tashley

My Feedback: (9)

Steve, I noticed you're using Titebond and it's a good glue for balsa and plywood but it can be heavy. Use it sparingly. It dosen't take a lot of alpahtic resin glue to get the job done and your model will love you for it.

teufelhund

My Feedback: (2)

tigerdude426, as Tashley said about the glue, keep in mind LIGHTER flies better especially in the case of a small model. This Eastbourne weight was 18-21 ounces, mine is 16oz even. The build looks good so far, keep up the nice work and pics. Ben

shd3920

LATEST UPDATE ON FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

Photos 1, 2, 3 & 4: 1/16� aft sheeting installed between braces to accompany pushrod exit slots.
Photo 5: Landing gear side blocks installed inside fuselage halves (groove facing inside of fuselage.
Photos 6 & 7: Fuselage blocked up with shelf brackets, pins and tape in preparation for next steps (installing top & bottom cross braces).
Photos 8 & 9: Top & bottom cross braces cut and sanded to equal lengths. Landing gear bottom block used for reference to correct length of braces.
Photos 10 & 11: 18X1/4 bottom cross braces installed with thin CA.
Photo 12: 1/8X1/4 top braces installed with thin CA.

Flytoolow

My Feedback: (17)

Here is mine, minus the power system...i have made a few changes....

shd3920

Very nice Flytoolow. Did you get a chance to fly that baby yet? If so, how does it handle?

My scheme is going to be red base color with black diagonal stripes.

Here is some of my latest:


Photo 1: Landing gear block installed at bottom of fuselage.
Photos 2 & 3: Fuselage landing gear blocks glued on inside fuselage.
Photos 4, 5 & 6: Aft of fuselage completed and tail section joined.
Photo 7: Nearly completed bottom fuselage.
Photos 8 & 9: Firewall glued in place. Front of fuselage near completion.

shd3920

HERE IS THE COMPLETED FUSELAGE AND TEMPORARILY INSTALLED MOTOR AND LANDING GEAR:

Explanation - - - I am having a problem uploading pics from my camera's memory card detailing the completion of the fuselage. I will try again to get them off the card, but I do not believe I will be able to, I believe those pics are lost [:@].

None-the-less, here is the completed fuselage with all the sheeting done, trimmed and sanded. My motor is temporarily installed - had my LHS solder longer wires onto the motor to better be able to reach into the fuselage and connect.

Landing gear is only PLACED into postion without screws to get a peek at how it would look.

EDIT: no, no, no: Sorry wasn't able to upload the pics from memory card, so I do not have the detailed building shots of the step-to-step completion. But hope you all like how it came out. If anyone is interested I can write up a detailed step plan on how I completed the fuselage!!!

Later for now.

Flytoolow

My Feedback: (17)

Nope, haven't flowen her yet. I had a fence jump out and grab my T-Rex the other day. Sooo, I am spending the money on repairing that. I was going to use the money to put a motor in her, but i am unsure of what to use, any ideas?

acobra

My Feedback: (40)

Hi All:
Nice thread on a good plane. for any of you out there who still like em oily the mini makes a great small glo plane also. Next to nothing different is done. I simply relocated the firewall so the prop was in the same location. I used 2-HS85's and a HS55 with a 225 mil pack and 2 oz tank with an OS10 but that's really more power than needed, a .065 or even .049 would be great. I did put ailerons on it but ended up taking the servo out fixing them solid and flying on rudder as designed. Don't bother with ailerons.
Frank

shd3920

I am going to use a Park 400 Outrunner brushless 740 Kv electric motor in mine. I have not had it running in the fuselage yet but it runs very nice OUTSIDE the fuselage. It is a very powerful motor full-throttle, so I will only need to use half-throttle during most of the flights. This seems to be a great combo for this kit, but a slight modification was needed to install to firewall. Prob any 400 speed motor and ESC no more than 20amps should work fine on this kit.

You will prob fly sooner than me so let me know.

shd3920

Tail feathers (1/8 sq & 1/8X1/4 balsa) and control surfaces (1/8 aileron stock) completed, modified with permanent tricycle gear.

shd3920

CONSTRUCTING THE WING, PART 1 - Right panel build:

Hardwood spar pinned to the plan with one end aligned with the tip rib, with the excess extending beyond the center rib location.

All ribs, excluding center rib, glued in place with thin CA.

Tapered trailing edge pinned and glued in place.

RS1, RS2 & RS3 glued in place.

Center rib glued in place at the angle formed by the RS pieces.

Gussets cut from 1/16 sheet and glued in place at the trailing edge and left side of ribs and right side of center rib.

shd3920

WING CONSTRUCTION, PART 2 – Continued right panel build:

Top hardwood spar and wing tip installed as follows:

End of spar cut at an angle as illustrated on plans to meet wing tip.

Wing tip glued in place with medium CA at angle shown on plans, then hardwood spar glued in place against wing tip and on top of all ribs.

1/4 sq. leading edge cut at proper angle at wing tip and glued in place against all rib tips and at wing tip. When dry rounded leading edge tip to shape according to plans.

1/8 sq. turbulator spars glued in place on top front of ribs as shown on plans. The end of both spars cut at an angle to match wing tip angle and fit against tip.

This finishes the right wing panel for now until the joining of the two panels.

shd3920

CONSTRUCTION UPDATE POST:

Photos 1, 2, 3 & 4: Left and right panel completed now. Just waiting for the joining of the two panels to finish the wing.

Photos 5, 6 & 7: Both panels placed up to each other to check for alignment.

Photos 8 & 9: All finished components placed on the building table for viewing.

Photo 10: Tail feathers and control surfaces hinged (NOT GLUED) to check for alignment.

shd3920

WING CONSTRUCTION, PART THREE - Joining the panels:

Photo 1: Slots cut out for dihedral brace.
Photo 2: Panels side-by-side ready for joining.
Photo 3: Right panel brace epoxied in place.
Photos 4, 5, 6 & 7: Panels epoxied together, set aside overnight to dry.

shd3920

Photo 1: Removing clothespins after over-night dry period.

Photos 2 & 3: Panels neatly joined together, looking pretty good.

Photos 4, 5 & 6: Shear webbing (1/16 sheeting) glued in place. 1/8 sq. filler pieces cut from scrap balsa stock and glued in place on the center ribs between the main and turbulator spars.

Photos 7, 8 & 9: Completed wing. Leading edge sanded to rounded edge, and wing block-sanded smooth.

Photo 10: 1/8�X1/4 scrap balsa installed behind windshield. Instructions called for a piece of scrap trailing edge to be glued here, checking the wing for fit, trimming and sanding to shape. I found that to be too complicated so I am using a 1/4X1/8 stock instead, then applying RTV silicone atop that piece and the length of the wing saddle to help cushion the wing.

shd3920

Photo 1: Silicone brushed on and dried overnight on top and rear of windshield and length of wing saddle.
Photos 2 & 3: Servo rails glued in place with Titebond II. Holes drilled for servo screws.
Photos 4 & 5: Servos temporarily installed.

QUESTION > > > servos tend to be noisy when turned on? Is this normal? There is currently no pushrod tubes or pushrods installed yet so there is nothing there to bind. It's like a noisy motor running when just idle. They work beautifully with no troubles whatsoever, just noisy?

EDIT, in case you are wondering, the servo arms are misaligned while off, but once the TX is turned on they correctly align themselves to be straight.

LaCerne

My Feedback: (16)

Thanks for the build thread, I've been enjoying your posts. I'm to the point of starting the second wing panel. I think Hobby Lobby should use your photos in the manual. The manual isn't too bad, it just takes a couple of reads for me to be sure what's next. Thanks for taking the extra time to keep the thread updated.

Larsen

theo63

hey tiger its looking really good,what inspired you to do a electric one??

shd3920

Thank you theo63. Two things inspired me: The fact that I have now built numerable glow power (LT-40, Air Scout, PT-40, among others) that I wanted to try electric for a change of pace. It was very costly to get started (kit, electric motor, Electric Speed Control, charger, TX, batteries, etc. - over $300) but I am enjoying the build.

Another thing that inspired me was videos. I have watched sample vids of electric planes and love the realistic-sounding motors (they are quite a bit more realistic sounding than glow in my opinion)

And thank you LaCerne: 1st - glad to hear you are enjoying my work. 2nd - good to hear you are building one also, is my thread any help? 3rd - don't think my photos are THAT good, but thanx anyway. And lastly - I am NOT happy with the manual as it has NO photos to follow along with and I like looking at the photos (better chance of getting the steps correct if you can see it being done)

LATEST UPDATE: I have installed the pushrod tubes. I am using a micro control rod package purchased at LHS (nylon tubes with thin piano wire, pushrod connectors [where the wire slides thru and a screw on top tightens it in] at the servo arm end, and quicklink connectors at the control surfaces).

I 1st (after first measuring and cutting the tubes and rods to length) measured out the rod supports out of 1/4 sq. balsa and placed them (NO GLUE) between the fuselage braces one at a time (4 total) and measured a straight line from the servo arms thru the fuselage and exiting in back of fuselage at pushrod exit holes I cut out previously.
2nd I marked the drill holes where the pushrod tubes will go thru the supports, keeping it all nice and straight. [P.S: I DID THESE STEPS WITH THE RODS INSIDE THE TUBES].
3rd I removed the supports from the fuselage (remember I did not glue them in yet) and drilled the holes for the tubes.
4th I returned the supports inside the fuselage where they were, measured for straightness again and finally slid the inserted pushrod in and out of the tube to check for smoothness, first by hand then by servo.
5th and lastly I glued first the balsa supports in place with medium CA, and when that was dry I glued the pushrod tubes into the supports with medium CA.

shd3920

OK, HERE IS WHERE I AM AT THE MOMENT:

Photos 1, 2 & 3 - Setting up alignment with laser.

Photos 4 & 5 - body shot.

Photos 6 - 10 - tail end shot.

Photos 11 & 12 - alignment marks for attaching to fuselage. Photo 11 is the attachment to fuselage and photo 12 is attachment of fin.

shd3920

THE FOLLOWING POSTS ARE BUILDING UPDATES THAT I HAVE ACCOMPLISHED SINCE 3-7-06.
I have not been able to get to a computer for a long enough period of time to post my progress so I am doing it all tonight. Keep in mind that this work was done throughout many days work throughout the past week and not just on one or two days. Hope you enjoy!!!


BEGINNING OF COVERING PROCEDURES

Photos 1 & 2: trailing edge of fin (hinge-line) covered.
Photos 3 & 4: leading edge of rudder (hinge-line) covered.
Photos 5, 6 & 7: Hinges first permanently installed on fin/rudder, flexed back and forth about a dozen times to loosen-up the movement of the glued hinges. Then both sides of first the fin and then the rudder covered.
Photos 8, 9 & 10: leading edge of elevator (hinge-line) covered.
Photo 11: trailing edge of stabilizer (hinge-line) covered.
Photo 12: Hinges permanently installed on stabilizer/elevator, flexed back and forth about a dozen times to loosen-up the movement of the glued hinges.

shd3920

COVERING PROCEDURES CONTINUED

Photos 1, 2, 3 & 4: Now stabilizer and elevator are covered. First the bottom of the elevator was covered in two separate halves, then the top also in two separate halves. Second the bottom of the stabilizer was covered, then the top.
Photo 5: Covering removed from top-center of stabilizer to accommodate the fin.
Photo 6: Covering removed from bottom-center of stabilizer to accommodate the attachment to the fuselage.
Photos 7 & 8: Fin permanently glued to stabilizer with 12-minute epoxy.

shd3920

COVERING PROCEDURES CONTINUED – THE PAINTING

Both the motor compartment (firewall and cheeks) and landing gear block groove painted red to match the covering.

shd3920

COVERING THE FUSELAGE

Bottom of fuselage covered (sorry about the quality of the pics, coming out bad lately. The covering here is actually red although it may look orange).

Single piece from rear of fuselage (tail-end) to rear of landing gear block groove. And another single piece from front of landing gear block groove to motor compartment, including the edges of motor compartment (top edges of cheeks).

shd3920

Left side of fuselage now covered, pushrod exit cut and sanded flush with fuselage. Then a slit of covering removed to expose pushrod exit slot.

Wing dowel holes opened up after covering. Did this by cutting an X-slit in the hole, then pushing the dowel into the hole. Then cutting away the edges of the covering that pushed out with the dowel.