4*60 LG fiberglass reinforcement
#1
4*60 LG fiberglass reinforcement
I've read that the landing gear of the 4*60 can be reinforced with fiberglass cloth. How is this done with epoxy? Where is the cloth placed? I have various types of fiberglass cloth (light, medium, heavy). Which type is suitable ? Thanks for the inputs..............
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4*60 LG fiberglass reinforcement
if you're talking about the landing gear plate, it's much better to epoxy another piece of plywood on top of the plate.. and have it extended right to the end of the FBR...
this will be the strongest method..
so if your gear yanks out the plate.. it will have to yank it out with the FBR from the fuselage..
-eugn
this will be the strongest method..
so if your gear yanks out the plate.. it will have to yank it out with the FBR from the fuselage..
-eugn
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4*60 LG fiberglass reinforcement
Hey rajul, we meet again! How do I get the sense you're not surprised?
Best way to add FG is wrap several layers of 1 to 2 Oz. fabric over and around the LGP, with each succeeding layer overlapping a little past the previous one. This way the seams are much easier to putty fill and sand to achieve hiding. It's similar to feather-edging, which is used a lot by painter and drywaller. Several lighter layers is preferable to a heavier one. Be sure to orient the fabric so that the weave crosses the fuselage at 45deg for max strength.
Don't use too much epoxy, which gets heavy and difficult to sand evenly. Plus it doesn't add more strength. The ideal epoxy amount to use to just enought to wet the cloth complete - with the FG weave still very much apparent. Balsa filler (or primer if you're gonna piant) and light sanding will make the weave disappear later.
You can FG the interior instead or in addition, but the strength gained there won't be as much as on the outside. Heavy tri-stock with plenty glue is preferable.
Just remember you are only trying to prevent a pot hole from eating your gear. Don't overbuild it to survive a direct hit by a Scud missile.
Best way to add FG is wrap several layers of 1 to 2 Oz. fabric over and around the LGP, with each succeeding layer overlapping a little past the previous one. This way the seams are much easier to putty fill and sand to achieve hiding. It's similar to feather-edging, which is used a lot by painter and drywaller. Several lighter layers is preferable to a heavier one. Be sure to orient the fabric so that the weave crosses the fuselage at 45deg for max strength.
Don't use too much epoxy, which gets heavy and difficult to sand evenly. Plus it doesn't add more strength. The ideal epoxy amount to use to just enought to wet the cloth complete - with the FG weave still very much apparent. Balsa filler (or primer if you're gonna piant) and light sanding will make the weave disappear later.
You can FG the interior instead or in addition, but the strength gained there won't be as much as on the outside. Heavy tri-stock with plenty glue is preferable.
Just remember you are only trying to prevent a pot hole from eating your gear. Don't overbuild it to survive a direct hit by a Scud missile.
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Darn! I need a new digital camera. This Canon Elura2 MC camcorder does a nice VGA resolution, but that's about it.
Anyway, I've had two similarly constructed planes break at the general area, so I felt the need to bash.
Anyway, I've had two similarly constructed planes break at the general area, so I felt the need to bash.
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This close-up doesn't quite show the "feather-edging", but that's kinda the point. There is one other layer underneath there that ends just inside of the visible edge.
Notice the FG doesn't shine at all. That's the right amount. Any more than this, you're adding dead weight.
Notice the FG doesn't shine at all. That's the right amount. Any more than this, you're adding dead weight.
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No, the FG was applied after the fuse has been glued together and is mostly there to help tie the factory lightened out plate back in position. I saw no need to wrap around the corners, as the added tri-stock already provide more than adequate reinforcement there.