Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
#351
Senior Member
My Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fitchburg,
MA
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
i use a similar building board, but shim the working surface till it's a flat surface and not warped. don't expect the door under your building board to be perfectly flat. set your building board on it, set a 4' level across your board front edge and rear edge, then diagonal. use thin pcs of balsa to shim (1/32" & up) as necessary to make the board even w/ the 4' level. i build on hdo particle board, i have clamping pads of plywood i screw over the spars (into the particle board) to hold tight to the board, i never liked pinning because the spar can slide around. then i screw down a balsa building board for working on the tail section.
jon b
jon b
#352
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sacramento,
CA
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
What is an hdo particle board?
My door was/is perfectly flat. I used a 6' level to check it. The Celotex has some minor dips in it, which is where the little bits of unevenness comes from. It hasn't worked into my building though. At least, not yet.
My workbench is 80" x 30". A 4' level would not even begin to make sure it is perfectly flat. I could not even imagine building on a workbench as small as 4'.
I do like the idea of the clamps.
I really wish I had a magnetic workbench.
My door was/is perfectly flat. I used a 6' level to check it. The Celotex has some minor dips in it, which is where the little bits of unevenness comes from. It hasn't worked into my building though. At least, not yet.
My workbench is 80" x 30". A 4' level would not even begin to make sure it is perfectly flat. I could not even imagine building on a workbench as small as 4'.
I do like the idea of the clamps.
I really wish I had a magnetic workbench.
ORIGINAL: jb86
i use a similar building board, but shim the working surface till it's a flat surface and not warped. don't expect the door under your building board to be perfectly flat. set your building board on it, set a 4' level across your board front edge and rear edge, then diagonal. use thin pcs of balsa to shim (1/32" & up) as necessary to make the board even w/ the 4' level. i build on hdo particle board, i have clamping pads of plywood i screw over the spars (into the particle board) to hold tight to the board, i never liked pinning because the spar can slide around. then i screw down a balsa building board for working on the tail section.
jon b
i use a similar building board, but shim the working surface till it's a flat surface and not warped. don't expect the door under your building board to be perfectly flat. set your building board on it, set a 4' level across your board front edge and rear edge, then diagonal. use thin pcs of balsa to shim (1/32" & up) as necessary to make the board even w/ the 4' level. i build on hdo particle board, i have clamping pads of plywood i screw over the spars (into the particle board) to hold tight to the board, i never liked pinning because the spar can slide around. then i screw down a balsa building board for working on the tail section.
jon b
#353
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
ORIGINAL: RVM
I almost did the MDF but went for a door instead. I may go back to the MDF and put some foam insulation or something between it and the 2x4s on my bench to absorb any minor imperfections (I don't see any, but you never know).
Did you use 3/4" MDF or 5/8"? I am trying to find 1" but no one seems to have any locally.
I almost did the MDF but went for a door instead. I may go back to the MDF and put some foam insulation or something between it and the 2x4s on my bench to absorb any minor imperfections (I don't see any, but you never know).
Did you use 3/4" MDF or 5/8"? I am trying to find 1" but no one seems to have any locally.
#354
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurelia, IA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
I have a Question concerning the cowl. I have a OS FS-III 1.20 4 stroke. Sideways mounted. I'm going to have to cut a small opening on the cowl for the heads to fit. But what should I do for the exhaust? I could have the exhaust facing mostly backward and cut a HUGE hole in the bottom of the cowl, or position it 90 degrees sideways (the exhaust fumes will be exiting on the left of the aircraft) and cut a small hole.This is hard to explain so bear with me....Is it alright to have the exhaust opening in the slipstream? It would be 90 degrees of where it should be. Does this offer any disadvantages? Let me know what u think, and what u've done.
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
#355
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
ORIGINAL: davesteemke
I have a Question concerning the cowl. I have a OS FS-III 1.20 4 stroke. Sideways mounted. I'm going to have to cut a small opening on the cowl for the heads to fit. But what should I do for the exhaust? I could have the exhaust facing mostly backward and cut a HUGE hole in the bottom of the cowl, or position it 90 degrees sideways (the exhaust fumes will be exiting on the left of the aircraft) and cut a small hole.This is hard to explain so bear with me....Is it alright to have the exhaust opening in the slipstream? It would be 90 degrees of where it should be. Does this offer any disadvantages? Let me know what u think, and what u've done.
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
I have a Question concerning the cowl. I have a OS FS-III 1.20 4 stroke. Sideways mounted. I'm going to have to cut a small opening on the cowl for the heads to fit. But what should I do for the exhaust? I could have the exhaust facing mostly backward and cut a HUGE hole in the bottom of the cowl, or position it 90 degrees sideways (the exhaust fumes will be exiting on the left of the aircraft) and cut a small hole.This is hard to explain so bear with me....Is it alright to have the exhaust opening in the slipstream? It would be 90 degrees of where it should be. Does this offer any disadvantages? Let me know what u think, and what u've done.
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
I don't think it really matters where your exhaust is pointing as long as it is able to push the exhaust away from your plane. If you look at RCDon's Ultimate Smoke II project you'll se he's got the exhaust pointing out pretty far.
http://www.rcdon.com/html/the_ultimate_project.html
Here's some pictures of how I had mine set up.
#356
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sacramento,
CA
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
I'd say make your life a lot less painful and use a Pitts.
ORIGINAL: davesteemke
I have a Question concerning the cowl. I have a OS FS-III 1.20 4 stroke. Sideways mounted. I'm going to have to cut a small opening on the cowl for the heads to fit. But what should I do for the exhaust? I could have the exhaust facing mostly backward and cut a HUGE hole in the bottom of the cowl, or position it 90 degrees sideways (the exhaust fumes will be exiting on the left of the aircraft) and cut a small hole.This is hard to explain so bear with me....Is it alright to have the exhaust opening in the slipstream? It would be 90 degrees of where it should be. Does this offer any disadvantages? Let me know what u think, and what u've done.
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
I have a Question concerning the cowl. I have a OS FS-III 1.20 4 stroke. Sideways mounted. I'm going to have to cut a small opening on the cowl for the heads to fit. But what should I do for the exhaust? I could have the exhaust facing mostly backward and cut a HUGE hole in the bottom of the cowl, or position it 90 degrees sideways (the exhaust fumes will be exiting on the left of the aircraft) and cut a small hole.This is hard to explain so bear with me....Is it alright to have the exhaust opening in the slipstream? It would be 90 degrees of where it should be. Does this offer any disadvantages? Let me know what u think, and what u've done.
Thanks 4 Your Time,
Dave
#357
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurelia, IA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Thanks 4 the info. I've spent quite a bit of $ on this project, trying to see if i can use what I got. Your pictures helped greatly. I'm going to go out to the shop and see what i can do. Thanks Again,
Dave
Dave
#358
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Man it's hard as heck to get time in the shop. Between good flying weather, inlaws visiting and honey do lists I haven't got squat done. [>:]
I did squeek an hour in tonight and mostly finished the bottom half of the top wing.
How is everyone else doing on their builds?
I did squeek an hour in tonight and mostly finished the bottom half of the top wing.
How is everyone else doing on their builds?
#359
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Tony,
I just happen to come across this thread and you're really doing a great job on your model. Sorry to hear about the mishap with your first Ultimate. I think we've all been there before. I started on my Ultimate a couple of months ago but got deployed to Iraq [:@] I had just finished framing up the wings. Now I won't get back to it for 6-12 months [] Anyway, by that time I'll have some more funds and I can add lots of goodies to my model I've gotten so many great ideas from you and the other contributers in this post. I noticed your aileron servo arms exit the top of the bottom wing. I was wondering is there any reason the aileron servo arms can't exit from the bottom of the bottom wing? It's been awhile since I've been able to look at my kit but I remember for some reason I wanted to have the servos exit the bottom of the bottom wing. I think to me it just gave the model a cleaner look, at least from the top. I also noticed that quite a few people are using the Sato 125. I have a old YS 120 SC I was planning on putting on mine. Any advantages of using the Sato over the YS?
Keep up the good work. I'll be following your build.
I just happen to come across this thread and you're really doing a great job on your model. Sorry to hear about the mishap with your first Ultimate. I think we've all been there before. I started on my Ultimate a couple of months ago but got deployed to Iraq [:@] I had just finished framing up the wings. Now I won't get back to it for 6-12 months [] Anyway, by that time I'll have some more funds and I can add lots of goodies to my model I've gotten so many great ideas from you and the other contributers in this post. I noticed your aileron servo arms exit the top of the bottom wing. I was wondering is there any reason the aileron servo arms can't exit from the bottom of the bottom wing? It's been awhile since I've been able to look at my kit but I remember for some reason I wanted to have the servos exit the bottom of the bottom wing. I think to me it just gave the model a cleaner look, at least from the top. I also noticed that quite a few people are using the Sato 125. I have a old YS 120 SC I was planning on putting on mine. Any advantages of using the Sato over the YS?
Keep up the good work. I'll be following your build.
#360
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
ORIGINAL: maekju
Tony,
I just happen to come across this thread and you're really doing a great job on your model. Sorry to hear about the mishap with your first Ultimate. I think we've all been there before. I started on my Ultimate a couple of months ago but got deployed to Iraq [:@] I had just finished framing up the wings. Now I won't get back to it for 6-12 months [] Anyway, by that time I'll have some more funds and I can add lots of goodies to my model I've gotten so many great ideas from you and the other contributers in this post. I noticed your aileron servo arms exit the top of the bottom wing. I was wondering is there any reason the aileron servo arms can't exit from the bottom of the bottom wing? It's been awhile since I've been able to look at my kit but I remember for some reason I wanted to have the servos exit the bottom of the bottom wing. I think to me it just gave the model a cleaner look, at least from the top. I also noticed that quite a few people are using the Sato 125. I have a old YS 120 SC I was planning on putting on mine. Any advantages of using the Sato over the YS?
Keep up the good work. I'll be following your build.
Tony,
I just happen to come across this thread and you're really doing a great job on your model. Sorry to hear about the mishap with your first Ultimate. I think we've all been there before. I started on my Ultimate a couple of months ago but got deployed to Iraq [:@] I had just finished framing up the wings. Now I won't get back to it for 6-12 months [] Anyway, by that time I'll have some more funds and I can add lots of goodies to my model I've gotten so many great ideas from you and the other contributers in this post. I noticed your aileron servo arms exit the top of the bottom wing. I was wondering is there any reason the aileron servo arms can't exit from the bottom of the bottom wing? It's been awhile since I've been able to look at my kit but I remember for some reason I wanted to have the servos exit the bottom of the bottom wing. I think to me it just gave the model a cleaner look, at least from the top. I also noticed that quite a few people are using the Sato 125. I have a old YS 120 SC I was planning on putting on mine. Any advantages of using the Sato over the YS?
Keep up the good work. I'll be following your build.
I'm glad you've been able to get some good ideas out of this thread. I certainly have learned a lot.
As for the Aileron arms, you could easily have them come out the top or the bottom. The wings are fairly thin and symetrical, so you could stick the servo arm on either side and it would work just fine. Obviously you'd have the risk of whacking the servo arm on a bumpy landing, but you'd probably have bigger problems if that part of the wing was whacking the ground.
My draw to the Saito 1.25 was the light weight of it. I believe the weight of the YS 120 would be a little more, but I'm not sure. I'm sure there are some others that could tell you more about the engine comparison.
I'm going to go flying today, but I'll be working on mine tonight. Oh crap, never mind the wife wants me to take her out to dinner for Mothers Day... Grrr [:@] hehe Boy, it's hard to find time to build in the summer.
Stay safe!
#362
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
OK guys, need some advice.
I finished both wing's up to the point where I'm putting the TE & Aileron stuff on and luck would have it 3 out of 4 of the Aileron stock in the kit are warped too badly to fix. I figured I'd just go buy some, but unfortunately I can't find anywhere that sells Aileron stock this big. I need 1/2 inch wide by 1-3/4 long Aileron stock & the largest I can find is 3/8 inch. [:@]
This got me to thinking a little becuase the Ultimate appears to be lacking in the Aileron department for 3D type flying, so I wonder what you guys would think of going to 2 inch Aileron's versus 1-3/4 inch? I saw that http://www.nationalbalsa.com has 3/8 x 2 Aileron stock and I could glue 1/16 sheeting on each side of it to build it up to 1/2 " and have an extra 1/4 inch of surface length available.
Should I call goldberg & have them send me some new ones or should I try to build up bigger ailerons?
I finished both wing's up to the point where I'm putting the TE & Aileron stuff on and luck would have it 3 out of 4 of the Aileron stock in the kit are warped too badly to fix. I figured I'd just go buy some, but unfortunately I can't find anywhere that sells Aileron stock this big. I need 1/2 inch wide by 1-3/4 long Aileron stock & the largest I can find is 3/8 inch. [:@]
This got me to thinking a little becuase the Ultimate appears to be lacking in the Aileron department for 3D type flying, so I wonder what you guys would think of going to 2 inch Aileron's versus 1-3/4 inch? I saw that http://www.nationalbalsa.com has 3/8 x 2 Aileron stock and I could glue 1/16 sheeting on each side of it to build it up to 1/2 " and have an extra 1/4 inch of surface length available.
Should I call goldberg & have them send me some new ones or should I try to build up bigger ailerons?
#363
Senior Member
My Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: fitchburg,
MA
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
the great planes .60 extra 300 uses a built up aileron. 1/16" sheeting top and bottom, about a 3/8" square balsa leading edge and ribs about evry 2". if laminated on a flat surface, they are straight and flat, strong and very light compared to solid stock, and built to exactly the proper size. not hard to build, granted a little extra time w/4 ailerons, but worthwhile.
jon b
jon b
#364
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurelia, IA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Thanks 4 your service Maekju. Hope everything goes well.
I've been assembling my new (thanks to tuwood's generosity) wheel pants and cowl. I've finished the primer coat and tomorrow will start on color coat. Took me awhile to figure out how to do my exhaust. I wanted to minimize the hole i'd have to put in the cowl. The pics you guys showed me helped out alot. Thanks again. Other than that, break in the engine & smoke pump, some radio mods, & I'll be flying. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it.Quick question: the two bolts holding on the bottom wing, are they adequate for the job. It looks to me , if a wing edge gets bumped the bolts will rip apart the wood. Would I be safer with 4 bolts?
I'll have some Pics in a few days.
Dave
I've been assembling my new (thanks to tuwood's generosity) wheel pants and cowl. I've finished the primer coat and tomorrow will start on color coat. Took me awhile to figure out how to do my exhaust. I wanted to minimize the hole i'd have to put in the cowl. The pics you guys showed me helped out alot. Thanks again. Other than that, break in the engine & smoke pump, some radio mods, & I'll be flying. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it.Quick question: the two bolts holding on the bottom wing, are they adequate for the job. It looks to me , if a wing edge gets bumped the bolts will rip apart the wood. Would I be safer with 4 bolts?
I'll have some Pics in a few days.
Dave
#365
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
ORIGINAL: davesteemke
Thanks 4 your service Maekju. Hope everything goes well.
I've been assembling my new (thanks to tuwood's generosity) wheel pants and cowl. I've finished the primer coat and tomorrow will start on color coat. Took me awhile to figure out how to do my exhaust. I wanted to minimize the hole i'd have to put in the cowl. The pics you guys showed me helped out alot. Thanks again. Other than that, break in the engine & smoke pump, some radio mods, & I'll be flying. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it.Quick question: the two bolts holding on the bottom wing, are they adequate for the job. It looks to me , if a wing edge gets bumped the bolts will rip apart the wood. Would I be safer with 4 bolts?
I'll have some Pics in a few days.
Dave
Thanks 4 your service Maekju. Hope everything goes well.
I've been assembling my new (thanks to tuwood's generosity) wheel pants and cowl. I've finished the primer coat and tomorrow will start on color coat. Took me awhile to figure out how to do my exhaust. I wanted to minimize the hole i'd have to put in the cowl. The pics you guys showed me helped out alot. Thanks again. Other than that, break in the engine & smoke pump, some radio mods, & I'll be flying. I'm getting nervous just thinking about it.Quick question: the two bolts holding on the bottom wing, are they adequate for the job. It looks to me , if a wing edge gets bumped the bolts will rip apart the wood. Would I be safer with 4 bolts?
I'll have some Pics in a few days.
Dave
I just took a couple pictures of my firsts bottom wing and you'll notice that even during a violent crash the bolts held on just fine. I also noticed that the two blocks which hold the wing on sheered out pretty clean, so I'm going to reinforce that joint on the next one with some triangle stock. I also recall someone posting earlier to fuelproof this area because exhaust can seep in.
#366
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Here are a few pictures from this weekend. Nothing major accomplished, but I did get the top wing done so I have both wings completed with exception of the TE & Ailerons.
I'm going to call Goldberg today to see if they'll send me some more aileron stock.
I'm going to call Goldberg today to see if they'll send me some more aileron stock.
#367
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Just got off the phone with Goldberg & they're sending me new Aileron pieces tomorrow. I actually noticed on their site that you can buy the aileron bundle for $2.00. I even offered to pay for it and they said it was no problem and they'll send them to me.
#368
Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Aurelia, IA
Posts: 30
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Glad to hear you were able to locate some ailerons, tuwood. Thanks 4 the pictures & info . of the bottom wing mount. I'll try and reinforce the same area. I'll probably have a few "hot" landings the first couple of times, till I'm use to the aircraft, so I'm trying to avoid any breakage the first few flights. Thanks Again,
Dave
PS I was refurbishing my old 4*40, and I'm taking off some old covering. Seems like it took my 1 hour just to do 6 square inches. Does anyone know of an easy way to remove covering? I tried heating it up, but it seemed to make matters worse. I either got it to hot when covering and melted it to the wood or some CA soaked through the balsa sheeting.
Dave
PS I was refurbishing my old 4*40, and I'm taking off some old covering. Seems like it took my 1 hour just to do 6 square inches. Does anyone know of an easy way to remove covering? I tried heating it up, but it seemed to make matters worse. I either got it to hot when covering and melted it to the wood or some CA soaked through the balsa sheeting.
#369
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: kinrooi, BELGIUM
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Hi all, loved following the posts and the comments. I have a ulti myself, not a Carl Goldberg, but would like the share some pictures of mine with you.
#372
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: kinrooi, BELGIUM
Posts: 152
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Glad you like it.
It flies like a dream, 73 inch, 16.5 pounds, DA 50. Built almost a year to finish it (but I am a slow builder ) It does everything I want without any bad habbits at all.
It flies like a dream, 73 inch, 16.5 pounds, DA 50. Built almost a year to finish it (but I am a slow builder ) It does everything I want without any bad habbits at all.
#373
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Paris, AR
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
Tony,hows the build coming?I started on the Ultimate kit I had under the bench.Wind and humidity have been terrible here,soI needed something to do.Imsurprised at how easy the wings build,if Id pay attention(shear webbed a whole panel).Hope to finish the bottom wing tomorrow.Im in no hurry,I really dont have room for another plane,but I found that I enjoy building more than I did years ago.Give us an update.
#374
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
The darn summer is getting in the way of my build time, so I haven't really gotten any more done on it yet. Golf & Flying are taking up a lot of time and I've also got a couple "beater" plane's that I put together in the last month so that cuts into it as well. OMP Katana 46 (profile plane) & a 30% BME Edge.
I say beater plane because they're ARF's.
I agree that the wings were pretty darn easy to build. On the second kit I flew through them so fast it was amazing. It almost seemed like I finished the first one in just a few hours. I'm sure the full sheer webbing will just add a little extra strength, but the down side is you have to hand cut the other side of the wing.
Once I get my Edge finished I'll start in again on the bad weather days.
Post some pictures if you can.
I say beater plane because they're ARF's.
I agree that the wings were pretty darn easy to build. On the second kit I flew through them so fast it was amazing. It almost seemed like I finished the first one in just a few hours. I'm sure the full sheer webbing will just add a little extra strength, but the down side is you have to hand cut the other side of the wing.
Once I get my Edge finished I'll start in again on the bad weather days.
Post some pictures if you can.
#375
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Omaha,
NE
Posts: 841
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Goldberg Ultimate 10-300 build
BTW, Corsair, that is one sweet looking Ultie.
Which kit is that? I might have to put that one on the radar screen.
Which kit is that? I might have to put that one on the radar screen.