Hardy_H

I'm about to start my winter build, a Hog Bipe. I can't find any information about the engine sidethrust. Is it supposed to be installed with 0°?

I'm also thinking of mounting my inverted engine a little higher in order to have it sticking out of the fuse less far. Do you think that would have much of an effect on the aerobatics performance?

maayan

Hey.
like all models, the hog also is in need of some side thrust.
build the plane as in the plans.
but when mounting the engine, put a washer or two (depends on the thickness) to get about 1-2^ of side thrust.

good luck :-)

jucava

Did you read the instructions/plans?

Dauntae

I am in the process of building a hog bipe at a friends house and if I recall I think there is right thrust already built into the firewall, Will check when I make it over there Thursday to confirm and post it if nobody else answers first.

Dauntae

maayan

I rechecked the plans, it has a built in down thrust.
but no side thrust.
I have a hog flying- and it needs a little of right thrust.

Hardy_H

It has no built in sidethrust because the fuse sides are identical. I wanted to have a tested value for sidethrust because you have to move the engine mount a few millimeters to the left in order to have the propeller in the middle axis. Guess I'll position the engine mount fitting for a sidethrust of 2°.

@Dauntae
I'll also borrow your idea of screwing in the tank floor. Such a simple solution and I couldn't figure it out myself...

Dauntae

Here is a pic of the hatch I made also. I'll get some better pics tommorow and post them for you.

Dauntae

Dauntae

The block you see in the front is to screw down the hatch door, The spacer on the door is to fit under the landing gear block and it fits between the fuse sides where you are supposed to glue it in, The tank floor also needs to be trimmed on the sides then screwed into the mounting blocks, Actually got my camera inside the fuse to take the pic but you can see how they are mounted where the the tank floor is sapposed to glued, Also the blocks I put in are to hold the tank centered so it is a pretty snug fit between the blocks. Soory if this sounds confusing, I stinck at explaining this stuff but you should be able to understand it in the pics.

Dauntae

Hardy_H

Thanks for the pics. I hope you're having a very merry Christmas.

I was going to move the tank floor down a little due to tank size anyway. I'll probably make a new tank floor and drill a number of holes into it. Using cable binders theses holes will enable me to position and fix the tank on the top side, and the battery pack and receiver (wrapped in foam rubber, of course) anywhere on the bottom side of that tank floor, depending on how the plane's balanced with the other components installed.

Which leads us to the to the topic of engine vibration. The tank floor is not going to directly touch the firewall and maybe I'll put some rubber between the tank floor and the tank floor mounting blocks. More important I'll use rubber elements for mounting the engine. I don't know exactly how much of a difference that makes, but I think reducing vibration can only add to your airframe's and electronics' longevity.

Haven't decided yet on whether or not to make a pull-pull rudder, but as I'm starting with the wings I still have enough time left to figure out some fuse details.

[email protected]

hardy h, i put no down or side thrust in my hog bipe. using a saaito 91 w/ 14 x 8 prop. DO SPREAD THE GEAR way out and move it forward so the center of the wheel is 2 -3 inches in front of the lower wing. i made a removable top hatch just aft of the cowel secured with 4 screws and blind nuts on 'TABS" ON THE HATCH. check out my gallery. the fokker is a hog bipe plan blown up 20% w/ a 120 o.s. and reconfigured tail feathers. mike