Elwood

My Feedback: (2)

I built the wing for dual aileron servos. I am going to glue the servo onto the access door with the control horn poking out through a hole. Could you answer the following?

Will 1/16 lite-ply be enough? I am going to screw it into hard balsa or spruce that will be glued to the ribs.

Will the stock 4 hole Futaba control horn be long enough for decent throw?

Thanks for your help!

Dave Barrow-RCU

I wouldn't recommend glueing the servo itself to the lite ply, screw it onto a couple pieces of 1/4-3/8" square hardwood about 1 1/4-1 1/2" long, then glue them to the lite ply. The 1/16 lite ply might be a little thin, 3/32" would work better. I would also recommend screw the ply to hardwood blocks glued to the ribs. As to the servo arm, if the aileron horn has a hole close to the surface, you should get pretty good throw, put the pushrod on the in the inner hole of the horn and outer hole of the arm.

Kevlar

My Feedback: (47)

I built the 4*60 that required out board servos for the ailerons, with lite ply and hard wood blocks. 1/16 should be ok for the 40 but if you can manage the 3/32 or 1/8 it might work better. As for the control horns, I used the double horn as opposed to the quad horn, checked for clearance and trimmed accordingly. Before you mark the screw holes, hold the servo against the access door, and confirm movement in both fore and aft directions. Shim as needed to get full movement and control access for you ailerons. It will work!!!

Flypaper 2

I would use aircraft ply or birch ply. I have them on a 1/4 scale Cap 10, no problems.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I would use regular 1/16 ply. I would also do something more than just butt glue the end of the rail to the ply door. Put a little screw in from the ply side or put balsa bracing around it. You really don't want the servo mounts coming loose in flight.

As for gluing, I have glued numerous servos into both balsa and foam wings with silicone. It's a pain when you want to get them out, but it does hold and gives vibration isolation. I have never had the silicone glue joint fail, but I have broken balsa ribs out and had foam tear apart. Not with small ailerons like the 4-Star 40 has, however.

Elwood

My Feedback: (2)

So a dab of clear silicone glue will be fine? I can also use servo tape. It shouldn't get any fuel on it way out there!

big max 1935

My Feedback: (9)

I am probably too late with this , but why use a hatch. A simple hole with a couple cross rails and a balsa frame around hole will work fine.I have done this with my last two 4 stars.Standard size servos will work if you have hole close to spars. If you do tape or glue in servo, use a good Scotch tape on servos first,easier to remove for next plane. Hatches will not make a 4 star look better it is a lost cause.HA HA I believe in the K.I.S.S. theory. Good luck AMA14958

stick flyer

I would suggest that you check out this web site. I have used his ideas and have a plane that has been in use the past three years without any problems using this method of mounting wing servo's. If you have additional questions Clay Ramskill will reply to you. www.mindspring.com/~cramskill/imkclay.htm After geting to the home page go to HINTS and then page down to wing mounted servo's. It is a rather easy method and it works.

Good Luck and keep them 10 mistakes high

Stick Flyer