big_poppa49

ok thanks!

Bob Howard

My Feedback: (2)

I managed to copy the windshield today. My Smith has been setting in my basement for the the last 25 years and when I went to copy the windshield it was very brittle. I took it off from the plane and laid it on a piece of paper and traced it out. Time to recover mine and get it into the air after all of this time.

big_poppa49

I got some pictures of my progress so far. I went to fuel it up and I could not get the fuel to empty. Its a 3-Line tank and come to find out I took the tank out and the brass tube for the fuel dot didnt have no clunk. Therefore it would fuel up, but not empty past the tubing. What do you guys think of this? Do you think 2 clunks inside the tank is fine? I saw a video on youtube where a guy used two clunks.

Anyways, I will try and start the motor tomorrow. Whats basic starting point for this motor, 2 turns out from closed?

Powerplant: OS Max FX 46



Cockpit trim



Inside: note: I still got to put a cover door to cover where the battery is located, just between the LG mounts.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

It's nice to see you bringing this one back to life

I just flew mine yesterday- hard to believe its 7 seasons old already!

taildragger1589

I've been using 2 clunks inside mine for years with no trouble.
That way I have a dedicated fill/empty fuel line.
Makes it easier with a full cowl.

Whoever retired the ship probably pulled the clunk line off, makes a real mess inside the tank if you leave it.

Nick

RICKSTUBBZ

Big_49,


realizing this is a few days late.....

On my three line set-up, I ran only one clunk, One tube to the top bubble for vent and pressure as normal and the third line curved around to the bottom front of the tank (much like the vent pressure line).
When I went to defuel, all I needed to do was tilt the airplane forward a bit. I just tilted it up on the spinner to get the last drops out of the tank.

big_poppa49

I noticed something about my plane. You guys tell me what you think about this if its ok or not.

Whoever built this plane did not cover the bottom of the plane around the landing gear. Do you guys think I need to cover it or do something to it because fuel spits out in that area from exhaust. I didnt know if the fuel would weaken the LG area and make it soft or not. What do you guys think? Below is a picture of what im talking about

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Looks pretty certain that it was sealed with epoxy- doubt you could get film to stick to it.

Rv7garage

My Feedback: (10)

Maybe sand & paint those areas

RICKSTUBBZ

If it is not sealed with something it will take no time and the plane will be junk.
With that being said it does look to be sealed with epoxy or resin.
I put light fiberglass clothe on mine in that area, underneath monokote.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

You have a few options. First would be to paint it with a fuelproof paint, something we can no longer get here in Canada. Another choice would be to do as rv7garage suggests and sand smooth before trying to apply a covering. You do not want to be so aggressive you blow through the sealant to bare wood just enough to give a smooth surface covering can bond well to. If you do sand down to bare wood, even with covering applied there exhaust will migrate below, causing the covering to lift and contaminate the wood. It will eventually soften and fail.

Same idea for the gear retaining screws. Pull them out and ensure the holes are sealed with thin CA. ANY bare unprotected wood will allow exhaust to wick into the wood.

On that note, I would go over the edges to the sides of the gear pads. Balsarite or other supplemental adhesive will help keep the covering down. It may also be necessary to provide some form of seal between the wing and fuse saddle area and for the cover between the gear. Oil can find all sorts of ways to get inside.

Those exhaust stubs look to be pretty short. It may be ugly, but extensions may be necessary to get the exhaust out into the airstream. Otherwise it can blow around inside the cowl and make a mess.

big_poppa49

Cougar, besides adding length to the exhaust, do you think if I bought a new muffler that they would be longer? Do you think somebody cut those that short?

Also, how can you guys tell its been sealed by something? Please note that the "shiny" part on the lower right is where I have test ran this plane and have not wiped it up yet

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Not sure without information regarding make of muffler, but from the way they are cut on an angle that's a good bet. Every aftermarket Pitts style I've worked with were longer and cut straight across.

One thing I have been doing for years is either yanking a full size throttle servo, such as your S3004, fabbing an adapter plate from lite ply or building from scratch to fit a micro servo for that app. No need for the bulk and weight as throttle should be a relatively low stress function, (if you set the linkage and end points correctly).

big_poppa49

also can yall tell by that picture what kind of covering this plane has? Is it fabric?

KaP2011

My Feedback: (17)

It looks to me like Coverite's 21st Century Fabric. At least on part of it. The rest is probably solartex or something like it.

Did you get the decals yet?

redkav

You may also want to use some K2r on the exposed wood. This is actually a clothing/carpet cleaning spray but works real well on balsa/plywood in drawing out any fluids. Epoxy, glues, and monokote will stick to the surface much better and last!

big_poppa49

Yes I got them and put them one. Looks great! For the covering its all covered in the same covering except for the "door" I made between the landing gear for access to the battery, thats a piece of monokote.

I really like this plane although I have not flown it yet (waiting on stupid weather) over here in the Carolinas its either been windy, or raining or both. Cant catch a break!! I sure hope this plane flies good. I know somebody said to keep easy on the rudder for takeoffs, any other tips for a first time biplane, or this plane particular?

Also, I did manage to balance the plane. It balances just barely nose heavy, just barely. Think this is fine? Or should it be more than barely nose heavy? I am just putting my fingers on the top wings rear bolts

taildragger1589

three things:
first, as the picture shows, I added 3" sections of rubber hose (heater water lines from AutoZone) to the Tatone Pitts muffler. I coated the aluminum with High temp formagasket, slid on the hose and cinched with a wire tie. I was going to go with hose clamps later but never needed to. Several years of flying and it stayed tight. You should have no trouble doing the same.
BTW, I added standard copper elbows from the plumbing section at Home Depot the same way, but you won't need to to that.

Balance is perfect as you described.

If you trim the tailwheel for a *very very* slight drift to the right while taxing, with a gradual throttle advance, pointed straight into the wind, you should be able to take off straight ahead without much steering.

Rudder and elevator are crisp and fast on mine with about 2" of throw at the trailing edge (about 40 degrees).
(I like lots of throw for snap rolls and spins, not recommended until you can do inverted flight without having to think out your controls)
Ailerons are a little slow, but adequate.

good luck, both with your maiden flight and the weather, down here in the North Metro Atlanta area, I'm getting the same stinkin' weather.

Nick

big_poppa49

I looked up new mufflers and it looks like the tips are longer than mine. Not sure why the original builder would cut these off as I think the two pitts pipes hanging below looks awesome! But wow those pipes are around $50 bucks!! I do like your idea of "extensions" you made taildragger...

I might just fly it and see how much oil gets on stuff. If its going to be a mess then I will look further to fix the issue. If its not too bad then I wont bother with it

taildragger1589

Hate to tell ya, but no matter the length, you'll have a mess. The extensions will just move some of it from the firewall/landing gear area to the bottom wing.
(that's why I'm moving to petrol power... well, fuel costs too.)

It all adds up to a good time tho, no matter what kinda power you use.

Nick

big_poppa49

Right you are! I now have 4 nitro airplanes, the rest are electric. I hate the cleanup but I just cant resist the smell and sound of nitro.

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

A lot of the cleanup has to do with the lubricant. Synthetic is a much easier to deal with at the end of the day, but I want at least some castor for protection. Always more difficult to wipe off, especially in cold weather.

Call me old school, but I have engines 30 years old still running strong.

taildragger1589

As one old school to another, the above pic is (or was until a month ago) my newest engine. bought in 1990.
My oldest four stroke was the OS 60 FS bought in 1980. (haven't bought any two strokes since then, except for the ST2000. (financial necessity)

Always looked on synthetic with suspicion back then, (was raised on Cox superfuel in the little blue can and nothing smelled quite so good) but I guess it's much the norm now. (I was all electric from 2001 until now.) Just got back in with the Saito FG11 (.66) gas powered on my Balsa USA Taube. (originally with the OS 40 fs)
It's displayed in Post # 994, though it lacks the burnt castor smell, it has a great sound and lots of thrust.

Nick

Cougar429

My Feedback: (3)

Off topic a bit.

I'm going larger scale and that petty much screams 4-stroke. Several OS 90Surpass in the fleet. However, something to be said for a company that only makes 4-strokes, (Saito).

Have been divesting my 2-strokes over the last few years. There are still a few gems I refuse to part with. Keeping the last of quite a few 40FSR's and feel the same for Fox, (a pair each of 80's vintage 50BB's and newer Eagle IV 60's). Heard that company is under new ownership and was shocked to see their booth taken by another exhibitor at Toledo recently. Still remember my friend and I sitting down with Duke years ago to shoot the breeze.

taildragger1589

Yup!
Burned a lot of Duke's fuel too. (10% nitro) Good stuff!

RE bigger scale: Nothing's like an 80"+ bipe with a chugging 18/6 prop.