wyunk386

hi you all i am building 12 telemaster boy the plans dont tell much . so printing all pic. and all your information. so i got fuslage all most done well allmost .stabillizer now allmost done. now started center of wing . i am not kit builder . i scratch build. i am scratch building curtiss p6-e hawk 1/4 scale . last fall i did b25j mitchell 118 wing i had trouble with ing. so maybe this spring i can fly it. for the best is for telemaster it sure looks good some of balsa was not good .but thank you all of you

wally

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I don't know about you, but I thought the center section was the hardest part to build of the whole thing. One thing I would do different if doing it again, I would put the bras threaded 1/4 x 20 inserts in the center section to put the wing bolts into instead of tapping the wood. I had the front threads strip out on mine and had to go back in and put the brass inserts in. Wasn't a problem on the front, as I removed the leading edge of the center section and got it done that way.
Randy

mothy1946

Randy, I think you or one of the other guys previously said to stay away from tapping the ply . I have nearly finished the wing center section and remembering this, was planning to use dubro 1/4 20 blind nuts and steel cap screws. Do you think the brass inserts would be better? I'ts not too late to cahnge. Did you use the plastic bolts provided with the kit with the inserts or steel. I seem to remember advice on the site to ditch the plastic bolts in the entire airframe and use steel instead.
Tim

mothy1946

Wally, It sounds like you're well advanced with the build but in case you haven't got it there is an instruction "manual" that compliments the plans well and makes life easier which you can download. I think it is on the Hobby Lobby web site.
Tim

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I use the nylon bolts to hold the wing tongues in, and steel for the wing struts. I see no reason that the bliind nuts won't work just fine in the center section. I find that attaching the wings to the center section to be the most trouble in assembly, but not that bad once you've done it a couple times and get a system worked out for it.
Randy

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I used all steel socket cap bolts (screws) for the entire build. I did not use blind nuts on the wing center section as others have. So far everything has held up well. On the bolts that hold the center section to the fuslage I used steel socket cap bolts AND lock nuts with the nylon insert. Also at the locations of 1/4" x 20 bolts I used a smaller drill bit for the hole before tapping in the threads. For example the 1/4 tap calls for a number 7 drill bit. I would use a smaller drill bit like a 8 or 9, a drill bit with a larger number, and then tap the hole. I use this method because I am tapping into wood and not steel. After threading the hole is complete I then run thin ca adhesive into the hole and onto the threads in the hole. Then give it plenty of time to cure, overnight, and run the tap over the threaded hole again. This makes for a very strong threaded attachment point. I have never stripped the threads on any of these yet. I also use a screwdriver with changable tips and use a 3/16 allen tip to tighten the screws. The screws have to be tight but not so tight that you are using the long end of the allen wrench. The screw threads will stirp out if too much torq is applied. Try this expairiment. Use scrap wood, the same kind you will be using at the attachment points and apply the forementioned method. If you are comfortable with it then go for it. If you use blind nuts then you will have to locktight the bolts in because if they just begin to come loose without locktight then they will unscrew very easily in the air and we all know what that can lead to. Make sure that if you use blind nuts or brass insert that you use epoxy when installing the blind nuts or brass inserts into the hole in the wood. You don't want those things spinning around in the hole and making it very difficult for removal.
Hope this helps.

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Like you, I drill and tap wood and have never had a problem with a failure in many decades. Actually, I've never had a failure at all, but I am choosey as to the wood I drill and tap. As you indicated, if I understood you right, I use an undersized body drill for wood than I would for drilling metal for tapping.


Ed Cregger

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

That's right, an undersized drill bit. I should have said instead of a number 7 drill bit, go smaller with a larger numbered drill bit. My mistake. Thank you for correcting me on that one. I hope whoever is reading these posts does not stop at the last post and go drilling holes that are the wrong size. I don't think I can edit a post here can I? I will try.

tsekoa

My Feedback: (2)

I was able to edit the post and correct my mistake.

mothy1946

Thanks guy's. Many options. Persoanally I have never had a failure using blind nuts either bau you are absolutely corret , they need to either be epoxied in place or have timber attached behind them to stop them falling out.
Tim

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

Precisely! I use T-nuts or blind nuts upon occasion, but as you stated, you have to secure them in place or you will ruin a whole afternoon's worth of flying one day when one comes loose.

Still, if the location is right and the wood selection is available, I'll still go with drilling and tapping wood (not for engines!).


Ed Cregger

wyunk386

struts i will used 2 on each side like cubs . wing is to big for just one. i ren fored center with 1/4 ply for wing load.below wing on fuslage i use 1-1/2 3/8 balsa i think it will be good .

NM2K

My Feedback: (14)

It is my intention to reengineer the wing (if needed) to operate fully functionally without struts. I hate wings that are too wimpy to fly without struts. Besides, it is just extra work at the field to mount and dismount wing struts. Work that I do not need at this stage of my life.


Ed Cregger

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

I've finally got the urge to do something different with my Giant Tele. I'm going to put a smoke system on it. bought a big military drone last year, and it had all the stuff on it I needed: the smoke pump and electronics to tie it into my receiver. I don't, however, intend to put it on permanently. I am building a pod to attach to the center section where the hatch goes. Going to put the pump, tank, and electronics in there, so when I don't want to use it, I won't have to be carrying around extra stuff.
I guess I'm just a little paranoid about putting a tank inside the plane. A member came to the field one time and had a smoke tank on a Citabria. He took off, flew around awhile, and couldn't get the smoke to work. He landed to see what was wrong. It was working all right, and he pumped about 14oz of diesel fuel into the fuselage. It was dripping out the tail when he landed. Ruined the plane.
Anyway, I thought it would be cool to come barreling down the runway about 5mph with smoke billowing from it!
Randy

mothy1946

Hi Guys. Well the Giant build is under way. Have had guests in the house for the best part of the last 3 weeks so "me time" has been limited. The wing center section is complete and yes I did use blind nuts and steel cap screws instead of threading the ply. Hope I don't live to regret it. Have now started laminating the spars for the first wing. Tedious job. Randy smoke will be fun. My plan at this stage is to fit the bomb bay, but also mount a video camera which transmits real time images to a monitor on the ground. A member of our club is the production manager of a local TV station and an electronics wizz kid. He had a similar set up some years ago on a giant scale Cub although it was fairly cumbersome and not a totally reliable setup - lots of interference etc. Our flying field is surrounded by a dense pine plantation and occasionally models disappear into it. The undergrowth is really thick and trying to push through it in a general direction to find a lost model is a real problem- Cuts scratches etc-. The Cub was used once or twice to spot the missing models from the air and guide rescuers to the spot. With the miniaturisation of cameras and electronics now, I can imagine having another go at setting this arrangement up again and getting a much better result.
Tim

mothy1946

Hi everyone,
Just finished building one wing of this monster. Quite a job but maybe I'm too used to how quickly you can get into the air these days with ARF's. Taken a lot of notice of all the comments and tips posted on this forum to improve the model. Thanks.
As previously mentioned I have replaced the center section wing attachment plastic screws with steel cap screws and blind nuts epoxied into place. The spar webbing on both the main and rear spars has been exteded to both sides of the spars out to the wing tip. I laminated 1.5mm (1/16th) ply on the inboard side of the w3 rib adjacent to the servo area and the out board side of the w2 rib adjacent to the wing strut attachment plate. I was a bit worried that this bay was high stress loaded and the balsa wing ribs by themselves looked flimsy. As the wing struts continually in the posts seem to be problematic ( or at least their attachment points ) I have decided to have a main and a secondary spar on each wing much like the Decathalon setup. To accommodate this I have extended tha 1/2 inch hard wood block that the normal set up strut attaches to both forward and back the full length of the attachment plate.
Also laminated 1.5 mm ply into the top surface of the center section top hatch to avoid crushing the balsa when tightening down. I've actualy incorporated 6 screws ( 3 on the leading edge and 3 on the trailing edge ) again into epoxied blind nuts to hold this hatch down.
I know what you're thinking. By the time this model is finished with these mods and no doubt others along the way, it will be so heavy it will never get off the ground! May be so but I don't want it to suffer a catastophic failure in flight if by a little thought and incorporating improvements highlighted by others this can be avoided .
Tim

jbarnes

You can't get any heavier than mine. I used 1/4" lite ply ribs where the struts attach and beefed up struts and mounting plates, plus sheeted the fuse. I've been flying min for the last few weeks and it is sure easy to see! Put a G62 on the front and you won't be dissapointed regardless of how heavy it turns out. Jerry.

mothy1946

Hi Jbarnes,
You mentioned in your post of 1/29/08 that you used hitec 5645 servos all round. Were these the 5645 HB or 5645 MG? According to specs the HB's are smaller ( 2oz.) with 10.3 Kg torque and the MG's larger at 5oz. but with 19kg torque. Perhaps the larger and stronger servo would be better on the ailerons ( or is this overkill on a slow flying model?) and the other on elevators and rudder.
Cheers,
Tim

jbarnes

Hey Tim, I used MG on all surfaces. You can also use 1/4 scale servos as there is plenty of space in the wing to support the larger size. How's the bird coming? Jerry.

mothy1946

Thanks Jerry, MG all round it will be. The smaller size and lighter weight will be and advantage. Progress is steady. I've completed the wing center section, one wing and aileron. Correction. I've yet to finally shape and sand the wing and judging by how long it took me to sand the aileron this may take as long on the wing as it took to build! On the aileron I did the initial shaping with a razor plane and then finished off with sanding blocks fabricated as suggested in the telemaster instructions.Created enough balsa dust to be spitting and snorting for a day after and left a fine film of dust all over the place! Next time I'll use a dust mask and do the sanding outside. I've just cleaned up all the clutter on the work bench to start on the second wing. First job is splicing and laminating all those spars again - painful. Have pretty well made up my mind to use a Zenoah 62 for power. Have gone off the idea of a DA50. Their perfomance is similar but I think the extra weight up front of the Zenoah will be an advantage if I include all the mods suggested by others which will probably result in the model being tail heavy. Would rather use a heavier engine than add lead.
Cheers,
Tim

jbarnes

Sounds good. I have a G62 in mine and still added 2 lbs of lead to the nose to get it to balance. Sheeting the fuselage in the back really adds the weight to the tail. I hear you about the sanding, some preshaped LE's would have been great.

mothy1946

Hi Jerry,
I've not purchased the Zenoah yet so haven't had an opportunity to check out size weight etc in detail. Only going on website specs and what others have told me. Could you give me a rough idea (and I realise it can only be a "guesstimate") as to how much further forward the engine would have to mounted to eliminate or at least significantly reduce the amount of lead needed in the nose. Do you think stiffening the fuselage satisfactorily could be achieved with lighter sheeting say 1/16 and achieve the same benefit?
Tim.
PS. ordered the Hitec servos today and using the same all round except for the throttle. I'm sure you've posted the answer to this question somewhere before but did you go 6 volt and more than one battery? What capacity?
Tim

jbarnes

Hey Tim, I'm sure a lighter sheeting would be helpful. I used 1/4" just becuase it was easy in that it was the thickness of the existing sheeting. I also have my rudder servo in the tail and put a robust tail wheel on the bird. Maybe sticking with the original plan plus adding some diagonal bracing on the fuse will also eliminate the twisting. I'd guess you would need to extend the nose a few inches to eliminate most of the dead weight. I do have two 2000mah packs up front running 6volt.

Heres a peek at my Senior Telemaster twin. This is my test bird, this next Winter I'd like to build another Giant but make it a twin with two gas motors. Guess I just can't get enough of that balsa dust.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_70...tm.htm#7008113
Take care, Jerry.

mothy1946

Thanks Jerry,
I didn't realise that you had used 1/4 sheeting on the fuselage although thinking about it you did say this in an earlier post. I understand why. I'll look at 1/8 when the time comes rather than diagonal bracing or perhaps a combination of both. The plan always was to install all the tail servos in the tail unit as rryman and you have done to make transport and field setup easier. Sure like the look of your twin. Thanks for the pictures. I've never flown a twin anything in model size as I've always been afraid of a disaster if a motor quit. I have a scale P38 Lightning 75 inch span and powered by 2 OS 46s , air retracts, the whole bit. I bought it from a fellow member of our club but have never flown it having seen it's sister ship totally uncontrollable and destroyed after a engine failure. From your comments the Telemaster twin is very forgiving in these circumstances. When I've finished the Giant and provided I don't die from lung disease from all the sanding I'd be interested to give this a try. No doubt lots off emails seeking your advice will be needed.
Cheers,
Tim

rryman

My Feedback: (2)

If you don't like sanding leading edges, this little item from Great Planes is dandy for cutting down balsa to the point of sanding. I use that and a small hand plane to get the big stuff out of the way. Saves on a lot of dust also.
Randy

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXAEY2&P=7