Kelsey_B

A little more progress

Pic one shows a balsa strip. The flaps will be cut to this strip.

The second pic shows 1/8 balsa webs. This is needed so the curved flaps will hold their shape.

All of this is Dion style!

Kelsey_B

Here you can see the LG blocks. I will reinforce these after the wing is flipped over.

Most of the top sheeting is done. You can tell I'm struggling with it a little. It will take some filler and sanding to smooth out. The other side got better.

I have one small area to finish, and then I will be ready pop the wing off and start the underside. I'm pretty excited about trying the flaps.

Live Wire

You no there are some tricks us old dogs learned as pups all looks good it will take sanding but most take a lot of sanding then you sand some more[:@]

Kelsey_B

This 3/32 sheeting has been difficult to work with. But the thick sheeting also means you can sand a little more to smooth out the rough spots. I anticipated doing a much neater job. More pics coming soon. I have finished all of the top and bottom TE sheeting. The last piece of TE in the curved area is a solid pc of balsa. That has been glued in and sanded. I'm finally ready to cut the flaps. Will post more pics when they are cut.

Kelsey_B

A couple of pics showing sheeting

Kelsey_B

In the first pic, I'm drawing my flap lines. You can see that I am cutting the flaps deeper into the wing than shown on the drawing. I also extended the inner flap more towards the fuselage.

The next two show the aftermath. I'm not sure what the best tool for this is, but I wound using a couple of hack saws to cut the flaps.

The flap LE will now get capped with 3/8 balsa. I will have to make ply ends and webs to connect them.

The TE of the wing will be capped with 3/32 balsa. I also have to add blocks for the robart hinges.

dionysusbacchus

My Feedback: (25)

That wing is looking really good Kelsey! I'm very impressed!

Keep it going!

Dion

Here is a picture of my first Royal Corsair I built in 1984! Radio just quit on me in 1996 and she did a slow turn into the ground, what a great bird she was! No gear doors or retract tail wheel, O.S. .61.

Kelsey_B

Thanks Dion.

It was your thread that turned me onto this plane. Being able to scale the flaps is a really cool feature of this plane. For the next one, I plan to work on my rib drawings to incorporate the additional stringers and webbing, instead of doing it after everything is glued. For the flap hinges, I'm going try something kind of funky with the Robarts and conceal the pushrod.

All I have heard about Royal kits is how you have to sand everything, but this has been no harder than my topflite. Actually, I prefer this building method over the topflite.

Now, if anyone is interested in making one of these, here is what the complete wing drawing looks like. Each square represents what can be printed full scale on a "c" size sheet (22 x 17). I can send it in autocad, or possibly make a pdf file for each square that could be printed a Kinkos. I'm assuming they would print from a disk, but I don't know. I will publish the fuselage parts when that drawing is complete.

God forbid, but I'm considering going thru this same process on a Royal P-38. I think that drawing would look like a bunch or rectangular blocks.

We have to keep this kit alive. Its a great one.

jaka

Hi!
Some friendly advise ! Never use red, Sullivan golden rods for aileron control together with a 90 degree linkage...there will be lots of play in that installation. A much better way is to use a separate servo for each aileron.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Kelsey_B

Hi Jan

Thanks for your interests in my little project.

Actually, I have always felt the same way. There was a time when I wouldn't consider bell cranks. There are numerous posts in the warbird forum recommending separate servos for ailerons. So, on my first corsair, each control surface had an individual servo. Now I have a 60 size corsair with eight servos. That just seems a little excessive to me. See pic for all the servos and hatches.

I decided on this plane to give the golden rod a try. My ball links move in fairly linear direction, the red outer case is glued to every rib, the bell cranks are drilled just to let the z-bend pass thru, and the bell cranks turn smoothly. I am very pleased with the operation. There is not excess slop or play, and the linkage is rigid. Now I don't have a servo hanging off of each wing tip.

I want to do another build with concealed linkages and no hatches. The golden rod lets you do this.

Live Wire

6 of one and a 1/2 dozen of the other builds it the way you want and injoy. Then if any thing goes wrong you can fix it. But be open to suggestions on up dates to the build there are alway's people that have found a better way and it does not alway's work[:@]
You are doing a great Job [sm=sunsmiley.gif]

HalH

My Feedback: (12)

Couldn't disagree with you more. It all depends on the support for the Nyrods, connections to the servo and the bellcranks, and to the aileron. Who needs the extra weight or expense of servos and extensions and "Y" harnesses ?

jaka

Hi!
I'm not againt the bellcranks ...use them myself ...but I have seen sullivan golden rods change lenght due to temperature changes...no fun if you constantly have to trim the ailerons.
And my experience from using them is that the rudder surface is never going to be as stiff as it could be if you used a different kind of pushrod system. My goal is to have all my flying surfaces so stiff that you could press nearly as hard as possible with your fingers without any deflection /bending on the surfaces at all.
I agree to having servos all over the place like on modern 3D models are not that nice.

Regards!

Kelsey_B

Looks there are some varying, strong opinions on the golden rod. I just wanted to simplify things and get rid of some of the hardware. I have already tried multiple servos on every surface, now I'm trying something new. Its gets pretty warm here in the summer, so well see what happens with thermal expansion. I do not plan to use the goldnrod anywhere else.

Here is a drawing showing my plans for flap hinges. There is a reason I want the pivot below the flaps, and that will become clear later.

Do you think "The Master" Dion would consider this scale?

Probably not. But that's not the reason for this hinging technique.

Live Wire

Kelsey_B
Where people have their problems is when they do not put the metal control wire on where it runs in the housing, and let the center flex by the control horn. I never use the All threads they give you because they do not give you the support under pressure. They only way you will get movement is when the cables are warm and can flex on the ends under load.

Kelsey_B

Larry,

Thanks for your interests in my build.

I will admit that I have not used the red goldenrod before, and I'm not completely sure I understand what you are trying to warn me about.

I think your concern is the threaded rod not being screwed into the yellow nyrod sufficiently, and being unsupported by the red casing. Also the red casing not having a support at the end. This would allow the threaded rod to flex the yellow nyrod and cause things to bind.

I can tell you that the wire threads into the nyrod about 1/2", and I think I made a support block for the end of the red casingbefore sheeting, but I'm not positive.

I will power up the servo and load the push rod with my hand and see if I experience any
binding.

Now would be the time to fix anything

Live Wire

You have the Idea , as long as the threaded rod is partly in the red housing and does not exite on full throw they will work great and will not flex. I wish I had the PC skills of some people then I could show you what I mean.

Kelsey_B

I think this will illustrate the problem. The top view is exaggerated. You don't get a whole lot of travel out of the servo. Maybe this will help someone else who may try the gold_n_rod.



Keith

v-snap

My Feedback: (18)

I have a aluminum cowl for this airplane if anyone is interested. My dad got it umpteen yrs ago when he was going to scratch build one. Yours is looking great.
I have experienced the golden rod issue, they due tend to expand and contract with temp changes. Just need to trim a little more. you can always change it later, with todays mini servos it would be a snap to make hatches on the wings for them in the future.

Kelsey_B

I will have some more pics tomorrow.

Here is what the complete fuse drawing looks like.

Kelsey_B

These flaps are taking a little time.

First pic shows flaps after being cut from wing and the LE sanded down 3/8".

Then each flap side is sanded to remove 1/16" and I glue in a 3/16 wedge for support.

After that, I glue on a 1/16 ply edge with a 1/16 wide slot. The only tricky part is to make sure that ply slots line up with each other on adjoining flap edges. If these are not perfect, the flaps will be offset with each other.

Kelsey_B

Next, I add two hinge blocks to each flap and mark their location.

The next two show the flaps tack glued to the wing. A piece of 3/8 balsa has been added to the flap LE.

Kelsey_B

In the next two, you see the hinge blocks in the wing and the Robart hinges.

When I get these operational, I post more pics.

v-snap

My Feedback: (18)

I found the cowl, it is in good condition and since I also found the plans I was able to match it to the fuse to be sure of the size. I will PM those that PM'd me on this, but be a little patient we are in the process of moving so returning messages may take some time.

Plane looks great.

Also found the plans for a cool gull wing sport plane from the 80's my dad had bought. May have to build and blow up those...

Kelsey_B

I have slowed down some. This part of the build has been a little difficult, and I tend not to work as hard when I get frustrated. Here the left flaps have been sanded and covered with Ultracote. This is my first Ultracote experience, and I really like the way it went on. Just as good if not better than Monokote. I still have to expoxy the ply webs and cover them. In the second pic, the ply webs are in place. I am pleased with flap alignment.

If anyone attempts this or just needs a new cowl. here is picture from Precision Fiberglass showing their Royal Corsair cowl.