SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
#27
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
three pics on this link
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...memberId=24522
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...memberId=24522
#28
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
I am interested in an SS Bipe kit as well. Email [email protected] . I currently have an SSEP. Years ago I had a 90/120 size that was flown only twice before it was sold.
Thanks
Thanks
#30
RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
About 15 years ago I built a SS Bipe and loved it. I bashed it into a Super Pitts, squared off wing tips,tail surfaces and shortened the wings a few inches. The roll rate was awesome and it flew like it was on rails. I unfortnately lost the plane due to engine failure on take-off after a hundred flights or so, the dreaded tip stall at 15 ft and re-kitted it in the grass[]
Anthony
Anthony
#31
RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
YAAAHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!
I was looking at the SS 60 when i quit flying my trainer about 16 yrs ago. I wanted it to be my second plane. I always liked the way it looked and people always had good words about it. Well i kept thinking about flying again and now i'm refurbishing my trainer to start flying now that i have the time and money. I looked up the SS 60 to start building it when i was flying my trainer. I was saddened to find it was no longer available. I searched and found one being sold on ebay but it went for $170. My max bid was $120. I looked around and found some alternate planes, 4 star 60 and Venture 60 seemed like good replacements, with the V60 in the lead. But a couple days ago i was brousing ebay and found another SS 60 up for bid. Yahoooo. I just checked my bidding after being gone all weekend and it was mine. $71+$20 shipping. So as soon as i start flying i'll start building and will be in the SS club.
skeeter.
I was looking at the SS 60 when i quit flying my trainer about 16 yrs ago. I wanted it to be my second plane. I always liked the way it looked and people always had good words about it. Well i kept thinking about flying again and now i'm refurbishing my trainer to start flying now that i have the time and money. I looked up the SS 60 to start building it when i was flying my trainer. I was saddened to find it was no longer available. I searched and found one being sold on ebay but it went for $170. My max bid was $120. I looked around and found some alternate planes, 4 star 60 and Venture 60 seemed like good replacements, with the V60 in the lead. But a couple days ago i was brousing ebay and found another SS 60 up for bid. Yahoooo. I just checked my bidding after being gone all weekend and it was mine. $71+$20 shipping. So as soon as i start flying i'll start building and will be in the SS club.
skeeter.
#32
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
CG for the Super Sportster Bipe...
Hi All, Does anyone have a good position for the CG? I downloaded a revised version of the build manual from the Great Planes site, but it is a bit confusing and appears to be for the low wing version and not the Bipe. Any help would be great!
Thanks,
Franny
Hi All, Does anyone have a good position for the CG? I downloaded a revised version of the build manual from the Great Planes site, but it is a bit confusing and appears to be for the low wing version and not the Bipe. Any help would be great!
Thanks,
Franny
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Franny,
Not sure how to answer that one, I scratched my head on that one too and just thought I would give it a best guess and then to find out how far I was off would go fly straight and level and then roll to inverted, if no elevator correction required would figure I did it right.
Not sure how to answer that one, I scratched my head on that one too and just thought I would give it a best guess and then to find out how far I was off would go fly straight and level and then roll to inverted, if no elevator correction required would figure I did it right.
#34
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Got the plans right here....The CG is 1/4" forward of the front of the spar or aprox. 2'' back from the leading edge of the bottom wing
#35
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hey Guys,
Just thought I would add a few pics of my SS 90/120. It will be looking at it maiden flight on Sunday. Hope everything goes well.
Someone was mentioning CG points and all. I built this one as tri gear for some reason. But it sure seems like I need a lot of weight in the nose for this thing. I'm at about 11lbs right now. Anyone run inot the same thing? [email protected]
JR6102, JR HI-torque servos, Supertiger 90.
Mike
Just thought I would add a few pics of my SS 90/120. It will be looking at it maiden flight on Sunday. Hope everything goes well.
Someone was mentioning CG points and all. I built this one as tri gear for some reason. But it sure seems like I need a lot of weight in the nose for this thing. I'm at about 11lbs right now. Anyone run inot the same thing? [email protected]
JR6102, JR HI-torque servos, Supertiger 90.
Mike
#38
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hey jrbmoto: That really is beautiful! really nice!
Here are a few photos of my electrified version in the air!
Thanks,
Franny
Here are a few photos of my electrified version in the air!
Thanks,
Franny
#39
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hey franny I'd love to hear what electric gear you put in your plane. I'm thinking about using electric one that size don't know how to go about deciding what to use. I'm not into lipoly yet but guess that is the way to go or can Nicad or Nickelmetal work okay on say a lightened Astro Hog or equivilent. I'm hoping to find a 60 size Super Sportster kit somewhere. Thanks for any help.
#40
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Just found this thread...built an SS40 in 1990, powered with OS 48 Surpass, not a barrel of fire but probably the bets all-round model I've ever owned. Like a previous poster, I have a NIB SS60 on the shelf, bought it from a modeller in N. Ireland via E Bay. I am sure it will be every bit as good as my dear old SS40 was.
Truly lovely models.
Truly lovely models.
#41
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hi CubFloater!
I used an AXI 2826-10 motor with a CC 40 Speed control, powered by a 3S 3300mAH Lipo. I want to up the battery to a 4S 4000mAH as it is a tad tail heavy and could use a bit more power. Mine also came out 1.5 pounds under the weight on the plans due to a bit of lightening I did in the wings and tail. It really is nice to fly in a big park and not bother anyone with the noise. Here is a link to my bulild thread over on WattFlyer: [link]http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6424[/link]
A .60 size would require a bit more power. You might want to look at the E-Flight 60 motor or the AXI 4130 and a 6S lipo. Poke around on the WattFlyer site and look at what has worked for the larger .60 size airplanes. Good luck on your E-conversion!
Franny
I used an AXI 2826-10 motor with a CC 40 Speed control, powered by a 3S 3300mAH Lipo. I want to up the battery to a 4S 4000mAH as it is a tad tail heavy and could use a bit more power. Mine also came out 1.5 pounds under the weight on the plans due to a bit of lightening I did in the wings and tail. It really is nice to fly in a big park and not bother anyone with the noise. Here is a link to my bulild thread over on WattFlyer: [link]http://www.wattflyer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6424[/link]
A .60 size would require a bit more power. You might want to look at the E-Flight 60 motor or the AXI 4130 and a 6S lipo. Poke around on the WattFlyer site and look at what has worked for the larger .60 size airplanes. Good luck on your E-conversion!
Franny
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
HI all,
I am currently working on a SS .40. I would consider myself more of a novice builder, and I was wondering if anyone had tried and true tips for lightening the airframe. I am almost done with the wings and I have already gone epoxy-heavy on the landing gear blocks, as this was the first thing to break on my SS .20 back in the day. I guess I don't have enough building experience to have experimented with different glue applications/amounts. I use thin CA for most joints/sheeting and then come back with thicker (Zap-a-Gap). I used a lot of epoxy on the landing blocks (probably way too much), and I am worried that I might use too much on this very rare kit. Unfortunately, this rare kit is serving as sort of a learning build, so I want to minimize mistakes. But I have a Sportster Bipe .40 on the way that I just bought off of ebay, and this won't be build until after the SS and a GP Mustang with retracts. Hopefully by then I'll have a hat full of building tricks.
Where can I save on weight? What is the minimum amount of glue I can use in different sections of the build? Keep in mind, that I'm patient and detail oriented, but I don't ever see myself using anything but CA glue!
I haven't posted in quite awhile (buying your first house will do that!) but thanks again for all the help on previous and future posts.
Jonathan
I am currently working on a SS .40. I would consider myself more of a novice builder, and I was wondering if anyone had tried and true tips for lightening the airframe. I am almost done with the wings and I have already gone epoxy-heavy on the landing gear blocks, as this was the first thing to break on my SS .20 back in the day. I guess I don't have enough building experience to have experimented with different glue applications/amounts. I use thin CA for most joints/sheeting and then come back with thicker (Zap-a-Gap). I used a lot of epoxy on the landing blocks (probably way too much), and I am worried that I might use too much on this very rare kit. Unfortunately, this rare kit is serving as sort of a learning build, so I want to minimize mistakes. But I have a Sportster Bipe .40 on the way that I just bought off of ebay, and this won't be build until after the SS and a GP Mustang with retracts. Hopefully by then I'll have a hat full of building tricks.
Where can I save on weight? What is the minimum amount of glue I can use in different sections of the build? Keep in mind, that I'm patient and detail oriented, but I don't ever see myself using anything but CA glue!
I haven't posted in quite awhile (buying your first house will do that!) but thanks again for all the help on previous and future posts.
Jonathan
#43
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hi Rook,
I don't know about the SS40, but with the Bipe you might want to look into modifying the bottom wing a bit... The plans call to glass the center but offer very little bracing beyond that. I added ply dihedral braces to allow me to sleep at night and didn't glass the joint. (If you decide not to add the additional bracing then you will have to glass the joint of the wing will fail!) That will save a bit. I also bored 1" holes in the tail planes. As far as glues go, I use the CA medium for most everything except dihedral braces and engine mounts where I use 20 Min Epoxy. The thin CA is good for strengthening threads cut for the nylon bolts or some cross grain areas, but it is too thin for a good butt joint. For trouble areas like landing gears, try devising additional bracing to spread the force out to bulkheads and fuse sides instead of just poring a bunch of glue all over the area. There is a point of diminishing returns with glue globs. I had to think about balance a bit as mine flies with an electric power plant and that distributes the power plant weight back a bit. As a result, most glow to electric conversions come out tail heavy. So, I didn't remove much material forward of the CG. I'd rather have my nose weight in the form of structure instead of lead shot. Give it some thought as you build - the best (and cheapest) performance increase you can give your model is through a reduction in all up weight. They also make light wheels which look just like the older heavy ones. It is great you are trying out things on the SS before you start the Bipe. It is a fun model! Heaven knows why they discontinued it. It could be re-designed to build a little straighter and easier, but it is easier to build than the vintage Goldberg Shoestring Racer I'm working on now. Good luck with all of it and post some pictures as you go.
Thanks,
Franny
I don't know about the SS40, but with the Bipe you might want to look into modifying the bottom wing a bit... The plans call to glass the center but offer very little bracing beyond that. I added ply dihedral braces to allow me to sleep at night and didn't glass the joint. (If you decide not to add the additional bracing then you will have to glass the joint of the wing will fail!) That will save a bit. I also bored 1" holes in the tail planes. As far as glues go, I use the CA medium for most everything except dihedral braces and engine mounts where I use 20 Min Epoxy. The thin CA is good for strengthening threads cut for the nylon bolts or some cross grain areas, but it is too thin for a good butt joint. For trouble areas like landing gears, try devising additional bracing to spread the force out to bulkheads and fuse sides instead of just poring a bunch of glue all over the area. There is a point of diminishing returns with glue globs. I had to think about balance a bit as mine flies with an electric power plant and that distributes the power plant weight back a bit. As a result, most glow to electric conversions come out tail heavy. So, I didn't remove much material forward of the CG. I'd rather have my nose weight in the form of structure instead of lead shot. Give it some thought as you build - the best (and cheapest) performance increase you can give your model is through a reduction in all up weight. They also make light wheels which look just like the older heavy ones. It is great you are trying out things on the SS before you start the Bipe. It is a fun model! Heaven knows why they discontinued it. It could be re-designed to build a little straighter and easier, but it is easier to build than the vintage Goldberg Shoestring Racer I'm working on now. Good luck with all of it and post some pictures as you go.
Thanks,
Franny
#44
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Ckangaroo,
I have a Super Sportster 90/120 kit I was thinking about building this winter but it doesn't look like I am going to have the time. I was wondering what engine you used in yours. I'm a 4-stroke person myself and I was thinking about either a Saito 125 or a YS110. I would also consider a YS120 if I can find one at a good price. Let me know what you think.
Fly safe and have fun!!!
David
I have a Super Sportster 90/120 kit I was thinking about building this winter but it doesn't look like I am going to have the time. I was wondering what engine you used in yours. I'm a 4-stroke person myself and I was thinking about either a Saito 125 or a YS110. I would also consider a YS120 if I can find one at a good price. Let me know what you think.
Fly safe and have fun!!!
David
#45
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Hi all,
I just received my Sportster Bipe in the mail yesterday. I found one on ebay, and needless to say, I am very excited about building this one. I was going to post some pics of the inventory I did when it arrived, but we Mac users need to wait until we find a PC to post on RCU. Sure would be nice if they fixed that bug. It is just sooooo painful to work on a PC ever since I got my Mac
Some of the modifications I am considering building are duel aileron servos and fully sheeted wings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
J
I just received my Sportster Bipe in the mail yesterday. I found one on ebay, and needless to say, I am very excited about building this one. I was going to post some pics of the inventory I did when it arrived, but we Mac users need to wait until we find a PC to post on RCU. Sure would be nice if they fixed that bug. It is just sooooo painful to work on a PC ever since I got my Mac
Some of the modifications I am considering building are duel aileron servos and fully sheeted wings. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
J
#46
RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
My first low-wing plane was a SS-20 many years ago. Inverted O.S. FP.20 and she flew great.
Just picked up the electric SS on a whim.
Had to up power to a 11.1 3 cell Li-po but left the stock geared 550 in it.
Not sure how long the motor will last but it's a blast to fly now.
Just picked up the electric SS on a whim.
Had to up power to a 11.1 3 cell Li-po but left the stock geared 550 in it.
Not sure how long the motor will last but it's a blast to fly now.
#47
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
I posted here a few months ago that I have a blue box SS60 on the shelf here. Yesterday, I bought a nib Saito 100 twin from a local modeller. As the SS60 is a rather 'special' model to me, with such happy memories of my old SS40, I think it deserves a 'special' engine. has anyone tried or seen an SS60 with a twin-cylinder engine in it? I don't have the engine here yet, so can't offer it up to the plan to check sizes.
David Smith, Finland
David Smith, Finland
#48
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
Here is a picture of my Supersportster 60 that I bought at Eugene Toy and Hobby while I was home on leave. The kit has been out of production for a while so when the chance to get one new in the box came up I jumped on it!
#49
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RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
The sportster bipe is one of my favorite planes to fly. It's seen all kinds of conditions; real dissappointed that Great Planes discontinued them. I bought a Sportster 40 kit as soon as I heard they would be discontinued.
I power mine with a Saito .56 and a 12x6 prop. Tons of power and let's me fly in pretty much any condition. I got this used a number of years ago and as I said, this is the one I put in the car first as it's a real comfortable flier. (Covering isn't much to talk about but like I said, this puppy has been through it all)
Bob
I power mine with a Saito .56 and a 12x6 prop. Tons of power and let's me fly in pretty much any condition. I got this used a number of years ago and as I said, this is the one I put in the car first as it's a real comfortable flier. (Covering isn't much to talk about but like I said, this puppy has been through it all)
Bob
#50
Senior Member
RE: SUPER SPORTSTER 20/40/60/90/BIPE
I ended up eliminating the wing mounted landing gear in favor of a fuse mounted set up after only a few flights on my SS 40. IMHO, no matter how much glue you use or how much you reinforce that area, eventually, the slot will start to wiggle and get sloppy. Another reason I like the gear on the fuse is that when you take the wing off, the fuse sits in its wheels, making transportation to and from the field easier. Best of all, I think it looks better! As for lightening the airframe, If you compare the construction of a Sportster to a more recently designed model, you will see that there is a lot more wood here than needs to be. I cut huge holes in the fuse sides between the formers, and in the wing ribs. Just like Franny, I punched big holes in the empenage. I haven't weighed mine but I'm sure its at least a half a pound lighter than stock. And it really does makes a difference in flight performance. Heres a before and after shot.
-Johnny-
-Johnny-