Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

I've just ordered a BalsaUSA Fokker DR1 and have scoured the forums but haven't come up with anything to answer my covering questions completely. This will be my 6th build and I've gotten comfortable with building but all I've ever used is Monokote for covering. I'd like to employ some of the nice techniques I've seen that make the plane look somewhat weathered and such. I'd appreciate any links to reference material or sites outlining the process for different methods. I'm going to try to do a really nice job on this and I don't think Monokote is the answer I'm looking for to achieve that scale appearance as I'm going to go all out, ie., cockpit, cowling, pilot, etc.

Thanks for any and all help.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

First of all, if you are "going to go all out" do not use a film covering. The original planes used cloth covering. Which cloth covering you use will depend on how much work you want to do.

If you want to do a lot of work go with Koverall. That you will have to glue to the airframe, fill the weave, prime and paint.

If it were me, I would use SolarTex (http://www.balsausa.com/coverings/?shopperid= ) to cover it. It is noticably lighter in weight than Coverite fabric. Solartex is preglued (like moneykote ) and does not require coating the airframe with Balsarite or SIG Stix-It in order to get the covering to adhere. Solartex comes prepainted with a fuelproof paint. It is easy to work with, especially around wing tips and other tight corners, and shrinks well. A nice plus to this product is that it rarely wrinkles if applied properly and doesn't bubble over solid surfaces.

The only negative is that since the weave is a bit more open, unless you give it a clear coat to seal the weave you will have to do some scrubbing with a small brush to get out the dirt and grime.

I have used Solartex on several models and really like it.

As to the weight issue - I did 2 identical 40 - 60 size planes. Both airframes were within 1/4 oz of each other prior to covering. One I covered with Coverite, the other with Solartex. The Solartex one was almost 4 oz lighter.

I would also suggest dropping DR1 a pm. He should be able to provide you with some links, tips, etc. for the DR1.

Hope this helps.

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

Thanks for the info. I've been looking at solartex. Can it be painted and how do you achieve the "weathered" look around the ribs that I've seen in so many nice models. I'll probably use some sort of clear coat when I've finished it to make cleanup easier. Do you have a preference on what to use?

I tried to lookup Dr1 but didn't find him. Found alot of variations though.

Thanks for the help!

dicknadine

suggest that you look at the fabric in Wal mart/ KMart. some real neat stuff there. plain colors, different texture. have used it a lot. does require a clear or colored top coat, other wise it picks up dirt real quick. the original Fokkers used painted cotton muslem . dick in Greensburg, La.

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

Now that's interesting. My wife does alot of embroidery stuff and is in and out of that area of Wally World. Does the fabric you're refering to possess similar qualities such as the Solartex or 21st Century, (neither of which I've ever held in my hand before)? Do you have any particular brand names you like?

Thanks

papermache

My Feedback: (35)

Cry,
With all due respect to Dick, stay out of Wally World and stick with Solartex. It's far and away the best covering I've ever used. The few bucks you'd save buying raw fabric over Solartex will be quickly eaten up by having to buy an adhesive to stick it to the frame and all that other happy stuff. Solartex is an iron-on and shrinks up beautifully. You can use just about any kind of paint or dope to finish it, and it looks great. It cuts nicely too if you're going to do rib tapes.

Papermache

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

I just ordered my first "practice" roll this morning right befor reading your post. I have an old bipe that I'll recover and practice on to get my technique down. I'm searching right now for good threads (PtP) regarding the use of Solartex. I have one heckova stockpile of monokote but have a feeling after all the suggestions that it's going to end up on the auction block.

MajorTomski

May I suggest you have a look around the WW-I modeling page?

http://www.wwi-models.org/

In the model galleries there is a search function that will show you all of the Dr-Is that have been built on the list

http://www.wwi-models.org/app/sbj/sr...&subjGlob=DR-I

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

CH--I'm using Soilartex right now to re-cover a GP DR-1 ARF, it's the second best covering I've ever used, and I'll give you my take on how it's working for me. The material is very nice, goes on easily and sticks well. I recommend having a thermometer and setting your iron as recommended by the instructions--it does make a difference when shrinking it. Seams hide very well, and I covered the top and bottom wings of my plane with one piece each, starting at the trailing edge, pulling it up and over the leading edge and sticking it down again over the trailing edge and then trimming it. It stretches fairly well around the curved wingtips, you have to work it a bit to prevent wrinkles

I used both white and natural Solartex (LHS didn't have enough white at the time) and painted the plane with acrylic latex interior house paint. The kind I'm using is American Tradition Signature, by Valspar. I'm using a two inch brush and I put down a coat of olive brown, and stroke the brush on a diagonal to the span of the wing (about 30 degrees from leading to trailing edge), and then overcoat it with an olive green, following the same angle and intentionally streaking the coat so a little of the brown shows through. The fuselage is painted top to bottom and the method of streaking is the same. I pencilled the pattern using a straightedge and hand painted the stripes (just the black stripes over white Solartex). The underside of the fuse, middle and bottom wings are a sort of robin's egg blue, the closest I could find to what I've seen to the supposed factory Fokker blue.

After all is painted and dried a couple of days, I went over the whole plane, piece by piece, with flat clear LusterCote to fuel proof it. The finish is glass smooth, just a tad of sheen, and the brush marks are there enough to give the detail I think you're looking for. Even the metal parts took the paint exceptionally well.

I said second favorite above, because Koverall is my favorite. I have a BUSA D-VII and Sopwith Pup yet to build, and I will use Koverall for them. Why? Because it is the ultimate as far as I am concerned; if you spend a lot of time on your plane and want the cover to look the absolute best, do the extra work and use Koverall. My L-4 is done in Koverall and dope. In over two years, not a hint of a wrinkle or loosened cover, and you can't see a seam anywhere, even when you look for them. Patching a tear is a piece of cake, and the repair disappears (and the L-4 has a few!)

The finishing method I used for the Solartex will work just as well on the Koverall. You can experiment some, but the latex paint is thick enough that carefully applied, it will fill the weave of the koverall on the first coat, and should bond to the fabric mechainically by locking into the weave. You can also use spray starch and lightly spray a couple of coats on the bare Koverall to help fill the weave, but don't get too heavy or it will eventually flake, as will any paint over it. Here's a few pics of my DR-1, etc. I included the color chips I used for the paint. The stuff is about $10 a quart; pints would work, but Lowe's won't mix less than a quart.

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thank you for a splendid explanation and the pics. I've saved this post to refer back to. You covering looks excellent. From the sounds of this, with the experience I have with Monokote I shouldn't have much problem getting the hang of this technique and fortunately I have a plane to practice with.

Excellent post, Thanks!

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I like your mottos "let slip...etc" I'll post more pics of mine as it gets closer to completion. I will use this method on all my WWI stuff, it's easy and looks fabulous. One of my clubmates turned me on to this; he is a finishings professional (furniture industry) and has a BUSA DR-1, Nieuprt 17, Sopwith Pup, Bristol monoplane, and Fokker D-VII, all done with Koverall and acrylic latex. He clearcoated with polyurethane and has good results, too. He uses gas engines in all his planes now. He had a 1.20 Saito in his DR-I for a while, but the exhaust blowing on the landing gear airfoil eventually made the poly and latex wrinkle and peel. He repainted it and put a G-26 in it. My L-4 has LusterCote on the underside, with a polyurethane clearcoat over it, and the exhaust has done a job on the poly, but the LusterCote is untouched and undamaged, so I feel it has proven itself as a good fuelproofing clearcoat, and it is totally compatible with the acrylic latex paint.

I like the Solartex the best of all the pre-finished materials. I have noticed that it has "relaxed" a bit since I shrank it, I have handled it a lot, and painted it, etc. I tried reshrinking it after painting it and clearcoating it; if you are very careful and do a small area at a time, it doesn't do anything to the finish, but I don't recommend it unless you have to, and I would not use a heat gun. It is still plenty tight.

I recommend also making a set of wing skids. From what I have seen of my pal landing his DR-1, they are indispensible (he is an excellent pilot, BTW). I made mine from some aluminum door stripping and 1/4 inch wood dowels. For the BUSA model, 5/16 is probably better. What scheme do you plan to paint? There are a lot of sites with pictures, plug "Fokker DR-1" into Microsoft or Google and check them out. There is a great site, can't remember it, but I think you can get to it from www.theaerodrome.com that has several artist's profile paintings of many different WWI planes. Most are copyrighted, careful about downloading. I found this picture to do my ARF by, and I want to make sure that the artist who did the profile gets due credit; beautiful work:

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

Wow, that's a beautiful plane. I've gotten alot of PM's, etc regarding using solartex and have decided to use it. Just by concidence I found the aerodrome's site and was looking around for a good scheme. Still haven't made up my mind about the scheme yet but I've got time as the kit hasn't arrived yet, (like waiting on Christmas). Whichever one I choose I'm going to do my best to hold true to the era. Already ordered the cockpit kit and cowling, guns and leather trim. Looking for a suitable WWI full figure pilot at the moment as well as good scale wheels. Any suggestions on that?

Thanks very much for you help!

Cryhavoc

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Williams Bros. would be my choice for wheels, can't help much on a full figure pilot. I just deepened the cockpit on my ARF and used an old wallet (cut it up) to coam the edge of the cockpit and I'm using an Aces of Iron pilot bust. Whose cockpit kit, guns, etc are you using? Have you been to Glenn Torrance's website? He's got some great stuff, and is a real stickler for detail and accuracy.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I second campy's comments. I have used both solartex and Koverall. I like them both. Solartex is probably easier to do, fewer steps, however, my next major project will be the Balsa USA 1/4 Sopwith Pup, and I plan to use Koverall on it. Mainly due to the cost - these models will require lots of covering material, and Koverall will cost about 1/3 (or less) of the cost for solartex. Also, I plan to paint the finish, so the prefinished solartex has no benefit to me in this application.

My 6year old Phaeton 90 is covered with solartex, still looks good, but requires some occassional retightening with a heat gun. I have two other models covered in Koverall, one is 4 yrs , the other just under 1 year. Neither has ever required the slightest retightening of the fabric. Either one will give you a good covering. Your choice. Best of luck!

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

Jim,

I'm curious about how you seal the koverall after you've finished applying it and prior to painting? What do you plan to do?

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

Here's my GP DR-1 mocked up, 1st assembly. No engine and most of electronics still not installed, hope to get engine and servos in this weekend.

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

Very Very nice work. Please send me a flight report on this baby when done. I've been practicing on Aerofly Pro Deluxe with the DR1 and it's very interesting. You start taking things for granted when you don't fly warbirds for a while. You earn your pay with this one, but I love a challenge...LOL

khodges

My Feedback: (1)

I've flown the DR-1 on G-3. It's a piece of cake to take off and fly, but I haven't managed landing yet without tearing it all to hell. Hope that's not an omen.

buzzard bait

About sealing Koverall, I've always used nitrate dope, but I'm interested in what others here do.

I tried to register at The Aerodrome but couldn't get past the "image verification" system; after six tries I gave up.

Cryhavoc

My Feedback: (46)

I had the same problem at the aerodrome but got it on the fourth try.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

I must have just been fortunate with the Aerodrome, got hooked up on the first try. I would like to do Koverall on the Dr as well, but even Sig does not have stock until the middle of January! Have had some on order from my LHS since early summer. This concerns me about avalibility in the future. I still have not decided on the cover. I am tempted to just use the Solartex in white and paint that. Woul be interesting to know the weight difference. I have read where some have used dress cloth from the fabric store. I plan on sealing the airframe with sanding sealer and using latex for the colors and seal with polyurethane. Do a search and you will find a ton of information.

JEB

phklucz

HI guys. I have a question .What do you do if you want to have the under wing with onr colour and the top of the wing with the other when you use solartex?

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Use 2 different colors of SolarTex OR paint one side of the wing.

phklucz

Which one is better way to do? Using two colours on one wing would be harder i guess.

bps

My Feedback: (3)

Gentlemen,

Two covering colors are a snap with Solartex. Seams can be hidden very effectivly.

Here is what I plan on doing now with my Dr1. Had considered covering with Sig Koverall. I have found Solartex in light blue and olive drab. This stuff covers so well I have no problem overlaping the two colors to make a joint. I will cover the bottom of the wings and stabilizer in light blue and the tops in olive drab. Fuse bottom in blue, sides and top in olive drab along with the top of the stabilizer. All the streaking will be done with latex and a foam brush. I have some white tex for the tail and I think I will try to use the white tex as a background for the cross's on the fuse and wing bottoms. The white backgrounds looked much whiter on the fuse and wing bottom than on the wing top. So the wing top white areas will be painted on with latex. The cross's will be cut vinyl and the entire plane will be sprayed with flat poly.