Yak 18PM
#27
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
I'm looking forward to your pictures. Soon you will have all framework finished and can see the size of your new model. Always an exciting moment when setting a fuselage and wing together for the first time!
Good choice going with the scale elevator outline. Now your model will be true scale!
The little triangle braces add tremendous strength to the joints. They take some time to cut and fit but easily done. I used them on all tail feathers.
"wheel pants on the mains"?
Good choice going with the scale elevator outline. Now your model will be true scale!
The little triangle braces add tremendous strength to the joints. They take some time to cut and fit but easily done. I used them on all tail feathers.
"wheel pants on the mains"?
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Sorry. What i meant is that I decided to start without retracs. (even thou i got a pair of Robarts laying on my shelf, poor mustang..)
I also noticed that the little triangels really strengthen up the construction a LOT! Therefor i have added plenty of them.
I have decided to give priority to lightness in this bird, a very accurate scale apperence is not VERY important.
Feel free to post more pictures of your bird! =)
What servos are you planning to use?
I also noticed that the little triangels really strengthen up the construction a LOT! Therefor i have added plenty of them.
I have decided to give priority to lightness in this bird, a very accurate scale apperence is not VERY important.
Feel free to post more pictures of your bird! =)
What servos are you planning to use?
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Here's a quick update:
* The wing is sheeted and only some problems with the ailerons remains before the wing is ready to cover.
* The stab and fin are ready to attach to the fuselage. The rudder and the elevator halfs are also ready to cover!
The big problem now is the fuselage. I really dont know how to attach the wing to the fuse. I guess that some parts are missing in my kit.
well hopefully i can get some pictues up another day.
* The wing is sheeted and only some problems with the ailerons remains before the wing is ready to cover.
* The stab and fin are ready to attach to the fuselage. The rudder and the elevator halfs are also ready to cover!
The big problem now is the fuselage. I really dont know how to attach the wing to the fuse. I guess that some parts are missing in my kit.
well hopefully i can get some pictues up another day.
#32
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Very very nice!
Have you attached your wing to the fuse? On my model I epoxied two plywood blocks in the fuselage rear corners and tapped them for nylon bolts.
I think standard size servos are okay. I've heard many times Hitec servos are very reliable.
Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth where the three wing panels join together? Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth to the wing center? Although no joint in the center, still receives a heavy load.
Have you attached your wing to the fuse? On my model I epoxied two plywood blocks in the fuselage rear corners and tapped them for nylon bolts.
I think standard size servos are okay. I've heard many times Hitec servos are very reliable.
Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth where the three wing panels join together? Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth to the wing center? Although no joint in the center, still receives a heavy load.
#34
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
ORIGINAL: GalenB
I like the HS-5487HB digital servo for planes of this size... Stong Karbonite gears and 70+ in-oz of torque on 6 volts... They sell for around $34.00 US...
ORIGINAL: Blue_Moon_
What kind of Hitec servos would you go for? (dual elevator servos, single rudder)
What kind of Hitec servos would you go for? (dual elevator servos, single rudder)
#35
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
ORIGINAL: McLeodAviation
Very very nice!
Have you attached your wing to the fuse? On my model I epoxied two plywood blocks in the fuselage rear corners and tapped them for nylon bolts.
I think standard size servos are okay. I've heard many times Hitec servos are very reliable.
Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth where the three wing panels join together? Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth to the wing center? Although no joint in the center, still receives a heavy load.
Very very nice!
Have you attached your wing to the fuse? On my model I epoxied two plywood blocks in the fuselage rear corners and tapped them for nylon bolts.
I think standard size servos are okay. I've heard many times Hitec servos are very reliable.
Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth where the three wing panels join together? Are you going to apply fiberglass cloth to the wing center? Although no joint in the center, still receives a heavy load.
Thanks to you the build is going smoothly
Nah i dont plan do add fiberglass reinforcements on the wing, i hope that its strong enough anyway.. the wing is pretty heavy for its size, so i guess it is strong. Have you added any fiberglass to your bird?
Wait, after been thinking a bit, perhaps it will be fine with a thin layer of fiberglass were the nylon bolts is coming thru the wing. As you said, heavy load..
Im very intrestead in how you have solved the wing bolt section (if you got any pictures...)
#36
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Here are some pictures of my wing bolt instalation.
To prevent the wing bolts from crushing the sheeting I added shaped balsa blocks in the space between the wing sheeting. I also added some 1/4 square braces beside the ribs.
In fuselage I used 1/4 plywood for wing mounting plates/blocks. I still need to epoxy triangle balsa under the mounting plates.
To prevent the wing bolts from crushing the sheeting I added shaped balsa blocks in the space between the wing sheeting. I also added some 1/4 square braces beside the ribs.
In fuselage I used 1/4 plywood for wing mounting plates/blocks. I still need to epoxy triangle balsa under the mounting plates.
#38
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
thanks for the pictures. what is that hole between the rods for?
(http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...65/Yw66837.jpg)
Sorry to disappoint you, i will not add scale flaps. Since im going for a light weight build with dual aileron servos, i think the model will fly better without the extra weight that the scale flap adds to the construktion. I can mix flaps with the ailerons in the radio instead.
My wing is not bolted to the fuse yet, the big problem is that the wing dont seem to fit very well. The trailing edge is about 1/2" below and 1/2" too far behind the fuselage when i try to fit the wing and fuselage togheter! Ahhgr... [>:] Did you had any problems with fitting your wing to the fuselage?
I bought a PCI card to my computer the other day so now i can record the maiden flight and transfer it to my computer, then upload it here
(http://image.rcuniverse.com/forum/up...65/Yw66837.jpg)
ORIGINAL: McLeodAviation
Cut out in lower wing sheeting is for the scale flap. Are you adding functional flap?
Cut out in lower wing sheeting is for the scale flap. Are you adding functional flap?
My wing is not bolted to the fuse yet, the big problem is that the wing dont seem to fit very well. The trailing edge is about 1/2" below and 1/2" too far behind the fuselage when i try to fit the wing and fuselage togheter! Ahhgr... [>:] Did you had any problems with fitting your wing to the fuselage?
I bought a PCI card to my computer the other day so now i can record the maiden flight and transfer it to my computer, then upload it here
#39
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
The hole in leading edge is a modification for the nose wheel to retract.
My wing fit good.
Is the rear bottom of your fuselage finished? In your picture looks like you have not installed the rear lower strips which add to the fuslage shape. Double check your plans here. I think when you add the strips your wing will fit correctly.
My wing fit good.
Is the rear bottom of your fuselage finished? In your picture looks like you have not installed the rear lower strips which add to the fuslage shape. Double check your plans here. I think when you add the strips your wing will fit correctly.
#43
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Wish I could be more help but I framed up my YAK a few years ago. I can't remember construction details but I'm sure my wing is the same location as on the plan?
I mounted my engine with no offset thrust. I might need to change this?
I mounted my engine with no offset thrust. I might need to change this?
#44
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
Sorry for my english, but what does "frame up" mean? Does it mean that you have sheeted the fuse?
Yes i think it is a very good idea to add some right thrust Actually i drilled the holes in the firewall just a couple of minuts ago.
I added a couple of washes under the engine mount: two washers per bolt on the leftside to provide right thrust. One wash to the bolt on the upper right bolt to provide a very little downthrust. I hope this is a good start... If its not good enough, then im going to adjust the offset after test flight, then i can mix the throttle to the elevator / rudder to make it fly as a dream
(i you got any more pictures feel free... they are really great and helpful for me.)
Yes i think it is a very good idea to add some right thrust Actually i drilled the holes in the firewall just a couple of minuts ago.
I added a couple of washes under the engine mount: two washers per bolt on the leftside to provide right thrust. One wash to the bolt on the upper right bolt to provide a very little downthrust. I hope this is a good start... If its not good enough, then im going to adjust the offset after test flight, then i can mix the throttle to the elevator / rudder to make it fly as a dream
(i you got any more pictures feel free... they are really great and helpful for me.)
#45
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
bytheway, the fuselage was very very noseheavy with the standard alu cowl and engine mounted.. im aming for a close-to-CG posisitioned tank so the three servos in the tail will to the trick i hope!
#46
My Feedback: (70)
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 396
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
"framed up" is assembled or constructed.
You can make your own fiberglass cowl to save weight. A mold can be easily made from the original aluminum cowl.
Also could use the aluminum cowl itself as a mold but the new cowl will not be the exact original diameter.
You can make your own fiberglass cowl to save weight. A mold can be easily made from the original aluminum cowl.
Also could use the aluminum cowl itself as a mold but the new cowl will not be the exact original diameter.
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: ., SWEDEN
Posts: 710
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Yak 18PM
ORIGINAL: Dimon
McLeodAviation, here are photos of Yak-18PM I've found:
McLeodAviation, here are photos of Yak-18PM I've found:
McLeodAviation, i will try to make a own glassfiber cowl. Im not sure how to make a mold out of the original cowl but im sure i will find out.