Bad Driver

Hi,

Firstly I'd like to thank all you guys that replied to my 'Bipe Trainer Advice' post in the Scratchbuilding forum a while back.

I've decided to to take the advice given and get myself a Sig Hog Bipe as my first two-winger but I have a coupla questions

1] Canopy - While i was searching thro the archives I noticed somebody mentioned that they had fitted a canopy to their Sig Pig, anybody know what type will fit with minimal modifications ? I'm not going to fit the head-rest plastic (yuck IMHO).

2] Cowl - I'm contemplating a Fibreglass Specialties cowl to improve the cosmetics but will this also allow me to mount the engine horizontally ?

3] Engine - I have an OS 70 II FS and am hoping this'll be o.k. as I can't afford anything larger. Considering the engine size is there any way to lighten the plane ?

Any advice will be much appreciated. Thanks !

Steve

lownslo

Hello to you... across the big pond. I have a site for you to look at. In the index they have a listing for Hog Bipes. There are a LOT of pictures of various planes and mods.
http://zeus.rcwizard.com/fubar_hill/
Hope this will help you...... lownslo

FlyingPilgrim

My Feedback: (26)

One of the guys in our club has one with a Saito .91 in it, it flies great, just the right amount of power. Your .70 might be on the small side depending on what type of aerobatics you want to do.

MikeS

My Feedback: (37)

There was a very long thread on Hog Bipe mods on this very forum just a few weeks ago. A search will pull it up for you.
Good luck,

scott hayden

As mentioned in other posts, the Fubar site is wonderful. I have just completed building my hog (see links below for pictures). It is a quick and easy plane to construct. I enjoyed every step. I have not flown this one yet but I have flown others and they fly great!!!








My hog bipe has been modified. I have basically done all the modifications suggested at the fubar site except moving the postion of my landing gear. In addition I modified my cabane struts to give them a more scale appearance. I also lowered the floor a 1/2 at the fire wall to allow me to install my fuel tank at a better position for my inverted engine installation. . It is powered with an inverted magnum 91 4 stroke.

I do not know of a canopy but I am sure someone does.

I used a fiberglass RV4 cowl for mine.

My brother has a Hog with a 61 magnum and it flew fine. It did not have unlimited vertical performance but could still perform beautiful hammerhead turns, knife edge, snap rolls, horizontal rolls, spins etc... To fly it at scale speeds he still had to throttle it back.


Scott

Bad Driver

Hi Guys,

Thanks. I've been trying to get at the Fubar Hill site for weeks but the links in the archives are/were dead-ends. Thanks to lownslo I've now accessed Eric Klers excellent pictoral site.

Scott, I already have your bird in my personal Hog gallery but the other images are cool !

I've decided to stick with the OS 70 as I can't afford a new 91 4stroke. I've also just ordered the Fibreglass Specialities cowl.

All that remains is trying to find a suitable canopy - if possible.

I'll let y'all know what happens as & when.

Steve

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi...

Found a hog - bipe under the tree a couple of days ago and decided to start building. I'm fairly new to the hobby and have built a couple of kits and a couple of arfs. Anyway, I noticed that it calls for 6-32 hardware for the landing gear. Has anyone used nylon bolts like 1/4-20 or smaller instead of the steel bolts? This will be my first bipe and even now my landings ain't pretty. Also saw some notes on the c.g. and moving it forward to avoid noseovers. I fly at a grass field so I can see that happening. Any thoughts on that? Guess the distance to move the lg depends on the weight of the plane, too. I'l be using an OS 61FX. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance....

Ed

lownslo

Hello Ed, I have used nylon 1/4"-20 nylon bolts with good success..... on some planes. I think they are great if you can get the pattern correct and especially the weight of the plane vs. the number of bolts. Examples: I have a Midwest Starduster, (like a 4*), and it weighs 5.5 lbs. I have three 1/4" bolts in a trianglar pattern the the single bolt to the front. I have never lost the gear "needlessly". On the other hand... I have a GP Spacewalker with aluminum gear on the chin block and have the SAME pattern and number of bolts. (I took the factory gear off the wing). This plane weighs 9.5 lbs. I am going to either change the pattern, (add a bolt and make it a rectangular pattern), OR, put in a steel bolt in the front hole of the triangle. This plane has lost the gear 2 or 3 times when it wasn't that hard of a landing. I will still use break-away LG, but I am finding you do have to make minor repairs to covering on some break-aways. I sustained the most damage on my Spacewalker last fall. It tore a chunk of wood out of the center wing section, poked some holes in the bottom stab, flipped UP and actully broke the lowest stringer and damaged the covering in that area too. I would rather fix that than tear out the LG block and part of the fuse. If I would have "GUESSED" better, and took the plane's weight into consideration, my break-aways probably would not have happened. I have had some come off with absolutely no damage. It is all luck when it comes off.
As far as grass fields, I put on the biggest wheels I can without it looking goofy.
Just a word here about tip overs. I have mounted my gear forward of the "accepted placement" on 3 planes now, with NO problems of ground handling or tip overs. I still use up elevator... to hold the tail down.... but it is a LOT less touchy. I know some guys will freak out knowing how much further forward. . On the average.... my axles are about 1" forward of the leading edge, instead of even with it. I know there are some that won't belive I have no problems with this set-up, but it truly works great for me.
PS. I never have had a problem with the tail not coming up either. I have attached a profile shot of my Starduster. This is the factory supplied gear that is actually supposed to have a "swept back" look. I turned it around..... notice the axle placement. I have flown this plane all summer with no take off or landing problems due to the gear. (maybe my thumbs though) ... lownslo

Bad Driver

Hi Ed,

You lucky man ! I've rang round almost every major R/C shop in England recently and cannot find a Hog Bipe in stock Pity Tower Hobbies won't ship large parcels to the U.K. as even when I do find a Pig it could cost me up to £130 (approx $200 !!!).

From what I have read I believe Lownslo is quite right about fitting as large as possible wheels and moving the landing gear forward to avoid tip-overs and improve ground handling on grass.

Moving the C of G forward will affect the flight characteristics making the plane more docile/stable. Slowly moving it rearwards, flight-by-flight, after you are use to flying the bipe will increase it's manoeuverability to the point where it becomes unstable. Or so I've read

Have fun and let us know how you get on. Hopefully I'll be following closely behind in the building of the Sig Pig.

Steve

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi guys and thanks for responding.

Bob...

Thanks for the tip on the nylon bolts. I think I'l do that cuz my landings are anything but gentle. Also, this is my first bipe and don't want to treat it too rough. I think the 3", maybe 3 1/4" tires should be ok. It's a grass field and not too smooth since it aparentyly hasn't been rolled in a while. Sounds like a good idea to move the lg forward to avoid the noseovers. I'm anything but a crazy flier so don't get concerned about all the aerobatics that I may miss out on with a smaller engine. The main thing for me is that it will be fairly predictable on landing and takeoff. I may not be but it should be<g>.

Steve...

Sorry to hear you can't locate a hog-bipe out your way. They do sound kind of expensive. I was out your way years ago at an Air Force base, I believe Mildenhall. If I'm not mistaken, about 70 or so miles out of London. Didn't spend enough time in London to really see a lot but sure was beautiful. Thanks for the comments, take care, and good luck getting the plane. I've begun to build but I'm slow and deliberate and at that rate I hope to have it done by this Spring.

Ed

Nuker

Mine has extra power with the Saito .91, the .70 should be ok just watch not to tip stall on takeoff.

This pic is a takeoff at about 1/2 throttle. (there is a 6 oz smoke tank in there as well)

I followed most mods on Fubar except moving the landing gear and I kept the regular metal bolts with no issues. I also rounded the tail a bit. I can't think of where you could lighten the hog further.

All in all it's a hard plane to beat and real easy to fly.

Bob aka Nuker

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Bob...

Thanks for the tips. I bet the smoke really makes your hog-bipe stand out. Looks like alot of guys are using the 91 fs but will try it with the .61fx first and if I need more engine, I'll pull the Saito 91 out of the 4*60. Curious as to where you mounted the smoke tank? I just finished epoxing in the cabane mounts and will epoxy the firewall and F-3(I think) today. So, don't really have a good perspective of the space available. I also thought of going with a pull pull rudder just to try it out. Haven't done that before. Talk to you soon...

Ed

Nuker

Hi Ed,

I installed a pull pull system for the same reason . I used Hitec 545 servos on the elevator and rudder but regular 425' everywhere else. I used the standard dubro system for the smoke so with the gas tank on the top tray behind the firewall, I stuck the smoke tank in the bottom. I had no issues with balance.

I'm sure the 61fx will have ample power though I'm not sure if it will preheat the oil enough for the smoke. The smoke system I installed costs about $30. Details are at This location

To be honest I got the .91 for the sound

Best of luck and as I said, you will love this plane!!

If you have any probs, just pm me and I'll fill in if I can.

Bob

techsarge

My Feedback: (1)

Hi, Bob...

I guess the pull pull rudder system worked fine. I looked at the plans and can see the space for a smoke system. If I go with the Saito in the future, I may give that a try. Just finished attaching the second side of the fuse so should be able to drop the other formers in later today. The fuse appears to be square with the firewall and F3, but Guess I'll know for sure after the remaining formers are in place. On the other kits I've built, the instructions call for sliding all the formers in place and then squaring everything over the plans. So, never did it this way before. Anyway, Happy New Year and will keep in touch...

Ed

Bad Driver

Hi,

Well it appears there is not a Hog Bipe for sale anywhere in the U.K. until Feb ! ...some of the retailers say that kit building is dead over here !

Ah well... they say patience is a vertue

As I don't have the kit in front of me what I would really like to know, if any of you hog owners could help, is the approximate dimensions you would advise for a canopy. The width and front/back depth of the cockpit cut-out would be real useful. I'm looking at the Great Planes range from Tower.

Many, many thanks !

A rather frustrated,

Steve

Dennis DiBona

Steve
YOu might be interested in what one of our members did, He inverted his engine and closed in the top and front of the engine compatment w balsa. So has the look of a cowled in engine. Slightly rounded / filled in the sides also. If you look up the thread on 4* modificattions it shows you how they did it to a 4* which is about the same as far as the cheeks and engine compartment go.
(Duh Dennis I guess that is a cowled in engine) Ok ok so is not in fiberglass.
I am going to recover my Hog Bipe with fabric and paint this winter and I think ill make this modification. I don't think the 70 will be enough power, you will be dissappointed if you go with that. I have a 91surpass in mine.
The DiBo

Bad Driver

Hi to The Dibo,

Thanks for that. I've already ordered the f/g cowl from F/G Specialities and it should have touched down here in the U.K. yesterday with my friend who was over in MD for Xmas ($30 shipping across The Pond was too much).

Yeah, I keep searching thro the archives and more and more I too feel that I'd be better investing in a 91 FS. But the only contender as far as my bank manager is concerned is the ASP (approx $190 for reference).

I'm just about to place an order with Tower for other bits & pieces and I just needed to know the Hog bipe fuse size (width & cockpit dims). The GP canopies are only about 10bucks so it's worth trying as I really don't like that plastic headrest thang.

Cheers !

Bad Driver

Hello again,

I just realised that if I'm already ordering from Tower I could go for a Thunder Tiger 91 4stroke rather than the ASP.

Anybody have any comments re. this combination, TT91 FS + Hog bipe ? Engine weight ?

TIA

Steve

Nuker

Hi,

I use a Saito .91 in mine and it has ample power

I just measured the cockpit floor

Length is 4 3/4 inches, width is 4 inches. (the back turtle deck extends over the back of the cockpit by roughly 1/2 inch. The measurements here are the base of the cockpit floor between the dash and the back end. Fitting to the back turtledeck might be a challenge.

I hope this helps

One other thing, this is a typical sig construction so most of the fuses are a similar design. Would it be worth your while to check out any .60 size sig kit that has a cockpit? The fibreglass cowl you ordered fits the hog and the 4*60 the same way, just fyi. Can't figure out why you want to cover in the cockpit with a canopy though; ah well to each his own.

Bob

Dennis DiBona

Steve
Are you going to just stick a canopy on the fuse or are you going to build a turtle deck behind it in place of the plastic one? I can't imagine how it would look without some kind of head rest /turtle deck area.

The DiBo

Bad Driver

Hi Bob & Dennis,

Very many thanks for the dimensions and feedback.

Yup, more-or-less, just stick a canopy over the cockpit. The general idea was for an RV-4-esque look...



...but I can't find anything like that and you guys have got me thinking. Sorry, but that plastic headrest thing just looks so 'stuck on' to me. How about a wire frame with head-rest pad, sorta like on the back of a low-rider (motorcycle)

Anyway must order the TT 91 before Tower sell-out

I'll let you know what happens next month once everything arrives.

Thansk again & all the best !

Steve

Dennis DiBona

Hey
if you want to get a better look, try getting a canopy and shape the formers to its opening in the back. So you wind up with a Ultimate looking cockpit. Or adding formers over the Original turtle Deck. Sorta like making the plastic shape bigger only out of stringers and sheeting. I know what you mean, I am not really happy about that plastic junk look either. I will adress this when I redo mine by painting the whole thing in, I will fillet the joint line in with micro balloons so it actually will dissapear and look like all one.

But I am sure whatever you decide it will look neat.
The DiBo

Nuker

I ended up sheeting mine with 1/16th because I didn't want to (or want to try) to cover the plastic/apc. Then I covered the sheeting with matching monocote. Easier than painting

What about a 4 star 60 canopy if you really want one? Probably need some mods but the overall dimensions should match

Bob

Bad Driver

Hi Guys,

Well, I got a GP canopy for a Sportster 40 and I'll just have to see if I can make it fit once I get my Hog Bipe (none available in the UK 'til February :disappoin

I also now have a Thunder Tiger 91 FS to power the bipe and was just wondering if anyone out there that has this combination had to add any weight to get the plane to balance o.k. The F/G Specialities cowl will probably limit and fore/aft movement of the engine.

Thanks !

Dennis DiBona

I have a 91 Surpass in mine and balances perfect. I would think they are about the same weight. I placed my battery under the fuel tank and most of the radio gear as far forward as I could.
Take a few pictures when your done. I would like to see it.
The DiBo :sunsmiley