scorpionsix

Hello:

I recently ordered a mini telemaster balsa kit and have some questions about the preferred method for cutting balsa. I have built two planes a long time ago when I was still in middle school, and remember using a simple razor or x-acto knife. I also remember the angles and fuselage not matching exactly to the blue prints.

Now as an adult with a little more patience and time, I wanted to inquire about what other modelers are using to make precise cuts when working with balsa kits.

Any pearls of wisdom or how-to's would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance! [sm=cool.gif]

Dr1Driver

First, take your time. No cut is any better than the measurement taken beforehand. Measure twice, cut once.

I have 5 favorite balsa cutting tools, depending on the application.

A #11 blade is my favorite tool. Change it often. Next would be an X-acto saw. Then I have a small Master Airscrew plane and balsa stripper. For large or repeated cuts, I use a band saw.

To make really accurate cuts, you don't need a knife or saw, you need a sanding block. I use 100 grit paper on a 3" x 5" pine block.

Dr.1

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

You name it, I got it. But I love this thing............................................. ........

Stickbuilder

The aforementioned tools are good, but for cross cutting, I prefer the Zona saw. They are very good at cutting light woods, and are based on the Japaneese Back saw. You can pick one up at your Local Hobby Shop with 3 different blades for under 10 bucks. I stick build, and scratch build, and I use mine hundreds of times on each model. My next favorite is the Razor plane and then the Balsa Stripper. I too use the old fashioned sanding block for shaping big old blocks of Balsa (I'm doing the wings on my 1/5th scale PICA WACO right now, and the Balsa dust is thick in the shop).

Balsacutter

My Feedback: (3)

With enough patience and care you can do anything with hand tools, but model-size power tools are a joy if you build enough balsa.

I find myself going to the Dremel table saw and a Delta disk sander over and over again. (Don't know if the Dremel table saw is still available, but Micro-Mark sells a "MicroLux" tool that looks equivalent.)

I've built entire stick-and-tissue models with Exacto knife and sandpaper, etc., but the fences on a table saw provide accuracy that's hard to match by hand. Or make a quick oversized cut and sand to exact dimension with the disk sander. You can sand to either side or the center of a pencil layout line.

And the most pleasureable accessory for a rotary tool (i.e. Dremel) is a good pair of sound-deadening headphones!

- Norm

badger5964

My Feedback: (6)

I really like the Zona saw and miter box. Much stiffer and stronger than the X-acto you see everywhere. After using and bending several X-acto saws I bought a Zona. My only regret is I bought several X-acto saws before the Zona. Almost all straight cross cuts on balsa bigger than 3/16" are done with the Zona.

I like single edge razor blades for straight cut better than the #11. The razor is thinner, sharper and cheaper. I mount mine in a good quality wall paper cutter, but more often than not I just grab the bare blade. Curve cuts? can't beat the #11.

But my favorite tool for cutting and fitting stick structures is the Fourmost Miter Sander. I cut a little oversize then sand to exact fit. The tight joint is much stronger. I hesitated at the $22, but never had a second thought after I used it.

Another thing you will probably need is a razor plane. Master Airscrew makes about the only razor plane left. It is good, however search ebay or rcu marketplace for a used Wil-Kro or Wilkro razor plane. A great tool no longer in production. ebay nearly always has one up for auction.

My "pearls" are the Zona saws, the Fourmost miter sander and the Wil-Kro razor plane.

I do not scratch build so power tools I do not use or need. My Dremel outfitted with a saw blade serves to cut the occasional piece of plywood the Zona can not handle.

Here some links:

[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG876&P=0[/link]
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLK08&P=ML[/link]

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

All of the above but have never tried the Zona saw, maybe next trip to the big hobby shop??

Jimmbbo

Good choices!

I also use the X-acto chiseling blade, #17... (also available in larger size #18)

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKX70&P=7

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKY33&P=M

Jimmbbo

You betcha! Once you start working with plywood, fiberglass and harder materials, power tools are not a luxury Dremel is mandatory - sort of the #11 blade of power tools.

Cheers!

Jim

scorpionsix

Thank you for the great suggestions! This time around having the right tools and patience, will hopefully make all the difference. That and the fact that I bought a trainer instead of a "Super Sportster 40" as my begginner plane. Young, dumb, and wanting the fanciest plane turned out to be a big mistake. The plane however now hangs in the garage as an eternial reminder to start small and take your time.

Thank you again for your suggestions!

dmcmike

My Feedback: (14)

Just recently got a 4"Belt, 6" disc benchtop sander. this thing is great for squaring up the ends of balsa, spruce, etc. etc. Let's you trim things super accurate, and square. beyond that, an X-Acto, some single-edge razor blades, a zona saw, and bunches of sanding blocks in various grits.