird will do the best flat spin ever seen at half throttle. Give yourself plenty of time to pull out of it though. If I can be of any help, please just ask. I love this plane, my first plane after my trainer. Also I have the OS 46 FX with a 11 X 4 APC prop on it with the baffle removed from the muffler. I have a tuned pipe on the way, can't wait to try it. Sorry I do not have the details on the wing spar, but if I can be of any other help, just ask.

Richard

rcs36

My Feedback: (4)

Hi again, I found the pieces of the wing spar that I cut off to make the 58" wing, and the left over pieces measure: 1 11/32" tall, 1/4" thick and the length depends on if you are going to make the 64" or the 58" wing, with the two spar halves butted together. Not sure of what type of wood, but it is light. Do you have the dihedral braces? Also, the end of the spars are cut to make the proper angle of the wing tip when folded up on final wing assembly. Not sure of the angle. Hope this helps.

Richard

shellydog

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks Richard! Thats just what I needed. I am going to make the Sport wing version too. I have a very power full Enya .45 CX that I am going to use. I dont have the Dihiedral braces but I am Going to use 1" under each tip. I had a Coro Star that flew great a few years back , I picked this one up on E-bay for $18.00 plus $10.00 shipping , The fuse and tail feathers were built. And the rest of the kit looked complete untill I noticed there was no spar or braces. But now that you helped me out I can finish where the other guy left off . Thanks again Richard! shellydog

rcs36

My Feedback: (4)

Shellydog, You are very welcome! Also a very important note: page 24, item 4.15, wing incidence, as the manual says, this is very important. However, the method they describe can be improved. When you go to match the wing to the fuse, you will find that the wing saddle does not fit the contour of the wing. This is a prime time to cure the contour fit and the wing incidence. Carve the wing saddle to fit the wing and also, at the same time, set the wing incidence to the stab at "0" degrees (bottom of the wing to the bottom of the stab). This will take some time and several trial fits of the wing to the fuse, but it will be worth it in the end. Also be sure to measure each wing tip to the stab to insure that they are square with each other. Do these steps before doing page 23, item 4.14, wing positioning strips. Page 23, item 4.13 is the same thing as page 24, item 4.15, by the way. I also added one sided adhesive foam strips, 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick, to the inside of the wing alignment strips. The same material that is used, as a seal, when mounting a camper shell to the bed of a truck. This helps to prevent rubbing of the wing and the fuse. One more quick note, you might consider, clear coating the fuse and wing. The red paint or ink, what ever it is, will come off quickly due to the fuel on the right side of the plane and around the engine. I do not know for sure if this will work, but I think it would be worth a try. If I can be of any further help, control throws, CG, anything at all, please feel free to ask.

Richard
[email protected]