Sig 1/4 Cub Windows
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Sig 1/4 Cub Windows
This Sport Flyer is trying to make the progression to scale. I am to the point on my Sig Cub where I need to do the windows - side and windshield, and for some reason (dread maybe??) I've been putting it off.
What are others doing? I know someone else with one and he just installed the lexan as a sheet over the side windows but I personally don't think that looks particularly good. What other methods are being used?
Also regarding the windshield - I just know that its going to be a pain. A friend gave me his windshield from a Dynaflite Decathalon and I could modify it to fit but .... I do want it to look fairly close to scale. Any suggestions or helpful photos on this would be appreciated as well.
What are others doing? I know someone else with one and he just installed the lexan as a sheet over the side windows but I personally don't think that looks particularly good. What other methods are being used?
Also regarding the windshield - I just know that its going to be a pain. A friend gave me his windshield from a Dynaflite Decathalon and I could modify it to fit but .... I do want it to look fairly close to scale. Any suggestions or helpful photos on this would be appreciated as well.
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I do not have a camera handy, but I think I can describe how I attacked the side windows on my Sig 1/4 scale Cub.
Start by tracing the window panes from the inside. I did this with the protective coating still on the plastic. Cut the window out of the plastic sheet.
Next you will need 1/16 balsa sheet. The soft stuff will work well and in fact is preferred for the rear side windows.
Using a small piece of balsa, glue a small piece of window material to the balsa to create an offset. This will be used later to set the ledge set back.
Next, cut you ledges out of the same 1/16 balsa and fit them into the window ledges. When you are satisfied with the fit, glue the balsa ledges in place using the offset tool. This technique works great for all of the windows. Paint the balsa to match the cabin, set the pane on the ledge and glue in the individual window panes.
Start by tracing the window panes from the inside. I did this with the protective coating still on the plastic. Cut the window out of the plastic sheet.
Next you will need 1/16 balsa sheet. The soft stuff will work well and in fact is preferred for the rear side windows.
Using a small piece of balsa, glue a small piece of window material to the balsa to create an offset. This will be used later to set the ledge set back.
Next, cut you ledges out of the same 1/16 balsa and fit them into the window ledges. When you are satisfied with the fit, glue the balsa ledges in place using the offset tool. This technique works great for all of the windows. Paint the balsa to match the cabin, set the pane on the ledge and glue in the individual window panes.
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Sig 1/4 Cub Windows
RE windshield: Guys, use the template on the plans as a starting point to make a template from craft paper. Cut and fit this template 'till use have a good fit. Only then cut the supplied lexan sheet.
I used a combination of small screws and RC560 glue to secure it in place and the result was pretty good (see below).
The Cub Man has some pretty good ideas on his site too: http://www.geocities.com/cubmanky/main.html
I used a combination of small screws and RC560 glue to secure it in place and the result was pretty good (see below).
The Cub Man has some pretty good ideas on his site too: http://www.geocities.com/cubmanky/main.html
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This may stray from "strict Cub scale" a bit, but Fourmost Products makes a nice window edging in three sizes:
http://www.geocities.com/fourmost1/
http://www.geocities.com/fourmost1/
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Sig 1/4 Cub Windows
You know I've been reading Cknaack's post and I must be having a blonde moment 'cause I'm not sure if I'm understanding it. Lets see if I can get this right.
1. Trace each window from the inside.
2. Cut each individual window out to exact size
3. Frame window with 1/16 balsa. This is where I'm loosing it.
Should I use 1/16 square stock and glue it to the inside of the window opening to create a ledge for the window to sit on, with the window sitting FLUSH to the outer side of the airplane? Or should I be cutting the window oversized and recessing it into the fuselage side.
Thanks again,
Kelly
1. Trace each window from the inside.
2. Cut each individual window out to exact size
3. Frame window with 1/16 balsa. This is where I'm loosing it.
Should I use 1/16 square stock and glue it to the inside of the window opening to create a ledge for the window to sit on, with the window sitting FLUSH to the outer side of the airplane? Or should I be cutting the window oversized and recessing it into the fuselage side.
Thanks again,
Kelly
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Kelly,
Sorry for the confusion. This is where the camera would really come in handy.
You want to trace the window before you glue in the 1/16 sheeting. The 1/16 does not have to be square. I made mine a little wider than the thickness of the frame I was fitting and trimmed it back when I was done. This makes it harder to see the ledge when complete.
After fitting and gluing the sheeting in the window frame the window will now rest on the ledge that you made. The window will be flush with the outside of the fuse if you made the offset tool and used it accurately.
Let me know if you need pictures and I will try to get my hands on a digital camera and e-mail you or anyone else pictures.
If you think you are confused, think of how I felt trying to come up with something that looked semi scale without adding 40 hours to the job.
The window edging does look nice, but IMO it does not look scale.
As far as the windshield is concerned, I'm with you guys, this is not going to be fun. I am thinking about using some thin cardboard to get it right first. I have a feeling that I will be needing a good supply of it until I get it just right.
Sorry for the confusion. This is where the camera would really come in handy.
You want to trace the window before you glue in the 1/16 sheeting. The 1/16 does not have to be square. I made mine a little wider than the thickness of the frame I was fitting and trimmed it back when I was done. This makes it harder to see the ledge when complete.
After fitting and gluing the sheeting in the window frame the window will now rest on the ledge that you made. The window will be flush with the outside of the fuse if you made the offset tool and used it accurately.
Let me know if you need pictures and I will try to get my hands on a digital camera and e-mail you or anyone else pictures.
If you think you are confused, think of how I felt trying to come up with something that looked semi scale without adding 40 hours to the job.
The window edging does look nice, but IMO it does not look scale.
As far as the windshield is concerned, I'm with you guys, this is not going to be fun. I am thinking about using some thin cardboard to get it right first. I have a feeling that I will be needing a good supply of it until I get it just right.
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blonde moment has passed
I now see the light!!! I was initially thinking you glued 1/16th stock to edge of the lexan window, and then glueing into the window openning. I now understand that I should glue the 1/16 stock inside the window openning to make a ledge for the previously cut out window to rest against, and then glue the lexan window to the 1/16th stock!!!
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There is a router tool that fits into your dremel that works great just for this kind of application and I got mine from Bruce Tharpe. You rout out what ever depth you want and then the window will fit right in. I'll get the name of it tomorrow and who makes it, thought fourmost made it but didn't see it on their web site, great if you do a lot of scale building.
Ok, went down to the shop and looked at the tool and here's all the info I have on it and it can be used for hatches or anything else that is recessed.
Rout-A-Bit
JDM Products
543 Bedford St
Concord MA 01742
Fax-508-369-9212
That's all that was on the card it came on, sorry no web site. Hope this helps and it's a great tool!
Ok, went down to the shop and looked at the tool and here's all the info I have on it and it can be used for hatches or anything else that is recessed.
Rout-A-Bit
JDM Products
543 Bedford St
Concord MA 01742
Fax-508-369-9212
That's all that was on the card it came on, sorry no web site. Hope this helps and it's a great tool!
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Sig 1/4 Cub Windows
http://www.awhobbies.com/
Take a look at this one. It's called the "Rout-A-Kit". The company is called A & W Hobbies. They say, "Inlaid windows in seconds". Use it with your Dremel.
I bought one of these last year and have yet to use it but it sounds like what you've described. Looks like it should do a really neat job.
Take a look at this one. It's called the "Rout-A-Kit". The company is called A & W Hobbies. They say, "Inlaid windows in seconds". Use it with your Dremel.
I bought one of these last year and have yet to use it but it sounds like what you've described. Looks like it should do a really neat job.
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Yup that be it, must have been bought by these people as they changed the name a bit. It works great and is very quick but does take a little practice to get a good cut.
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LuvsBipes, Could you post some more pictures of your cub, thats the color scheme I intend to use on my Cub.
Also, any information on covering, fabric, paint ect., would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Roger
Also, any information on covering, fabric, paint ect., would be most appreciated.
Thanks.
Roger
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Nice job!!! Definitely looks nicer then the sheet glued over the frame. I definitely will be following your lead! Thank-you!
Kelly
btw, Art, my wife is big into Pooh stuff, so when I saw this plane I knew I had to model it! The guy who owns the full scale Cub actually owns a store called "Pooh Corner".
Kelly
btw, Art, my wife is big into Pooh stuff, so when I saw this plane I knew I had to model it! The guy who owns the full scale Cub actually owns a store called "Pooh Corner".