88" Flying Quaker build
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Here's the fin and rudder.
Although it looks pretty complete, theres some work left to do on it.
Next step is to add 1/4x1/8 to both sides and then spend some time sanding... The idea is to sand off most of the added 1/4x1/8 front and aft and leave more in the middle, this is to create an aerodynamic shaped surface...And it'll look better too. (It will be same procedure to the horizontal stab)
(Planned to go fishing Saturday, but the forecast predicts storms so perhaps there will be more updates during the weekend...stay tuned )
Although it looks pretty complete, theres some work left to do on it.
Next step is to add 1/4x1/8 to both sides and then spend some time sanding... The idea is to sand off most of the added 1/4x1/8 front and aft and leave more in the middle, this is to create an aerodynamic shaped surface...And it'll look better too. (It will be same procedure to the horizontal stab)
(Planned to go fishing Saturday, but the forecast predicts storms so perhaps there will be more updates during the weekend...stay tuned )
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
My Internet connection been down during the weekend due to the storm and I haven't updated in a few days.
Here's som more pictures, please feel free to comment or ask questions! (Kinda lonely in here )
Completing the fin and rudder by adding strips of 1/4x1/8 top and bottom and sanding into airfoil shape.
Hinging with Robart pin hinges.
Here's som more pictures, please feel free to comment or ask questions! (Kinda lonely in here )
Completing the fin and rudder by adding strips of 1/4x1/8 top and bottom and sanding into airfoil shape.
Hinging with Robart pin hinges.
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Here's the cowling being made... I made a trace of the cowling on waxed paper, glued the paper cut out to a piece of plywood and cut it with my scroll saw.
The Plywood cowling is then left to soak in hot water for 15minutes before being bent to a curved shaped and prepared with pins.
Applied wood glue to the fuselage formers and to the plywood cowling and bent into place, secured with pins and these (what's their name?) 'clamps'??
The Plywood cowling is then left to soak in hot water for 15minutes before being bent to a curved shaped and prepared with pins.
Applied wood glue to the fuselage formers and to the plywood cowling and bent into place, secured with pins and these (what's their name?) 'clamps'??
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Here's the horizontal stabilizer + elevator being made.
This construction is pretty straight forward and the same technique as the fin and rudder applies.
Unfortunately my kit was short on the 1/4X1/8 doublers so I had to make my own from 2mm balsa... no big deal.
The Fin is recived in the center of the stabilizer so great care has to be taken to assure a good, tight fit. A tip is to insert a few scrap balsa pieces with the same dimension as the fin to guarantee the correct spacing.
A tedious task here was to shape triangular blocks to 'perfectly' fit the empty frame where to later put the elevator control horn... I'm happy with this fit, kinda looks like one solid piece of wood where it actually is four diffrent pieces.
This construction is pretty straight forward and the same technique as the fin and rudder applies.
Unfortunately my kit was short on the 1/4X1/8 doublers so I had to make my own from 2mm balsa... no big deal.
The Fin is recived in the center of the stabilizer so great care has to be taken to assure a good, tight fit. A tip is to insert a few scrap balsa pieces with the same dimension as the fin to guarantee the correct spacing.
A tedious task here was to shape triangular blocks to 'perfectly' fit the empty frame where to later put the elevator control horn... I'm happy with this fit, kinda looks like one solid piece of wood where it actually is four diffrent pieces.
#31
RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
ORIGINAL: Test005
My Internet connection been down during the weekend due to the storm and I haven't updated in a few days.
Here's som more pictures, please feel free to comment or ask questions! (Kinda lonely in here )
My Internet connection been down during the weekend due to the storm and I haven't updated in a few days.
Here's som more pictures, please feel free to comment or ask questions! (Kinda lonely in here )
Mark
#34
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Clamps = "Quick Clamps" (I believe that is the name)
I had to chuckle a bit when I saw the hinge points! Here you are. building this antique in the antique style. Using bent reed, fishing line, a billion pieces of balsa. Then you use the most modern hinging system.
You are doing great! Yes, we are all just watching in awe! [sm=thumbup.gif]
I had to chuckle a bit when I saw the hinge points! Here you are. building this antique in the antique style. Using bent reed, fishing line, a billion pieces of balsa. Then you use the most modern hinging system.
You are doing great! Yes, we are all just watching in awe! [sm=thumbup.gif]
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Thanks guys, It's fun to get some comments, questions and discussion as I take my time documenting the build as I go.
...And yes, all hardware is ofcourse pre-1940's (Oh yeah, I was also thinking of adding a stearable tailwheel. This is ofcourse not suitable for a model like this, but would make it easier to handle on the field. At 88" it's large to carry around)
...And yes, all hardware is ofcourse pre-1940's (Oh yeah, I was also thinking of adding a stearable tailwheel. This is ofcourse not suitable for a model like this, but would make it easier to handle on the field. At 88" it's large to carry around)
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Today we got the first snow here in south west Finland.
This Quaker was supposed to be my looong winter project, but everything is going forward much faster then anticipated so I might just have to start looking for something more to build
(Been a bit unmotivated lately but when I got my hands on this kit I have been building lots, the motivation kinda backfired on me and I've been sawing, sanding and gluing night and day )
This Quaker was supposed to be my looong winter project, but everything is going forward much faster then anticipated so I might just have to start looking for something more to build
(Been a bit unmotivated lately but when I got my hands on this kit I have been building lots, the motivation kinda backfired on me and I've been sawing, sanding and gluing night and day )
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Hi Test005,
I'm enjoying your building thread. I have just gotten a good start on a 109" Dalliare Sportster that I purchase from Penn Valley Hobbies. It will be RC assist and powered by a Super Cyclone ignition engine. A friend of mine has a Senior Playboy powered by a Brown Junior ignition engine. It is a blast to fly. It climbs like the proverbial angel and once the engine quits it puts many gliders to shame. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished Quaker.
Best regards,
Bill
I'm enjoying your building thread. I have just gotten a good start on a 109" Dalliare Sportster that I purchase from Penn Valley Hobbies. It will be RC assist and powered by a Super Cyclone ignition engine. A friend of mine has a Senior Playboy powered by a Brown Junior ignition engine. It is a blast to fly. It climbs like the proverbial angel and once the engine quits it puts many gliders to shame. I'm looking forward to seeing your finished Quaker.
Best regards,
Bill
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Here's another update, this time it's wing building time.
The Trailing edge is notched to recive the wing ribs. The reed is soaked and dried to shape and the reed edges tapered to blend with the LE & TE and attached with kevlar thread and wood glue.
In one pic you can see the wing ready for the ribs and in the other the ribs are glued in place.
The wing is simple and fast to build once you get your head around the curved and angled wing tips...
I framed the ribs to the trailing edge and bottom spars first. Next step is to attach the leading edge and at the same time make sure the reed tip is curved nice and smooth.
I have made a 27mm balsablock at the tip of the wing for the reed to rest on. This will insure that the reed and the top spar will meet at the correct hight.
You can also see that the bottom spars are cut at an angle so when I add another piece of bottom spar under them, there will be a natural angle to go up and meet the reed wing tip.
(One complaint: The top spars are not long enough so I have to cut and 'scarf join' them to length... Ok, maybe stupid to complain, but with the amount of cutting and shaping you have to do with these kits, they could at least provide stock of sufficient lenght! )
The Trailing edge is notched to recive the wing ribs. The reed is soaked and dried to shape and the reed edges tapered to blend with the LE & TE and attached with kevlar thread and wood glue.
In one pic you can see the wing ready for the ribs and in the other the ribs are glued in place.
The wing is simple and fast to build once you get your head around the curved and angled wing tips...
I framed the ribs to the trailing edge and bottom spars first. Next step is to attach the leading edge and at the same time make sure the reed tip is curved nice and smooth.
I have made a 27mm balsablock at the tip of the wing for the reed to rest on. This will insure that the reed and the top spar will meet at the correct hight.
You can also see that the bottom spars are cut at an angle so when I add another piece of bottom spar under them, there will be a natural angle to go up and meet the reed wing tip.
(One complaint: The top spars are not long enough so I have to cut and 'scarf join' them to length... Ok, maybe stupid to complain, but with the amount of cutting and shaping you have to do with these kits, they could at least provide stock of sufficient lenght! )
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Building wing part #2
Aligned reed wing tip and glued leading edge in place.
Shaped top spar tips to recive reed off center. This is because the wing tip will be sanded to a slightly sloping tip towards the end on the top side. Having some extra wood on the upper side of the top spar makes the slope more noticable because I can sand off more material, making a thinner wing tip.
Pic#3 is the complete wing, note the angled bottom spars, this will give the wing a nice look.
Only thing left to do is to let the glue dry and then finish the wing tip with a couple of custom shaped wing ribs and som bracing.... Yeah, and the webbing between top & bottom spar need to be done too.
Close up picture show some glue joints.
I try to be careful with the glue and not splash it around since the covering will be semi transparent.
I apply wood glue with a small brush and after joining the pieces I run a thin bamboo stick down the corners, scooping up excess glue that seeps from the joint.
---------------
Aligned reed wing tip and glued leading edge in place.
Shaped top spar tips to recive reed off center. This is because the wing tip will be sanded to a slightly sloping tip towards the end on the top side. Having some extra wood on the upper side of the top spar makes the slope more noticable because I can sand off more material, making a thinner wing tip.
Pic#3 is the complete wing, note the angled bottom spars, this will give the wing a nice look.
Only thing left to do is to let the glue dry and then finish the wing tip with a couple of custom shaped wing ribs and som bracing.... Yeah, and the webbing between top & bottom spar need to be done too.
Close up picture show some glue joints.
I try to be careful with the glue and not splash it around since the covering will be semi transparent.
I apply wood glue with a small brush and after joining the pieces I run a thin bamboo stick down the corners, scooping up excess glue that seeps from the joint.
---------------
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
i tried to read the whole series about the Quaker, and I hope I didn't miss this, but it seemed to me that the spars on the wing should not be balsa. I found out the hard way: My kit had balsa spars, and although hard balsa, not strong enough: a broken spar the first flight, and a lawn dart for fuse. I scratch built a whole new plane, and used straight grained yellow pine as the spar material.
It was not much heavier (about 1 ounce on each wing), and it has never broken, after almost 150 flights. Hope this helps. Roger Q.
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Thanks for the heads up Roger.
Was your kit a Ben Buckle kit?
This BB 88" uses balsa 3/8 square for main spar with 1/16 balsa webbing. The second wing spar is 3/16x3/8.
I've already built both wings, so there's not much I can do if the spars provided are not strong enough.
I will just have to see what happens in the air
Was your kit a Ben Buckle kit?
This BB 88" uses balsa 3/8 square for main spar with 1/16 balsa webbing. The second wing spar is 3/16x3/8.
I've already built both wings, so there's not much I can do if the spars provided are not strong enough.
I will just have to see what happens in the air
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Small update:
All wood parts complete except some strengthening of the wing tips and joining the two wing panels.
Hinges done and everything sanded to 180grit and prepped with balsaloc.
I will finish the wing later, right now I wanted to move on to my favourite part of building, the covering.
I've never worked with Solartex before so this was a new experience. I finfd it easy to work with and in some applications seem to put even Ultracote to shame .
...In fact, I think this is my new covering material, seem to have lots of advantages and is very user friendly at the same time! (Strong, textured surfaced for good looks, goes easy around curves with the help of a heat gun, nice transparent effect)
....Anyways, not much to write, horizontal stabilizer is covered and will be followed by elevator surface and then the fin/rudder.
The idea I have is to finish the plane in this cream colour and trim it off with dark green in the classic quaker scheme...
All wood parts complete except some strengthening of the wing tips and joining the two wing panels.
Hinges done and everything sanded to 180grit and prepped with balsaloc.
I will finish the wing later, right now I wanted to move on to my favourite part of building, the covering.
I've never worked with Solartex before so this was a new experience. I finfd it easy to work with and in some applications seem to put even Ultracote to shame .
...In fact, I think this is my new covering material, seem to have lots of advantages and is very user friendly at the same time! (Strong, textured surfaced for good looks, goes easy around curves with the help of a heat gun, nice transparent effect)
....Anyways, not much to write, horizontal stabilizer is covered and will be followed by elevator surface and then the fin/rudder.
The idea I have is to finish the plane in this cream colour and trim it off with dark green in the classic quaker scheme...
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Thanks T.
This Solartex is nice, it's not shiny and has a textured surface so it makes for a more "realistic" non glaring finish.
I suppose a warbird, say a Spit or Messerschmit would look 10 times better in Solartex than in shiny Monocote?!?
After covering I plan to spray some dull laquer ontop of everything. This is not needed from a fuelproof point of view, but should make it easier to clean.
This Solartex is nice, it's not shiny and has a textured surface so it makes for a more "realistic" non glaring finish.
I suppose a warbird, say a Spit or Messerschmit would look 10 times better in Solartex than in shiny Monocote?!?
After covering I plan to spray some dull laquer ontop of everything. This is not needed from a fuelproof point of view, but should make it easier to clean.
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
So, started covering the fuselage.
This box shape is pretty straight forward and I use iron only... The curved contours of the stabilizer and elevator was completely covered using heatgun and a pair of pliers to pull the covering around the corners.
I painted the engine bay with some white paint, this area will also be clearcoated but I think white will look better than bare wood.
The semi transparent effect of the Solartex is quite amazing, I like this stuff.
The forward fuselage was covered with cutouts I made with a paper template, well the pictures speak for themselves... Thanks for watching!
-/T5/
ps. The dark green in contrast to the creme colour is the ****!
This box shape is pretty straight forward and I use iron only... The curved contours of the stabilizer and elevator was completely covered using heatgun and a pair of pliers to pull the covering around the corners.
I painted the engine bay with some white paint, this area will also be clearcoated but I think white will look better than bare wood.
The semi transparent effect of the Solartex is quite amazing, I like this stuff.
The forward fuselage was covered with cutouts I made with a paper template, well the pictures speak for themselves... Thanks for watching!
-/T5/
ps. The dark green in contrast to the creme colour is the ****!
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Wow! I haven't been on the forum in awhile. I bet you're already flying this plane by now Nice going! Are you going to keep the window areas covered or add the clear window material?
Scott
Scott
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Hi Scott
Not flying just yet, I have had lots to do lately around the house so no more updates after above pictures.
The windows will of course be open with 'glass', this is just how I covered it and then I cut the openings out and trim the Solartex down to get it nice and tight around the window frame.
I am really pleased with the colours, the dark green is a great match for old school looks in my opinion.
-T5-
Not flying just yet, I have had lots to do lately around the house so no more updates after above pictures.
The windows will of course be open with 'glass', this is just how I covered it and then I cut the openings out and trim the Solartex down to get it nice and tight around the window frame.
I am really pleased with the colours, the dark green is a great match for old school looks in my opinion.
-T5-
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RE: 88" Flying Quaker build
Hi guys.
I finished up the Giant Quaker today... Been a bit lazy updating this build thread but I'd like to show the end result.
Maiden will be this Saturday, hope to shoot some video to upload... (*Disclaimer*: Haven't tried to fit this thing in my small car yet)
The plane is finished with balsaloc, Solartex and coated with Testor dull coat, flat lacquer overcoat.... Hope you like it?
----------------------------
Giant Quaker 88"
OS .52fs - Zinger 12x6 classic wood prop
Futaba S3001 servos
Futaba F147r reciver
6oz Dubro tank
...And huge wheels
---------------------------
I finished up the Giant Quaker today... Been a bit lazy updating this build thread but I'd like to show the end result.
Maiden will be this Saturday, hope to shoot some video to upload... (*Disclaimer*: Haven't tried to fit this thing in my small car yet)
The plane is finished with balsaloc, Solartex and coated with Testor dull coat, flat lacquer overcoat.... Hope you like it?
----------------------------
Giant Quaker 88"
OS .52fs - Zinger 12x6 classic wood prop
Futaba S3001 servos
Futaba F147r reciver
6oz Dubro tank
...And huge wheels
---------------------------